Need help shaving off money on new build.

Hi,
I am new to building computers. I am looking to make a build that can handle most games at medium/high graphics settings smoothly. I am trying to keep the rigs price at or below $875 but my current plan for parts is at ~$925. Are there any areas of my build that I can/should change to save money?

ASRock Z77 Extreme4 134.99
EVGA GeForce GTX 460 FPB 139.99
INTEL i5 2500k 219.99
COOLER MASTER HAF 912 59.99
Western Digital Caviar Blue 500GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" 74.99
OCZ Agility 3 60GB SATA III 64.99
Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2x 4GB), PC3-12800, DDR3-1600MHz, 9-9-9-24 49.99
Corsair Enthusiast Series TX550M Modular Power Supply - 550W 94.99
Rosewill RNX-N300X IEEE 24.99
COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus 29.99
ASUS 24X DVD Burner 17.99
Cooler Master Silent Fan 120 SI2 - Case fan - 120 mm (4 pack) 12.99

Thanks!

-Justin
37 answers Last reply
More about need shaving money build
  1. Only thing I can think of to do is drop the i5 2500k to a i5 2400 Sandy Bridge, and the SSD Isn't needed.
  2. Do NOT get an SSD on a sub $1200 build - put the $ into the GPU cuz that is where you will see benefits. Get the 560ti. It uses less power, performs better, and generates less heat.
  3. Check out my $850 build here:
    http://www.squidoo.com/electronicandmore
    Although you don't get an SSD that's not what's most important for a build. You can add the SSD if you'd like but at this budget, the money is better towards a better GPU.

    The 7850 in my build can run games much more smoothly. Also, uses less power, runs cooler and also after overclocks can perform at the level of a GTX 580. The best part about the overclocking on the 7850, the 7850 can overclock easily by just downloading the AMD drivers and just sliding the sliders in the drivers menu in the OS.

    But I don't include the heatsink, wifi and dvd burner so that's something. A bonus to my build, you'll be able to Crossfire with the 7850.
  4. CPU to the i5 3550
    RAM to 2 x2 gig . More than 4 gig wont improve gaming
    The modular psu is really expensive .
    drop the SSD
    buy a decent graphics card
  5. ok, and if I get rid of the ssd and then get a 560ti will the hdd also included be fine for a boot/storage drive?
  6. Wouldn't suggest the 560 Ti. The 7850 is around the same price, overclocks better, lower power consumption and temps as well as better stock performance (obviously).

    Yes 7200 RPM HDD drives are fine for boot.
  7. Damnit, it looks like it would cost more to get the 7850 and it is barely even for the 560 ti, Would say the 460 superclocked be a cheaper part?
  8. The 560 ti is literally years ahead of the 460. Don't skimp on a graphics card, its the most important component.
  9. aznshinobi said:
    Wouldn't suggest the 560 Ti. The 7850 is around the same price, overclocks better, lower power consumption and temps as well as better stock performance (obviously).

    Yes 7200 RPM HDD drives are fine for boot.


    The HD 7850 is $50 more expensive than the GTX 560 ti...
  10. The 560 Ti you suggested is $235 before rebates. That's only $5 more for a 7850. If dropped down from the Extreme4 to the Extreme3 Gen3 Z68 here:
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157271
    Switch the PSU to this one
    http://www.amazon.com/Antec-EarthWatts-EA-650D-Green-BRONZE/dp/B004NBZAES%3FSubscriptionId%3D19BAZMZQFZJ6G2QYGCG2%26tag%3Dsquid1240995-20%26linkCode%3Dxm2%26camp%3D2025%26creative%3D165953%26creativeASIN%3DB004NBZAES
    Saves you $25 for 100w more.
    And you drop the SSD, you can afford the 7850.
  11. The cheapest (decent) HD 7850 there is costs $250, and why wouldn't you coun't rebates.

    Also, if you want to got that in depth then you must compare the warranties and therefore get the KR version of the 560 ti which is $200 (after rebates).

