Antec 300, fan sizes/fan set up

Hey guys, I've got an Antec 300 that I am looking to put a couple extra fans in. It already has 3 speed fans on the top (140 mm) and the back (120 mm) as exhaust. I'm currently pulling air passively through the side vent, and the front vents. I want to put fans on the front (2 slots, thought they were 120 mm since one of the stock upgraded 300s has 2 120mm in the front but may be 140 mm) and don't really know what to do with the side.

1. Does anyone know for sure what size fans should go in the front?
2. what should I do with the side vent?
3. I was planning on getting these silenX 120mm fans, anyone used them/like them?
4. Since I'm doing all this fan work, I was going to replace the stock fans with quieter ones. The 120 mm rear exhaust I was going to replace with another silenX, but the 140 silenX fan doesn't look quite as good based on the numbers so is there a decent QUIET 140 mm fan for my top exhaust?
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More about antec sizes
  1. Best answer
    1. All of the fan mounts are 120mm except the top-mounted 140mm fan.

    I highly recommend you read this great article on fan placement and it's impact on cooling:

    As far as fans go...I like quiet, not flashy/no lights, and inexpensive. I use Yate Loon D12SL-12s; 4/$20 at Petra's Tech Shop: I have 4 of them in my Antec P183 on a fan controller and they are silent running at 1000-1200RPM. Review of the fans: I use the Scythe Kaze Master Pro fan controller: I paid more than I initially intended for the fan controller, but it is a high quality component that I'l be able to use for a very long time. The 3-speed fans that came in my P183 died after a couple of years and i've been extremely happy with the Yate Loons cooling performance and silence since I put them in my case...quiet is good for the soul.
  2. There is also a 140mm version by Yate Loon:
  3. Thanks for the response! Those yate loons are 28db for sound though, that's quite a bit more than the SilenXs. I will definitely read the article (not now, have to run to the store) and it sounds like it will answer my side vent question.

    What's the advantage of the fan controller? It measures the temps of each of the fans? or does it measure the air temp? I guess it would be good to be able to turn some of the fans on during gaming and then turn them off afterwards.. easily.
  4. Most mfr fan ratings are best..some are downright lies. I've never personally used the SilenX fans. Here is a review of some of their fans on a very reputable site that specializes in quiet computing:
    And a link to their recommended fans: If you went to their forums and asked about the Yate Loons you'd get near instant recognition and approval. One of their top-rated fans the Nexus Real Silent D2Sl-12, is a slightly modifed version of the Yate Loons that I use. A review of the Nexus fans: The Nexus fans cost ~$12 each vs 4/$20 I pay for the Yate Loons...that's about 250% more expensive per fan. One of the reasons that I use the fan controller isso that i can increase the fan speeds when I need the extra cooling or decrease their speed when I want absolute silence.

    Asfar as the fan controller temp readouts...the unit comes with tempterature sensors that you palce in the case. This allows you to monitor air temps in areas that might tend to be warmer like around the GPU or the CPU. If temps get higher than you want then you can increase the fan speeds for extra cooling.
  5. I've gotten to the point that I keep the fans constantly at 1000RPM....great cooling performance and silent with those fans.
  6. I've heard the more blades the better, that looks pretty sweet. I could get one for all my fan ports and have 75 fan blades moving air... that sounds nice... hopefully nice and quiet.

    I'm still really thinking about the SilenX EFX-12-15... even if they are BSing the numbers (which SPCR said they are getting better about) it should still perform really well. Plus they are newer, maybe SilenX learned some things since the Ixtrema Pro was tested.

    Thanks for that fan efficacy article and the websites, Rugger; they are really informative! And I'm sure I'll read more than what you linked to... I've already found myself getting distracted reading articles a couple times while writing this comment.
  7. shark fans are good modern fans that is both high performance and great airflow...
    with 15 fan blades, its gonna rip you're pc apart.. :)
  8. What's up with fan controllers catching on fire? I've read a ton of reviews, and it seems like all of the controllers have at least a couple people that have had it catch on fire...

