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First build

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April 24, 2012 2:29:55 PM

im planning on putting a new desktop together and just wanted to make sure i have everything and make sure it all fits this is my first time building so any advice helps..

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... - SSD for OS

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... - HDD for everything else

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... - Optical drive

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... - extra fan

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... - tower

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... - MoBo

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... - Vid card

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... - Power supply

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... - Processor

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... - RAM


i just wanna know if everything is better than average and if its gonna be compatible with everything idc if theres something a lot cheaper and little less better im looking for speed and performance just lemme know if i need anything else (coords, etc.) and just make sure everything is gonna fit fine. TY =]

and im going to be using my tv (http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=Panasonic+TC+-...(FullHD)&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US: official&client=firefox-a&um=1&hl=en&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.r_qf.,cf.osb&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=16351292330495967444&sa=X&ei=cLiWT8mnKKT40gG17OWeDg&ved=0CHQQ8wIwAA) as my monitor if that counts for anything..

More about : build

April 24, 2012 4:46:52 PM

The 10000 RPM Hard drive is a premium product. Do you really need such a fast hard drive when you already have an SSD boot drive? How about get a higher Capacity Caviar Black or spend the difference on a larger boot SSD (128GB).

Why are you picking up a e-ATX motherboard? It is meant for 3 way SLI. You have only one video card and a 650 Watt power supply, so I assume you do not plan to go 3 way sli or add a whole bunch of add-in cards. Pick up a ASUS P8Z68 Pro Instead. Better for OC'ing your processor and lot cheaper.

Get the 2500k instead of the 2700k, it is $100 cheaper, and you can OC it to nearly the same performance. The only exception to this is if you multitask like crazy (Run photoshop, watch HD movies, convert audio/video at the same time), in which case Hyper Threading would be important and you should get the 2600k.

For the Graphics card, I would need to know more about what you intend to do with this PC. If your plan is to play the latest games at 1980x1080 at good details, then dont bother with the 570 GTX. Get the 680 GTX. Unless you are in a hurry to build the system and cant wait till it becomes available. On the other hand, if you are connecting this to your tv to mainly watch movies etc, then this graphics card is overkill and get something much cheaper, like a 6850.

You can save money on the case. The Cool Master HAF 912 has a similar design to the one you picked, but costs only ~$60.

Nice pick with the Ram and PSU, both good products!







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April 24, 2012 5:11:14 PM

Quote:
The 10000 RPM Hard drive is a premium product. Do you really need such a fast hard drive when you already have an SSD boot drive? How about get a higher Capacity Caviar Black or spend the difference on a larger boot SSD (128GB).


Not only that - *ANY* premium storage product like the Velociraptor HDs or the OCZ Revodrive - you trade speed for space and it's really not that much of a difference, not to mention that you pay ridiculous premiums on them and the products are far more likely to fail on you. They're just storage gimmicks and not worth what the manufacturers are asking for them. Especially since you're not going to notice any sort of performance gain from such devices.

Quote:
Why are you picking up a e-ATX motherboard? It is meant for 3 way SLI. You have only one video card and a 650 Watt power supply, so I assume you do not plan to go 3 way sli or add a whole bunch of add-in cards. Pick up a ASUS P8Z68 Pro Instead. Better for OC'ing your processor and lot cheaper.


I agree that the motherboard is definitely overkill.

I'd personally scrap that whole build - you're spending way too much in some areas for outdated equipment (storage, motherboard) that aren't as important when they should be spent on areas that are far more important (PSU, GPU). The extra case fan isn't needed either.

Try this for the same price:

Case: Corsair Carbide 500R - $139.99
PSU: PC Power & Cooling Silencer MKII 950W - $149.99
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H - $189.99
CPU: 3.30GHz Intel Core i5-2500K - $219.99
Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo - $34.99
RAM: Mushkin Enhanced Silverline 8GB 1333MHz 1.5V - $42.99
SSD: 128GB Crucial M4 - $159.99
HD: 1TB Western Digital Caviar Black - $139.99
Optical: LG Black Super Multi BD-R Burner - $79.99
Video Card: EVGA Geforce GTX 680 - $499.99 - *OR* Sapphire Radeon HD 7970 - $459.99

Total: $1,757.89 (with 680), $1,707.89 (with 7970)

Add your peripherals of choice and you're good to go.
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April 24, 2012 5:17:38 PM

Totally agree with g-unit that this build requires some changes. But in order to help you, we need to know more about what you are going to use this for, and what your budget is. Look at the sticky post at the top of the new build forum, and give us the information in the standardized format.

