anyone have tips on taking fireworks photos?

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

im going to take some photos of fireworks Monday. any one have tips to
take photos of them on a digital camera. I set my camera to iso 80 and
set it to night mode. I can take a 4 second photo this way. hope it works

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

An excellent description. Thankyou.

By the way, we didn't find out how the shoot turned out.

rtt


"Bob Williams" <mytbobnospam@cox.net> wrote in message
news:42C8A9F5.3020004@cox.net...
>
>
> jeffrey wrote:
> > im going to take some photos of fireworks Monday. any one have tips to
> > take photos of them on a digital camera. I set my camera to iso 80 and
> > set it to night mode. I can take a 4 second photo this way. hope it
works
>
> A friend recently sent me these tips.
> I think they will be very helpful to you.
> Bob Williams
>
>
>
>
>
> Shooting Fireworks with a Digital Camera
> By Jim Barthman
>
>
> I was recently asked to photograph a local fireworks display. No
> problem, I thought, I love fireworks and I've shot enough of them to
> feel absolutely confident that I could provide the client with some
> great photographs. There was one twist however; because there was a need
> for a quick turnaround on a holiday weekend, the client asked that I use
> a digital camera.
>
> My enthusiasm was quickly replaced by a mild case of insecurity. I have
> been shooting fireworks with film for years with great success. My
> confidence is a direct result of that familiar experience. Why mess with
> success? The client insisted the deadline was tight and the printer
> wanted a digital file, and there was no budget for rush film processing
> and scanning. Digital it had to be.
>
> Make no mistake about it - I do love digital photography. I just didn't
> think that it was the ideal tool for this job. So as my left brain
> processed a profusion of technical questions, my right brain apparently
> triumphed. I replied, "No problem, I'd love to shoot the job for you."
>
> Regardless of the camera equipment you use, making good photos of
> fireworks can be challenging. Here are some basic things to consider
> whenever you are shooting a pyrotechnics display.
>
> Arrive early. Take a little time, before the show, to scout the
> location. Chat up the pyrotechnic crew if possible. Try to determine
> where the fireworks will be launched and then try to find a clear,
> unobstructed view that meets your compositional requirements based on
> the terrain, the height at which the fireworks will explode, and your
> lens choices.
>
> Position yourself wisely. You don't want to be in the middle of a crowd,
> with people wandering in front of the camera or worse kicking your
> tripod mid-exposure. Steer clear of artificial light sources such as
> streetlights to avoid the possibility of light flare. Watch out for tree
> branches that can sneak into your composition too.
>
> Always use a tripod. Capturing the light trails of an aerial display
> requires long exposure times. Long exposure times require camera support
> to ensure sharp exposures. Whether you're using film or a digital
> camera, bring a sturdy tripod.
>
> Don't forget the cable release. Another way to increase camera stability
> is to use a cable release. A cable release ensures that you won't have
> to physically touch the shutter release thus eliminating the possibility
> of camera shake. Many digital cameras won't accept a standard cable
> release. Some require a specific electronic remote triggering device.
> Check with the camera manufacturer.
>
> Bring a small flashlight. Since you are going to be shooting in the dark
> bring a small light so you are not fumbling with your camera's controls
> and settings, not to mention changing memory cards etc. I use a small,
> Maglight® flashlight. It's lightweight yet sturdy, turns on and off with
> a quick twist-of-the-wrist, and goes forever on a couple of AA batteries.
>
> Bring extra batteries. Digital cameras can drain batteries quickly. Have
> backup batteries in the event that your primary batteries give out
> during the show.
>
> Bring plenty of memory cards. I admit it. I am guilty of running out of
> film during a fireworks show. Don't get so excited in the beginning that
> you fill your card before the grand finale. That's when the pyrotechnic
> pros get to show-off their most impressive aerial displays. A good
> finale will produce peak light, color, and excitement. So make sure you
> have ample storage space available when the "big guns" go off. Also make
> sure that your batteries have enough power to photograph the finale. You
> aren't likely to have time to change them when the final bursts are
> headed skyward.
>
> Landscape mode. Set your camera to Landscape mode - typically designated
> by an icon that looks like a small mountain range. It's the same as
> setting the lens on a film camera to Infinity. With the camera in
> Landscape mode you won't have to concern yourself with focusing issues.
>
> Use the highest Quality-setting. By choosing a high Quality-setting you
> will reduce the amount of compression applied to your images. JPEG
> compression degrades image quality and can even introduce artifacts into
> your image. This is a particular problem for this subject matter because
> compression artifacts are typically found in areas of high tonal and
> color contrast, like the bright colored light of fireworks bursting
> against an inky black sky. Less compression means fewer image artifacts
> and ultimately better image quality.
>
> Exposure. Shooting with a digital camera is somewhat like shooting slide
> film. If you're not careful, you can overexpose and lose detail in the
> highlights. Since fireworks are, by definition, highlights, using a
> digital camera to capture them can be tricky.
>
> You'll need to be able to control how long the shutter is open. For
> fireworks, I expose anywhere between 1 and 4 seconds. Shorter exposures
> don't always capture the full burst and longer exposures tend to produce
> washed-out results. Since the shutter speed must be long enough to
> record the explosion of the shell, I control the exposure by choosing
> the correct aperture size.
>
> If you have a B (Bulb) shutter speed setting you can use it to control
> exactly how long your shutter is open. This is always my choice. The
> trick is to open the shutter right at the beginning of the burst and
> close it when it reaches its peak. Anticipating the explosion can be
> difficult, but not impossible. If you don't have a B setting you can
> choose a fixed setting, such as 1 second.
>
> Using one of the suggested apertures listed below, you can use your
> preview to test and then compensate the aperture accordingly.
>
> The aperture you use will be based on the ISO setting of your camera or
> film.
>
> ISO SETTING APERTURE RANGE
> ISO 50 ƒ/5.6 to 11
> ISO 100 ƒ/8 to 16
> ISO 200 ƒ/11 to 22
>
> This chart will work with most prosumer digital cameras that allow you
> to set shutter speed and aperture. While most film-based point-and-shoot
> models won't allow you to do this, most of the sophisticated digital
> models permit the photographer to set these controls. If you've never
> done this before, you'll have to figure out how to use these controls by
> looking at your camera's instruction book.
>
> Most digital cameras have an ISO speed of 100. I don't suggest that you
> change it. That suggests that your correct aperture will be somewhere
> between ƒ/8 and ƒ/16. As I mentioned earlier, watch the first few
> explosions of the fireworks show in the camera's preview. You don't want
> the exposure to wash out the colors of the red, blue and green bursts.
> They should appear clearly, but they should show their actual color
> rather than wash out to a yellow/clear tone.
>
> Weather can affect exposure.
> Ever-changing weather conditions can add yet another variable to an
> already difficult assignment. Even a light mist or fog can reduce
> visibility substantially and, as a result, affect exposure. Compensate
> accordingly.
>
> Reduce the noise.
> Long exposures, higher ISO settings, and even higher temperatures can
> introduce noise into your digital photographs. Noise is typically
> visible in very dark or black areas evidenced by colored pixel
> artifacts. Although you can't avoid long exposures when shooting
> fireworks, you can choose a lower ISO setting. Increasing the ISO on
> your digital camera is like turning up the volume on your radio. By
> amplifying the signal suddenly every pop and crackle can be heard.
> That's why I don't recommend using a faster ISO.
>
> Noise Reduction Techniques Using Adobe Photoshop.
> One way to reduce noise in a digital image is to make a black frame
> during the shoot and then sandwich it with the noisy shot. To make a
> black frame, place the lens cap over the lens and make an exposure using
> the same settings that you used during your shoot. I usually try to make
> one of these exposures before I start shooting, and then another one at
> the end of the shoot. That way I won't forget.
>
> In Photoshop:
> 1. Open the black frame file alongside an image that has noise.
> 2. Shift + Drag the black frame Background layer over the noisy image
> workspace to create a new layer. (Holding the Shift key ensures that the
> new layer maintains perfect registration.)
> 3. Change the Layer Mode of the black frame layer to Difference.
> The noise should be reduced significantly.
>
> Other noise reduction techniques.
> Are you sensitive to loud sounds? You might consider purchasing
> disposable earplugs designed to protect your delicate eardrums. You can
> find them at most good pharmacies. Fireworks shows can be loud! The
> noise should be reduced significantly.
>
> It's always more comfortable to travel down paths that are most familiar
> to us. But every now and again, it's a good idea to take the unexplored
> route. You may not go anywhere. On the other hand, you may discover
> something new and unexpected. Occasionally you'll stumble upon something
> extraordinary. That's when the fun really starts.
>
>



