Mouse Freeze and PSU problem

Hey guys, I've been having some weird problems with computer and cant seem to fix it.

The first one being, my mouse seems to freeze frequently, like every 3-5 seconds. So I googled a LOT and tried most of the solutions on it, infact one of those even ruined my OS :|

So here's what all I tried and MY conclusion about it.
->I uninstalled the drivers and reconnected the mouse. (Didn't work)
->I checked for updates to drivers for the mouse (Didn't work and thus must not be a driver problem)
->I installed the software provided by the mouse (Didn't work, just made my sensitivity higher and I wasn't able to control the mouse so uninstalled it.)
->I tried some registry key thing which just ruined my system (Didn't work.)
->Because of the ruined OS, I reinstalled windows 7 (Concluded that it has nothing to do with software since it resets registries to default values)
-> I tried plugging it into all the different USB ports there (Mouse problem maybe? , cuz keyboard also works fine in any slot.)
->Tried it on my friends computer (Worked there so It's not the mouse' problem)

And also the mouse seems to work when I lift it and shake it a bit but goes unresponsive after sometime so I have to repeat this every time it gets stuck.

So I guessed it was some issue with the power. I bought my UPS back, since this issue came a few days after the UPS had problems.

Any help for this would be appreciated!

Problem 2 : Fast spinning fan

One day, all of a sudden I noticed that one of the fans in my computer was spinning really fast, REALLY fast, by the sound it seemed to be well over 2.5k RPM. So I switched it off to see if the thermal paste dried out.
It didn't, so the next time I decided to check which fan it was that was causing the problem. So I opened speedfan when it started spinning faster. It isn't both of the fans (1 Chassis fan, 1 Heatsink fan). So it definitely had to be the PSU's fan since the others were operating at otherwise normal speeds.
Also, the CPU and Core weren't heating up, so it must not have been a wrong fan reading.

Tech Specs :-

(From Piriform Speccy)

Operating System
MS Windows 7 Ultimate 32-bit
AMD Athlon 64 X2 4200+ 38 °C
Brisbane 65nm Technology
2.00 GB Dual-Channel DDR2 @ 316MHz (5-5-5-15)
Acer EM61SM/EM61PM (Socket M2 ) 40 °C
Acer AL2216W (1680x1050@59Hz)
256MB GeForce 6100 nForce 405 (Elitegroup)
Hard Drives
298GB Western Digital WDC WD32 00AAJS-22B4A SCSI Disk Device (ATA)
Optical Drives
DTSOFT Virtual CdRom Device
High Definition Audio Device

Motherboard Voltages :

CPU CORE 1.104 V
+3.3V 1.792 V
+5V 5.591 V
+12V 11.968 V
-12V -4.672 V
-5V -11.520 V

Feel free to ask questions and give suggestions ;)
24 answers Last reply
More about mouse freeze problem
  1. Welcome to Tom's Hardware Forums,
    My first piece of advice here... keep your initial thread short - too much info isn't necessarily good here (seems most don't like to read a lot).
    My questions; What model Acer? Can you run the computer with the panel off to ensure it is the PSU fan? Have you cleaned the inside of the computer (including the PSU) lately? What model is your mouse - if it isn't a pricy gaming mouse, I'd replace it since troubleshooting idiosyncrasies of perifrials like that doesn't seem to me to be worth it. Have you tried your friend's mouse on your computer - does that work? Where does the UPS come into play?
    An observation, I'm hoping the mobo negative voltages are simply transposed and aren't actually backward.
    Sorry for all the questions, it'll help
  2. Yeah sorry about the long thread. Deleted the unwanted specs :). Thanks for the reply. And In reply to your questions -
    It's an Acer Aspire Desktop , 3-4 years old but dunno the exact model.
    Yes I've tried running it with the panel off and with the panel off it seems to be either the chassis fan or the PSU fan since the both are close together I couldn't get exactly where the sound was coming from so I switched the computer off, The sound of the fan going of are in sync with both of the fans but the chassis fan isn't spinning that fast.
    Yes I have cleaned the motherboard,PSU, Chassis, heatsink and even the cabinet lately.
    It isn't a gaming mouse but it is averagely pricey, but since it worked on a friends computer I assumed it might not be the mouse' problem.
    I haven't tried my friends mouse on this computer though, shall try it As soon as possible.
    Well I mentioned the UPS since this problem happened a few weeks after the UPS had gone for replacement, after replacement also it didn't work. The motherboard voltages were directly copy pasted from Speccy.
  3. Is this your computer?
    specs seem close (assuming OS upgrade)
    lol, I'm trying to find specfic info on what you have but am not getting far... at least there aren't any known issues (that I've found) so that's a good sign
  4. Yup, All those specs on that page are correct, but the picture seems different o.o , 1Gb x 2 , 6100 , All correct, Just that picture! x)
    Haha hope this gets fixed soon :(
  5. It's very weird voltage reading, I suggest u change the PSU first maybe the over/under voltage that make the mouse jumpy...

