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RAM issues; MemOk! worked once, but no more.

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April 13, 2012 6:28:06 PM

This original problem has been solved. There is still an issue, but it is not what is described in this post. It is described 15 or so posts below this one. Thank you!

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Hi everyone, this is my first post here! I've been reading articles for a while, but never really jumped over to the forum side until a few weeks ago and figured it was time to make an account since I had specific questions of my own.

Anyways, on to the point. My motherboard died on my older Gateway Desktop (as judged by a friend that works with Geek Squad), so I figured, "What the heck, I'll just build my own system." since I had at least some experience in replacing parts and partially tearing mine apart and rebuilding it. Now when i say "build" I already had a couple of aftermarket parts I would be carrying over, along with my HDD.

Well I thought I had done reasonably thorough research at the time of purchasing my parts. I made sure to match the CPU/Mobo (which apparently is a common mistake?) for compatibility, read a ton of reviews on each piece I purchased, bought the right type of RAM, and already had a video card and PSU (more on these coming up..). What I didn't consider was a case. I can't believe it didn't dawn on me to compare dimensions... But that's another issue! I have a case that fits my board now, lol.


Before I get into specific issues, here are the brand new parts I have...
- Case: Cooler Master Elite 430
- Mobo: ASUS M5A97
- RAM: 2GB x2 G.Skill Ripjaws (1333/10666)
- CPU: AMD Athlon II x3

And the carried over parts (all aftermarket except the HDD, like I said)...
- HDD: 7200rpm WD 640GB installed with Vista x64
- GPU: ATI Radeon HD 4850x1
- PSU: OCZ Mod X Stream 500W

Alright. Let me say that I feel like the PSU is the problem at this point. That's just a guess though, since I have no way of testing or swapping for a known good one.

The issue I'm having is that my system starts up, fans and lights all work, HDD spins and makes the exact same sounds it would make while it was going through the boot process (I'm accustomed to it after 4 years haha), but the display remains completely black. Obviously, I can't see if it's actually booting or not, but the HDD definitely sounds like it is (which is most likely irrelevant) although I can't see how it would be. On my graphics card, the little red light is on, but it was never like that in my old build. I know it's possible, but the likelihood of it dying between transferring builds is extremely low since there was no light on when it was in the old computer even after there was no booting. Is there not enough power flowing through the system? Before you say it, there is no on-board video to test with.

I'm also getting no beeps from my system when I try power it up. I have carefully read the mobo manual and double checked my system MULTIPLE times to make sure everything is connected correctly. The 8-pin and 24-pin plugs are in completely and correctly, as well as the 6-pin video card plug (have checked and rechecked ALL plugs and pins at least 10 times now). The processor is in correctly, as it only fits properly one way with the pin pattern used.

I got no system beeps under any on these circumstances:
- One stick of RAM (tried both sticks separately in multiple slots each)
- No RAM at all
- No video card plugged into power
- No video card plugged into power or VGA
- No video card plugged into anything at all (PCIe, power, or VGA)
- No HDD plugged in

Anyways, I know all about parts being DoA once in a while and it could be that. But let's assume all of the new parts work fine for now since I seriously have no way to test anything with my lack of parts I have no "known working" PSU, since mine is extremely suspect. I really don't think I'm up to test voltages or anything on the PSU either. I have virtually no experience with direct electricity and would rather have help sitting next to me if I have to deal with it for the first time.

Should I just replace my 500W for the 600W version? I really can't think of any other option at this point. I don't really mind spending the money since it's a new system anyways, but I thought the 500W would work so I kept it around. And, honestly, I don't even think it's faulty personally. I would wager more towards the fact that it's just too weak for this build (even though it's almost 150W above what was figured out to be needed).

Thanks in advance for any help. I will check back here later and hope to find my answer.