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April 24, 2012 5:23:21 PM

kulladoctor said:
Totally agree with g-unit that this build requires some changes. But in order to help you, we need to know more about what you are going to use this for, and what your budget is. Look at the sticky post at the top of the new build forum, and give us the information in the standardized format.


Judging from the use of the P67 FTW board and that OP plans to hook up to an LED TV that I'm guessing it's a gaming machine.
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April 25, 2012 1:09:19 PM

budget, well didnt really set one for my self def under 2g tho i want a system that can run emulators smooth and clean
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April 25, 2012 1:20:57 PM

i dont want something thats gonna b a hundred dollars cheaper thats gonna run almost as good i want speed i hate slow computers and the ssd is strictly for booting up. i wanted a premium hdd for speed like i said i hate slowness when i click on something i dont wanna wait for it load i dont mind sacrificing space for speed so as long as its a good reliable piece ill stick raptor less theres something better. its also gonna b doing a lot of downloading and internet browsing prolly watching movies to so pretty much media,gaming,internet browsing and everything in between. oh and i love hd audio and video!!!! so those are a must!!
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April 25, 2012 4:34:12 PM

For those needs, g-unit's build is perfect. Though I would add an good sound card since you mention that you like good Audio. I dont know much about Sound cards but the 3 companies to compare are Creative XFI and Recon, Asus Zonar and HT Omega. If you wish to connect your computer to a home theater system (not computer speakers or TV speakers), you would want a good amp to go with the sound card.

What gaming are you going to do? Latest games with the best graphics at highest settings or mostly emulators and older games? If its the later, you could cut down on the video card.
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April 25, 2012 4:44:29 PM

kulladoctor said:
For those needs, g-unit's build is perfect. Though I would add an good sound card since you mention that you like good Audio. I dont know much about Sound cards but the 3 companies to compare are Creative XFI and Recon, Asus Zonar and HT Omega. If you wish to connect your computer to a home theater system (not computer speakers or TV speakers), you would want a good amp to go with the sound card.

What gaming are you going to do? Latest games with the best graphics at highest settings or mostly emulators and older games? If its the later, you could cut down on the video card.


To be honest I haven't needed a sound card in like years - all I've ever used is the onboard audio and that's worked fine for what I need it to do.

Quote:
i dont want something thats gonna b a hundred dollars cheaper thats gonna run almost as good i want speed i hate slow computers and the ssd is strictly for booting up.


Are you talking about the motherboard? Sure EVGA's FTW series are quality products but the P67 isn't what it used to be - the Z77 is newer and will allow you to install newer CPUs and video cards to ensure longevity of your system. EVGA makes a Z77 FTW board but it's ridiculously expensive and I'd rather put that money in the GPU - that's where you'll notice the most difference on any build and it can often make or break the performance of said build.

Quote:
i wanted a premium hdd for speed like i said i hate slowness when i click on something i dont wanna wait for it load i dont mind sacrificing space for speed so as long as its a good reliable piece ill stick raptor less theres something better.


The Raptor is *NOT* better than a quality SSD / HD combo - you do not want to sacrifice space for speed and even then you'll never notice the difference between 5900 RPM - 7200 RPM - 10000 RPM as a secondary hard drive. Anyone who says otherwise doesn't know what they're talking about. I've used tons of different storage combinations and this is the one that I've found to work the best. Don't fall for expensive storage gimmicks that are far more likely to fail on you than the fail safe strong SSD/HD combo - like the Raptor or Revo Drive, and if you do, don't say I didn't warn you.

Quote:
its also gonna b doing a lot of downloading and internet browsing prolly watching movies to so pretty much media,gaming,internet browsing and everything in between. oh and i love hd audio and video!!!!