    (If u are not sure, borrow your friend unused/working PSU for a while and test it first before buying)

    edit : change your CMOS Battery...... (It drop from 3 V to 1.168 V, My guest is +3.3 V is not supply true 3.3 V and the CMOS batt not recharged because the voltage to low)
  6. How much will an average CMOS battery cost? Should I buy both the CMOS battery and a PSU or just one? Is there any way to fix it instead of buying a new one? And also, can you link me a video guide to installing a new CMOS Battery?

    EDIT : I saw this video ( and in the description what he has written applies for me, the time resets every time I start the computer.
  7. znxownage said:
    How much will an average CMOS battery cost? Should I buy both the CMOS battery and a PSU or just one? Is there any way to fix it instead of buying a new one? And also, can you link me a video guide to installing a new CMOS Battery?

    Your CMOS battery is simply a watch battery - about $5. I would not get a PSU just yet. Replacing the CMOS battery may be the only cure needed.
    znxownage said:

    ... the time resets every time I start the computer.

    That is a very important bit of information - means CMOS battery is dead since that is part of the job of the CMOS battery - keep system time.

    Replace CMOS battery like vid shows - you may need do nothing else
  8. Thank you, will get back after I order the CMOS battery ;)
    Thanks for all the help given so far!
    If this works , you deserve a best answer ;)
  9. For the CMOS battery, I would just take it out and run to the nearest hardware store or drug store (or other place that carries watch/hearing aid batteries) and match it there. That'll ensure you get the right size/type. Just remember which side is up when you reinstall it.
  10. Hey so i'm gonna replace it tomorrow and just wanted to ask whether it is safe to boot a computer without the CMOS Battery?
  11. I don't know that it will boot without that battery... interesting. I have honestly never considered it, let alone try.
  12. For safety reason don't boot without one...

    (technically it can, but i had some mobo that do weird thing when they are not in there like not detecting hdd, etc)

    for PSU with that voltage reading, I assume it was not deliver the right voltage. (+3.3 V only delivered 1.8 V and +5 V is delivered 5.6 V.)
    That is bad for your system health but for sure it not just sensor error, if u could borrow another PSU that will be great

    Just changing the bat will only temporary fix, CMOS batt will need to be recharged by +3.3V (the bat itself was 3V)

    As I know USB use +5v so if the +5v is jumpy it could effect the USB device, some are more tolerant and some were picky... (edit : 5.6V is way above +-5% threshold )
  13. Hmm, I'll try with a friends PSU as well, but the thing is my keyboard works flawlessly , so does my printer, which both are connected to USB 2.0 ports which the mouse once was connected to.
  14. When u're trying your friend PSU could u take the voltage reading to?

    u could try read it from bios or with HWmonitor....
  15. Well, Just out of curiosity . How can the CMOS battery fix the mouse? o.o Do they have anything in common? Im getting it today most probably, shops were closed till today :@
  16. Yeah so I just got the CMOS battery, and its voltages are good now but my mouse is still dead.
  17. znxownage said:
    Well, Just out of curiosity . How can the CMOS battery fix the mouse? o.o Do they have anything in common? Im getting it today most probably, shops were closed till today :@

    They really should not be related or intertwined but... strange things happen within PC's when the CMOS battery dies and often replacing it causes those strange things to stop - no good explaination for it I am aware of, just something I've noted. I think it was worth a shot anyway since it needed replacing... and did have the potential to save $$ if it worked. Unfortunately, it does look like a PSU replacement is in order.
    As far as some perifrials working, like RDC says, some are just more picky about voltages than others

    Before you go and purchase a PSU, if you haven't already, research the crap out of them - it is a vital part of your computer and (for some yet undisclosed reason) about the worst place for stretching the truth in advertising hype... I've seen reviews for "750W" PSU's that turned out to be rebranded 450W - and not real good at 450W either. There are a few good sites for PSU reviews, I would recommend JonnyGuru, HardwareSecrets and HardOCP
    Quite a bit of reading - you can always skip to the last (conclusion) page for the PSU you're interested in or, I suppose you could start a new PSU thread here...
  18. Thanks for those links man! Will read them up ;)

    EDIT :

    I used to find out how many watts my system needs. It reads Recommeneded as 269+ . So which is the closest available power supply rating 269 Watts? Also could you suggest me a good one within that range? :) Thanks ^_^
    Oh and also, my psu is officially dead now? Can I not fix the voltages?
    Oh and the UPS output voltage is 230W with 5% Tolerance. So will a 300W power supply mess it up?
  19. A 320W would be the minimum I suggest up to 450W. You'll note in the reviews that they check the PSU's at 20%, 50%, 80% and 100+%, at the extremes (high and low) the voltages become more fluxuated, also when operating near the current limits of the PSU, it will run hotter which may shorten it's life expectancy - there really is a lot to PSU's...
    320W would put your PSU at ~75% load - 450W would put your PSU at ~60% load anything in between should work. Your budget along with ratings will decide which way to go...
  20. For recomendation I'm cannot pick for u since i'm not it U.S....

