Sign in with
Sign up | Sign in
Your question

Building New $1000 Gaming PC

Last response: in Systems
Share
June 13, 2012 8:49:01 PM

Approximate Purchase Date: next 2 weeks

Budget Range: ~$1000 after rebates

System Usage from Most to Least Important: Gaming, in particular MMO gaming

Parts Not Required: keyboard and mouse

Preferred Website(s) for Parts: newegg or tigerdirect is fine

Country: USA

Parts Preferences: I would prefer Intel CPU, and EVGA GPU

Overclocking: No

SLI or Crossfire: Maybe

Monitor Resolution: 1920x1080


What I'm currently considering is purchasing this barebones kit, a video card and a monitor.
The kit includes:
GIGABYTE GA-Z68AP-D3 Intel Z68 Motherboard
Intel Core i7-2600K
Sony Optiarc AD7280S-OB 24x DVDRW Drive
Corsair Vengeance 8GB DDR3 1600MHz Memory Kit
Seagate Barracuda 1TB
Thermaltake V3 Black Edition Mid Tower
Ultra LSP750 750-Watt Power Supply
All for $684 after rebate
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/ite...

For my video card, I was thinking either:
EVGA GTX 560 2gb
$220
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/ite...

EVGA nVidia GeForce GTX560 FTW+
$189
http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=EV-560FTW

For my monitor:
Acer 23" LCD
$120
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/ite...

Any suggestions you guys have on different parts I should buy is greatly appreciated, this is a first time build for me so my knowledge is limited.
Thanks!

More about : building 1000 gaming

June 13, 2012 8:59:09 PM

No no no no no no - Ultra PSUs are absolute garbage. I've had a couple of them and they fail on me left and right. That's the biggest problem with Tiger Direct premade kits - sure they're cheap - but then they hawk their junk proprietary brands Ultra and Systemax which just produce a lot of junk. Avoid Ultra like the plague - truly awful components.

Not to mention for gaming the 2600K will be useless - go for the i5-3570K instead. If you don't need to overclock then go with the i5-3450 and H77 - that will be a good combination.

Here's what you should get for a $1K build:

Case: Corsair Carbide 300R - $79.99 ($10.00 MIR)
PSU: Seasonic S12 II 620W - $89.99
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H77-DS3H - $119.99
CPU: 3.1GHz Intel Core i5-3450 - $199.99
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 - $46.99
HD: 1TB Samsung Spinpoint F3 - $109.99
Optical: Lite on DVD Burner - $17.99
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 7870 - $359.99 ($15.00 MIR)

Total: $1,024.92 - $45.00 MIR = $979.92

Add the monitor and a Windows license and you're good to go.
m
0
l
June 13, 2012 9:16:56 PM

g-unit1111 said:
No no no no no no - Ultra PSUs are absolute garbage. I've had a couple of them and they fail on me left and right. That's the biggest problem with Tiger Direct premade kits - sure they're cheap - but then they hawk their junk proprietary brands Ultra and Systemax which just produce a lot of junk. Avoid Ultra like the plague - truly awful components.

Not to mention for gaming the 2600K will be useless - go for the i5-3570K instead. If you don't need to overclock then go with the i5-3450 and H77 - that will be a good combination.

Here's what you should get for a $1K build:

Case: Corsair Carbide 300R - $79.99 ($10.00 MIR)
PSU: Seasonic S12 II 620W - $89.99
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H77-DS3H - $119.99
CPU: 3.1GHz Intel Core i5-3450 - $199.99
RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 - $46.99
HD: 1TB Samsung Spinpoint F3 - $109.99
Optical: Lite on DVD Burner - $17.99
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 7870 - $359.99 ($15.00 MIR)

Total: $1,024.92 - $45.00 MIR = $979.92

Add the monitor and a Windows license and you're good to go.



Thanks for the fast reply. Everything you listed looks a lot better than what I was going to get. Are there any ways to cut the price down slighty with those parts, perhaps a smaller hard drive?(500gb is fine) To clarify my first post a bit, I would like to spend roughly $1000 including the cost of the monitor. Do you have any suggestions?
m
0
l
Related resources
June 13, 2012 9:25:01 PM

Tostiganator said:
Thanks for the fast reply. Everything you listed looks a lot better than what I was going to get. Are there any ways to cut the price down slighty with those parts, perhaps a smaller hard drive?(500gb is fine) To clarify my first post a bit, I would like to spend roughly $1000 including the cost of the monitor. Do you have any suggestions?


You could probably drop the video card to the Radeon 7850 - and save $100 there, and the HD price won't alter much - it's a $20 difference between the 500GB and the 1TB - it's more than worth it if you ask me.
m
0
l
June 13, 2012 11:10:46 PM

g-unit1111 said:
You could probably drop the video card to the Radeon 7850 - and save $100 there, and the HD price won't alter much - it's a $20 difference between the 500GB and the 1TB - it's more than worth it if you ask me.