This computer will handle all of that and then some. You definitely want a 2 - 3TB hard drive and not a Raptor if you're going to be downloading and streaming a lot of HD audio and video. I don't recommend junk brands - and there's plenty out there - or cut corners on builds to get hardware that isn't suited - that's my philosophy. I try to balance it out across all the key areas - motherboard & CPU, storage, video card, PSU, case, cooling. Nothing more, nothing less.
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April 26, 2012 3:39:56 PM

g-unit1111 said:
Quote:
The 10000 RPM Hard drive is a premium product. Do you really need such a fast hard drive when you already have an SSD boot drive? How about get a higher Capacity Caviar Black or spend the difference on a larger boot SSD (128GB).


Not only that - *ANY* premium storage product like the Velociraptor HDs or the OCZ Revodrive - you trade speed for space and it's really not that much of a difference, not to mention that you pay ridiculous premiums on them and the products are far more likely to fail on you. They're just storage gimmicks and not worth what the manufacturers are asking for them. Especially since you're not going to notice any sort of performance gain from such devices.

Quote:
Why are you picking up a e-ATX motherboard? It is meant for 3 way SLI. You have only one video card and a 650 Watt power supply, so I assume you do not plan to go 3 way sli or add a whole bunch of add-in cards. Pick up a ASUS P8Z68 Pro Instead. Better for OC'ing your processor and lot cheaper.


I agree that the motherboard is definitely overkill.

I'd personally scrap that whole build - you're spending way too much in some areas for outdated equipment (storage, motherboard) that aren't as important when they should be spent on areas that are far more important (PSU, GPU). The extra case fan isn't needed either.

Try this for the same price:

Case: Corsair Carbide 500R - $139.99
PSU: PC Power & Cooling Silencer MKII 950W - $149.99
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H - $189.99
CPU: 3.30GHz Intel Core i5-2500K - $219.99
Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo - $34.99
RAM: Mushkin Enhanced Silverline 8GB 1333MHz 1.5V - $42.99
SSD: 128GB Crucial M4 - $159.99
HD: 1TB Western Digital Caviar Black - $139.99
Optical: LG Black Super Multi BD-R Burner - $79.99
Video Card: EVGA Geforce GTX 680 - $499.99 - *OR* Sapphire Radeon HD 7970 - $459.99

Total: $1,757.89 (with 680), $1,707.89 (with 7970)

Add your peripherals of choice and you're good to go.


i love the build its f'in sweet but is the i7 2700k not worth the extra hundred dollars maybe even the 2600k?

and ssd is high i dont really need that much space if the ssd im only installing the OS on it i just want the best reads so it starts fast and would doubling the RAM you picked make a big difference at all? and wat makes this RAM better than the rip jaws i had picked up? j/w
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April 26, 2012 4:04:58 PM

kulladoctor said:
For those needs, g-unit's build is perfect. Though I would add an good sound card since you mention that you like good Audio. I dont know much about Sound cards but the 3 companies to compare are Creative XFI and Recon, Asus Zonar and HT Omega. If you wish to connect your computer to a home theater system (not computer speakers or TV speakers), you would want a good amp to go with the sound card.

What gaming are you going to do? Latest games with the best graphics at highest settings or mostly emulators and older games? If its the later, you could cut down on the video card.


definitely gonna b using a 360 so the higher the graphics card the better and also im goin old school with super nintendo and all the systems in between.

and i kno absolute dick about sound cards as well so if anybody could help me i dont hav but i plan on gettin a 7.1 surround sound some day and im def an audiophile i love HD sound!!
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April 26, 2012 5:14:09 PM

Quote:
i love the build its f'in sweet but is the i7 2700k not worth the extra hundred dollars maybe even the 2600k?


If the primary use is going to be as a gaming / multimedia system - no. That money is better spent elsewhere - especially on the GPU. If you're going to be using CS5 or anything that requires hyperthreading then the 2600K would be worth the cost difference - but where you'll notice the most performance difference with any build is on the GPU - not the CPU. You want the single strongest GPU you can get for your budget.

Quote:
and ssd is high i dont really need that much space if the ssd im only installing the OS on it i just want the best reads so it starts fast and would doubling the RAM you picked make a big difference at all? and wat makes this RAM better than the rip jaws i had picked up? j/w


Even if you're using a 64GB as your boot drive it will fill up quickly and then you'll lose a lot of Windows functionality. I have the 64GB M4 - I wish I had got the 128GB but it's still plenty especially if you're going to be using a 2 - 3 TB hard drive for your secondary.