    No, u cannot repair the voltage of psu....

    In case with borrowed psu, the voltage reading is correct then your PSU is dead, and maybe had bring something down with it... (Like the bat, but lets hope it not...) ..edit: by using borrowed PSU did the mouse work?

    Picking UPS is harder than picking PSU...

    An Ideal UPS is 1.5x or 2x wattage of maximum PSU wattage (Wattage not VA, Wattage is like the volt of battery/UPS and VA is like the capacity of Batt/UPS) but they costly..

    some PSU can only use Pure sin wave UPS some can accept modified sin wave

    In real life, we do not use the 100% of PSU capacity so the low wattage/cheaper UPS can be used...

    but keep in mind when we use 80%++ PSU (exceed the UPS wattage) and there a blackout, The UPS can blown because cannot supply the wattage needed by the PSU (my 2500VA UPS blown away just because i'm not concern by the wattage)

    ....After the long writing the only thing u can do is test the ups yourself see if it'll work.........
  21. @C12Friedman

    So I just checked my UPS Wattage and it says 300W , and the Voltage is 230V , I dont want to buy a new UPS since this is brand new, just bought a few days back and its been working fine with this PSU and even the previous UPS (Same readings) were working fine with this PSU (Working Condition)

    (Same Question Im asking rdc as well, )

    Just out of curiosity , the PSU voltages were mixed up, i.e. the 5V was what the 12V is supposed to be and the 12V, the 5V is supposed to be, so might it be a sort of wrong plugging somewhere?

    Also I read somewhere that if the voltages pass the fluctuation point ur system turns off? Why isnt my system turning off?


    Well my neighbours computer are mostly all under warranty, so if I remove the seal then the warranty is void, so I couldn't get their PSUs.

    Sorry for all these questions :P
  22. Understandable, I had a simular issue (with UPS's) - I had upgraded my PSU to an active PFC model and my UPS stopped working right - my computer would shut off at the slightest power glitch. When I contacted the manufacturer, (Cyberpower) they explained "Active PFC power supplies require a pure sinewave UPS". Now I have two UPS's (and they aren't cheap!).
    Anyway, if your UPS is not pure sine wave, avoid getting an Active PFC model PSU simply for compatibility. If it is Pure Sine Wave, active PFC PSU's are better.
    Just another factor to complicate your PSU shopping.
    As far as warranty and removal of a PSU from a system, it does not affect the warranty - just don't open the PSU itself - that is sealed (nothing else is). You can "easily" swap the PSU without voiding anything.
  23. As the reading said There no mixed voltage it just not delivered as it should be...
    (no if there some mixed cabling u will had fried the system and will never run)

    u can ignore the - V they needed in old computer but not in new one....

    If u courius, u can unplug your psu from system, truning it on by short it using paper clips, and test each socket/cables with digital multimeter using digaram (lots on internet) as guidance... btw electrical shock quite sting and make your heart beat faster :D (always use safety measure)

    since u cannot borrow the PSU u stuck with tried and error (it could fix the mouse problems, it could not)

    for UPS wattage as example my NAXN 750w had 85% efficiency (80+ bronze) can draw as much as 900w from wall power..... i will need 900w -1200w UPS ideally (just looking how they priced.........)

    But rare i will use the full power (maybe when i'm using prime95 and furmark at sametimes) if im just browsing or watching a videos my load is low even 400 - 500 watt UPS will work great but the problem start when i'm playing heavy games the UPS will not work as it should be.....

    That the sign i missed, i just think it random since sometimes my ups work sometimes it not, and then it blows.... >.< (lesson learned in hard way)

    Since your system work at 300 watt i will opt for 450w psu, since the best efficiency is archived at 40%-80% capacity...

    rough calculation
    if u go with 80% eficiency (80+ white) PSU, 300w will draw 375 watt from wall
    if u go with 85% eficiency (80+ bronze) PSU, 300w will draw 350 watt from wall
    if u go with 88% eficiency (80+ gold) PSU, 300w will draw 340 watt from wall

    ideally u would go with 400watt UPS, but since u had 300watt one it will work fine for most of the time since u will rarely use the full 300watt power....

    edit: for sine wave, some active PSU more tolerant and some are not, some using square wave (must avoided if using active PSU), some using modified sine wave (It more tolerateble but some PSU is picky). u will have to try id since u had bought it.. or u had to avoid active PSU as c12 said (bad thing is pasive one usually had bad efficiency)

    why your system not turn off? that i'm wondering too.......

    Sorry for my bad English, my spelling checker not worked in this browser :cry:
  24. I can understand the english, its quite good actually :)

    Well just an update.
    2 USB slots on the front panel of my computer just went unresponsive , Neither a mouse nor a pendrive is working there now </3

    Yeah , I'll remember not to buy an Active PFC PSU :D, Thanks for the info ;)
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