Slow boot times, Windows freezes and cannot repair

Hello all,

I recently build a computer from parts purchased online. Since getting it build, I have had nothing but problem after problem. My latest issues seem to be in regards to booting. From the time I push the physical power button on my case, it takes roughly 10 seconds for my monitor to receive a signal, and another 10 seconds or so before the "ASUS" post screen flashes. This results in ~20 seconds worth of delay from when I actually power on my computer to when I start loading windows. This seems excessive, but wouldn't be a major cause for concern except I believe it may be related to another issue I am having. Occasionally (10-20% of the time) when I try to start up my computer, it will hang on the Windows 7 logo (where the four colors swirl and merge) and I have to manually hold the power button down to turn the computer off. When I restart, occasionally it will cut itself off after a few seconds (the fans, case lights etc all lose power) and then restart. When it does this, it takes me to a screen giving the option of starting Windows or loading System Repair. When I try to load the repair, it gets to "Attempting Repairs" and stays for a few minutes before telling me that no repairs could be performed. Upon restarting the computer yet again, things seem to work properly, but this is rather unacceptable behavior from a new system in my opinion.

I have also noticed that the Windows start up logo has something of a stuttering problem. Every time I boot, whether its after a repair episode or normally, the logo freezes for a second or two as the 4 dots are coming together, then proceeds, and freezes again for a second or two. This happens 3-4 times while the logo is "forming". Again, I am not sure if this is a minor issue or a symptom of the larger problem, but just want to be thorough and give all the details I can to help in a diagnosis. My thoughts are that the long boot to post times are related to either my MoBo, SSD or PSU. The issues with Windows obviously seems to be a Windows problem, but may have something to do with my drive itself. As mentioned the OS is on my SSD, but I failed to unplug my mechanical hard drive during installation and Windows put the recovery tools on it rather than my SSD (this may have something to do with Windows not being able to repair).

I also fear my PSU may be to blame, as I encountered an incident with it during installation. As I was moving cables around (PSU is mostly modular) some of the release latches seemed to get stuck. This prompted me to use more force, and when the cables came lose, so did the plastic casing/housing (not sure what the exact term is, but if you look at the Corsair 1050w PSU, you can see the black and blue colored 6/8 pin ports on the PSU itself that connect to the cables). I did not notice this until I had several of the cables laying out on the table, and fear this may have damaged or broken my PSU and is causing some of the problems I am getting. On a rare occasion or two, I get an error during start up saying that no keyboard was detected, when it is plugged in, which also seems to point to perhaps a bad PSU. As this has been rather long, I will recap the main questions and concerns I have below.

1. 20+ seconds delay from when I power on the computer to the point the ASUS bios/post screen appears.
2. Windows occasionally hangs at the start up "logo" screen and brings me to the repair tool when I restart, at which point it fails to repair anything.
3. The Windows logo is very choppy as it forms during start up, perhaps indicative of a problem.
4. I dislodged the plastic 6/8 pin connector ports on my modular PSU by pulling to hard on the cables. I do not know if this damaged the PSU or how to check if it did. Windows Freezing during start up, and the occasional "no keyboard detected" seem to suggest there may be an issue with it.

Thank you all very much for any help!
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  1. You need to provide a full parts list.

    Those ports are soldered to a board. If they have come loose then the solder must be broken.

    As to the slow and erratic boot, I don't know. This could be a sign of many things. RAM issues for instance. Overheating. A poor data connection. A failing SSD.

    In all this you haven't once mentioned your BIOS. Have you looked at the settings? Have you checked temps?
  2. Very sorry to have left all of that off. Here are my specs:
    ASUS Z68 Deluxe Motherboard
    GTX 580
    16GB 1600 DDR3 RAM (4x4GB)
    Corsair 1050w PSU

    The ports that have come loose are not the ones soldered to the Motherboard, but rather the pin connector ports that are on the PSU itself. Here is a link to an image of what I am talking about.

    If you click one of the pictures to bring up the full list of available pictures, the fourth (first one on the second row) has a view from the front with the blue/black ports that were dislodged. They are basically the ports that connect directly into the PSU for any additional cables you need to attach.

    My temperatures on everything that I monitor are fine (mostly just CPU/GPU temps). They stay around 30 idle for my CPU, and 45 idle for my GPU, going up to safe ranges under load.