As far as the RAM goes - that also depends on what you're going to be using it for. If it's gaming no - if it's RAM hungry programs like CS5, then yes. RAM brands - they all pretty much come off the same assembly line so take your pick. Just watch the tall heat sinks if you're going to be using a D14. As far as speeds go you'll never notice the difference between 1333 - 1600 - 1866+ - because by default your motherboard runs the lowest speeds and timings it can handle. You can set your RAM multiplier to run at stock speeds but don't go higher than that or risk frying your motherboard. Intel actually recommends you run between 1333 - 1600 and not higher or your warranty will be voided.

Quote:
and i kno absolute dick about sound cards as well so if anybody could help me i dont hav but i plan on gettin a 7.1 surround sound some day and im def an audiophile i love HD sound!!


I personally wouldn't invest in a sound card - most motherboards now with onboard audio can handle up to 7.1 channel with no problems - I've hooked my PC up to my parents' 7.1 channel setup and I haven't noticed any difference between having a sound card and not having one.
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April 26, 2012 6:24:51 PM

If the primary use is going to be as a gaming / multimedia system - no. That money is better spent elsewhere - especially on the GPU. If you're going to be using CS5 or anything that requires hyperthreading then the 2600K would be worth the cost difference - but where you'll notice the most performance difference with any build is on the GPU - not the CPU. You want the single strongest GPU you can get for your budget.

well i think hyperthreading would really help since i like to run a lot of things all the time so ima go w/ the 2600k

As far as the RAM goes - that also depends on what you're going to be using it for. If it's gaming no - if it's RAM hungry programs like CS5, then yes. RAM brands - they all pretty much come off the same assembly line so take your pick. Just watch the tall heat sinks if you're going to be using a D14. As far as speeds go you'll never notice the difference between 1333 - 1600 - 1866+ - because by default your motherboard runs the lowest speeds and timings it can handle. You can set your RAM multiplier to run at stock speeds but don't go higher than that or risk frying your motherboard. Intel actually recommends you run between 1333 - 1600 and not higher or your warranty will be voided.

ok so wat if i keep thew mushiskin for the game and get 2 x 4 gb RAM for other stuff (just cuz i love maximum performance on everything)

I personally wouldn't invest in a sound card - most motherboards now with onboard audio can handle up to 7.1 channel with no problems - I've hooked my PC up to my parents' 7.1 channel setup and I haven't noticed any difference between having a sound card and not having one.[/quotemsg]

how can i tell if my motherboards sound is good or not?
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April 26, 2012 6:57:30 PM

Quote:
well i think hyperthreading would really help since i like to run a lot of things all the time so ima go w/ the 2600k


Again - that depends what you run. If you're using multimedia apps like CS5 then the 2600K would be needed but if not the 2500K will handle everything you need fine.

Quote:
ok so wat if i keep thew mushiskin for the game and get 2 x 4 gb RAM for other stuff (just cuz i love maximum performance on everything)


All your RAM modules have to be the same because of timing and voltage issues. They don't necessarily have to be from the same manufacturer as long as the voltage and timing settings are the same - these will be listed on the back of your modules.

Quote:
how can i tell if my motherboards sound is good or not?


Hard to say actually - most motherboards have the same sound controllers anymore, you won't know how it sounds until you get your build up and running.
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April 26, 2012 7:11:06 PM

Quote:
All your RAM modules have to be the same because of timing and voltage issues. They don't necessarily have to be from the same manufacturer as long as the voltage and timing settings are the same - these will be listed on the back of your modules.


ok timing n voltage the have to be the same but how will i know the difference between the gaming RAM and heavy duty RAM for the hogs?
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April 26, 2012 7:15:02 PM

mrjones15 said:
Quote:
All your RAM modules have to be the same because of timing and voltage issues. They don't necessarily have to be from the same manufacturer as long as the voltage and timing settings are the same - these will be listed on the back of your modules.


ok timing n voltage the have to be the same but how will i know the difference between the gaming RAM and heavy duty RAM for the hogs?


