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Help needed with "Studio" shots

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Anonymous
June 12, 2005 7:59:17 PM

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

Ok guys and gals, I need some suggestions on shooting a few "studio" shots
with out a professional studio. I've posted some test shots of what I need
to shoot at http://www.pbase.com/rkircher/test_shot


Here is the equipment I have to do this with. My 300D, a tripod, my 28-135,
or my 18-55 lens, my 550ex and 420ex flashes that I can set up in a master
slave config, however the 55ex has to be on the camera because I don't own
the IR sending unit. I have a large blue table cloth (seen in test shots)
to use for a background. I also have a double halogen work light that I can
set up if I need more like or use in lue of the flashes. I'll be doing this
shoot in my living room which has off white walls and ceiling.

I was planning on draping the table cloth over a couple of ladders and
letting it flow out onto the floor where I'll place the items in small
groups and at different levels off the floor. I'm going to set the camera
on my tripod in a somewhat low orientation to the floor but I was thinking
that shooting down on the items would be better then straight on.

Of course any suggestions on the setup would be appreciated but my real
questions has to do with how to setup the lighting. I'm thinking that just
using one flash may cast some pretty nasty directional shadows so my thought
was to use the 420 in slave mode off to one side or the other in a bounce
orientation. I could position the camera to one side of the items and the
slave flash to the other and shoot that way. I'm also wondering if I
position the halogen work lights up high and shine them down on the items if
that would help with the lighting of the object. Or should I just try to
light the items with the halogen lights and skip the flashes altogether.
I'm sure I can find some thin white cloth to use as a defuse over the
halogen lights if that would help. I was also thinking that I could correct
any white balance issues in post processing or try to work with the camera's
custom WB settings.

These shot are going to be printed and used on a display board. They may
also find themselves on a web page.

Any suggestions would be very helpful.

Thanks,
Rob

More about : needed studio shots

Anonymous
June 13, 2005 3:11:19 AM

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

"Robert R Kircher, Jr." <rrkircher@hotmail.com> writes:

> Ok guys and gals, I need some suggestions on shooting a few "studio" shots
> with out a professional studio. I've posted some test shots of what I need
> to shoot at http://www.pbase.com/rkircher/test_shot
>
>
> Here is the equipment I have to do this with. My 300D, a tripod, my 28-135,
> or my 18-55 lens, my 550ex and 420ex flashes that I can set up in a master
> slave config, however the 55ex has to be on the camera because I don't own
> the IR sending unit. I have a large blue table cloth (seen in test shots)
> to use for a background. I also have a double halogen work light that I can
> set up if I need more like or use in lue of the flashes. I'll be doing this
> shoot in my living room which has off white walls and ceiling.
>
> I was planning on draping the table cloth over a couple of ladders and
> letting it flow out onto the floor where I'll place the items in small
> groups and at different levels off the floor. I'm going to set the camera
> on my tripod in a somewhat low orientation to the floor but I was thinking
> that shooting down on the items would be better then straight on.
>
> Of course any suggestions on the setup would be appreciated but my real
> questions has to do with how to setup the lighting. I'm thinking that just
> using one flash may cast some pretty nasty directional shadows so my thought
> was to use the 420 in slave mode off to one side or the other in a bounce
> orientation. I could position the camera to one side of the items and the
> slave flash to the other and shoot that way. I'm also wondering if I
> position the halogen work lights up high and shine them down on the items if
> that would help with the lighting of the object. Or should I just try to
> light the items with the halogen lights and skip the flashes altogether.
> I'm sure I can find some thin white cloth to use as a defuse over the
> halogen lights if that would help. I was also thinking that I could correct
> any white balance issues in post processing or try to work with the camera's
> custom WB settings.

If you're concerned about the *sharpness* of the shadows, then what
you need is "softer" light. A diffuser doesn't really help here;
softness is controlled by the *size* of the light source --
specifically the angle subtended by the light source as seen from the
point of view of the subject. (A simple way to model it is that *one*
edge of the shadow is cast by *one* edge of the light source, and the
*other* edge is cast by the *other*; so the farther apart in the "sky"
the edges of the light source are, the wider the shadow is, i.e. the
softer the shadow is.)