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Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

> im going to take some photos of fireworks Monday. any one have tips to
> take photos of them on a digital camera. I set my camera to iso 80 and
> set it to night mode. I can take a 4 second photo this way. hope it works



Here is how I did it last year:

I set my camera up on a tripod with a ball head and I left it loose, but
with resistance. When a mortar would fire, I'd take my best guess where
it was going to pop.

I like shots of the burst rather than wide shots of the venue. In
addition, I didn't have some high vantage point of the city, so it would
not be interesting. (If you've got the view, then go wide too!)

Using f/9 or f/11 and the bulb setting on the shutter, I would zoom in,
probably around 70mm (the limit I had at the time) and either as it
burst, or just after the burst (because I guessed incorrectly), I would
open the shutter and wait for the burst to fizzle. (Pay attention to
your histogram to adjust your aperture) Even if I missed the first
fraction of the burst, there was no real consequence photographically.

Keep in mind that these bursts are not an instantaneous thing, they take
a few seconds to develop. The light emitted is just a dot; the line you
get is just a graph of the path it took. You can play around with the
moment you open the shutter for different effects. If you move the
camera, you get some odd looking stuff, like the burst was drifting.

If you want to expose the ambient light in the sky and make it somewhat
blue, then leave the shutter open for another 2 minutes, but you risk
getting collateral bursts in your frame and you'll get tired of standing
their with your finger on the button. Otherwise the sky will be black
and this is probably fine.

If you zoom wider and wait a while you may get 2-3 bursts that go
together well. Sometimes it will work, sometimes they will overlap.

In my city 70% of the bursts go off in just about the same place, so you
can do quite a lot without moving around much.