They're just labels - that's all. It's marketing BS. All RAM is pretty much the same except for server RAM which uses error correction (ECC). But most regular motherboards won't accept server RAM so you don't need to worry about that.
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April 26, 2012 11:55:22 PM

well can the motherboard you chose support ecc and is it worth the extra buck?
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April 27, 2012 12:00:21 AM

ECC is no longer needed. With DDR3 came more reliability.
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April 27, 2012 4:16:07 AM

No.
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April 27, 2012 11:52:41 AM

g-unit1111 said:
I wouldn't waste the money to get a motherboard with a built-in wifi module - that's a solid board itself, but just get a cheapo $10 - $20 Wifi adapter.


ok i dont want a cheap wifi if its gonna slow down my pc that kinda depletes the purpose of this build
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April 27, 2012 4:11:21 PM

mrjones15 said:
ok i dont want a cheap wifi if its gonna slow down my pc that kinda depletes the purpose of this build


It won't - all I have ever used are cheap wifi adapters, that won't make any sort of difference in how your build performs.
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April 27, 2012 4:27:37 PM

g-unit1111 said:
It won't - all I have ever used are cheap wifi adapters, that won't make any sort of difference in how your build performs.


thax a lot i really appreciate all the help from everybody :D 
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April 29, 2012 5:50:48 PM



Good choice for a motherboard but you will not use 32GB of RAM unless you're doing some high end video editing or working with programs that require large files to be opened - if you're using your PC for those purposes get 32GB of RAM. But otherwise I wouldn't recommend anything above 16GB. Put that money in the GPU, not the RAM.
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April 30, 2012 4:03:38 PM

mrjones15 said:
ok i think i found wat i want...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

yes or no? looks killer to me but will it work with the selected mobo

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...


I wouldn't spend that much on RAM - and you really want to watch the tall heat sinks if you are going to be working with an aftermarket cooler like a D14 - that won't be good for installing it. If you want 16GB of RAM - go for something like 2 of these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
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April 30, 2012 4:35:44 PM

mrjones15 said:
yea i know it was a bit pricey but i want SPEED is there anything faster than those kingstons
like one of these http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
the heatsinks aren't that big but idk thats y im asking


The Kingston's are actually the same speed as the ones you picked. The thing about RAM speeds is that they're just kind of there - your motherboard by default will run the lowest speeds and timing settings it can handle - so you will never notice the difference between 1333 - 1600 - 1866+. You can run your RAM at stock speeds with a few clicks in the BIOS but don't go over or you'll risk frying the RAM and potentially your motherboard. Yeah the heat sinks on the Corsair RAM are why I don't recommend them - I generally like Kingston and Crucial because they've been around forever and have some of the lowest fail rates on the market.
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April 30, 2012 4:42:17 PM

well i was really leaning towards those corsairs they seem better for the extra $2 but if u really dont think they would fit then ill stick w/ kingstons
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April 30, 2012 4:52:31 PM

The Corsair Vengence Ram modules come in low profile flavors. Those should fit.
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April 30, 2012 4:53:26 PM

mrjones15 said:
well i was really leaning towards those corsairs they seem better for the extra $2 but if u really dont think they would fit then ill stick w/ kingstons


Yeah I'd stick with the Kingston, I'm planning on getting the same modules for my upgrade later on.
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April 30, 2012 5:08:35 PM

ima go w/ the corsair for the little price difference and improvement on them im trusting u on this one kull they better fit
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April 30, 2012 5:17:38 PM

your results showed nothing. and it dont matter if i wont notice the little speed difference its just the fact that it will be that much better for only a couple $$
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April 30, 2012 5:20:35 PM

linked them on Corsair's website now.

