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(Problem) Computer starts for 1 seconds and off, keeps repeating

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March 29, 2012 4:02:56 PM

Hello, I'm new to the forums but I'm a long time lurker. :) 


A few weeks ago I built my first PC through Newegg. This isn't my first time building a PC but it was the first time building MY pc.

After a few hours of putting together my PC I ran into some issues, one of my memory stick was DOA so I had to RMA and wait 2 weeks to build my PC. Once I got my sticks back I ran into a issue with my Asus Sabertooth P67 MB so I had to RMA that aswel. I waited another 2 weeks to recieve my MB and put together my PC. While in the process of putting together my PC I dropped my old 500GB 7200 HD and that wouldn't work anymore, I had to order a new SSD and had to wait another weeks. I've been having bad luck with my PC build :( 

So here is the issue now, After a few days of putting my PC together it was running perfect. I didn't have any issues with anything and my computer was lightning fast. About 3 days ago when I went to turn my PC on in the morning I notice it wouldn't start/boot. It would start for a split second and turn off again. It did this for about 10 minutes and nothing was happening. I've never seen this problem with any of my PCs before. I manage to get it started by just turn off the PS and turning it on a few time. I removed the MB connector and plugged it back it. I even hit my MEMok button in the process because I thought it might have been a issue with my memory again. Well, after a few minutes the computer started. I thought I'd fix the problem but it wasn't fix.

This morning it did the samething. I've notice that it only does it in the morning when the computer hasn't been running for a few hours. This morning the computer booted to Windows7 and then I got a blackscreen after about 10 seconds. I tried to hit my reset switch or power switch and that wouldn't work. I had to turn my PC off by the power supply. When I went to turn it back on again came the 1 second off and on issue I was having 3 days ago.

My question is could the power supply be the main issue here? All my parts have warranty.


Here is my spec:
Case - Corsair 600T
CPU - Intel i5 2500k
CPU(F) - Corsair A70
MB - Asus Sabertooth P67
Mem - Corsair Vengeance DDR3 LP (8GB)
SSD - Sankdisk 120GB Sata III
PS - OCZ ZT Series 750W Fully-Modular
Vcard - XFX HD 6950
March 29, 2012 4:10:48 PM

forgot to mention that after a few minutes of it doing that the computer runs fine. I can even turn it off and for a minutes and turn it back on without a problem. Its when I leave it off for a long period of time that it will start having the problem with startup.
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March 29, 2012 7:08:47 PM

Okay, I went ahead and took out the BIOS batt and cleared CMOS, but nothing happened. Still started up by turning off and on, no boot screen. Then I went to unplug the PS and plugged back in. This time it turned on and was remaining on but no boot or bios screen. I had to remove the PS supply cord and plug it in a few times so that it could work. Then when I went in BIOS the first time my PC froze. It's working again but still don't have a clue to what might be the problem.
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March 30, 2012 1:47:16 AM

I think you are on to something with the PSU. Try a different power supply in it and see if that helps. Next, try using a different graphics card. Once you've tried that, remove all but one memory module and see how far you get. (Or, try just one DIMM first, THEN move onto the PSU thing) Beyond that, unplug your machine, hold the power button for 30 second, remove CMOS battery and move the jumper. to clear CMOS and let sit overnight. Hopefully that will get things back running correctly. After that, update your BIOS if it will load the BIOS and POST. And, if none of those seem to help ya, reseat the processor and REAPPLY thermal paste; After cleaning off all the old stuff of course.

Let us know what you find.
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March 30, 2012 2:13:14 AM

Are you turning it off? Or, are you letting it go to sleep, or Hibernate/
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March 30, 2012 2:22:16 AM

There are a few things it could be, but the most likely is the PSU or the motherboard. try booting without the video card in there and see if that works, if it does then it is either the power supply or the PCIE socket (or the controller, its not really important WHAT caused it, but more important which bit of HW is causing the issue)

then try the card in a different socket, if it boots up flawlessly all the time then thats your issue the mobo socket (RMA it)

but for now I think its the power supply.
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March 30, 2012 2:44:12 AM

Yes I am turning off my computer in Windows. I have removed Hibernate b/c I only have a 120GB SSD and need the space. The problem with testing my PC for problems is that I have to leave my PC off for at least 5 hours. If I turn off my PC right now and unplugged the PSU from the MB and reconnect it everything will still be okay like there isn't a issue. Now, If I leave my PC off over night and try to turn it on in the morning, thats when I get the startup problem. I will test everything you guys have said tomorrow morning. I would leave my PC off right now but this is my only PC for school (and games :)  ) Thank You guys again. I've already put in a RMA order with my PSU.