    How would I go about checking if a RAM issue is causing this, or a poor data connection or failing SSD?

    My BIOS is the latest version of the UFI BIOS for my Z68 Deluxe. I have gone through all of the settings and have yet to find something that alleviates the problem.

    Again, sorry for the lack of information in my original post. Thank you for your comment!

    --- Just ran the Windows Memory Diagnostic tool and it reported no errors. Not sure how thorough it is, but thought I should share the result.
  3. Yes, and THOSE ports are soldered to a board inside the PSU.

    Your first test should be to remove 2 of the 4 sticks of RAM. Populating all 4 DIMMs is often problematic. I always discourage it. If that resolves anything we can then work on it.

    What ports are your drives connected to? You have the Intel ports and then you have Marvel ports I think.

    Are both drives identified correctly in the BIOS? Are the controllers set to AHCI Mode?
  4. My mistake, I thought you meant the ports on the motherboard.

    I removed 2 of the RAM sticks (verified the slots with my MoBo manual) and the boot times remained exactly the same.

    My drives are connected to the two white Intel 6Gb/s ports (both my SSD and mechanical drive).

    The drives are correctly seen in BIOS and AHCI is enabled.

    Thanks again for the response!
  5. It is sounding like there is some sort of detection issue at start up.

    You still haven't mentioned the model and brand of the SSD, but I would take it out of there and see if that smooths out the POST time issue. If so, I would then install to the HDD and see if the rest of it cleared up.

    I would keep the extra RAM out of the system for now. It's really a common issue and it would be best for troubleshooting purposes to keep it simple.

    Check with the manufacturers of your drives for testing utilities also.

    ATTO is a good general drive benchmarking tool.
    Also HD Tune
  6. My SSD is a 120GB Mushkin Enhanced Chronos Deluxe. My mechanical hard drive is a WD Caviar Black 1.5TB.

    I disconnected the SSD at the SATA port and the boot times remained the same.

    I do not know of any Mushkin made tools to test SSDs, but am familiar with ATTO, AS-SSD, CrystalDisk etc.

    Here are the ATTO results, performed just after a restart.

    The results seem more or less average. If the SSD and memory can be ruled out, is the main suspect now the PSU?
    Thanks for the responses!
  7. I would EXPECT things like random reboots and shutdowns with bad electrical connections, but I can't say for sure. Perhaps intermittent power to those drives would cause these issues.

    What about the HDD? Did you try removing that too?
  8. I did, and it gives the same result as having both connected. Is there anything else I could do to help narrow down the cause?
  9. Try disabling the marvel controller, if it's not in use. I've seen this clear up the slow POST issue in the past.

    So these modular PSU ports - are they like a little loose or real loose? All of them or just some?
  10. I have had the Marvell controller disable since assembling the machine. I didn't like the extra time it added to start up.
    The ports are not loose from what I can feel, and it is only a couple of them were removed. If I could remember which ones they were, I would simply avoid using those ports, unless it damaged my PSU as a whole, but unfortunately I can't and none of them are noticeably looser than the others since I pushed them back in when the incident happened.
  11. While the POST is happening, what are the troubleshooting LEDs on the board doing?

    Is there one that is taking a long time to clear?
  12. The LED cycles through several codes, but hangs (for 3-5 seconds) on the following

    (according to the manual)
    60 - DXE Core is started
    62 - Installation of the PCH Runtime Services

    After these, it goes to code "AA" ("Reserved for ASL") and stays at AA for the duration of my session from what I can tell.
  13. I think those are fairly standard pause points and won't tell us much. Let me see if we can get some other eyes into the thread
  14. I think that this could well be a memory related problem, you should download and run memtest86 4.0a for at least three passes to check your memory.
  15. That's a load of info to sift though...

    First, and you know why, re-install your OS. Verify that you indeed have v3.3.2 firmware installed on your SSD. I would minimally reformat ALL drives and don't forget to disconnect all other drives before installing the OS (this time). Also, make sure you have the latest BIOS installed (3203); use ASUS EZ Flash 2 -

    If you're getting OC Failed then it could be RAM, run Memtest for 4-passes.

