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First PC Build $2k max

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June 2, 2012 8:55:03 PM

I plan on building my first PC and need some help choosing the parts.


Approximate Purchase Date: By the end of the month. Preferably sooner.

Budget Range: I can go as high as $2k, but would prefer to stay around $1800.

System Usage from Most to Least Important: Gaming, video editing, video streaming, and other general computer stuff.

Parts Not Required: keyboard, mouse, monitor, speakers, OS

Preferred Website(s) for Parts: newegg.com and amazon.com, but I am open to other suggestions. (I also live fairly close to microcenter)

Country: USA

Parts Preferences: Definitely an intel CPU and a GTX 670. As for other parts I do prefer ASUS and Corsair, but I'm open to other suggestions.

Overclocking: Definitely the CPU, not really sure about everything else.

SLI or Crossfire: If I need it in the future.

Monitor Resolution: Currently have a 1920x1200 24" Samsung monitor. Don't plan to upgrade until the end of the year.


Here is a newegg wishlist I put together: http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx...
The total is right at the sweet spot when I combine the items and buy the CPU cooler from Amazon.

What do you think of the parts? Is there anything I should change to get better performance or price, and do you think it is worth it to wait for the ASUS GTX 670 or is it better to get it from a different maker? Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

More about : build max

June 2, 2012 9:19:26 PM

CPU cooler: http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E1683...

Mobo: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... ($30 saving and this has more features minus the protection cover which is useless imo)

PSU: its an overkill even if you decide to sli, a 750w would be fine
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Its semi-modular as well and 80+ silver certified

GPU: I would go with the gtx 670 ftw edition since it uses the 680 PCB and isnt much slower than the asus, you can oc it easily: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Case: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
People would say this case is an overkill but i think its good to have a case with a lot of room

Ram: Go with 8gb since your use won't require 16gb, haing 16gb for gaming makes no difference than have 8gb

DVD: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
Its better for the same price and its backed up with 3,197 reviews
Related resources
June 2, 2012 9:32:52 PM

Outstanding build......few comments:

-The case you picked is one of the best I have ever used..... the PSU maintains < 1% voltage variation which will insure the best overclocks. And the headroom will come in handy with twin DCii TOP 670's and an overclocked CPU.

-The MoBo is incredible and the thermal shielding does produce nice cooling dividends. Only board I prefer is the P8Z77 WS. And no ....cheap $100 boards won't do as well in overclocking as the more expensive boards.
http://www.guru3d.com/article/asus-sabertooth-z77-revie...
http://www.hardocp.com/article/2012/04/20/asus_sabertoo...

-The GFX card is another extreme performer....it substantially (4%) outperforms the EVGA SC model while being $55 cheaper.

http://www.guru3d.com/article/evga-geforce-gtx-670-sc-r...
EVGA GTX 670 SC Overclocked 3D Mark 11 = 9443

http://www.guru3d.com/article/asus-geforce-gtx-670-dire...
ASUS GTX 670 DirectCU II TOP 3D Mark 11 = 9839


1. The Mushkin Chronos Deluxe..... simply put, nothing else even comes close. Oh there are other SSD's out there with premium toshiba toggle mode flash (highest performance, longest life) but noine selling at Mushkin's Less than $1 per GB price. That gives ya $65 back or double the size for another $45. Check the performance charts on the tweaktown link.

$120 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
$230 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/4328/mushkin_chronos_d...

Quote:
Other than a few really oddball entries, SF-2281 'consumer' SSDs come in three flash flavors. Starting on the low end, you have IMFT 25nm asynchronous flash, a budget flash used in the Agility 3, Force 3, Chronos (non-Deluxe model) and a few other drives that in our testing perform at around the same level as last year's SF-1200 controlled drives when filled to 50 percent capacity. A majority of drives use IMFT 25nm synchronous flash; Vertex 3, Force GT, S511 and so on.

Synchronous flash, also called ONFi 2.x is really the first step for enthusiasts, especially now that prices have really dropped. The final flash type used is 3Xnm Toggle Mode flash from Toshiba, a form of ONFi 2.x without the JEDEC classification. 25nm IMFT is rated for around 5K P/E cycles and 3Xnm Toshiba Toggle Mode flash is rated for around twice as many. Even though we are talking about writing a lot of data for a very long time, the 3Xnm flash will still last even longer. At this time there are very few consumer SSDs that use Toshiba Toggle Flash; you can count those available in the US on one hand - Vertex 3 Max IOPS Edition, Patriot WildFire, OWC Mercury Extreme Pro 6G (240GB capacity size only) and what we looked at today, the Mushkin Enhanced Chronos Deluxe. That said, the Chronos Deluxe is in a very limited class of products right from the gate......