    Was thinking of getting this one,

    Also, read that this was pretty nice, probably going to go with it for the top exaust Akasa 140mm Viper PWM
  9. The Pro Ace is basically the Pro model with a couple more bells/whistles. Looks like a great little controller. Just check the feature/price differences and decide if it's worth the extra money to you. You can go with whichever fans you feel best meet your needs. I just wanted offer some great price/performance options so you didn't have to pay $12-15 for a single fan. I wouldn't go overboard on fans inside the case...the article on fan placement by Bit-Tech doscovered a point of diminishing returns between cooling/noise. ;) Don't forget to look at your other primary noise-makers: CPU/GPU coolers.
  10. Yeah I noticed that when looking at the fan usage comparison in the bit-tech article- diminishing returns on more fans. I'm just being a little paranoid- I've had some hardware malfunctions recently and I'm almost positive it's not heat (core temp says I've been fine, gpu temp has been fine) but with nice stuff breaking I'm willing to put a few extra bucks into it to make sure I've got my bases covered, and I'm hoping to do that as quietly as possible, even with a higher price tag. But you've been really helpful and I will hook you up with the best answer once my stuff gets here.
  11. I wasn't jockeying for the BA, but if you think it was then thank you! I hope the Akasa and the Shark fans work out well and are as quiet/effective as you want. :D Paranoia isn't always a bad thing...some times they really are out to get you.

    What type of component failures have you been experiencing? What are your system specs?
  12. Well.... I ended up getting SilenXs for the 120s and a cougar vortex 140mm, all good fans- quiet, seem to have good air movement. I am stupid and ordered the wrong fan controller though, despite posting the link on here for the right one. My max temps are still high (62C, highest the amd recommends using it at), but lower than they were with the factory fans and I think the fan controller will help a lot. It may also change the noise level of the fans though I guess... we will see.

    I had 2 graphics cards die- bought a Nvidia GTS 450 in 12/11, died 7/12; and then I bought a gigabyte radeon 7870 that died after 11 days (out for RMA w/ gigabyte now). I already replaced the power supply just in case it was the cause... and maybe it was random, but I don't want to take chances.

    Oh and I put my specs into the configuration section in the profile
  13. Still don't see your specs. Are you at 62C at full load or at idle? What are your ambint temps? What are you using to measure temps? Are you using the stock CPU cooler or after-market? I'm wondering if your CPU cooler is mounted properly...I'd be concerned about running a CPU at max temps on a constant basis
  14. 62C max during a video game, I leave core temp on in the background and alt tab occasionally, but mostly just watch the max temp. I idle around 40C, I have a high ambient temperature (78-80F) since my room gets a tiny amount of AC.

    motherboard: MSI NF725GM-P43
    CPU: 3.5 ghz AMD Phenom II x4 970
    Graphics: Gigabyte AMD Radeon 7870 (out for RMA, right now using NVIDIA GeForce GT 240)
    Power supply: PC Power and Cooling Silencer MkII
    Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 2x 4gb (8gb)
    Hard Drive: ST350041 3AS SCSI Disk Device (500.11 GB) -- drive 0, s/n W2A0TNDR, SMART Status: Healthy

    The programs I use to monitor the computer are CPU-Z (although I only started using this a couple weeks ago), core temp, and belarc advisor.

    I believe the cooler to be stock, my brother made this for me (he has made many computers, and has been professionally involved in building computer components).
  15. Photos of my fan set up/inside the computer

    Front intakes blowing into the computer, tried to use the HDD to divert air flow above/below GPU (once again, more important and more obvious with the 7870 in, its much longer)

    PSU fan blows up towards GPU, have an intake blowing in from the side vent into the space between cpu and gpu (will be more of an issue once I get the 7870 back)

    CPU fan blows off the CPU into the flow going the the rear/top exhaust
  16. wow, that's one messy case..ahha, btw,
    if your 7870 come back, i think u nid to make your psu fans blow as exhaust.

    wouldnt want it to exhaust straight to ur gpu
  17. You think tidying wires would help ;)? Yeah I've been in and out of there, and there's more to install soon so I didn't spend much time tucking the wires away.

    How do I switch it to blowing as an exhaust?

