Critique my $1650 (US) build

[Rataan]

Approximate Purchase Date: ASAP

Budget Range: $1500 - $1800 (US)

System Usage from Most to Least Important: Gaming, Internet, general use

Parts Not Required: Monitor

Preferred Website(s) for Parts: Newegg or Amazon

Country: USA

Parts Preferences: by brand or type: Z77 chipset and Ivy Bridge CPU's

Overclocking: I always overclock a moderate amount, if I can.

SLI or Crossfire: Not for the next year at least. Maybe someday.

Monitor Resolution:

Additional Comments:

Here is what I have picked out:

ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77 LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131821

Intel Core i5-3570K Ivy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core Desktop Processor
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819116504

SAPPHIRE 11199-03-20G Radeon HD 7870 GHz Edition 2GB
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102983

CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Low Profile
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233186

Corsair Carbide Series 500R White
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811139010

CORSAIR Enthusiast Series TX650 V2 650W
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139020

Western Digital Caviar Black WD1001FALS 1TB 7200 RPM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822136284

Crucial M4 CT256M4SSD2 2.5" 256GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820148443

COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103099

ASUS 24X DVD Burner
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827135204

Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit - OEM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832116986

I know that some of these items, like the 256 GB SSD, may seem like overkill, and some, like the 7870, are a tad short of bleeding edge. But the idea was to build a system that was bulletproof, high performance and with room to grow. The Sabertooth MB is premium priced, but I have another thread floating around in the power supply forum about why durability and longevity matter to me.

Thanks in advance.

 

[ddan49]

If you're overclocking, then the IB CPU is not a good idea. Anyway, I'll go down the list:

Mobo: WHAT?! If you've decided on it, okay. But that's one EXPENSIVE motherboard. Do you really need it? I mean, if you ever upgrade your CPU, you'll need a different motherboard. The socket will be different. Make sure you understand this... if you decide to upgrade your CPU, even next year, you WILL need a different motherboard. That is really overkill that you could spend on improving the performance of your build. That mobo doesn't affect performance.

CPU: I'd really go with the i5-2500k... better overclocker

GPU: Depending on if you can, either get a 680 or get the MSI Twin Frozr II OC version of the 7870. Whatever GPU you decide on, just get the MSI Twin Frozr II OC verson... you won't be disappointed. Great performance, cooling, and noise. Or you could wait for the Nvidia competition to the 7850/7870, if you can't get the 680. However, if you saved some money on the mobo and some other components (below), I'm sure you could get the 680.

RAM: Overpriced. Any reason you want low-profile? I'm fairly certain the Hyper 212 won't interfere with the heat spreaders. I'd save $10 and not go with low-profile, but in a $1600 build, it's up to you. Don't go any higher than DDR3-1600, though... not worth it.

Case: Not much I can say. It's a nice case.

PSU: Let's get something a bit heftier. Are you okay with non-modular? I calculated your needs with the eXtrme PSU calculator, with a couple of 680s in SLI (they use more power than the 7870, and I did it just to make sure) and a bunch of other stuff (like a hefty overclock) added in. 25% capacitor aging, just to make sure (usually I would only account for 15%, 25% is huge, but you said longevity). Total minimum? 700W. PSUs perform best between 20% and 80% of full load, so if 700W is 80%, then an 825W PSU is what we would go for. However, this is with a LOT of stuff added in (like 6 fans, USB devices, two 7200rpm drives, 25% aging) so we would be fine with 750W. That's because without aging, it'll only use 585W max load, so I think we will be fine with 750W. For that, I would recommend the PC Power and Cooling... Silver rating, great reliability, great price: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817703027&Tpk=pc%20power%20and%20cooling%20750w

HDD/SSD: Fine. The HDD seems overpriced, and I'd go with Samsung for the HDD, but whatever floats your boat. Crucial SSDs are also nice. Try checking tomshardware's daily deals and slickdeals.net to find daily sales on SSDs, where you can get the price under $1/gb (yes, the Crucial is already, but they commonly have sales of like 10% off)! That's how I bought my SSD.

CPU Cooler: Fine.

DVD Drive: Nice choice. I like ASUS.

OS: Nice.

Overall, that's what I would go with.