To sum it all up with a bow on top, you get amazing performance, extremely long service life and a hassle free low price point on a drive that literally has very little competition in the marketplace.


The H100 beats out the better air coolers by 1/4 degree......to my mind, the risk of introducing water into a electronics box has gotta give me more than 1/4 degree. I'd use the Phanteks cooler.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/phanteks_ph_tc14pe...

Don't forget some TIM, Shin Etsu tops the charts and doesn't ahve the 200 hour curing issue of AS5
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=com_conten...

One thing I'd consider i adding Blue Ray capability for $40 or so.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
June 2, 2012 9:46:03 PM

JackNaylorPE said:
Outstanding build......few comments:

1. The Mushkin Chronos Deluxe..... simply put, nothing else even comes close. Oh there are other SSD's out there with premium toshiba toggle mode flash (highest performance, longest life) but noine selling at Mushkin's Less than $1 per GB price. That gives ya $65 back or double the size for another $45. Check the performance charts on the tweaktown link.

$120 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
$230 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

You do realize the Crucial M4 offers 16 more GB for $20 less right?

Penguinz, you can stick with the 3770k, but since you live near a Micro Center you can do this:
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml...
http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml...

Which saves you $150 for about 4% less performance overall.




June 2, 2012 10:41:21 PM

Merueth said:
You do realize the Crucial M4 offers 16 more GB for $20 less right?


You do realize they two are worlds apart in performance right ?

Quote:
At this time there are very few consumer SSDs that use Toshiba Toggle Flash; you can count those available in the US on one hand - Vertex 3 Max IOPS Edition, Patriot WildFire, OWC Mercury Extreme Pro 6G (240GB capacity size only) and what we looked at today, the Mushkin Enhanced Chronos Deluxe. That said, the Chronos Deluxe is in a very limited class of products right from the gate.


http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/4328/mushkin_chronos_d...

HD Tune Pro (read)
Chronos Deluxe 120 = 428.4 (10% advantage)
Crucial M4 128 = 389.1

HD Tune Pro (write)
Chronos Deluxe 120 = 427.2 (129% advantage)
Crucial M4 128 = 186.8

Pick a benchmark, the Chronos Deluxe crushes the M4. And the M4 also doesn't have the extreme long life premium toshiba toggle mode flash which means the Chronos Deluxe will certainly outlast it by a huge margin.

Quote:
Synchronous flash, also called ONFi 2.x is really the first step for enthusiasts, especially now that prices have really dropped. The final flash type used is 3Xnm Toggle Mode flash from Toshiba, a form of ONFi 2.x without the JEDEC classification. 25nm IMFT is rated for around 5K P/E cycles and 3Xnm Toshiba Toggle Mode flash is rated for around twice as many. Even though we are talking about writing a lot of data for a very long time, the 3Xnm flash will still last even longer.
June 2, 2012 11:24:51 PM

Quote:
http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/4 [...] ndex6.html

HD Tune Pro (read)
Chronos Deluxe 120 = 428.4 (10% advantage)
Crucial M4 128 = 389.1

HD Tune Pro (write)
Chronos Deluxe 120 = 427.2 (129% advantage)
Crucial M4 128 = 186.8

Pick a benchmark, the Chronos Deluxe crushes the M4. And the M4 also doesn't have the extreme long life premium toshiba toggle mode flash which means the Chronos Deluxe will certainly outlast it by a huge margin.


No the M4 beats the Chronos
Watch this(PROOF):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_5CHVqbmvN8
June 2, 2012 11:33:30 PM

So a video shows its performance better than tested data? : d
June 2, 2012 11:38:09 PM

That video is for the Chronos non-Deluxe mate..
June 2, 2012 11:54:57 PM

I really appreciate all the replies, but I still have some questions/concerns.


