Best camera setting for photographing a parade

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

"Brian" <bclark@es.co.nz> wrote in message
news:kpova1dl56b85gnpc1sv84uo2rmp7l8im0@4ax.com...
> What would be the best camera setting for photographing a parade?
> I was thinking of setting the camera to the sports setting (icon of a
> golfer) as there is movement in the parade (speed is at walking pace)
> and the camera need to re-focus a lot. The only problem is if it's a
> dull day then the aperature would be wide and likely to give me a
> narrow depth of field.
> The camera is a Canon 300D.
At walking pace I wouldn't worry too much about using super-fast shutter
speeds. Depending on the lens focal length used, you should get by with
shutter speeds in the 1/125 - 1/250 range. Even on a very dull day at
100ISO you would still be at about F5.6 - F8 at 1/100 sec. if it's bright
and sunny you'd be at about F11 at 1/250. If you really want a faster
shutter speed and/or smaller aperture, lift the ISO to 200 or 400 - the 300D
will still deliver very acceptible results at this speed.
Depending on the nature of the parade you may even want to experiment with
slower shutter speeds. eg if you have baton twirlers or similar you may want
to try shutter speeds in the vicinity of 1/15 down to 1/4. You might have
trouble getting this slow if it's bright and sunny unless you use a
polariser or ND filter to take a bit of light out. And don't forget a tripod
or monopod if you want to try this sort of thing.
>
> Suggestions are very welcome.
>
> Regards Brian

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"Brian" <bclark@es.co.nz> wrote in message
news:kpova1dl56b85gnpc1sv84uo2rmp7l8im0@4ax.com...
> What would be the best camera setting for photographing a parade?
> I was thinking of setting the camera to the sports setting (icon of a
> golfer) as there is movement in the parade (speed is at walking pace)
> and the camera need to re-focus a lot. The only problem is if it's a
> dull day then the aperature would be wide and likely to give me a
> narrow depth of field.
> The camera is a Canon 300D.
>
> Suggestions are very welcome.
>
> Regards Brian

Depth of field should not be an issue at a parade as long as you are right
at the side of the street and using more of a wide angle. Why use these
crutch modes at all? Use the creative modes, such as Av or Tv and force the
camera to do what you want. That is a big part of the creative process! I
rely on the meter to balance the shutter speed when set the aperture or vice
versa. I don't want some microchip telling me what the aperture should be or
popping up the flash when I don't want it!
-S

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

"Brian" <bclark@es.co.nz> wrote in message
news:kpova1dl56b85gnpc1sv84uo2rmp7l8im0@4ax.com...
> What would be the best camera setting for photographing a parade?
> I was thinking of setting the camera to the sports setting (icon of a
> golfer) as there is movement in the parade (speed is at walking pace)
> and the camera need to re-focus a lot. The only problem is if it's a
> dull day then the aperature would be wide and likely to give me a
> narrow depth of field.
> The camera is a Canon 300D.
>
> Suggestions are very welcome.
>
> Regards Brian

Depth of field should not be an issue at a parade as long as you are right
at the side of the street and using more of a wide angle. Why use these
crutch modes at all? Use the creative modes, such as Av or Tv and force the
camera to do what you want. That is a big part of the creative process! I
rely on the meter to balance the shutter speed when set the aperture or vice
versa. I don't want some microchip telling me what the aperture should be or
popping up the flash when I don't want it!
-S

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

Brian <bclark@es.co.nz> writes:

> What would be the best camera setting for photographing a parade?
> I was thinking of setting the camera to the sports setting (icon of a
> golfer) as there is movement in the parade (speed is at walking pace)
> and the camera need to re-focus a lot. The only problem is if it's a
> dull day then the aperature would be wide and likely to give me a
> narrow depth of field.
> The camera is a Canon 300D.

Embrace P mode. Set the ISO according to the sunlight level. ISO
200 should work fine for just about any sort of day.

Depending on your shot, you might want a shallow depth of field. That
wheel on your index finger will let you choose on a per shot basis.

--
Todd H.
http://www.toddh.net/

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"[BnH]" <b18[at]ii[dot]net> wrote in message
news:42b0027d$0$11713$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader-01.iinet.net.au...
>
> "Justin Thyme" <pleasedontspamme@nowhere.com> wrote in message
> news:4aTre.578$%f5.3475@nnrp1.ozemail.com.au...
>
>> Even on a very dull day at 100ISO you would still be at about F5.6 - F8
>> at 1/100 sec. if it's bright and sunny you'd be at about F11 at 1/250.
>
> Not in Sydney. What camera are you using ?
> I used S2 Pro and D1H ... on a bright day like in Sydney today I can only
> get around 1/250" f/8 ISO 200 when photographing people [because I set to
> Shutter priority ]
> And if the weather is really dull ... it normally will drop to f/2.8
> 1/250" ISO 200.
uhm... all my pentaxes, with all my lenses will give those kind of figures.
Which is remarkably close to the "sunny 16" rule - which says in bright sun
at ISO 100, F16 the shutter speed should be about 1/100. If you are getting
1/250 F8 at ISO 200, then either your lens is actually 2 stops slower than
it's rated, you are using some sort of filter that's dropping your light, or
your camera's ISO isn't really 200.
>
> And I use CWA metering with 8mm metering area.
>
> =bob=
>
>

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

"[BnH]" wrote:
>
> "Justin Thyme" <pleasedontspamme@nowhere.com> wrote in message
> news:4aTre.578$%f5.3475@nnrp1.ozemail.com.au...
>
> > Even on a very dull day at 100ISO you would still be at about F5.6 - F8 at
> > 1/100 sec. if it's bright and sunny you'd be at about F11 at 1/250.
>
> Not in Sydney. What camera are you using ?
> I used S2 Pro and D1H ... on a bright day like in Sydney today I can only
> get around 1/250" f/8 ISO 200 when photographing people [because I set to
> Shutter priority ]
> And if the weather is really dull ... it normally will drop to f/2.8 1/250"
> ISO 200.
>
> And I use CWA metering with 8mm metering area.
>
> =bob=

It escapes me what CWA metering is, but on a bright - that is, sunny -
day, with the sun more or less behind you, and with an ISO rating of
200, your exposure should be 1/250 at f/16, or any equivalent
combination.

If the sun is sideways to your shot, then 1/250 at f/11, and maybe 1/250
at f/8 if the subject is more or less backlit.

If you are getting 1/250 at f/8 with sun behind you, something is not
right with your meter or how you are using it. That combo will give you
2 stops overexposure. With film, you will probably get away with it;
with digital, your brighter areas will be blown to peak white.

Tell us more of what you are using.

Colin

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

"Cheesehead" <dplotusnotes@yahoo.com> wrote:

>I'd worry more about focal length than position.
>Very Wide (20mm or so) would allow you some creative positioning. Move
>anywhere.
>
>Collin

If I use wide angle lens then do I get more depth of field?

Regards Brian