Edit: I forgot to mention I also tried clearing the CMOS, and it did not solve the problem.
April 13, 2012 6:41:23 PM

Before we move forward with actual testing, is your monitor plugged into the video card? I expect not, as you've used it before, but if you've got it plugged into the mobo then your problem's solved.
A decent 500W PSU, and OCZ is decent, is far more than enough for this build. Unless it's somehow suddenly gone bad, the PSU shouldn't be the issue. Does your Geek Squad friend have a build of his own?
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April 13, 2012 6:47:56 PM

Have you tried connecting the monitor to a different port on the graphics card? You system might only be outputting a video display through one port, unable to define the correct one on it's own. You may need to get an adapter to do this.
If no-go, then try the same things you've done with your graphics card your other pcie slot. If it works there, then you have a bad pcie slot.
I appreciate your thoroughness in your report on this matter. It helped a lot.
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April 13, 2012 7:25:51 PM

The electricity thing sounds more intimidating than it is.

If you change your mind about testing if the PSU is DOA, you can just disconnect it from all devices, take the big fat cable and a paper clip folded into a U and put one end in the single wire that is a different color (probably blue or green, there is only one of them that is different from all the others) and the other end in a black one.

If you were holding the paper clip with no leather work gloves on then electricity would enter your body when you did this, but the colorful line is very low voltage and very low AMPS so you wouldn't feel this level of wattage in you.

Anyway, if it didn't turn on, the PSU would definitely be DOA.

If you do that stuff and the result is that it is not DOA

OR

If you just skip doing the stuff above

then the next thing I would suggest would be to do the following things:
1) disconnect everything.
2) take everything out of the case
3) put everything on a wooden table
4) put the CPU + FAN and the RAM in the motherboard
5) plug the PSU twice into the motherboard
6) use some metal object like the previous paper clip or a flat screw driver and use it to touch both pins listed as PWR_BTN in the motherboard manual at the same time.

If you do this, you can rule out the case as being the source of the problem.

- Edit - Clarity
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April 13, 2012 7:41:25 PM

Does your monitor show anything, like "input digital or analog" or "color setting" when you turn it on? If you don't get any message, the monitor might be not working properly. If you have a laptop, try to connect it to the monitor if it works.

What port do you connect between monitor and PC? Try the motherboard port (either DVI or D-sub, whichever the monitor also has) by removing the graphics card. If this setup shows something on monitor, that means the graphics card or PCI connection has problem.
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April 14, 2012 1:32:20 AM

Kajabla:
As of now, my monitor is plugged into nothing except the wall and a Video Cord leading to nothing. I have been sure to actually plug that cord into the monitor AND video card at the same time though, yes.

And my friend does have his own custom build, but he is out of town until this coming Tuesday, and I don't exactly feel right disturbing him on his vacation. I suppose I could just take it in, but they might charge me if he's not working, so... :p 

Stingstang:
I did not actually think to try an HDMI cable, but I know I do not have a DVI cable to swap with my usual cord. In fact, I'm not 100% sure and I will check, I'm not sure my monitor has an HDMI port. It's from mid '08, so... But that will be the very next thing I check after I finish this reply!

MKBL:
When I turn the monitor on (regardless of the power and video card situation with the tower itself) is shows the Gateway logo and then just says "No signal!" with the RGB boxes underneath. This is what it does if you turn the monitor on without the computer itself being turned on under normal circumstances, but it does this in ANY situation now. Also, my motherboard has no video availability whatsoever without a standalone graphics card, so that's not really an option. Unless i'm misunderstanding you?

Raidinn:
For your steps 1-6, my case works as far as the built in fan, blue LED's, and power buttons. Before I tear apart my system completely again, am I misunderstanding, or would something else be wrong with the case?


Thanks a lot by the way you guys! Didn't expect so many responses so fast. :) 
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April 14, 2012 3:24:33 AM

start back to recheck every cable and components if they all well fix to the motherboard even the graphic card 6 pins power connector
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April 14, 2012 5:48:36 AM

I don't believe that's the issue, but I will check it out, thanks.