 

[Rataan]

If you're overclocking, then the IB CPU is not a good idea. Anyway, I'll go down the list:

Mobo: WHAT?! If you've decided on it, okay. But that's one EXPENSIVE motherboard. Do you really need it? I mean, if you ever upgrade your CPU, you'll need a different motherboard. The socket will be different. Make sure you understand this... if you decide to upgrade your CPU, even next year, you WILL need a different motherboard. That is really overkill that you could spend on improving the performance of your build. That mobo doesn't affect performance.

I almost never upgrade my PC's. I buy them and use them for 2 - 2 1/2 years, then give them to my brother and build another one. He is very hard on PC's, for a variety of reasons, and I get tired of fixing them for him. I agree it is overpriced, maybe even somewhat gimmicky, and it should have WiFi for that money. My second choice was the ASUS P8Z77-V, but it is still a $200 board, and I noticed that most of the people here recommend moderately priced boards like the ASUS P8Z77-V LK, but I would pay more for the WiFi capability.

CPU: I'd really go with the i5-2500k... better overclocker.

Interesting recommendation. I usually overclock, but I don't try to max it out. I haven't done much homework on the Ivy Bridge. I assumed I would want it along with the newer Z77 boards.

GPU: Depending on if you can, either get a 680 or get the MSI Twin Frozr II OC version of the 7870. Whatever GPU you decide on, just get the MSI Twin Frozr II OC verson... you won't be disappointed. Great performance, cooling, and noise. Or you could wait for the Nvidia competition to the 7850/7870, if you can't get the 680. However, if you saved some money on the mobo and some other components (below), I'm sure you could get the 680.

Thanks, I'll take that recommendation.

RAM: Overpriced. Any reason you want low-profile? I'm fairly certain the Hyper 212 won't interfere with the heat spreaders. I'd save $10 and not go with low-profile, but in a $1600 build, it's up to you. Don't go any higher than DDR3-1600, though... not worth it.

Case: Not much I can say. It's a nice case.

PSU: Let's get something a bit heftier. Are you okay with non-modular? I calculated your needs with the eXtrme PSU calculator, with a couple of 680s in SLI (they use more power than the 7870, and I did it just to make sure) and a bunch of other stuff (like a hefty overclock) added in. 25% capacitor aging, just to make sure (usually I would only account for 15%, 25% is huge, but you said longevity). Total minimum? 700W. PSUs perform best between 20% and 80% of full load, so if 700W is 80%, then an 825W PSU is what we would go for. However, this is with a LOT of stuff added in (like 6 fans, USB devices, two 7200rpm drives, 25% aging) so we would be fine with 750W. That's because without aging, it'll only use 585W max load, so I think we will be fine with 750W. For that, I would recommend the PC Power and Cooling... Silver rating, great reliability, great price: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817703027&Tpk=pc%20power%20and%20cooling%20750w

I originally had a 750w chosen, and I think I'll go back to it. BTW, the 750w Corsair version of the one I originally posted is the same price as the one in your link, but I like the Silver rating. I'm sure either would do fine.

HDD/SSD: Fine. The HDD seems overpriced, and I'd go with Samsung for the HDD, but whatever floats your boat. Crucial SSDs are also nice. Try checking tomshardware's daily deals and slickdeals.net to find daily sales on SSDs, where you can get the price under $1/gb (yes, the Crucial is already, but they commonly have sales of like 10% off)! That's how I bought my SSD.

CPU Cooler: Fine.

DVD Drive: Nice choice. I like ASUS.

OS: Nice.

Overall, that's what I would go with.

I've always been partial to WD, and I like to flatter myself that the reason I have never had a HD failure is because I didn't look for bargains. I know, famous last words...

 

[ddan49]

I don't know if the motherboard is really all that bullet-proof... I mean, if you're hard on your PC (and I'm assuming physically? Do you mean like he takes it to LAN parties?), then the motherboard isn't what breaks. I honestly have no idea why you want that motherboard, although I think it might be because you think it'll be more durable with the "bulletproof armor" all over it. Is that why?

With IB, I mean that the IB chips get hotter. Even on moderate overclocks. You would be better off with SB, honestly, because power isn't an issue and you have a dedicated GPU.

Samsung Spinpoint isn't all that cheap either, but if you like WD, go with WD. I'm partial to Samsung, but brand loyalty means nothing. Meaning that if I find something for a better deal that's just as good, I am not sticking with Samsung anyway.

 

[Why_Me]

Interesting recommendation. I usually overclock, but I don't try to max it out. I haven't done much homework on the Ivy Bridge. I assumed I would want it along with the newer Z77 boards.