Thanks for the help, I think I will go with the first build and spend a little more extra.
m
0
l
June 13, 2012 11:24:40 PM

How future proof is this build? I, too, am looking for something similar. Is there a huge benefit to get another HD/SSD? (If that even makes sense, pretty green when it comes to this).

Would there be an AMD processor that is equivlalent at lesser cost?
m
0
l
June 13, 2012 11:51:19 PM

firstheadstrong said:
How future proof is this build? I, too, am looking for something similar. Is there a huge benefit to get another HD/SSD? (If that even makes sense, pretty green when it comes to this).

Would there be an AMD processor that is equivlalent at lesser cost?


There currently is no AMD CPU that comes even remotely close to Sandy / Ivy Bridge right now. Supposedly Pile Driver will be using an entirely new socket and manufacturing process but whether or not it will outperform Intel remains to be seen. AM3 is such aging technology that it's incredibly hard to recommend it right now.

You can't really future proof a build - but all the hardware in the build I recommended is current and up to date, and will max out everything you can throw at it for the next 2 - 3 years with no upgrades. You can also swap out the 7870 for the 670 and still come out ahead.

If you want an SSD to go with that build I recommend picking up one of these: Crucial M4 (Marvell controller), Samsung 830 (NAND controller), Mushkin Chronos Deluxe (Sandforce controller) or OCZ Vertex 4 (Indilinx / Marvell controller).
m
0
l
June 14, 2012 3:53:27 PM

Thanks. I guess I should have been more clear on what I meant by "Future Proof". I understand that like buying a car, as soon as you get it off the "lot" it's dated. What I meant, was what you explained - a machine that will still play the newest games for the next 3ish years and still be sufficient at some level for the next 5-6ish.

Is there another case you'd recommend - I just don't like that one, cosemtically. Would prefer a window, but not essential.

Also would like to try and cut cost (around $100.00) to get it at $1,000 including the OS. However, I'd rather spend the extra $100 if the drop-off in quality is really steep(if that makes sense).
m
0
l
June 14, 2012 4:31:36 PM

firstheadstrong said:
Thanks. I guess I should have been more clear on what I meant by "Future Proof". I understand that like buying a car, as soon as you get it off the "lot" it's dated. What I meant, was what you explained - a machine that will still play the newest games for the next 3ish years and still be sufficient at some level for the next 5-6ish.

Is there another case you'd recommend - I just don't like that one, cosemtically. Would prefer a window, but not essential.

Also would like to try and cut cost (around $100.00) to get it at $1,000 including the OS. However, I'd rather spend the extra $100 if the drop-off in quality is really steep(if that makes sense).


If you want a case with a Window - try the Antec 1100: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

And then if you want to trim the cost you could swap your GPU for the Radeon 7850: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

And then add a Windows 7 Home Premium license and you're set.
m
0
l
June 14, 2012 5:45:30 PM

Call this a dumb question, but would this build allow to me to use my 42 inch tv as a monitor through HDMI?

And how much is the video card drop off from the 7870 to the 7850? Would it really hurt me to downgrade that now (in a year or two)?
m
0
l
June 14, 2012 6:05:53 PM

firstheadstrong said:
Call this a dumb question, but would this build allow to me to use my 42 inch tv as a monitor through HDMI?

And how much is the video card drop off from the 7870 to the 7850? Would it really hurt me to downgrade that now (in a year or two)?


Not really the 7870 and 7850 run off the same engine - the 7870 is a higher performance model that's on par with the GTX 580. The 7850 runs on par with the GTX 570 and in some cases the 580 but not all.

All modern video cards now have HDMI output so all you need to hook your PC to a TV is an HDMI cable - I use mine that way and it works quite well.
m
0
l
June 14, 2012 6:28:45 PM

Thanks. Any huge benefit to upgrading to a better cooling system/fans? Probably won't attempt overclocking as I don't know what I am doing nor the benfit of doing so.
m
0
l
June 14, 2012 6:36:34 PM

firstheadstrong said:
Thanks. Any huge benefit to upgrading to a better cooling system/fans? Probably won't attempt overclocking as I don't know what I am doing nor the benfit of doing so.


The main benefit there is overclocking but if you're not going to overclock - a 200mm fan on top and a 120mm fan on the side will dramatically lower system temps.
m
0
l
June 15, 2012 6:41:36 PM

Okay, I got a couple more questions.

1) I see this motherboard recommended a lot: ASRock Extreme4 Z77 ATX LGA 1155 Motherboard ($134.99)

Is this one much better than the suggested Gigabyte GA-H77-DS3H ($99.99)?

2) I don't really understand the point of having a SDD and a HD. Would you care to explain the benefit?

3) Would it be more benefectial to spend the extra $200-$300 to upgrade the CPUfrom the 15 3.1 ($189.99) to the I7 3.4 ($307.77) and/or to upgrade GPU from the 7850 ($249.99) to the 7870 ($349.99).