    Oh and I tried a trial of prime 95, went up to 66C after like 2 minutes so I stopped it.
  18. [quotemsg=2622406,19,1258840How do I switch it to blowing as an exhaust?
    Method #1: buy a PSU with the fan configured as exhaust
    Method #2: void the PSU's warranty by opening it to flip the fan
    Method #3: simply leave it as-is, with two exhaust fans on top, there should be plenty of airflow to dilute whatever warm air the PSU is bringing in to make it a relatively minor contributor to case temperature

    As for tidying up wires, this is not really going to make much of a difference as long as critical areas are clutter-free enough to not interfere with the CPU/GPU fans.

    The Antec 300 is not really a case that lends itself well to tidying wiring since the only "stow-away" area is behind the 3.5" bays.
  19. Normally the large PSU fan acts as an intake for the PSU; it sucks in air to go over the PSU components and exhausts out the rear grill. Are you sure that the PSU fan is blowing in to the case? An easy check is to feel the air at the rear can use a piece of paper or something to easily confirm airflow direction. The stock CPU coolers that are top mounted like yours are also normally configured so the fan blows air onto the fins of the cooler; blow towards the CPU. Again...are you sure that the cooler fan is blowing away from the cooler and not towards?

    Your ambient temps aren't that high at 26C. I don't see dirt/dust caked onto the CPU cooler, but it could probably use a good cleaning. Compressed air is the easiest but not the most thorough will have to watch out for condensation from the air (gets really cold as it leaves the can). If cleaning doesn't work , then I would consider upgrading the CPU cooler to the Coolermaster Hyper 212+ EVO...much better CPU cooler and can usually be bought for around $30. You should be able to run your system at full load for hours on end. You're rightfully afraid of temps and case fans aren't going to significantly decrease you CPU temps. Not to mention that the 212+ will be much quieter at full load.
  20. It is an exhaust... I have felt back there before and since I didn't feel any heat I assumed it must be blowing in.. aaaaaand the CPU fan is also blowing onto the fins, like you said. I'm actually disappointed in myself for not knowing that.

    I will give it a good cleaning tomorrow or maybe when my fan controller comes... and see if that helps, I have read about the 212+ in other threads/forums, and was already considering getting it if I couldn't figure out what exactly was happening.

    Last question, also considered getting the corsair H100 all in one water cooler (while I think water cooling is awesome, I don't think I can really embrace it and take it to fruition)... Significantly better than the 212+? if it's not significantly better, it's not worth the extra 70 bucks

    edit: I really need to proof read before I submit
  21. remember, water cooling means using a radiator and water, if one of the hose is punctured, then, water drips out, and uhh..yeah...
  22. Well the H100 doesn't actually fit in an antec 300 anyways... but after a lot of reading, it just makes sense to get the 212 if nothing improves. Thanks guys, big ups to Rugger for helpin a noob out.
  23. Best answer selected by Capsandogs.
  24. Glad I could help...if you get the 212+ then let us know how the your temps turnout after install. If you need help with the install then feel free to's relatively simple but you just need to be thorough. The first time I did one it was a mess and I had to learn some things the hard way!
  25. They are awesome; I installed the 212 EVO this morning, and used arctic cooling mx-4 for the TIM. I turned it on and let it run for bit, and then ran prime 95, and I let it run for 23 min and only got up to 49, so that's pretty awesome. Probably over 20 degree difference. I'm thinking the old thermal paste might have also had something to do with it.
  26. That's a phenomenal difference! I'd be willing to bet you're right about the old thermal paste and i'd throw in that dust/dirt on the HSF was reducing the colers efficiency, too. Burn in the new past with 12hrs of Prime95...temps might even drop a couple more degrees.
  27. I'll do that. The install was not too bad at all- used a very lint free type of paper towel and alcohol to clean, and blew compressed air on it afterwards before applying new stuff. The only tricky part was that my CPU actually came off with the old cooler so I had to put that back in (never had the CPU out of socket before), but other than that it was pretty smooth.
  28. Cool - glad it worked ou so well and you're happy with the purchase. I can imagine a look of confusion when you peer down at an empty socket. :D
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