Here's the thing. Anything over 4.4Ghz - 4.6Ghz on a SB cpu nets you little to nothing in regards to FPS in games. Anything past that is for bragging rights only.

http://www.anandtech.com/show/5763/undervolting-and-overclocking-on-ivy-bridge <----- 4.4Ghz on an IB using stock voltage.

PCI-E 3.0, native 3.0 USB, Thunderbolt...the IB has too many extra's for some of us to write off. It's the future.

Also look at Amazon on a lot of those components you have chosen if you want to save some $$$.

http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-Series-Gaming-CC-9011012-WW/dp/B005E983JW/ref=sr_1_20?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1335728732&sr=1-20 $116.16 & this item ships for FREE with Super Saver Shipping
Corsair Carbide Series 500R Mid Tower Gaming Case CC-9011012-WW

http://www.amazon.com/OCZ-Series-80PLUS-Performance-compatible/dp/B005A2RJOI/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1335729059&sr=1-5 $89.99 & this item ships for FREE with Super Saver Shipping
OCZ ZS Series 750W 80PLUS Bronze High Performance Power Supply compatible with Intel Sandy Bridge Core i3 i5 i7 and AMD Phenom

 

[ddan49]

Also, IB costs $50 more atm. I'd use pcpartpicker to find the best prices on my components.

Also, anything above 4.5Ghz RIGHT NOW doesn't net you anything. Later on, though, it might make a difference. Plus, SB is cheaper!

 

[Why_Me]

Also, IB costs $50 more atm. I'd use pcpartpicker to find the best prices on my components.

Also, anything above 4.5Ghz RIGHT NOW doesn't net you anything. Later on, though, it might make a difference. Plus, SB is cheaper!

So you think sometime in the future an over clock on a SB past 4.5Ghz is going to net you more FPS even though it doesn't now?

You want to save money and still be able to use that board in the OP...then this cpu down below saves money. Just use the on die graphics and skip the discrete gpu.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115077 $124.99
Intel Core i3-2120 Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz LGA 1155 65W Dual-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 2000 BX80623I32120

 

[ddan49]

1) I think that sometime in the future when you upgrade your GPU without upgrading your CPU, the overclock above 4.5Ghz is going to net more fps. In newer games. Yes.

2) What? He's gaming. I'm not sure I understand what you're saying... are you saying that he should use IGP on an i3-2120 for gaming???

 

[Why_Me]

1) I think that sometime in the future when you upgrade your GPU without upgrading your CPU, the overclock above 4.5Ghz is going to net more fps. In newer games. Yes.

2) What? He's gaming. I'm not sure I understand what you're saying... are you saying that he should use IGP on an i3-2120 for gaming???

1) It's not going to net you more FPS with any new generation vid card or it would have with these new generation vid cards (AMD 7xxx & gtx 6xx series cards). If anything will net you more FPS in the future it will be saturation of PCI-E 3.0. Just like when we all went from PCI 1.6 to PCI-E 2.0 and vid cards caught up to saturate that bandwidth.

PCI-E architecture Raw bit rate Bandwidth per lane per direction Encoding Efficiency
PCI-E 2.0 5.0GT/s 500MB/s 80%
PCI-E 3.0 8.0GT/s 1GB/s 98.5%

2) I was making a point with that link to the SB 2120 in regards to cutting off a few dollars.


SB was the best thing to come out since sliced bread but it's days are numbered.

 

[tdoughtony]

3570 cheaper on tiger http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=2373004&SRCCODE=WEBLET03ORDER&cm_mmc=Email-_-WebletMain-_-WEBLET03ORDER-_-Deals

 

[ddan49]

You've made valid points. I am personally sticking with SB (buying components within the week) because of the price difference and overclocking, and I also barely ever upgrade my components, so PCI-E 3.0 and power usage don't appeal to me.

However, many GPUs don't even use all of PCI-E 2.0 yet. I believe the 690 might be starting to go higher, though (not certain).

 

[Rataan]

The Sabertooth has good features and a 5 year warranty, which is nothing to sneeze at. But I decided to go with the P8Z77-V for the WiFi capabilities and lower cost. I'm guessing the Sabertooth is targeted at military personnel and other people living and working in harsh environments. Maybe others buy it because it looks cool, but I don't even remember the last time I saw my current MB.