Also, my monitor doesn't have an HDMI port, but my TV does! I will give that a try right now and edit this post with (lack of?) results
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April 14, 2012 6:16:38 AM

Just set up my computer to my TV. Same situation as before; no video, no beeps.

However, my TV does not let you select the "HDMI1/DVI" source unless there is something plugged into it and being used. For instance, when my Xbox 360 is off, I cannot select the HDMI setting on my TV until I turn it on. I can select the HDMI setting currently with my rig powered up and plugged into the video card. Still getting the red light on my card and nothing on the screen once again. DVI option is not available, but I don't think it's necessary to test that anyways with the info we have thus far.

I also checked every cable. everything is plugged in tightly and to the right slots. I will double check that everything is actually in the right spots again also, since I don't really know what else to do at this point.
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April 14, 2012 1:05:56 PM

The next step is to move to testing with whatever parts you can find. You probably have friends willing to donate individual parts; see what you can get. A CPU or mobo would be great, as I've seen strange monitor recognition stuff related to CPU issues.
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April 14, 2012 2:24:47 PM

There are a lot of potential problems that can reveal themselves by doing what I suggested.

It may not sound like it will help, but it may help too. Or it may just be a complete waste of your time.

If you don't want to spend the time doing it, then don't worry about it.

Anyway, if you just do that stuff and plug in the video card it may work and I would try it if you aren't too busy.
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April 14, 2012 5:05:21 PM

2567573,6,1178758 said:
Kajabla:


MKBL:
When I turn the monitor on (regardless of the power and video card situation with the tower itself) is shows the Gateway logo and then just says "No signal!" with the RGB boxes underneath. This is what it does if you turn the monitor on without the computer itself being turned on under normal circumstances, but it does this in ANY situation now. Also, my motherboard has no video availability whatsoever without a standalone graphics card, so that's not really an option. Unless i'm misunderstanding you?

Most motherboards have basic display output. There must be at least D-sub port, or moreover plus DVI.

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April 14, 2012 5:30:40 PM

MKBL said:
2567573,6,1178758 said:
Kajabla:


MKBL:
When I turn the monitor on (regardless of the power and video card situation with the tower itself) is shows the Gateway logo and then just says "No signal!" with the RGB boxes underneath. This is what it does if you turn the monitor on without the computer itself being turned on under normal circumstances, but it does this in ANY situation now. Also, my motherboard has no video availability whatsoever without a standalone graphics card, so that's not really an option. Unless i'm misunderstanding you?

Most motherboards have basic display output. There must be at least D-sub port, or moreover plus DVI.
said:


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

That's my board. Unless that s/pdif output has a function I don't know about, or there are USB controlled monitors, I absolutely cannot find a video option :S

Raiddinn said:
There are a lot of potential problems that can reveal themselves by doing what I suggested.

It may not sound like it will help, but it may help too. Or it may just be a complete waste of your time.

If you don't want to spend the time doing it, then don't worry about it.

Anyway, if you just do that stuff and plug in the video card it may work and I would try it if you aren't too busy.


I suppose I will give this a try. What is it that's "supposed" to happen? Will the psu and everything else turn on with the touching/connecting of the pins? I will also do my best to find out what to do to test the psu the way you mentioned in your first post.

kajabla said:
The next step is to move to testing with whatever parts you can find. You probably have friends willing to donate individual parts; see what you can get. A CPU or mobo would be great, as I've seen strange monitor recognition stuff related to CPU issues.


I actually have a spare computer here now, but it's an old piece of crap lol. Few issues with her computer:
- My video card physically doesn't fit on the motherboard. The USB ports are in the way because I would need to cover two slots.
- The Processor is incompatible with my motherboard.
- I tried my psu in her system before I even took my old one into Best Buy, and it turned on, buth her onboard video took a poop and has been that way for a long time (which is why I have it in the first place; I was going to swap in my video card to see if it solved her problem but it doesn't fit).

