Need Help Shooting Artwork with a Canon 1 ds

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

Have you set the white balance?

Easy way to do this is set white balance to auto, and switch off the auto
focus.(Canon AF relys on contrast you going to frame up and focus ona white
surface and the AF will hunt like crazy otherwise)

Get a regular sheet of white paper for your printre,/photocopier whatever
and put that where the subject would be, frame up so that occupies the
centre of the viewfinder but doesn't fill the frame, focus manually, and
fire off a couple of frames under the desired lighting (ie with the strobes)
to get a decent exposure. (i.e. so it isn't flashing on the lcd screen
indicating overexposure).

Then in the menus (not sure where on a 1ds, set the white balance to custom
and select the desired frame, press ok,

Come out of the menus and set the wb on the thumbwheel to custom (check user
manual), switch your auto focus back on and that should solve the colour
shift problem for you.


"bob" <rfj@pacifier.com> wrote in message
news:g6vsd15mki7ipo14esvgu05cb5v71hd6ud@4ax.com...
>I am getting major color shifting. I am using 1000 ws second studio
> flash. I have set the camera to adobe rgb but I am confused by
> statments in the manual that says this camera does not imbed adobe rgb
> it has to be applied?? What are they meaning by that and any other
> help on getting closer color would help. I am using a calibrated
> mointer and I have tested it. That is NOT the problem.
>
> Thanks
>
> bob
>
>

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

On Wed, 20 Jul 2005 21:30:31 +0100, Canongirly wrote:

> Easy way to do this is set white balance to auto, and switch off the auto
> focus.(Canon AF relys on contrast you going to frame up and focus ona white
> surface and the AF will hunt like crazy otherwise)
>
> Get a regular sheet of white paper for your printre,/photocopier whatever
> and put that where the subject would be, frame up so that occupies the
> centre of the viewfinder but doesn't fill the frame, focus manually, and
> fire off a couple of frames under the desired lighting (ie with the strobes)
> to get a decent exposure. (i.e. so it isn't flashing on the lcd screen
> indicating overexposure).

Sounds like a good solution, but it made me wonder if there isn't
a slightly easier way to do this where you don't have to switch off
the auto focus? If you use a black marker to add a few thin
horizontal and vertical lines to the center of the white paper it
might average to a very slight gray, but much lighter than a
standard 18% gray card. Maybe equivalent to a 1% or 2% gray card.
It would allow the auto-focus to operate and wouldn't cause a color
shift. Anyone worried about losing a bit of brightness could
compensate by using a high brilliance sheet of paper, but I don't
think that this would be necessary. Turning the AF off and then
back on again is probably easy enough, but if lighting is varied
often so that resetting the WB is a frequent chore, it might help to
have this custom WB card on hand.

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

On Wed, 20 Jul 2005 22:52:49 +0100, Canongirly wrote:

> I haven't personally tried it but I've read that the plastic top off a
> pringles tin placed over the lens will also work.

I'm sure it would, but wouldn't the AF still cause hunting?


> Dunno how having balck marker pen marks on the white sheet would actually
> effect white balance...might do might not.

You could try a mix of thin red, blue and green lines. And
you're right, it might produce slightly different results, but I
think it there were any it would lie somewhere between negligible
and unmeasurable. Probably comparable to the difference you might
get with two sheets of white paper having slightly different
brightness ratings.


> I shoot a lot of portraits on location so I've just developed a
> workflow method whereby the setting of the white balance is
> part of my set up routine, takes all of 15 secounds to do and
> saves HOURS of post processing correction work later.

No need to change a simple routine that works well. I, on the
other hand shoot pictures infrequently enough so that I occasionally
get bitten by a bad WB. At least when it happens now I take
corrective action almost immediately, as opposed to the mess I made
years ago when I got my first P&S, Canon's Powershot S10. I assume
that I'll eventually settle into enough of a routine that forgetting
to take care of the WB will be a thing of the past. But that means
getting out with the camera more often.

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

> Colin writes ...
>
>RAW mode, at least with Canon cameras, applies nothing to the
>image. Color space, white balance, ISO, are all applied when
>decoding from RAW to TIF or JPG

Agree with all except ISO, which is fixed when you shoot.

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

"Colin D" <ColinD@killspam.127.0.0.1> wrote in message
news:42DEE102.9C9DBAF5@killspam.127.0.0.1...
>
>
> bob wrote:
>>
>> I am getting major color shifting. I am using 1000 ws second studio
>> flash. I have set the camera to adobe rgb but I am confused by
>> statments in the manual that says this camera does not imbed adobe rgb
>> it has to be applied?? What are they meaning by that and any other
>> help on getting closer color would help. I am using a calibrated
>> mointer and I have tested it. That is NOT the problem.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> bob
>
> It was mentioned elsewhere in this thread, but it bears repeating. RAW
> mode, at least with Canon cameras, applies nothing to the image. Color
> space, white balance, ISO, are all applied when decoding from RAW to TIF
> or JPG (ugh!) in Zoombrowser or other similar software - though I prefer
> ZB in spite of its clunkiness because it is tailored specifically for
> Canon cameras.
>
> Colin

ISO huh? Just how wide do you think the dynamic range of the sensor is?

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

>bob writes
>I have not shot raw yet as
>I have not the software. But I will get it and try that!

Bob, you can download a free RAW converter from pixmantec called RSE
that actually does a better job than the Canon software in most ways.

>I also noticed that my camera has
>selectable K temp and defaults to 5200, should I try 55oo to try
>and match my 1000ws defused strobes???

Probably better off with 6500K or using the 'flash' built-in WB
setting. Note that you need to have flash as the main light source by
several stops, ie, if the ambient light is say equal or within two
stops to the flash then you'll have two different colors (3200 or 3400K
from room lights, for example). Mixing the color balance of the light
sources complicates the issue.

Bill