The videos for the Asus boards on Newegg.com say that there are several under the hood advantages to Ivy Bridge and Z77 combination. I'll try overclocking a modest amount, maybe to about 4.0 Ghz. That's a nice increase, which shouldn't stress things too much.

Thanks for the liveley debate.

 

[azeem40]

The GTX 690 won't make a difference in saturation.

 

[ddan49]

The Sabertooth has good features and a 5 year warranty, which is nothing to sneeze at. But I decided to go with the P8Z77-V for the WiFi capabilities and lower cost. I'm guessing the Sabertooth is targeted at military personnel and other people living and working in harsh environments. Maybe others buy it because it looks cool, but I don't even remember the last time I saw my current MB.

The videos for the Asus boards on Newegg.com say that there are several under the hood advantages to Ivy Bridge and Z77 combination. I'll try overclocking a modest amount, maybe to about 4.0 Ghz. That's a nice increase, which shouldn't stress things too much.

Thanks for the liveley debate.

Why do you think it's targeted at military personnel? :lol: It's not

The military has their own suppliers, and most military personnel don't carry a desktop around with them. The aesthetics are one reason, but it's also got a lot of heat spreaders (won't make a difference to you).

 

[Rataan]

Why do you think it's targeted at military personnel? :lol: It's not

The military has their own suppliers, and most military personnel don't carry a desktop around with them. The aesthetics are one reason, but it's also got a lot of heat spreaders (won't make a difference to you).

I don't get the need to be argumentative about who may be buying it. If you think you know the situation of every military family in existence, then more power to ya. I personally know more than one military family that has lived at the four corners of the earth, and sometimes for almost two years at a time. I don't know that they have a desktop PC, but they have wives, children and all the baggage that goes with them, so I don't see why not. The Sabertooth is exactly the kind of PC I would want in that situation. I also work with a girl from Nigeria. On her last trip back, the climate killed a laptop and a camera SD card. If I was working for an oil company there, that may be another place where the Sabertooth would be a good bet.

 

[ddan49]

But why exactly do you think the Sabertooth is going to handle that better? Because it looks more armored?

 

[Rataan]

But why exactly do you think the Sabertooth is going to handle that better? Because it looks more armored?

Have you read the description or watched the videos? I can understand if you haven't, since you aren't in the market for one, but it is designed to dissipate heat, protect against dust, and generally hold up better under stress.

"The military-standard TUF Components, such as Choke, Cap. and MOSFET, enable rock solid stability even under tough duty or severe environments."

But I suspect we agree that most of them will probably be sold to PC hotrodders who want extra heat management, more robust components, and a really cool looking board to look at through the transparent side panel in their case.

 

[ddan49]

Here's my logic. This is expensive enough that even if one motherboard broke, you could buy another one (meaning a normally priced ASRock) and barely go over just buying this one. Also, how much stress is your brother going to put on this? Again, it most likely won't be the motherboard that fails.

Also, I did look at it, but all it says is that it's "TUF", and that's it's "military-grade", and also that it's "third party tested". I'll go over that one by one:
TUF: It's a brand name. It's meant to make you think that it's more durable, although the name itself does nothing. Have to admit, though, that it works.

Military-grade: Er... huh? They went on to say that it can take a lot of voltage and stand up to heat. Well... that's just a normal motherboard. They didn't say ANYTHING about withstanding shock, which is the main reason why something would break (no electrical shock, like dropping it on the ground shock).

Third-party-tested: Almost all motherboards are. Also, again, they didn't say for what.

The goal of this is to make you think that it is more durable. It is probably more durable in some ways than the ASRock... I will agree there. However, the "intense environments" and stuff that they say just doesn't seem to have any substance. I mean... it's in a case! There's not going to be a hurricane! They're saying it can take heat and voltage, but that's all motherboards. This one can probably do it better, but I don't think it'll suffer any extreme heat/voltage. The one thing they don't mention that WOULD make a difference is shock resistance (from dropping it or banging it).

Also, I'm sorry if I offended you a few posts back. I just found it interesting how the marketing on the ASUS board had convinced you it was for the military. What I meant by them not taking desktops with them was when they were deployed (overseas, or somewhere else where they can't take a 50 pound desktop), not while they were moving around bases here. If you're worried about the motherboard standing up to a lot of moving around (like loading and unloading it from a car), then spending an extra $100 on the motherboard isn't how you would protect it. Spend that money on some good packaging.