For color balance, you're going to be happier working with just
halogen or just flash. Otherwise you're going to find the shadows are
either very warm or very cool (depending on which lights you use
where). Or *some* of the shadows are; relative to the highlights.
For that matter the highlights may well not all match either. Color
balance can't handle that situation. Post processing can only at
immense trouble -- masking the bits lit from each direction and
correcting separately. Best not to go there!
--
David Dyer-Bennet, <mailto:D d-b@dd-b.net>, <http://www.dd-b.net/dd-b/&gt;
RKBA: <http://noguns-nomoney.com/&gt; <http://www.dd-b.net/carry/&gt;
Pics: <http://dd-b.lighthunters.net/&gt; <http://www.dd-b.net/dd-b/SnapshotAlbum/&gt;
Dragaera/Steven Brust: <http://dragaera.info/&gt;
Anonymous
June 13, 2005 5:40:10 PM

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

"David Dyer-Bennet" <dd-b@dd-b.net> wrote in message
news:m2acluew0o.fsf@gw.dd-b.net...
> "Robert R Kircher, Jr." <rrkircher@hotmail.com> writes:
>
>> Ok guys and gals, I need some suggestions on shooting a few "studio"
>> shots
>> with out a professional studio. I've posted some test shots of what I
>> need
>> to shoot at http://www.pbase.com/rkircher/test_shot
>>
>>
>> Here is the equipment I have to do this with. My 300D, a tripod, my
>> 28-135,
>> or my 18-55 lens, my 550ex and 420ex flashes that I can set up in a
>> master
>> slave config, however the 55ex has to be on the camera because I don't
>> own
>> the IR sending unit. I have a large blue table cloth (seen in test
>> shots)
>> to use for a background. I also have a double halogen work light that I
>> can
>> set up if I need more like or use in lue of the flashes. I'll be doing
>> this
>> shoot in my living room which has off white walls and ceiling.
>>
>> I was planning on draping the table cloth over a couple of ladders and
>> letting it flow out onto the floor where I'll place the items in small
>> groups and at different levels off the floor. I'm going to set the
>> camera
>> on my tripod in a somewhat low orientation to the floor but I was
>> thinking
>> that shooting down on the items would be better then straight on.
>>
>> Of course any suggestions on the setup would be appreciated but my real
>> questions has to do with how to setup the lighting. I'm thinking that
>> just
>> using one flash may cast some pretty nasty directional shadows so my
>> thought
>> was to use the 420 in slave mode off to one side or the other in a bounce
>> orientation. I could position the camera to one side of the items and
>> the
>> slave flash to the other and shoot that way. I'm also wondering if I
>> position the halogen work lights up high and shine them down on the items
>> if
>> that would help with the lighting of the object. Or should I just try to
>> light the items with the halogen lights and skip the flashes altogether.
>> I'm sure I can find some thin white cloth to use as a defuse over the
>> halogen lights if that would help. I was also thinking that I could
>> correct
>> any white balance issues in post processing or try to work with the
>> camera's
>> custom WB settings.
>
> If you're concerned about the *sharpness* of the shadows, then what
> you need is "softer" light. A diffuser doesn't really help here;
> softness is controlled by the *size* of the light source --
> specifically the angle subtended by the light source as seen from the
> point of view of the subject. (A simple way to model it is that *one*
> edge of the shadow is cast by *one* edge of the light source, and the
> *other* edge is cast by the *other*; so the farther apart in the "sky"
> the edges of the light source are, the wider the shadow is, i.e. the
> softer the shadow is.)
>
> For color balance, you're going to be happier working with just
> halogen or just flash. Otherwise you're going to find the shadows are
> either very warm or very cool (depending on which lights you use
> where). Or *some* of the shadows are; relative to the highlights.
> For that matter the highlights may well not all match either. Color
> balance can't handle that situation. Post processing can only at
> immense trouble -- masking the bits lit from each direction and
> correcting separately. Best not to go there!


Thanks David for the info. I decided to go with the Master/Slave flash
setup. I place the camera on tripod to the left of the items and the slave
flash to the right up high. Both flashes were in a bounce orientation. I
use my 18-55 lens. I left WB on automatic and did very minor correction in
post processing.

http://www.pbase.com/rkircher/scrapbook_tools

The focus is a tad lacking but the printed results are more then good enough
for my needs. Next time I'll work a bit more with settings and focus and
see if I can do better.

Thanks again
Rob
!