Im about to order the rest (we'll get to that in a moment) of my computer parts for my first home built computer, and I need some advice on CPU coolers.
Current parts list:
Case: Cooler Master HAF X
MOBO: Asus P9X79 LGA2011 socket
CPU: Intel i7-3820 3.6ghz
GPU: EVGA GTX 670 FTW
CPU cooler: thats why I'm here.
PSU: Cooler Master silent pro 850 watt
HDD: Western Digital 2tb green
Optical drive: Sony 24x DVD R/RW
Keyboard: Logitech g110
Mouse: Razer Imperator (I hate it)
RAM: Corsair vengeance 8x4gb
Currently I have a Corsair H100 with 4 CM 120mm R4 fans as my CPU cooling, because of the clearance issue with the DIMM, but having read up on it more, I realize that the H100 is overkill for what I will be doing (some high end gaming, Starcraft 2, Skyrim, etc. and running a server occasionally, but little to no overclocking) and between its history of pump failures and the inherent risk that comes with any liquid cooling, have been looking into air coolers. My first choice would, of course, be the Noctua DH14, but the Vengeance is 2.25 inches from the tip of the connectors to the highest point, and reading the Big Air LGA2011 cooler roundup here on Toms hardware reveals that they had clearance issue with the Ripjaws, and they're only 1.5 inches.
The Ram was a mistake (high profile) and its too late to return it, However, I only have 6 of 8 sticks so far, which leads to a secondary question, will the low profile Vengeance work with the high profile? If so, would using 2 Low profile in the slots closest to the CPU provide enough clearance for the DH14?
So long story short, does anyone have suggestions for CPU air coolers for the LGA2011 socket that will clear the Corsair Vengeance DIMMs? Any other suggestions are welcome as well.
P.S. Since im here: What do you all think of SSD boot drives? Theyre a bit expensive, and are they worth it?
Everything you're getting is overkill for skyrim
An ssd is a must in my books for such a premium build.If you really can't add one switch to lga 1156/55
Get the Asus gtx670. Custom cooler.
Change the psu to seasonic. Cooler master are bad at psu's.You won't need more than 750w gold even in sli.
About the ram,if everything else is identical, yes LP will work with your high profiles. Ofcourse they'd have to nearest the CPU as you said. You can then get an evo 212 cooler.
I actually Would get a BIGGER PSU at least 1000w and up I currently have a Asrock x79 Extreme 9 w/ LGA 2011 Intel i7 3930k C2 CPU Cooler Master CPU cooler with twin 120mm Fans and it Idles around 36-40 degrees C. They run kinda hot as they SUCK watts like a crack feen on dope!! I have the ATX Antec 600 case which comes with built 240mm main fan / (2) 120mm fans on cpu cooler/ a small (X-Fan) chipset fan / (1) 120 rear exhaust fan/ (1) 120mm Built PSU Fan and than I installed (2) 120mm HDD fans in the front of the Case to Increase Air flow and cool twin 2TG HDD's/ also the built in fans for The Asrock Game blaster and HD XFX Radeon 6870 2GB GPU. I know that seems like Overkill but the Case has room for 2 more 120mm Fans on the mobo ports. I "Had" a 850watt CoolMax Psu which was more than enough to handle everything never had a problem with power ever but I left my system on for a nite on Idle and woke up to find the 850watt coolmax PSU......FRIED TO A CRIP even the plastic divider for protecting the wires and fan from heat had melted all over the circuits and fuses...needless to say it no longer works and the my rig is only 8 months old and has maybe 48-72 hours tops on it. Nothing really CPR or GPU intensive has ever been run on my rig so its not like its overclocked 24/7 and running all the time. I know coolmax is a cheaper brand if your consider $159.00 cheap for a 850w psu. I am familiar with car stereo amps and other PSU related products and I know how companies like to state the Max power there products can put out by putting confusing wiring diagrams that pretty much say If you hook up every wire in house to it , it May push (850watts) or its your fault because you don't have the 75 connectings to make the power to the converter to reach max output. Just like car stereo Amplifiers like to use the old RMS ratings and stereo and mono block Class D ratings on you to confuse consumers into buying something that is far less powerful than its suggest it is. Once I bought a "1600 Watt Class A Stereo amplifier" for my 3 12" JL Audio W3v2 subwoofers figuring that each subwoofer is 275 RMS watts max making the power consumption = 825 RMS watts total, which I figured I could set the gain on 50%-55% and get the max power out of the subs and still have a 50% power savings on standby for extra subs or maybe 6x9's or 6.5's. Well what I didn't know is that the 1600Watt power output it claimed to have only have a 100RMS output meaning it only pushed enough wattage output to power 1 12" subwoofer @ 50% of its total power consumption. So I would need 6 of these so called 1600 Watt to power (3) 12" Subwoofers and at $175 a piece would cost more than the subs ,box, radio, wiring, fraud cap,fuses, and install all together. Well it turns out JL Audio makes a Class D Mono Amp that is 500watts and rated 500 x 1 channel @ 500 RMS watts for $750. Turns out that this single amplifier was under rated and the total RMS wattage was indeed 1000 watts RMS @ 0.5-1.5 Ohms. The 1600watt class A stereo amp would turn off at 50% volume in 5 minutes due to over heating protecting mode which was built in to the amp (maybe Computer PSU manufactures should use this overheating device as it would have saved by PSU from certain Death!?!?!) and the 500watt JL Audio Class D mono block could push all 3 12" subs all day 24/7 non stop and still push more than the required amount of wattage to max the subwoofers out and make that giant BOOOMM all of my neighbors and Im sure some of the older gentleman on here have grown to HATE over the years. My car pushed 142.5 SPL which is 2850 times the quietest sound a human can make, needless to say after 8-9 years of this ear torture I am half deaf in my right ear...lesson learned. Sorry for my babbling as I am very good at talking about nothing important just thought I'd let you know that these PSU companies like many other power convertor companies over rate there products to suck you into there trap of spending top end prices and getting mid level quality products. So make sure you buy a GOOD name brand which has a reputation for marking there products at there TRUE Power ratings. As my CoolMax 850Watt PSU has 3 to 4 different formulas on how to wire or hook it up to certain power outputs to achieve There so called "850 Watt" max output. You shouldn't need a formula to run a PSU plug it into the wall and hook up your pins to there ports nothing more (unless you live in the euro countries which require different fuses due to the 120/240 power levels) anyways if your are sir cooling a LGA2011 Socket CPU you will need extra Watts so go for the overkill especially if you plan on ANY Overclocking as my CPU/MOBO combo can take up to 300watts max with stock 3.20GHz setting with Turbo Boost enabled under high loads, so overclocking into the 4.0,4.2,4.4,5.0,5.2Ghz will clear 800watts easy without including any fan consumption for air cooling which will be high at these OC clocks to keep your vitals at usable and stable temps. But As I stated first these LGA2011 sockets are watt suckers and run hot so don't go cheap cause you'll pay with your CPU/MOBO Or PSU in the 1st year no problem. Sorry for the long answer but its better to be over informed than under Informed anyday. enough of my mouth and I hope all goes well with your build and God Speed Thanks for your time. - DuBz
By the way there is NO SUCH THING AS OVERKILL WITH COMPUTERS no matter what you are doing with it!! I paid just or $2000 for my rig just for the tower and it was outdated within 2 months of the build date!! Just go big and future proof it so you can always add on to it when you want to or your wallet has the funds to do so. LoL