The only person I know who has a custom build, and therefore a sufficient PSU, would be the guy who works with Geek Squad. But as I said, he isn't available until the middle of next week.

Edit: As for parts I actually have my old computer too. But again, motherboard is fried, processor isn't compatible, and the HDD, DVD-RW, video card, and PSU all were carried over to the new system with the new mobo, processor, RAM, and case.

But I will go and try what Raidinn suggested right now, and report back with whatever I have happen.

Thank you again everyone!
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April 14, 2012 5:43:40 PM

Hi. All indications are that it is posting and loading things and the problem is graphics related. There have been some good suggestions relating to that. Make sure that you video card is firmly seated in the slot. I am not sure of your Monitor, but some momitors do have switch for VGA/ DVI input and it must be set to whatever input your using. My take is that you are using VGA as you said you had no DVI cable, so it would have to be set to VGA.
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April 14, 2012 6:02:05 PM

coastie65 said:
Hi. All indications are that it is posting and loading things and the problem is graphics related. There have been some good suggestions relating to that. Make sure that you video card is firmly seated in the slot. I am not sure of your Monitor, but some momitors do have switch for VGA/ DVI input and it must be set to whatever input your using. My take is that you are using VGA as you said you had no DVI cable, so it would have to be set to VGA.


I was just clearing off my desk again to tear my computer apart, but this is worth checking quick I guess. Thank you for the input!
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April 14, 2012 6:05:10 PM

MKBL said:
If you have a laptop, try to connect it to the monitor if it works.


I'm sorry, I must have missed this sentence before... But I did try this already and the stand-alone monitor worked fine through my laptop output.
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April 14, 2012 7:00:41 PM








In the second picture, that light is on even though it's hard to tell. It's the D1601 light that signifies Overheating, but obviously the card is not hot whatsoever since it's pretty much not being used. It does that in either PCIe slot.

The fans and whatever couple of lights are left (motherboard and Graphics card) still work under these circumstances though. Other than the fact that there's no HDD, everything is exactly the same. It has to be either a fried video card or a PSU not giving out enough power to the card. Also, still no beeps at all. Even without anything plugged in but the processor.

This determines that the case and HDD are not the issues, correct?
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April 14, 2012 7:38:34 PM

*sigh* red light on vid card is off once again when I switch to my dead mobo. Still getting no boot, post, or picture obviously through this board though.

so am I right in assuming that either there isn't enough power for the new build and I need a new PSU, or that there is a problem with the new ASUS board itself?
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April 14, 2012 9:02:37 PM

When you put the metal object on the two PWR_BTN pins at the same time it turns the computer on.

If everything is outside the case just like it would be inside the case and it works, then the problem is obviously a physical one.

It could be that something wasn't seated well in the case and the act of taking it out forced you to reseat that thing or it could be something else.

This action is pretty multi-functional in that way.

In regards to not having any beeps, if the speaker is connected correctly to the audio ports on the motherboard and the PSU is plugged into the motherboard, then there should be some sort of sound coming out of it unless one or the other is broken.

If you are sure that it is plugged in right, it may very well be the motherboard having a problem because the little speaker is not a complicated component and it is kinda hard to screw it up manufacturing wise. At least in relation to motherboards.

If the PSU was too small for the PC, it would likely manifest by the computer turning itself right back off. PSU problems can manifest in a large amount of different ways, but showing no video is not a common one.

The most common reasons for lack of video are that something just isn't connected right or that the video card or the motherboard isn't working.

If you can take the video card out and turn the computer on and not get any beeps, it is more likely a motherboard problem than anything else.

It is nice to have another motherboard laying around to test stuff like these, but obviously it isn't always possible.

You may have to bite the bullet and buy a new motherboard if you don't want to wait around for your buddy to get back. That wouldn't be guaranteed to fix the problem, it would just be the next logical troubleshooting step.
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April 14, 2012 10:37:03 PM

Oh man, I'm so ready to just start throwing money at it until it works... lol. This is really frustrating! D:

But yes, the entire system is running on top of my desk minus the cd/dvd drive.

