i have ordered many things from newegg and not one has been defected, once my friend got a defective ram, but he said the RMA process was a piece of cake and he got his new ram in 2 days. They are very reliable
I have ordered from newegg for 10 years, and have built over a dozen pc's using them as a supplier. I have never had a defective part, but did recently recieve a damaged case. I called them, and in less than 10 minutes I was off the phone...with a new case on the way via next day air. They sent me a return shipping label, and when the guy brought my new case I gave him the damaged one. Easily the most hassel free customer service I have ever had. Realistically they should be no better or worse than any retailer selling new parts
I've ordered a lot of equipment from Newegg. The odds of getting a DOA part from Newegg are neither better nor worse than from any other vendor. I don't know who gave you the 2% figure but, I would say it depends on the part.
What I can tell you for sure is that Newegg is excellent at taking care of their customers when you receive a DOA. You really have nothing to worry about.
Here is my own experience:
For hard drives, it depends on the brand. On Samsung (mostly 1TB HD103SJ), of which I have ordered about 20 last year, I never got a bad one . I ordered 1 320GB WD for a notebook and it was defective (not DOA but would not work properly). I also had 2 desktop WD fail last year (both a bit over a year old and had had little use.) I haven't had much luck with WD, they tend to cost more than other brands and the results I have gotten have been "less than stellar". I hope other WD users have had a better experience but now, I tend to stay away from that brand. Also, don't use a "green" (eco-conscious) drive as your boot drive.
I've also bought a few Hitachi-s (1TB, about 4 or 6 of them, don't recall exactly). If I recall correctly, I had to exchange one of them because it didn't work right (it wasn't DOA) but overall, I am pleased with Hitachi.
I personally would not buy a Seagate drive. I have seen too many of them fail in the first year. Which is a lot worse than a DOA.
I stick with Samsungs whenever I can, Hitachi is my second choice and after that I simply wait for a Samsung or Hitachi to be available. If I am in a real pinch that I need a hard drive right now, I might reluctantly get a WD.
In my current system, I have 2 1TB Samsung, 1 2TB Samsung, 3 1TB Hitachi and 1 750GB WD. (some of these are in RAID 1 and some are not.)
Memory: I've had great luck with GSkill. So far every stick I've gotten has worked flawlessly. I also got 4 Patriot sticks (4 x 2GB) and one of the sticks was defective (even though memtest said it worked fine, I would get errors when decompressing rar archives due to faulty memory - that was hard to trace). A bad stick can happen to any company. I like GSkill but would not have any reservation about purchasing a Patriot kit again, particularly considering that their RMA process was reasonable (you still have to pay for shipping the memory back to them - that's life.)
CPUs: I've never had a bad CPU, AMD or Intel. I think the odds of getting a bad one are pretty darn low.
Motherboards: That's a really tough one. A lot of motherboards are "deficient" by design (like the Gigabyte X48-DS5 which is what I am using right now - lots of "undesirable" quirks.) On the other hand, I've never had a truly defective motherboard (where something clearly didn't work) but, most motherboards I've used required a BIOS update or a "more than casual" amount of BIOS tweaking to get them to work well.
My recommendation in this case is, look at the reviews on Newegg and select from motherboards that have an 80+% 4 and 5 star (combined.) That generally tells you that the design is fairly simple and straightforward. Anything below 70% could require some real effort on your part to make it work right.
I've used Asus and Gigabyte mostly but, strangely enough, the best motherboard I've had (for socket 775 - a bit old by now) was a Biostar but, it did take some effort to get it to work right (BIOS update, BIOS tweaking, etc but once done, it is the only _perfectly_ working motherboard I've had in a long time.) Everything else had one or more minor "quirks" of some kind or another.
Video cards: I am not a gamer and don't build gaming systems. I build mostly workstations and machines used for virtualization. The video cards I use are basic ($50.00 or less) and I've never had any problems with any of them. I cannot give an opinion on high/higher end video cards.
As far as tips go:
1. Get a good (or at least decent) power supply. PC Power and Cooling will cost a little more but, they are excellent power supplies. Look as well at the Corsairs that use _single rail_. OCZ makes decent power supplies but, I've had a few problems with some of them which required RMA. Now I stick to PC P&C (ironically owned by OCZ) and single rail Corsairs (never had a problem with any of them.)
2. Build your basic machine _outside_ of the case. Use only the absolute minimum to get a working machine, that is the minimum number of memory sticks, if your motherboard has built in graphics (as a Z68 2500/2600 usually would), use that. Boot it, if it works, you can add one storage device (hard drive or SSD) and boot again, add another device, test/boot again, rinse and repeat. You should only put the motherboard in the case once you _know_ everything is working fine. It is much easier to add/remove/shuffle things outside of the case than after everything is in a cramped case (no matter how big, they all are cramped.)
3. You mentioned it is your first build so, Read The Fine Manuals. I've been building micros and minis for 34 years and I still read every manual every time, no exceptions. I believe that is one of the reasons every machine I build ends up working the way it should.
4. I alluded to this already but, look at the newegg reviews on every piece of equipment you intend to buy. Stick with 80%+ combined 4 and 5 stars.
5. Build slowly. There is no rush. Take your time, do it right. The lasting effects of a good build are well worth the extra hour or so you might put in the build.
6. (optional) Personally, I pound my machines HARD for a few days (anywhere from 3 to 5 days) particularly the hard drives. I completely fill the drives (using hundreds of thousands of files until Windows reports 0 bytes available - you may need a separate machine to do this if you intend to use the drive you're testing as a boot drive) then I run anywhere from 40 to 60 copies of Windows search (when using XP) or 40 to 60 copies of Filelocator lite (free) when using Windows 7 to search for text in the files. I repeat that several times using strings that will be found and strings that will not be found. If your drive(s) survive 3 days of that treatment, they are probably good for the long run. If they fail and 30 days have not elapsed, you can get a replacement from Newegg and repeat ;-)
Heres why you should never worry about DOA items, chargebacks with credit cards.
it's honestly that simple, if you receive a DOA item and the merchant is not willing to help/fix/refund for the item, you have every right to charge back the purchase on your credit card. There is no way the merchant can get around dealing with your bank/cc provider.
I'm building my first build and I'll be spending around 1.4K on it and I would just like some reinsurance. Newegg says there's like a 2% chance of receiving DOAs', is this accurate?
Vulnuz, I also have never had any bad parts from the egg. I have no idea where the 2% failure rate came from. Cheap power supplies have pretty high failure rates; CPU's, rarely.
and if I do receive a defective part, how would I know which part is defective?
I only know that if the motherboard is dead then it won't boot at all. Any tips for the other pieces, RAM, Video Card, CPU, Harddrive? Thank you.
What you mean by "boot" is actually a two part process. First, the system tries to do a POwerup Self Test (POST). If that passes, it then tries to load the operating system or in the case of a new build, tries to load enough of an OS to install the complete OS.
If anything goes wrong, you (or someone else) needs to start troubleshooting the system to try to figure out what is wrong.
Two things to keep in mind:
The vast majority of new builds go together faultlessly. It's not like the not so good old days 35 years or so ago where "build" meant taking soldering iron in hand. Everyone had a first build.