I'm really starting to think it's the PSU. My computer feels like a car that is low on battery and need to jump it a few times to get it going.
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March 30, 2012 8:59:37 AM

Okay, So I left my computer off for a few hours and moved the jumper to clear CMOS for a few hours. The computer turned on this time but there wasn't a boot screen or bios screen. The fans were running at full speed (only does this for a second or two when I first start my computer) for about 5 minutes until I hit the back of the PSU to off and on again. Then I went to turn on my PC and it booted just fine. Now I will have to wait while I go to bed and see if the problem is still there. Thanks for the help and if this worked Ill be sure to post back to help those who are having this problem now or in the future. :) 
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March 30, 2012 4:33:22 PM

Okay, Here is what I did this morning.

1. I tried to turn on my pc to see if everything was fine now (It wasn't) Still had the off and on issue.

2. I removed the GPU and tried to turn it on, Same issue.

3. I then removed the memory but with no luck, same issue

4. I removed my SSD drive, no luck aswel.

5.I changed my Modular cables on my PSU and still no luck.

6. I tried the Clear CMOS. No luck.



This time it took nearly a hour to get it running again. It's never taken this long. I will also add that the problem started around the time that I got my SSD. I'm not sure if this is relevant.

I tried to test out my system with a old PSU but it didn't have a 8pin MB plug. I did plug in the 24pin to the motherboard and it was giving me the same issue. I'm not sure if it's because the MB didn't have the 8pin at the time but I just thought i'd add.

Right now my computer is running fine like always after dealing with this issue for a few minutes.

Should I try to take my bios back to a different date?
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March 30, 2012 4:48:25 PM

Changing your BIOS date will have zero affect here. Unless you have a flux-capacitor installed. :)  jk

From your list of tests, I agree with the others in the thread, it's likely your PSU. That other/older PSU, missing the 8 pins isn't a legitimate test, unfortunately. I'd start the RMA process on your PSU, doing it via a cross-ship, if possible (this way you can hopefully still use your system). In the meantime, just don't turn off the PC. :) 
The unfortunate thing is that after all of this you may find after all of this it's your motherboard... but statistically speaking PSU is significantly more probable.
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March 30, 2012 5:54:46 PM

Thanks psaus. Now I have to call and ask/hope OCZ does cross ship.
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March 30, 2012 7:24:59 PM

If you still have neweggs warranty thing I would go through them rather then OCZ

most companies return policy make you pay shipping and restocking etc etc etc

I wanted to send my monitor back for a defect and it would have cost me around 20 bucks just for shipping then they wanted a restocking fee (I think thats what it was) for another 20 -.-

I talked to newegg and they paid for shipping etc.
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March 30, 2012 7:54:32 PM

^ if you bought through newegg, definitely do that. Great service from them.

But if there is a fault and you're exchanging, you should never have to pay a restocking fee. For a refund restocking fees can apply, but never for exchange. I think it's illegal even?
Paying for shipping however, not so lucky.
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March 30, 2012 7:59:55 PM

psaus said:
^ if you bought through newegg, definitely do that. Great service from them.

But if there is a fault and you're exchanging, you should never have to pay a restocking fee. For a refund restocking fees can apply, but never for exchange. I think it's illegal even?
Paying for shipping however, not so lucky.