Also, by "much better" I would assume you mean the looks. B/c in terms of reliability and speed, the Kingstons are the same.
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April 30, 2012 5:35:31 PM

ok a little off hand saying "much" but better at least and yes looks do factor as part of the build a bit and black always looks good. the corsair that kull picked out, it says its quad channel and the mobo is dual channel supported that wont effect it in anyway right
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April 30, 2012 6:20:26 PM

mrjones15 said:
your results showed nothing. and it dont matter if i wont notice the little speed difference its just the fact that it will be that much better for only a couple $$

How is it better if you won't notice the speed difference? There are no real world benefits in running RAM higher than 1600 MHz.
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May 1, 2012 2:53:42 PM
May 1, 2012 5:20:12 PM



That will be an amazing build but you don't need the extra case fans - the Carbide is pretty well ventilated to begin with and includes fans on the top, front, and side. I'd also say go for the Ivy CPUs - either the i7-3770K or the i5-3570K if you can get them.
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May 1, 2012 6:34:41 PM

The case you choose is great, but I am a fanboy of the 600T Special Edition Corsair. Did you consider that one? It looks beautiful, and it has a side panel so you can show off your system, in addition to the mesh panel that you can use for extra cooling:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

And I agree you wont need extra Case Fans.

What about CPU cooler for the k-type processor? The stock cooler is fine for mild overclocks, but you could definitely get a higher OC from a good aftermarket cooler like one of these:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... (g-unit's pick)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...


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May 1, 2012 7:26:54 PM

kulladoctor said:
The case you choose is great, but I am a fanboy of the 600T Special Edition Corsair. Did you consider that one? It looks beautiful, and it has a side panel so you can show off your system, in addition to the mesh panel that you can use for extra cooling:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

And I agree you wont need extra Case Fans.

What about CPU cooler for the k-type processor? The stock cooler is fine for mild overclocks, but you could definitely get a higher OC from a good aftermarket cooler like one of these:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... (g-unit's pick)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...


If you're going for a fan in that price range I'd hate to recommend an H70 - you can get better performance with a Noctua D14 and it's far safer than a closed liquid loop will be.
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May 2, 2012 1:48:03 AM

does the cpu fan actually go on the inside? i figured it did just not exactly sure where it went so i took it out. g-unit had a really good one picked out from the looks and reviews i liked it a lot.

that case looks exactly the same on the inside just a little cooler on the out and for a bit more cash ill stick w/ the one g-unit recommended.

and i want all those fans i just wanna know if there will b enuf power slots for them all idk wat they plug into.
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May 2, 2012 1:51:56 AM

g-unit1111 said:
That will be an amazing build but you don't need the extra case fans - the Carbide is pretty well ventilated to begin with and includes fans on the top, front, and side. I'd also say go for the Ivy CPUs - either the i7-3770K or the i5-3570K if you can get them.


y wats the difference between ivy and sandy? and would everything else still work fine?
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May 2, 2012 4:29:29 AM

mrjones15 said:
y wats the difference between ivy and sandy? and would everything else still work fine?


The main difference are a slight performance increase and overclocking ability, and Ivy unlocks PCI Gen 3 for the newer video cards like the 7870 and 680.

Quote:
does the cpu fan actually go on the inside? i figured it did just not exactly sure where it went so i took it out. g-unit had a really good one picked out from the looks and reviews i liked it a lot.


Yes - it includes mounting brackets that attach the heat sink to the top of your CPU. The Hyper 212 Evo is great - I have the Hyper 212+ on my work PC and the temperatures that my system generates are the lowest on the network.

Quote:
that case looks exactly the same on the inside just a little cooler on the out and for a bit more cash ill stick w/ the one g-unit recommended.


They're both about the same - I like the Carbide because it's quite a bit slimmer than the Graphite and far easier to transport.

Quote:
and i want all those fans i just wanna know if there will b enuf power slots for them all idk wat they plug into.


You can only have as many fans as your case has mounts for. A case like the Carbide includes 1 x 200 mm top fan, 1 x 140mm side fan, 1 x 200mm front fan, and 1 x 120mm exhaust fan. I'd suggest reading this about how to set up a good air cooling solution: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/cooling-airflow-hea...
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May 2, 2012 1:15:46 PM

Quote:
You can only have as many fans as your case has mounts for. A case like the Carbide includes 1 x 200 mm top fan, 1 x 140mm side fan, 1 x 200mm front fan, and 1 x 120mm exhaust fan. I'd suggest reading this about how to set up a good air cooling solution: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/cooling-airflow-hea...


Three 120mm fans (two in the front, and one in the rear) and one 200mm side fan are included. i want to add 3 more 140mm 2 on top n one on bottom. its to early in the morn to read that guide ill read it later. i understand u can hav the amount your case supports but where do they all plug into.
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