    Optional but IMO use Parted Magic and Secure Erase (write 0's) System Tools/Erase Disk your SSD ; top part of this blog pertains -

    Random shutdowns can be caused by a lot of things including a corrupted SSD, bad OC, RAM, MOBO. More often then not (where) you're freezing is generally a bad OC. The booting delay is more than likely caused by your SSD and it's firmware. I too mentioned bad OC, if you have bios invasive apps like AI Suite or any other similar application(s) don't use them and IMO never install them on your PC.

    You did a lot of errors and tracing down the correct one is a guessing game. Clearly installing an OS while other drives are connected is a no-no. Once you re-install the OS then don't install anything but all of the (latest) drivers from ASUS's website (the DVD shipped with the MOBO is a nice coaster).

    1. Update SSD Firmware
    2. Update MOBO's BIOS
    a. Clear CMOS, but do it right unplug the PSU for 5~10 minute 1st, then press the Clr CMOS button (10 seconds), plug in power, boot to BIOS. Clear CMOS -
    b. Press (F5) and set AI Overclock Tuner -> XMP then Save & Exit = Yes
    3. Boot with Memtest run 4-passes
    4. Optional Secure Erase SSD, but delete any partitions and format no matter both the HDD and SSD
    5. Re-install the OS (only SSD connected)
    6. Once OS is completed install the Chipset, SATA and other drivers (latest versions)
    7. Optional goto Intel's website for the very latest drivers (Run Intel Driver Update Utility) -
    8. Run 'Fix It' to verify two critical registries are correct -
    9. Try booting, shutdown, sleep sequences several times
    10. Do NOT install any Utilities or Applications for at least a day or two; run a 24+ burn-in use AIDA64 Extreme Edition with all options stressed -

    NOW you can enjoy.

    You can improve bootup times by changing the boot priorities or disabling splash screens if needed, but mine boots in <12 seconds so I leave it alone. Don't leave items in the DVD, the BIOS often (looks) if there's anything bootable and in turn delays normal startup. I do not recommend the vast majority of SSD 'tweaks' to Page files (other than 2GB if fine), Disabling hibernation, etc I like my hybrid sleep and find there's more Pros to leave it alone; I do recommend running WEI once so it knows to turn-off defraging your SSD.

    Let me know.
  16. IMHO, MemTest86+ should always be run when people are sleeping. I have seen things go all to hell on the 8th pass in some people's computers so I generally like to suggest people do the whole 10 passes and the easiest way to do that is just while people don't need the computer for anything anyway.

    Secondly, I didn't see it written above and if I missed it please forgive me, but it looked to me like only two RAM configurations were tried. One with all 4 sticks in and one with 2 sticks in. Were the other 2 sticks tried in the other 2 ports at some point? For completeness sake, it would not be a bad idea to switch these out if it wasn't already done.

    I am not thrilled at all about the lack of a motherboard graphics port connected to the processor. It would be nice if the GTX 580 could be ruled out as a problem child, but without a graphics port on the motherboard a second card would have to be sourced from somewhere.

    For that matter, it would be nice if you could access a second computer to use to switch out parts from. My gut feeling right away was motherboard, but things like PSU, RAM, Video card, and so on are all easy switch outs if you have another computer sitting around with similar specs. If it is a hardware problem you have, which very much seems to be the case, sometimes the only way to narrow down the cause is just to start replacing components.

    Also, the part doesn't have to belong to the core for these symptoms. I have a CD drive upstairs in a box and if any of you tried it in your computer then your computer would take 15 minutes to boot into Windows. Even such a lowly device with a hardware fault can drag down the whole rest of the computer very easily.

    I did see someone above suggested reinstalling Windows with only one disk drive attached (you can try different drives with this too for testing purposes), and this is a good idea which I will second. Once you get the new OS installed, you can disconnect unnecessary things like CD drives to try and rule them out as problem sources.

    One way to proceed with the OS setup was explained above, but I don't find it to be the most stable or useful for testing purposes. If it is reinstalled and the problem at least temporarily goes away, I would suggest the first thing after hitting the desktop would be to go to Microsoft's website and download Microsoft Security Essentials and install that. Secondly just run windows update over and over again, restarting between, until all of the Windows patches are done. Then do nothing else and see if symptoms persist.

    New updated drivers can cause instability and it is good to be able to rule them out as a problem source. If you update drivers immediately you lose the ability to rule them out this way.