I did buy it from newegg but the problem is...its past the 30 day return/place mark. The first week that I got all my parts the memory stick was DOA, so I had to RMA it back to newegg and couldn't test out the rest of my parts. Then after about 1 1/2 I got the memory and my MB wouldn't update bios and after 4 hours on the phone with a tech support guy from Asus, He just said return it to newegg and get a replacement. Once I got my MB it was to late to return anything that could have gone wrong. Like I stated above, When I was cleaning my PC I drop my old HDD and broke it so I had to order a SSD. That took about a week to get here. The computer was running perfect and then bam, 3 day later I get this issue. It's beyond late to replace it with newegg unless I can explain what happened and work something out with them.

Bad Luck with this build :( 
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March 30, 2012 8:54:04 PM

Just got off the phone with OCZ and they are willing to sell me a new PSU unit while I return my old one and get a refund once they recieve it. :)  Now, I only hope that this is the main cause.
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March 31, 2012 5:31:07 AM

Okay, I was a bit bored and went ahead and did a prime95 for a test hour to see if I could find a problem there. I notice that my stock vcore is only at 1.193V and the power doesn't get above 61.97 Watt at full load. When idel it is only at .9700V. Is that normal? If I remember correctly my brothers stock i5 2500k was running at arounf 70 Watts and a Vcore of 1.200 V.
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March 31, 2012 6:48:29 AM

Im trying to troubleshoot my pc as much as I can before I send my PSU in.

I did a 3DMark 11 and my score was very low. I've been noticing that when I play World of Warcraft my FPS drops to 25-30 when I open a youtube video or a video in general. I normally run at 250+FPS at max setting. I don't ever recall having a FPS drop when youtube was open on my old PC. Also, lately I haven't seen my FPS go anywhere near the 250. I've been around 60-100FPS. Could a bad PSU caused this aswel?
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March 31, 2012 9:36:36 AM

Yea, bad luck indeed. Sorry to hear that. Unfortunately it does happen to the best of us now and again.
From your post 3 posts ago, I'd suggest going that route. Basically that's what they call a cross ship. Some companies will only charge you after a certain number of days have elapsed, others charge you upfront. But as a point of sanity, I'd do it (if you haven't already).
As for the coreV, I think things look normal there.
Regarding your last post, has my scratching my head a little, but could still be the PSU. None the less, everything in that post points to the GPU. But if the PSU is acting up like you've described, it's possible the PSU is starving the GPU...

Just think of it this way, after this system, statistically all the next systems you build will go fine. :) 
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March 31, 2012 9:42:45 AM

calsk said:
Im trying to troubleshoot my pc as much as I can before I send my PSU in.

I did a 3DMark 11 and my score was very low. I've been noticing that when I play World of Warcraft my FPS drops to 25-30 when I open a youtube video or a video in general. I normally run at 250+FPS at max setting. I don't ever recall having a FPS drop when youtube was open on my old PC. Also, lately I haven't seen my FPS go anywhere near the 250. I've been around 60-100FPS. Could a bad PSU caused this aswel?



TBH, I have no idea why tis doing this... but uh... I would just sit back and play the waiting game lol.

as for the voltages, meh they never are very accurate, my 12v rail is running at 11.4-11.6 according to H/W monitor... and my cpu wattage is at 105 at max load according to it (even though its a 95w @ stock clocks and voltages.)
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March 31, 2012 6:25:46 PM

Okay, I'm waiting for a friend to get off work to lend me his PSU and troubleshoot my PC. I just ran a PerformanceTest 7.0 and everything is above average. I ran Asus PC Diagnostics test to see if there was any fault in my MB and everything came out perfect. I'm almost positive it's the PSU like you guys are saying. :) 
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April 1, 2012 5:11:35 PM

Okay, So my friends PSU didn't have enough 6pin GPU connectors so I couldn't test it out on my PC. I did manage to test my PSU with his PC and everything worked perfectly. I let him borrow it over night and this morning he told me it booted just fine. I guess I have a 2nd bad MB. Would a bad CPU cause these problems? I'm just trying to test everything I can at this point
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April 1, 2012 9:17:21 PM

Hmmm, its possible that its the graphics card, its also possible that its still the psu thats having an issue, my reason for believing this is because if his power supply didn't have enough 6pin connectors then I doubt his system is drawing enough power to put strain on your psu.