    But w/e, this argument is pointless.
  12. Also, OP what you can do is try to get Combos off Newegg or Amazon, they usually can save you up to $50 total.
  13. The cheapest 7850 is $240:
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814131473
    Also, you don't count rebates because there is always a chance that you don't get the rebate. I understand EVGA is reputable but MIR's are not money that you immediately get back.

    Either way it is OP's decision.
  14. You'd still drop the SSD to pay for the better graphics card

    and chosing the i5 3550 saves more too , as does trimming the RAM to 2 x2 gig

    and ditching the extra fans , and expensive psu
  15. aznshinobi is right.
    560 ti old,
    7850 new,
    Yes, Ironslice. By your own earlier statement on the 460, this argument is pointless.
  16. I never said the 560 ti was better than the 7850. The 7850 is obviously the better card, but the whole point of this thread is lowering the cost.
  17. Ironslice said:
    I never said the 560 ti was better than the 7850. The 7850 is obviously the better card, but the whole point of this thread is lowering the cost.


    The cost can be lowered by running on the integrated graphics , so its really about lowering the cost for a given performance , or [even better] lowering the cost and increasing the performance
  18. Check Microcenter for an i5 and Mobo combo. Should drop the cost by a decent amount.
  19. I don't have a microcenter anywhere near me =/,

    And with the increased cost for the 7850/560 ti, even if I drop the mobo down the 3 it would still break even/be more expensive.
  20. would the ZOTAC AMP! ZT-50302-10M GeForce GTX 560 Ti (Fermi) 1GB work? its fairly cheap from compusa
  21. Could you post the link...

    Also, if you dropped down the motherboard and PSU down to the ones I stated you'd have saved $38 right there. Dropping the SSD you'd be $103 in savings. So... That's enough to get the 7850?

    The PSU I suggested would give you the ability to Crossfire/SLI the 7850 and the motherboard is still more than enough since you're just getting the i5 2500K. Also, the PSU will save you money and more power.
  22. Solid PSU if you get the rebate even better.

    As for the Zotac, looks good for the price. But honestly if you can get the 7850 why not. Though ultimately it is your choice.
  23. I want to get the 7850 but I can't afford it =/ thanks for the help!
  24. I can barely wing the 560 ti and thats iffy
  25. Crap, sorry, one more question, is the aftermarket heatsink absolutely necesary? I won't be doing any real over clocking, maybe just to 3.8ghz but still that is a maybe.
  26. 6870's aren't bad cards, 6870 + i5 2400 Sandy bridge, theres also combo's with the 6870 sapphire with 4gb memory.... 5 pages I think.
  27. Aftermarket coolers are always good to have. They will be quieter.
  28. jjesco5 said:
    Crap, sorry, one more question, is the aftermarket heatsink absolutely necesary? I won't be doing any real over clocking, maybe just to 3.8ghz but still that is a maybe.

    The stock HSF will work fine for mild overclocking for the first 2-3 years when properly installed with adequate case airflow.

    Beyond the 3rd year, aftermarket may become necessary due to HSF plastic deformation no longer providing sufficient contact force: everyone I know using a C2D with Intel's original push-pin HSF ran into this problem anywhere between the 2nd to 4th year marks so I am expecting Core i3/5/7 to fare similarly.
  29. Quick, and stupid question,
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.957772
    ^ This is a really good deal right?
  30. I save the same amount of money both ways TT__TT and water cooling would be nice so I don't have to worry about temps
  31. Don't get any Hydro series cooler if you want a bang for your buck on a low budget. All the Hydro series are terrible for the price. The Hyper 212 Evo and A50 match up to the H70 which is about $35+ more.
  32. jjesco5 said:
    I save the same amount of money both ways TT__TT and water cooling would be nice so I don't have to worry about temps

    The Hyper 212 + or EVO outperform many low-end and some mid-range sealed water-cooling setups without the risk of leaks, water damage to your system and total loss of cooling should either the radiator fan or pump fail. With a 212 and decent case airflow, CPU fan failure is non-critical since the 212 has enough passive cooling capacity at stock clocks to keep things safe.

    I would not use water cooling unless I absolutely needed to since it costs twice as much and introduces additional points of failure along with a bunch of unnecessary collateral risks.
  33. Oh ok
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