    Anyway, I wouldn't worry too much about the Windows/software stuff at this point unless you have a lot of free time on your hands. It feels more to me like a hardware problem at this point and I would prioritize trying to get access to hardware you can switch out as the number one task. The RAM can be switched out with the removed sticks in the alternate slots NP, but beyond that you really just need to find somebody you can borrow things from.

    - Edit - Typo
  17. You know, I knew you guys were going to suggest memtest :) I'm a bit skeptical but agree it needs to be done.

    Here is the proper link:

    Burn to disk, run overnight.
  18. What can I say? I am all about trust.

    I have to build a trust relationship between me and the PC which usually all starts with the physical. Are all the cables plugged in right?

    Then move to the PSU. Is it from Seasonic? Did another one get tried?

    Then move to the RAM, is it from a brand with low failure rates like Crucial or Kingston? Does it get through MemTest86+ ok?

    It is just how I naturally approach this stuff.

    Its like in construction, if your foundation isn't solid, if there is a flaw in it, you could be looking at a computer version of the Leaning Tower of Pisa. If you were in one of the rooms up at the top there you might find yourself wondering why everything that looks fine is somehow not fine. The problem would obviously be easier to figure out if you came out and started looking at the basic stuff.
  19. Wow, thank you all for the responses. This will will take some time to do as I will be out of town tomorrow, but I will get all of these steps done and post with the results.
    Thanks again!
  20. Just took some time to re-read all of the posts. I respect all of your opinions much more than my own, as I am quite uneducated in this field by comparison. My concern comes from whether I can or should do any hardware tests first before moving on to the software side like reinstalling the OS etc. I am not trying to take shortcuts, and will do whatever you all suggest, but do not want to go through backing everything up and performing the reinstall, if I can do the hardware tests prior to all of that to rule out any hardware issues and save me the grief of reinstalling everything only to get the same results I am now.

    @Jaquith - Is there anything I could do to completely rule out hardware problems before I take the step of formatting my drive and re doing my OS? Do these hardware checks need to be performed on a fresh install or is there any reason at all that I would need to re install windows before running them?

    @Raidinn - Unfortunately I do not have access to any spare parts. I can, however, rule out the GPU being bad, or at least drop the probability that it is to very slim. I initially had 2 GTX 570s in the system, but was getting unsatisfactory results with SLI scaling in game, so I returned them for a 580. I had the exact same issues regarding boot times and the Windows logo with the 570s. While there is always the chance that I simply got 3 defective cards, I would say that it is very unlikely, so we can probably rule out the GPU as the issue and start looking at either a bad OS install, the PSU, MoBo, RAM or Proc/Proc OC.

    Again, thank you all so very much for your input. I very much appreciate you helping me work through this. Please keep the suggestions coming, even posters that have not posted yet!
  21. You should run a memory test program such as memtest86 4.0a for at least three passes and preferably overnight. I always run a memory test program on a new build or on a system where the memory or motherboard has been changed.
    Every computer I get for repair I also run the memory test program and it is surprising the number that fails. Sorting out any memory problems makes a happier customer.
  22. I have heard of RAM failing Memtest86 when it passes on MemTest86+. If you fail on one you might want to try the other to double check.

    I usually stick with + because I think it has fewer bugs, but that is just me. That being said, I have seen bugs with the + version too.

    It is very hard to test your hardware if you don't have access to any other compatible hardware. The easiest way to test to see whether a certain hardware device is problematic is just to borrow something from a working computer for a few minutes and shove it in yours. If it starts working, whatever you took out was probably the thing that was bad.

    With no hardware to switch out, you may want to focus on what you can do like the software stuff, as painful as it is.

    The MemTest86+ program (my favorite version) will test RAM well, but most other hardware is difficult to test.

    One thing you can do is to disconnect any device that you don't absolutely have to have connected for it to be operational. If you have a CD drive, that can be disconnected. If you have multiple hard drives, all but one can go. You can drop back to 1 RAM stick.

    Those things probably aren't your problems, but they are at least easy to test.

    If you are OCd, I would suggest taking the battery out for 30 min to clear the BIOS and let the computer rebuild its configuration from scratch. That would get rid of any OCs and any other BIOS tweaks you may have made if there are any. Such things can increase instability and mask problems you are having. It is best to troubleshoot with default configurations when you can.
  23. Ph0enix33 said:
    Just took some time to re-read all of the posts. I respect all of your opinions much more than my own, as I am quite uneducated in this field by comparison. My concern comes from whether I can or should do any hardware tests first before moving on to the software side like reinstalling the OS etc. I am not trying to take shortcuts, and will do whatever you all suggest, but do not want to go through backing everything up and performing the reinstall, if I can do the hardware tests prior to all of that to rule out any hardware issues and save me the grief of reinstalling everything only to get the same results I am now.