It might be your power supply just doesn't like sudden voltage spikes (IE when turning it on from a cold boot) needs a power cycle to heat up per say.

Try you power supply without the graphics card, try it again with it in there.

Try your system without the graphics card in there this time with his psu.

if theres no change then try his power supply just hooked up to the motherboard / drives and your psu only hooked into the graphics card. (google how to start it without the 24 pin plug hooked in, fairly simple)

if it does it without the graphics card in there with his psu then its almost assuredly your motherboard thats the issue.

Either way this "should" rule out the graphics card being an issue
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April 1, 2012 9:48:42 PM

mouse24 said:
Hmmm, its possible that its the graphics card, its also possible that its still the psu thats having an issue, my reason for believing this is because if his power supply didn't have enough 6pin connectors then I doubt his system is drawing enough power to put strain on your psu.

It might be your power supply just doesn't like sudden voltage spikes (IE when turning it on from a cold boot) needs a power cycle to heat up per say.

Try you power supply without the graphics card, try it again with it in there.

Try your system without the graphics card in there this time with his psu.

if theres no change then try his power supply just hooked up to the motherboard / drives and your psu only hooked into the graphics card. (google how to start it without the 24 pin plug hooked in, fairly simple)

if it does it without the graphics card in there with his psu then its almost assuredly your motherboard thats the issue.

Either way this "should" rule out the graphics card being an issue


Thank You mouse24, I will try that tomorrow morning. Another thing that happened today is that the computer booted to Windows 7 main screen for about 30 seconds then it just froze. I couldn't shut it off againa nd I had to turn the PC off by the PSU. Then when I went to turn it on the shut off and on problem accrued again. Tomorrow morning I will removed my GPU and turn on the PC.
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April 1, 2012 10:25:35 PM

calsk said:
Thank You mouse24, I will try that tomorrow morning. Another thing that happened today is that the computer booted to Windows 7 main screen for about 30 seconds then it just froze. I couldn't shut it off againa nd I had to turn the PC off by the PSU. Then when I went to turn it on the shut off and on problem accrued again. Tomorrow morning I will removed my GPU and turn on the PC.



Alright, it concerns me when you say you shut it off via the psu though. Do you mean you hit the switch in the back? if so you should NEVER do this at all, its ok to do this when its turned off though. so for turning a pc off when its froze you just normally hold down the power button for around 10 ish seconds (or long enough for it to turn off)

This method is a bit better but still not ideal :) 

So before you go to sleep do you hit the switch on the back of the power supply? its probably irrelevant in any case im just curious. If you don't hit the switch before going to sleep try doing it (switching it from the on position to the off then switching it on in the morning) or vice versa.
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April 1, 2012 10:46:32 PM

mouse24 said:
Alright, it concerns me when you say you shut it off via the psu though. Do you mean you hit the switch in the back? if so you should NEVER do this at all, its ok to do this when its turned off though. so for turning a pc off when its froze you just normally hold down the power button for around 10 ish seconds (or long enough for it to turn off)

This method is a bit better but still not ideal :) 

So before you go to sleep do you hit the switch on the back of the power supply? its probably irrelevant in any case im just curious. If you don't hit the switch before going to sleep try doing it (switching it from the on position to the off then switching it on in the morning) or vice versa.



I'm sorry I was specific enough. What I meant to say is that the computer froze within 30 seconds at my home screen. I couldn't move my mouse or use my keyboard. I hit the reset button on my case and nothing happened. I held the power on button on my case for about a minute and nothing happened. The only way I could turn off the PC was by hitting the PSU switch in the back. I never use that switch unless I'm dusting my computer or moving my computer around. When I turn off my PC, I just shut it down via windows
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April 1, 2012 11:44:29 PM

calsk said:
I'm sorry I was specific enough. What I meant to say is that the computer froze within 30 seconds at my home screen. I couldn't move my mouse or use my keyboard. I hit the reset button on my case and nothing happened. I held the power on button on my case for about a minute and nothing happened. The only way I could turn off the PC was by hitting the PSU switch in the back. I never use that switch unless I'm dusting my computer or moving my computer around. When I turn off my PC, I just shut it down via windows



Thats rather odd, the power button should always work :/  since its just a simple switch. I would ask if you have your power switch on correctly but since it turns it on I guess it is.

