I wanted to know if I could run this card (BFG GTX 295) without getting a new psu. My PSU is 600 watts at12v at 22A. Now my argument is that in stated below the minimum required is being tested on a i7 cpu while I only have a AMD Athlon 2 duel core cpu at 3.0ghz. Also, I am only running a dvd drive and a sata hdd besides a graphics card and a 250 mm fan on the side of the case. I installed it to make sure it worked and it would not turn on as I dont have the 8 and 6 pin plugs on the psu..... I could get the cables to plug into the regular 4 pins that come off of the psu. All that happened was a red led came on and was steady.... what does this mean? Do I really need to get a psu at 46a or could I get the norm of 25a to 35a? Would this psu work in the even I would have to get one?
680W PCI Express-compliant system power supply with a combined 12V current rating of 46A or more (Minimum system power requirement based on a PC configured with an Intel Core i7 965 Extreme Edition processor)
If the specs of the card say what it needs. Why would you try and get away with much lower specs? Can skimp on a PSU if you like, but it can have dire consequences for your PC. People need to stop being cheap on PSUs and wonder why their stuff doesnt work.
I know my PSU is only rated at 520 watts and delivers 44A on the 12V rail. It sounds like the PSU in your computer is currently complete garbage. Low quality PSU manufacturers regularly advertise high wattage units that have a very low capacity on the 12V rail(this is the only one that's truly important) and it is basically an easy way to trick customers into paying more for a low end PSU. Most of your wattage NEEDS are on the 12V rail(processor + graphics) and so that 600W rating for you PSU is almost certainly coming mostly from the 5V and 3.3V rails which do very little.
So you don't necessarily need a much more expensive power supply, simply a good name brand and an eye on the amperage ratings will get you a good enough PSU. If you tried to hook up the supply you own now it would probably power up and run windows/browse the internet just fine. If however you tried to run a game I would say 99% chance your system would freeze/restart instantly. It wont likely make your current power supply go bad(many people will tell you this will happen) but rather it will cause TOTAL instability when the card tries to draw more power than is available.
I am going to get a kingwin supply that has 750w at 12v/56A.... should do the trick. Even if I did not have the card.... I should upgrade my psu anyway for the future. Also... what is the led light telling me? I assume it was because I only had it plugged into the pci slot on the mb.
Please don't buy that power supply. You are going from crap to more crap. Sorry to be blunt.
Post a budget and we will try to find a GOOD(not great) powersupply in your budget range. www.jonnyguru.com does an excelent job testing and rating power supplys if chose to not take our advice.
There are more "bad" brands than "good" brands when it comes to power supplies. The short answer is that "bad" power supplies typically use cheap internal parts which fail more quickly. (6 months-2 years(bad) vs 4+ easy(good))
The list of good reliable PSU makers is short, but almost everyone agrees Seasonic supplies are some of the best.
I took a look at the psu you were telling me about..... It does not meet the requirement of 46amps it only comes to about 38 on the 12v rail. If the requirement is 680 for it how will this work? Is this because I have a Athlon II cpu. Sorry for all of the questions.... I just want to make sure this would work as a psu is not something I often purchase. The red led being on... I bet thats because it is not getting the power it needs.
My GPU says a minimum of 600W required(480 GTX) and I'm running a 520w PSU. The key is the number of amps available. Their recommendation is always going to be a bit more than the bare minimum necessary to avoid people accidentally getting a PSU that is just a bit too weak.
It's also in an attempt to compensate for people who buy an no name brand that has a weak rating on the 12V rail. While the wattage shows it clearly exceeds the requirements, because of the manufacturers cheapness the PSU is barely going to run a setup that would run fine on a well built PSU. Imagine the number of people who must buy a PSU like yours rated at some wattage, and then it can't even run their components which draw less than the rated wattage.
The moral of the story is that wattage is just marketing, and you want to look at amperages when picking out a power supply. It's like the number of GHZ a processor has, my pentium D 820(dual core) at 4 ghz can't touch my pentium g850(dual core) at 2.9 GHZ. The actual GHZ/MHZ is just marketing because it's not the only variable that effects actual speed.
It was right next to the Antec Earthwatts model I pointed out. It's also right at 60$, has the PCIE connectors you will need, and it's rated at an AWESOME 730 WATTS!!!
So it should be better than the Antec Earthwatts 650W PSU because it's rated for 80 additional watts. Heck it even says SLI/Crossfire ready right on the product title in giant letters.
In fact it is much worse. It utilizes a similar "dual" 12V rail setup, but it only provides 24 amps per rail. That is 48 amps combined........ while it is enough to run your GPU it is a huge amount less than the identically priced Antec Earthwatts. It's 28A less current on the 12V rail to be exact, this is more than EITHER of the 12V rails it already has. Another way to say it is, the Antec Earthwatts offers 71% more current on the only rail that matters.
I feel sorry for all of the people running or trying to run a dual GPU setup on one of these power supplies. Some people wonder why they can't overclock, and maybe it's because they bought a crappy PSU and don't realize that they are lucky it's even running with the 12V amperage it has.
Where does that 730 watt rating come from if it's that much worse than a similarly priced 650 watt power supply? The answer is I thought I knew, but after looking into it further I have no idea where they get those wattage ratings from. After calculating the theoretical wattages offered by each PSU, none of the number match up lol.