I suppose I'll be RMAing the board this week.
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April 15, 2012 12:39:33 AM

Let us know how that works out.
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April 15, 2012 1:36:13 AM

Raiddinn said:
Let us know how that works out.


I will for sure. I'm going to try and get my hands on a stronger PSU as well, but I'm not too sure that will happen (or if it would help anyways).
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April 15, 2012 5:51:58 AM

scout_03 said:
graphic card specs on amd recommend a 500 watts psu also the card have 2 dvi output did you try the monitor on the other output from amd http://www.amd.com/us/products/desktop/graphics/ati-rad...


I tried an HDMI connection with no luck. Red light was still on as it had been before that. I don't have access to the white plug-in.

Edit:


Quote:
Just set up my computer to my TV. Same situation as before; no video, no beeps.

However, my TV does not let you select the "HDMI1/DVI" source unless there is something plugged into it and being used. For instance, when my Xbox 360 is off, I cannot select the HDMI setting on my TV until I turn it on. I can select the HDMI setting currently with my rig powered up and plugged into the video card. Still getting the red light on my card and nothing on the screen once again. DVI option is not available, but I don't think it's necessary to test that anyways with the info we have thus far.


This was my result when testing the HDMI port from graphics card to television. I know the cord is good and tv works. I have my laptop using the same HDMI cord and TV hook-up as I type this reply.
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April 17, 2012 12:19:51 AM

Got a hold of another PSU. Same line as mine, but the 600W version.

I was right about the PSU being the biggest issue! Now everything is starting up (Video Card doesn't have the red light), but the MomOK! switch isn't working because apparently I thought my RAM was compatible but I looked again and it's not.

I got it to work and went into BIOS a couple times, but then I rearranged all of my cords and everything into how I will actually have the computer setup when it is finally finished. Since I've had it set up this way, I cannot get into BIOS and there is constant restarting.

So my old problem is solved! I get system beeps now, no more red light on the video card, and the LED's and fans are all still working properly (as they seemed to be before.

The new issue is that I'm not getting to the POST now. It's obviously a memory issue, because the red memory LED is going crazy. I took both sticks out and got the correct system beeps for no memory. I have swapped the sticks between the ports. I got the MemOK! workaround to work for just a couple start-ups. But I never actually went through with a full boot; I restarted from BIOS and then flipped the power switch after it stopped getting even to BIOS.

You guys have anything for this? I will adjust the thread title accordingly soon, but I will keep it like this just so people who have followed the thread know about the change.

Thank you, everyone!
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Best solution

April 17, 2012 1:03:59 AM

For every connection there is 2 sides. RAM errors could be from either the RAM or the motherboard. So your motherboard isn't off the hook.

Did you try each stick in each possible port and none of them allow the computer to work correctly?
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April 17, 2012 1:33:09 AM

Raiddinn said:
For every connection there is 2 sides. RAM errors could be from either the RAM or the motherboard. So your motherboard isn't off the hook.

Did you try each stick in each possible port and none of them allow the computer to work correctly?



I tried putting both in the A ports, both in the B ports, both in the 1 slots, and both in the 2 slots. The way they are configured now, both in the 2 slots, are the way they were when I got the computer working.

I'll run through the combinations again. Mainly because I didn't think to try one stick at a time for some reason. Be back in a few minutes!

Edit: Also, in the Motherboard's defense, this RAM is NOT on the QVL. Like I said, it worked for 2-3 startups and resets after doing a MemOk! once, but then mystically stopped working after that and I haven't been able to get anything on the screen since then.
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April 17, 2012 2:29:39 AM

Tried every possible combination of the two RAM sticks in each slot.