1. Is the H100 really that bad? It doesn't seem to take up much space since the 500R has a special place for it, and the cooling performance seems good compared to the coolers you suggested (those are HUGE and all weight more than 1000g btw) at about the same price range.

2. I'm still not really sure what to do with the mobo. The Sabertooth seems like a really good board and the design is pretty cool, but the P8Z77-V PRO is a bit cheaper and has all the features of the Sabertooth. Which one should I go for?

3. I went with the ASUS GTX 670 mostly because of the cooling performance, but the Gigabyte version seems to have really good performance too. I think I'll go with whichever one is back in stock first. What are your thoughts on this?

4. I previously had no experience with SSDs in desktops and the reason I went with the Intel 520 is the 5 year warranty, the good reviews, and the free Mass Effect 3 you can get with it. And I'm not really sure what to do since the replies made me even more confused about which SSD to get.

Additional Comments: I changed the DVD burner to the ASUS one g-gill24 linked to, I don't really see a point in having a blue-ray drive in a desktop. And would a 750w PSU of the same series be enough if I add a second GTX 670 in the future?


Thanks.
June 2, 2012 11:56:48 PM

The weight will not matter. A MOBO is very durable.
June 3, 2012 1:29:09 PM

After reading your suggestions, here is what I came down to: http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx... , but I still have some questions.


1. I've pretty much decided on a Chronos Deluxe SSD, but I'm not sure what the difference between these two is. Can anyone explain?

2. I've decided against the H100, but there are so many air cooler I don't know which one to choose. I prefer dual fan setups and was looking at the Noctua D-14, but the color scheme on it is a bit of a turn off. Are there any other similarly performing air coolers which also look good, or is it better to stay with Noctua?

3. Since I'm not going with the H100, I was thinking about getting a different case. Do you have any suggestions for a similar size case, or is 500R good even if I don't utilize the radiator space?

4. After these changes will my parts still be compatible, and will the case have enough room for an air cooler? This is my first build from scratch, and the last thing I need is any hardware issues.


Thanks.
June 3, 2012 5:18:26 PM

Penguinz said:
After reading your suggestions, here is what I came down to: http://secure.newegg.com/WishList/PublicWishDetail.aspx... , but I still have some questions.


1. I've pretty much decided on a Chronos Deluxe SSD, but I'm not sure what the difference between these two is. Can anyone explain?

2. I've decided against the H100, but there are so many air cooler I don't know which one to choose. I prefer dual fan setups and was looking at the Noctua D-14, but the color scheme on it is a bit of a turn off. Are there any other similarly performing air coolers which also look good, or is it better to stay with Noctua?

3. Since I'm not going with the H100, I was thinking about getting a different case. Do you have any suggestions for a similar size case, or is 500R good even if I don't utilize the radiator space?

4. After these changes will my parts still be compatible, and will the case have enough room for an air cooler? This is my first build from scratch, and the last thing I need is any hardware issues.

Noctua is a very high quality air cooler, though if the color discomforts you get the hyper 212 evo


Thanks.

June 3, 2012 6:41:24 PM

The 500R has better thermals.
June 3, 2012 11:03:57 PM

Wow frozonic, you really know your way around here. I think I'll just get the Samsung 830 (the one you recommended). It seems to have a lot of good reviews and is only $140 on Amazon right now. As for the cooler, the ZALMAN CNPS12X seems to be really good, but the lack of reviews is what's making me a bit suspicious, and it will really depend on what case I get. Right now I'm down to three cases I like which are also the right size: the Corsair 500R, the Corsair Obisdian 650D, or the NZXT Phantom 410 (the newegg video for this case shows that it fits the Phanteks, btw). Which one would you get for you own build? And finally, why do you think an i5 would be better except for the lower price? I hope this PC will last me at least 4 years, and isn't the i7 better for that? You're really helping me out a lot by answering my questions, thanks.
June 3, 2012 11:49:21 PM

I have a 500R and it is amazing. Tool-less design, great airflow, and superb cable management.
June 6, 2012 11:36:02 AM

I emailed Phanteks and they just confirmed that the CPU cooler will fit in the Phantom 410, and that's what I'm going with. Here is my newegg wishlist, and the best part is that I'm under $1800 even without combo savings. This makes me wonder if I should get a bigger PSU just in case.What do you think? This thread has helped me out a lot, and I'll definitely come back to toms even after I finish my build. Thanks.
!