    @Jaquith - Is there anything I could do to completely rule out hardware problems before I take the step of formatting my drive and re doing my OS? Do these hardware checks need to be performed on a fresh install or is there any reason at all that I would need to re install windows before running them?

    The way you installed is just one more variable to contend with to sort out your problems. My attitude towards repairing Windows vs starting from scratch is all about 'time.' Screwing around with a 'touchy' OS IMO makes little sense; in most cases I have my OS and Apps on an SSD // Data on a RAID HDD therefore it's little more than little time to re-install/format (Secure Erase) and SSD. Further, folks get 'antsy' and install all of the Apps and Data way too soon without thoroughly testing their components first.

    Testing what I really recommend (testing / burn-in) -

    I 'get' that folks want their new toy yesterday, but I also 'get' what a PITA it is to have an RMA and worst and RMA after the 'Cross Ship' periods expire or are not possible.
  24. Unfortunately, my 30 day period has expired, as I was working through other issues throughout it, and obviously still am. Hopefully this will be a software/settings issue rather than a physical hardware problem that needs to be returned.

    I cleared my CMOS and ran Memtest, with all 4 sticks installed, overnight. It is still running, but has completed 6 passes without error. Since it seems very unlikely it will fail at this point, I suppose it is time to start looking elsewhere as to what is causing this issue. Once I finish with Memtest, I will run AIDA64, before having to resort to formatting my drive and reinstalling windows.
  25. Often if Memtest works but anything in Windows fails then ... often it's Windows.
  26. Stopped Memtest after 9 Passes with no errors. I am now running AIDA64, but am a bit unfamiliar with it. The default settings were running stress tests on - CPU, FPU, Cache and System Memory. There were not check marks next to "Stress Local Disks" or "Stress GPU", but I put marks next to both so it would test EVERYTHING. Is this OK, or should I stop the test and un check the GPU/Local Disks? If I do encounter a crash of some sort, how will I know which component failed? Is there a report created at the end of the test that says how each part performed, or where any issues may lie?
    Thank you as always!
  27. Well, if it's not causing issues then it's safe to look elsewhere. I really don't see how Win 7 would cause ALL your issues, but it's a good plan at this point to reformat.
  28. Running the new version of AIDA64, check ALL the option under the stress test; the new version also stresses the GPU. The reasons I like AIDA is that you can stress several sub-components and it checks all of the CPU's instruction sets whereas Prime95 doesn't not stress or test many aspects of the system.

    Let me at someone's registry for a minute or two and you'll think your whole system needs to be replaced.

    As I mentioned, Uninstall ANY BIOS invasive Utilities. It's like me providing a system that is OC'ed and you decide to allow an OC Utility to 'tweak' some more; worst those apps don't need to me in your face to be running in the background.

    The logic is to figure out where the problem is, and sure checking or unchecking stressed items is a good idea.
  29. Quite honestly, it seems to me like if it takes a super long time to get to the BIOS screen after turning on the power button then it sounds a lot like hardware to me.

    Apparently the RAM was tested getting many passes with no errors and different video cards were tried and neither one of those revealed the cause.

    I would still like to see the RAM slots changed, even though there were no errors per se in Memtest86+. Not like this should take more than about 10 min to pull off.

    If you have plenty of time and no money then by all means disconnect the hard drives except the SSD and reinstall windows on the SSD like I mentioned earlier. I wouldn't hope for too much, though.

    Going back to the original problem, though, I don't think any kind of Windows problem can make it take 20 seconds to get to the BIOS screen.

    My #1 suggestion is to find somehow to get access to other hardware, whatever that takes to pull off.

    Worst comes to worst you can make an account on and call it the "Fix each other's computers" meetup and write in there that everybody should bring their computers and you can switch parts out with each other until everybody knows what is wrong with everybody else's computer.

    People with very little money sometimes need to get creative with this sort of thing.