I tried replicating every aspect of when the system worked. When I got into the BIOS, there was a CPU Fan error waiting for me, and the fan was spinning at a high RPM (just over 3000, according to the BIOS). I shut the system down and I looked again and realized I plugged that fan into the wrong slot, which I honestly didn't know made a difference. Ever since then, the Memory has been producing this issue.

there were no USB devices plugged into the computer until I saw got into the BIOS. Then I only plugged in the keyboard. I have tried running Memok! under every combination of USB devices (mouse/keyboard), and graphics card attached or detached. No success.

So close... :( 
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April 17, 2012 3:46:57 AM

scout_03 said:
did you try both stick in blue slot as says in motherboard manual if that do not work could you try another memory stick from a friend adding this those are memory recommend by g-skill for your motherboard http://www.gskill.com/configurator2.php?pid=2&model=148... compare with the one you got


Yes, both blue slots is how I had it set up originally and that was how it worked. I tried every combination of RAM and slot after that seized to work, but to no avail.

To borrow any DDR3 I'd have to wait until Wednesday afternoon. And I'm not even sure it'd be a stick that on my QVL anyways.

The thing that's killing me here is that it worked... and then it just didn't. Are there any theories on that at all? Currently, my system is set up exactly how it was when I made it to BIOS. But I'm not having the same result.
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April 17, 2012 4:49:33 PM

Just RMA'd the RAM today. It just isn't going to work...

I ended up with http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... but that is subject to upgrade. I know Corsair is a great brand, but I rather would have had a different series or stuck to G.Skill that I'm accustomed to. I'll work on that in the future. For now though I just want this damn thing to work... Lol.

I'll let everyone know what happens when I get the sticks in a couple of days. Thankfully I shouldn't have to wait through another weekend for it! Haha
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April 17, 2012 8:22:30 PM

will be around if you need more help
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April 17, 2012 8:59:20 PM

scout_03 said:
will be around if you need more help



Thank you very much! I should hopefully be done this time, but you never know! Regardless of the outcome, I will post back with an update when the RAM arrives!
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April 18, 2012 12:47:59 AM

Actually, the XMS RAM is Corsair's worst model line. Their failure rates are like 7% on XMS. That is the highest of any model line of any of the major manufacturers.

Crucial and Kingston are the RAM makers with the absolute lowest failure rates.

I would have probably gotten 1x 4GBs too, because there is only half the sticks that can fail in a set of 1 vs a set of 2. It makes it easier to upgrade later too.

Anyway, its too late for all that to matter, I just wanted to mention that stuff so you might think about it next time.
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April 18, 2012 5:01:55 AM

Raiddinn said:
Actually, the XMS RAM is Corsair's worst model line. Their failure rates are like 7% on XMS. That is the highest of any model line of any of the major manufacturers.

Crucial and Kingston are the RAM makers with the absolute lowest failure rates.

I would have probably gotten 1x 4GBs too, because there is only half the sticks that can fail in a set of 1 vs a set of 2. It makes it easier to upgrade later too.

Anyway, its too late for all that to matter, I just wanted to mention that stuff so you might think about it next time.



Honestly, I'll probably return and replace it within the 30 day window. It was just the only QVL list compatible model left that I could afford without getting my refund for the RAM I already had.

And I'm actually surprised to hear that about Kingston. I've always been told to avoid them, because they're memory is trash. The only time I've ever bought anything from them it failed within 6 months (laptop RAM), and I just started buying G.Skill instead.

But I plan to get something for the other two slots, and then send this back ASAP. I usually don't abuse the system like this, but I'm frustrated as all hell at this point, so screw them :p 
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April 18, 2012 12:40:34 PM

Crucial is my favorite by far between the two, but I do have to admit that they are pretty much tied for quality. The others are pretty far behind.

I can understand the frustration, especially with the conflicting information since I am apparently contradicting some other person or person's voicing my support for Kingston.

If you want, I can point to some raw data that backs up that claim.

Or, you could just get Crucial instead.

The 1x 4GBs part number CT51264BA1339 is a really good stick of RAM with practically zero failure rate in the field. There is a 2x package of the same stick with part number CT2KIT51264BA1339 as well.

