New build 1300$ Gaming+3D+more

Old motherboard passed away (MSI), at age 4y. Beige sand was found. Maybe discuss this more in this thread, when the new build beneath has more than a skeleton to work with. It might be possible to restore. 

Budget range: 1300
Purchase date is end of next month.

No overclocking.
Sli or crossfire: maybe.

Parts Not Required: Keyboard, mouse, monitor, OS, speakers. Graphics card is special when I already own Amd Radeon HD6670. And HD4000 card is built in with the new stuff. Still undecided what to do with graphics.

New build is:
Define R3 computer case.
Atx 600W Coolermaster silent Pro Gold
Panther point h77 motherboard.
Ivy Bridge 3770.
I need some more clarity in the Dimm
memory area.

Websites for parts: Any place worthy of a good custom build. I can pretty much dig up components from anywhere.

Posts from any country is welcome! Constructive Pc comments appreciated :)
10 answers Last reply
More about build 1300 gaming more
  1. What country are you from? It changes the parts. I'll assume US for the below.

    ivy bridge isn't out yet so don't pick a mobo until then.

    For ram you want 8GB of DDR3 at 1600mhz. Preferably 1.5V. This kit is very good:

    That PSU is overkill, it's fine if you want it but you should save money on it and spend it on the GPU. This one is very good:
  2. Thanks for the Dimm RAM suggestion. I can get a pretty good price on the Coolermaster 600W Silent Pro Gold. The difference is about 39$ between those two Psu's. Its Sweden.
    40W less, Shipping vs no shipping required, no personal experience on that brand.
    Although I am not sure on how much power my system will require.

    I just read up on mobo, reviews at:
  3. there's nothing wrong with the CM one, Seasonic is a better brand though. But the CM seems to be a decent price, so go for it if you want. 500-600W is perfect for a single gpu setup.

    What online site do you use for computer parts usually in sweden? All my recommendations are partly based on prices which fluctuate from country to country.
  4. Yes the CM seem to be a good price. For a gold quality certificate.
    I want to make a good build that lasts.
    I haven't really decided on one store. I'm still looking around.

    PSU, is there an easy way to know how how much power you need?
  5. depends on your definition of easy.

    Look at the 12v amperage. That number times 12 gives you the max wattage on the 12v rail. Your CPU and GPU both use this rail, so the combined TDP of both must be lower than the 12v rail's max wattage. Unless you have a strict budget keep 20% or more headroom.

    Unless you have a massive raid array or huge WC setup, ignore the power usage of the other components, they're insignificant.

    The CM one has a 48A rail. 48x12 = 526W.
    i7-3770 has a tdp of 77W
    6670 has a tdp of 66W
    560ti has a tdp of 170W

    edit: multiple 12v rails are more complicated. On quality PSUs, you add the amperage of all the rails for the max 12v wattage. This can be misleading however since the rated wattage (the number that's part of the PSU name) is also a maximum.
    So a multi 12v rail PSU's maximum 12v wattage is either the combined rails or PSU's max wattage rating, whatever is lower.

    That is for quality PSUs only. If it isn't 80+ rated it isn't worth buying.
  6. +1 to slicedtoad

    for psu

    the single 12v rail if lesser the better.

    like the best is a single rail psu is far more better and efficient than a multi rail psu.

    for psu if you are in us ohh you are in sweden i gess

    corsair , seasonic , xfx , antec , pc power and cooling silver stone , cool master and ocz are really good companies.

    some of which are tier 1 and other are tier 2

    seasonic is the best psu manufucturer in the world

    corsair , antec , xfx and pc power and cooling silencer series are made my seasonic. so these all are tier 1.

    but the cx series of corsair is not made by seasonic and therefore not that good.

    whenever one goes to buy a psu the amps are as much important as much the watts are.

    like the gtx 680 needs 38 amps on 12 v rail.

    a 850 w psu is generally having 70-72 amps on the single rail designed psu.

    for that theoritically it shouldnt be enough but it is the max what it needs and it might needs when it is maxed out or 100% load.

    also psu are also catorized as


    a non modular psu is a psu which has all the cables and wires permanantly attached to it.

    if the mess is more it looks cluttered.


    it is a step above of non modular.

    every thing is attached to it but except the gpu power pins like 6pins and 8 pins.


    a fully modular psu is one where all the wires are detachable . these are found in only in high end psu but the efferts of ocz as put this luxary lines of psu in the cases of the common man . :sol:

    then comes the grade

    the psu is eather graded or not graded.

    buy only and only psu which as atleast 80+ grade.

    the grade is in the accending order

    80+ < 80+ bronze < silver < gold < platinum.

    one should not go to the platinumas these psu are very costly and will have very little gains.

    try to get atleast a 80+ bronze.

    for any more questions i happy to help

  7. ^some good info there but it needs some corrections.

    It's partly a myth about multi 12v rails. There is some truth to it, but if the psu is quality, a multi-rail design is perfectly acceptable. It is certainly not less efficient. I don't want to go into details, since it's complicated as hell and polluted with propaganda. But i can link sources if you really want.

    Add antec to your list. And while a list like that is usually fine, looking up individual reviews for each PSU is safer. Companies like Rosewill have some excellent PSUs but also some crap ones. Same with XFX.

    Measuring amps or watts amounts to the same thing at any given voltage. Amps x Volts = Watts

    add silver to your ratings.

    Platinum is used for silent PCs since they produce less heat.
  8. thanks for the corrections
  9. Good that you dealt with the single rail vs non-single rail. And the partial myth area. I was a bit worried about exactly that. Good conclusion.
  10. yeah, there is so much confusion about that going around right now. Even the definition of "multi-rail" differs from person to person (and possibly from psu to psu). One day i'll write up a detailed explanation with legit references and just link people to it.
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