    You could always post an ad on craigslist that you will give somebody $20 if they bring their computer to your house and let you switch their parts into your computer to see what is wrong with it. It would be a whole lot less than letting most computer repair places get their hands on it. Just make sure they have the same slot as you on their motherboards.
  30. Just finished over 24 hrs on AIDA64 with no issues. Seems like my computer is stable. I do agree that a reinstallation of Windows shouldn't do anything for my boot times, but I suppose it might fix the glitchy logo problem on startup. Since it will likely be difficult for me to get my hands on extra parts to swap out in the near future, I guess my next question is whether these symptoms are generally indicative of hardware that will not perform properly, or simply a settings problem. To put it simply, does this generally mean I have a hardware issue that will lower my performance, or is it likely just something causing a little bit of extra time to boot. If whatever is causing this is merely adding more time to the boot process, while it is frustrating, I could deal with it much more than if this will be causing my system to under perform. I suppose I could try to get some benchmarks run and post the results here to see if everything is performing up to snuff. Thanks as always for the posts!
  31. The (4) factors that influence SSD (drive) performance are: 1. SATA Ports (on LGA 1155/2011) only use the Intel SATA3 ports for the boot drives. Marvell e.g. 912X are a shared PCIe x1 lane (i.e. <380MB/s typically); 2. SSD (drive) firmware so use the latest; 3. Drivers, if using Marvell then be extra cautious (wrong driver/firmware can brick your MOBO) and IMO only use the drivers listed for your MOBO @ their website <or> Intel then use either the 'Intel Driver Update Utility' or search - ; 4. BIOS set the SATA -> AHCI or RAID then make sure both Start = 0 values are correct or use 'Fix It' -

    Sometimes oddball screen flashing or even 'lines' as such might not mean a thing during the hand-off from BIOS to Windows startup <or> it 'can' mean a corrupted BIOS (Clear CMOS to fix *caution with RAID because it too gets erased) or GPU including everything from a power issue - failing GPU - or bad driver.
  32. For the SSD
    1. I am using the Intel SATA 6GB/s ports on my motherboard for my SSD and HDD.
    2. My firmware is up to date.
    3. Drivers are up to date.
    4. AHCI is enabled in my BIOS, have run Fix It.

    It seems that clearing the CMOS may have dropped the times down a bit, am not at roughly 12 seconds from the time I press the power button to when the ASUS screen flashes, then another 5-10 seconds after that I am in Windows. The logo forming at the start screen is still not smooth, but that may just require a reinstallation of Windows to take care of. I ran a few benchmarks of my system to see if I can completely rule out any hardware giving poor results.;jsessionid=1ekj77wsk7bay1aai5g7qqdoud

    I have run Battlefield 3 but don't really have any way to get my actual average FPS. It seems as though it is around 40-45, dropping to the high 30s and spiking to 60 or so. I use the PerfOverlay and RenderFPS console commands, but am not sure if there is a command to show just the average FPS in game.
  33. I assume your EVGA is a reference card running stock speed with a 772MHz Core. You can install MSI Afterburner - and increase the clocks to increase your scores. About half the folks out there before benching OC or purchase pre-OC'ed GPUs. It takes a matter of seconds, and I recommend that you 'copy' others Core/Shader/Memory and re-bench.

    Clearly, you are not using the latest drivers, the latest nVidia driver is and you have Quite often, as I said, drivers make a significant impact in both performance and stability. Only use WHQL drivers and not beta anything -

    MOBO -
  34. My card is stock speed. I think those results are about where I should be, but I could be wrong.

    My drivers are indeed out dated because I ran into major stability issues while running Battlefield 3 with the overlay turned on. As you can see in this pic, the green GPU graph was having major trouble, and going to 285.62 driver corrected the problem.
  35. I was reading through the nVidia release notes, nothing references BF3 issues. I assume you installed the BF3 patch.

    My blinders are on to you PC running, not troubleshooting a particular game; TH has a game section that can help you further.

    So besides a BF3 issue, is everything else, HW wise, okay now?

    Is a link to the issue I am talking about. I did not start that thread, but it turned out to be the same problem I was having.

    Everything, HW wise is technically "OK" but did not really change since starting this thread, it's merely performing as it always has. Still having the slowish post times, still have the logo stuttering issue on startup (though I have no idea if that is HW or SW related), but if my system is performing properly in games/tests etc, then that is the most important part. I am not sure how my benchmark scores should look, but from what I can tell those are roughly the marks my hardware should be getting.