I have suggested that RAM to people hundreds of times and not one person who got it (myself included, I have it) ever had even the tiniest RAM related problem in their computers.

As far as I am concerned there isn't a better stick (or set of sticks) on the market.
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April 19, 2012 11:39:59 PM

Raiddinn said:
Crucial is my favorite by far between the two, but I do have to admit that they are pretty much tied for quality. The others are pretty far behind.

I can understand the frustration, especially with the conflicting information since I am apparently contradicting some other person or person's voicing my support for Kingston.

If you want, I can point to some raw data that backs up that claim.

Or, you could just get Crucial instead.

The 1x 4GBs part number CT51264BA1339 is a really good stick of RAM with practically zero failure rate in the field. There is a 2x package of the same stick with part number CT2KIT51264BA1339 as well.

I have suggested that RAM to people hundreds of times and not one person who got it (myself included, I have it) ever had even the tiniest RAM related problem in their computers.

As far as I am concerned there isn't a better stick (or set of sticks) on the market.


It's gotta be the motherboard... Son of a b***h. I'm infuriated. :fou: 

I don't understand why it would work three times, and then MemOk! just stops working. And this RAM is compatible too, granted the failure rate you stated earlier, but it's doing the same thing it did with the sticks that worked for just a few startups.

Gonna try a few things, and then take it to Best Buy to confirm it's the motherboard before I send that back and get taggeda $400 restocking fee for a part that is going to the trash lol. I'm so, so frustrated at this point that it's ridiculous. I wish there was just ONE specific computer components store in my city or a surrounding one. :( 
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April 20, 2012 3:58:45 PM

why you dont rma the board directly to asus
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April 20, 2012 4:05:42 PM

scout_03 said:
why you dont rma the board directly to asus


Will they be able to do an advanced RMA, or do you know the answer to that? Lol. If not, I can probably figure it out through the phone.

The reason I was going to do it through Newegg was because I know that I get free shipping in both directions through the Shoprunner trial I started (and need to cancel before May 5th!) and not paying to ship is a huge plus. However, if I can get ASUS to advance RMA the part I would be willing to pay the return shipping.
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April 20, 2012 5:51:50 PM

I made a couple of phone calls and Newegg offered to Advance RMA it over the phone. I called ASUS, got a reference number, and it worked out getting it shipped through Newegg.

It's so nice that I don't have to wait a week before it's even processed!
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April 21, 2012 4:56:02 PM

come back when you get new board if you need more help
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April 21, 2012 11:12:33 PM

I absolutely will! I'll be back either way just to let you guys know if it works out or not!
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April 24, 2012 6:24:31 PM

Now I'm getting constant blue screens whenever I try to start Windows. Everything is working up to booting the OS.

? :( 
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April 24, 2012 6:25:04 PM

Also have tried all combinations of all 4 sticks of RAM that I have.
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April 24, 2012 7:21:31 PM

If you replace the motherboard, you often have to reinstall windows or else you get constant blue screens.

That might be what you are experiencing now. You could try reinstalling Windows and see if that makes a difference.

Assuming you didn't install Windows after you got the new motherboard.
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April 25, 2012 4:45:27 AM

Raiddinn said:
If you replace the motherboard, you often have to reinstall windows or else you get constant blue screens.

That might be what you are experiencing now. You could try reinstalling Windows and see if that makes a difference.

Assuming you didn't install Windows after you got the new motherboard.


Gross. Thank God for online clouds I guess!

I will try this and let you know what happens.
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April 25, 2012 5:00:00 AM

Wait, can I not use the same partition as I used with my old motherboard? Do I need a physical disc to install it from now?

I've done a complete factory format from my partition before, but I absolutely cannot find out how to do it this time. F8 brings up the boot menu (which disk to boot from), or just brings me into BIOS if I select "advanced settings", while F10 and F12 do nothing.
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!