Hmm. well good luck with the tests :) 
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April 2, 2012 8:14:45 AM

Definitely odd, calsk. Mouse24's suggestions are spot on, IMO. Do be careful starting a PSU without having it connected to a mobo. He's right it is easy, but it's also easy to get a not-so-nice-feeling-shock. (e.g., not something you should do for your first time with a beer, but easy enough if you're sharp :)  ).

Including the difficult shutdown as of late, IMO, the PSU, mobo and GPU are all about equal in potentially being the problem.
Keep us posted as to how the tests go.
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April 2, 2012 8:53:12 PM

weird, I did what Mouse24 said and had a different result. I went to turn on my PC with everything connected and this time it would even boot. It just did the off and on cycle like normal. Then I went to remove the GPU form the MB and PSU and tired to turn it on and same problem with the off and on cycle. I went to plug the GPU back in and it booted fine. This isn't the first time removing the GPU but it's the first time doing removing 1 piece by 1 piece to see which hardware might be causing the problems. The PSU has been sent and I have a ticket open for my MB. I will not ship out of MB if it's the GPU.
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April 4, 2012 8:20:28 AM

I talked to a Asus rep and he said it might be the MB. He issued a ticket for me for a RMA. He told me to try and put my PC to "sleep" instead of "shutdown" when I go to bed and I did that. It turned on perfectly with no issues. It seems to only be a fresh startup problem. I'm no techy so I'll take his word for it :p  Thank You guys for the help and I will keep you guys informed.
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April 4, 2012 8:33:56 AM

It's a lot of work on your part, but at least you're getting an RMA with ease. I can see how sleep vs shutdown could help band-aid the issue, but I could see that apply to PSU and GPU too.
But at this point, if I'm tracking this properly, you will soon have mobo and PSU replaced. Therefore if it STILL doesn't work, the GPU is the only thing left. :) 
Fingers crossed for you...
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April 19, 2012 12:19:19 AM

It was.....(Drum Roll)....The MB. I got my motherboard replaced yesterday and just bought a new Corsair 800W form Best Buy since they were having a sale. I first installed the new motherboard with all the old hardware and everything was working perfectly. I then went ahead and installed the new power supply on my "old" board and it wouldn't boot. I really hope this doesn't happen again but on a good note; I love Asus Support, will be buying another board from them again (even thought this is my second RMA in 3 months). My FPS are back to normal and everything is less glitchy.


Side Note: I just notice that when I went to plug my headset to the front jack of my Corsair 600T only the right side of my headset worked. I then went to plug them inside the rear MB jack and everything is normal. Anyone have a clue what might be the issue? I hope to god it isn't a MB issue :fou: 
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April 19, 2012 8:10:14 AM

I'd first check that the audio header is plugged into the board properly. Given you've just done a mobo swap, that'd be my first thought (but then again probably yours too).
I know my Asus P6T-**something board has 2 settings in the BIOS for the front panel - HD/SPIDF (or something like that) and 97' audio (or something close to that). See if you have those similar settings in your BIOS and tinker.

If you do in fact have a hardware/mobo problem, if I were you, I wouldn't go replacing the board again. Too much work for a headset. Just get yourself an extension cable and route the audio from the back to your desktop/font of the case/etc. Yes, it's not ideal, but with all your frustration, I'd go get the $2 cable from radio shack and wash my hands of it all. :)  (if that back port is occupied by external speakers, buy a splitter or y-cable at the same time - $3 total.)

EDIT: Oh, just thought of something else; in Windows, have your headset plugged into the front playing audio. Then right click on the speaker in the systray, select "Playback Devices". In this Window you should notice an item that is clearly your front panel (most likely titled "headphones"). Check the properties for that, one that stands out to me is the Advanced tab, insuring it's set to 2 channels and not 1. Tinker with other settings too and you might recover stereo...
Good luck, mate
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