    I just got myself in line for a GTX 680 (via the EVGA step up program) so when it arrives, I will probably reformat and put Windows on again, since I will have to re do my video drivers anyway, and see if that fixes the startup logo problem. As far as the boot times go, I guess that will just have to wait until I can find parts to swap out and see what is causing it, since we can't seem to narrow anything down from the tests.
  37. In your original post and header there was a 'big' problem of freezing, so I assume that has been corrected.

    IF you have another PC with ANY PCIe based GPU then I would try it to rule-out a 'bad GPU'.

    Yeah, EVGA is great! There was a nice review that Chris posted today -,3161.html
  38. Well, the problem with freezing/not recognizing my keyboard did not happen every boot, but rather generally whenever my computer blue screened, presumably from my OC. I have not had this happen again yet, but need to re overclock and run the stress tests again to see if I can push it to bluescreen again, or if it will be stable. At the moment my processor is still stock. I had pushed my 2700k to 4.8GHz, which isn't a HUGE OC, but I fear 4.7 may be all my chip is capable of. 4.8 is pretty stable, but I do get the occasional BSOD, often prompting the boot up freezes/keyboard issues mentioned.

    As for the GPU, I doubt it is the issue since I had these issues with my 570's, but I suppose we will know for sure in a week or two when I get my 680!
  39. what vCore and what LLC level for your 4.8GHz? How about VCCIO voltage?

    Artifacts as such as I stated during post/boot don't really concern me too much as long as they stay there and I don't get 'freezes', BSOD, lockups, etc.
  40. jaquith said:

    Artifacts as such as I stated during post/boot don't really concern me too much as long as they stay there and I don't get 'freezes', BSOD, lockups, etc.

    I've always ignored those as well.
  41. For my 4.8 OC, my vcore voltage was set to "offset" mode of .03 I believe, giving me a total voltage of 1.36-1.38 depending on load in CPUZ. All other voltage settings remained at stock.
  42. The only reason I was curious is if you exceeded a 'CPU degrading' vCore, but you didn't :)

    Getting back, just for a minute, to GTX 680's -- no doubt their great GPUs. If you are running triple monitors then IMO wait for the non-reference versions to make their way to market. I'm looking to replace my older GPUs but I'm waiting for the 4GB versions to appear.

    Regrading the artifacts, try upping the GPU's stock clocks just a tad.
  43. Just had something strange happen that I have never encountered before. Shortly after starting a game, my computer froze for ~15 seconds, then unfroze and proceeded to function properly, but gave 2 "beeping" sounds as one might hear from a POST test, but these were through my speakers and occurred while in the OS. Not sure what this means.
  44. I'd really think about your PSU or GPU as the issue if it occurs more often. I assume it didn't sound like a USB device being unplugged/plugged-in?

    Open you Event Manager and list the [+] Critical errors only; see below:
  45. The only one listed under Critical is "Kernal Power" and it is in the "7 Days" category, so it is not the one that just happened. I would assume it is likely referring to one of the BSOD I got from my overclock in the last week or so.
  46. While 'trying' OC's sure you'll get 41/63's. You sure you didn't install any Utilities e.g. ASUS AI Suite, etc?

    Q - What AV (Anti-Virus) are you using?
  47. It just happened again, this time with 1 beep when the computer unfroze. As I said, this hasn't happened before, so I am concerned with it happening twice within a few minutes of each other. I am running at stock speeds on everything right now, so it is not an overclock issue, and I am positive I do not have any Utilities installed like that. The only things I have installed are a few games, some benchmark programs and monitoring applications like EVGA Precision, CPUZ etc. I am using Malwarebytes as my AV
  48. EVGA Precision - Restore defaults to your GPU. I'm not a fanboy of EVGA Precision (nor ASUS's version), so instead IMO use MSI Afterburner - Further, in most cases and especially with reference cards I do not recommend increasing GPU voltages.
  49. I have not OCd my GPU at all. I just have Precision installed to monitor my GPU performance when in games. I have had it installed for weeks though, so I would hesitate to think it is what has caused the lockup/beeping issues today. I dug through the Event Viewer some more I have 2 errors that were my graphics driver crashing that happened around the time the lockups occurred. It could be a coincidence, but I think that may be what I was noticing.
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