Currently I am leaning towards the I5 and the 7850, but if the extra 200 now will save me greatly in 4-5 years, it's something I guess I should consider, right?

4) Also considering this case: Cooler Master HAF 922

http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Tower-Case-RC-922M-...

It's $25 more than the Corsair, but seems nicer to the 'naked' eye.

5) Is the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO Cooler worth it for this build or rely on the s tock case fans?

I have have Amazon Premium (or Prime or whatever), so most components are free shipping if I get them from there.

So this is my template (excluding the considerations above):
Component Brand Price MIR Site
Case Corsair Carbide 300R $75.84 Amazon
PSU Seasonic S12 II 620W $93.73 NewEgg
MOBO Gigabyte GA-H77-DS3H $99.99 Amazon
CPU 3.1GHz Intel Core i5-3450 $189.99 Amazon
RAM G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 $50.40 NewEgg
HD 1TB Samsung Spinpoint F3 $105.99 Amazon
Optical Lite on DVD Burner $20.28 TigerDirect
GPU Sapphire Radeon HD 7850 $249.00 ($15.00) Amazon
OS Windows 7 $99.99
Total $985.21
Optional Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO Cooler $34.99


Thanks for all the help - I hope to order my parts today/this weekend and begin the my journey on building my first PC...wish me luck, I am going to need it. lol.
m
0
l
June 15, 2012 9:02:41 PM

And anything else I may be missing :) 
m
0
l
June 15, 2012 9:31:53 PM

You can trim a little bit off your budget but still get great parts in a few areas.

PSU: Corsair TX650 $81 Amazon
Case: Rosewill Challenger $40 for father's day weekend at Newegg, its in their email deals
HDD: Seagate 500GB $75 Amazon
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 8GB $50 Amazon, just to keep the Amazon theme lol

Everything else looks good. You can't really OC with the H77 mobos, so getting an aftermarket cooler isn't really necessary. I'm a cooling nut, so I recommend them, but its a great gift for a friend or family member to get you later on down the road because it is a cheap upgrade.

The case is fantastic. It doesn't have front USB 3.0, hence the ridiculously low price, but it has plenty of room for all of your components and fits the Hyper 212. I just finished my first build with it and can't recommend it enough for the price. I don't do anything with the USB 3.0 personally, and my motherboard has it on the rear panel, so I'm not really too worried about it.

As far as HDD space, that's a personal preference, but the 500GB version is a decent price and, mobo allowing at least, you can always add another for a RAID 0 configuration later. For now I would use the savings and buy a boot SSD. Having an SSD as a boot drive will give you boot and shutdown times in the 20 second area. Get a big enough SSD or two and games and programs all load basically instantly. Its amazing the difference a boot drive makes to the overall system. I was a doubter until I installed one and I don't think I could do without an SSD as a boot drive at the least in the future.

Also, if you have an older computer that you can gut for parts, you might be able to save a few bucks on the Optical Drive and maybe even the OS and HDD like I did. Just a thought.
m
0
l
June 16, 2012 12:35:43 AM

firstheadstrong said:
Okay, I got a couple more questions.

1) I see this motherboard recommended a lot: ASRock Extreme4 Z77 ATX LGA 1155 Motherboard ($134.99)

Is this one much better than the suggested Gigabyte GA-H77-DS3H ($99.99)?

2) I don't really understand the point of having a SDD and a HD. Would you care to explain the benefit?

3) Would it be more benefectial to spend the extra $200-$300 to upgrade the CPUfrom the 15 3.1 ($189.99) to the I7 3.4 ($307.77) and/or to upgrade GPU from the 7850 ($249.99) to the 7870 ($349.99).

Currently I am leaning towards the I5 and the 7850, but if the extra 200 now will save me greatly in 4-5 years, it's something I guess I should consider, right?

4) Also considering this case: Cooler Master HAF 922

http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Tower-Case-RC-922M-...

It's $25 more than the Corsair, but seems nicer to the 'naked' eye.

5) Is the Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO Cooler worth it for this build or rely on the s tock case fans?

I have have Amazon Premium (or Prime or whatever), so most components are free shipping if I get them from there.

So this is my template (excluding the considerations above):
Component Brand Price MIR Site
Case Corsair Carbide 300R $75.84 Amazon
PSU Seasonic S12 II 620W $93.73 NewEgg
MOBO Gigabyte GA-H77-DS3H $99.99 Amazon
CPU 3.1GHz Intel Core i5-3450 $189.99 Amazon
RAM G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 $50.40 NewEgg
HD 1TB Samsung Spinpoint F3 $105.99 Amazon
Optical Lite on DVD Burner $20.28 TigerDirect
GPU Sapphire Radeon HD 7850 $249.00 ($15.00) Amazon
OS Windows 7 $99.99
Total $985.21
Optional Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO Cooler $34.99


Thanks for all the help - I hope to order my parts today/this weekend and begin the my journey on building my first PC...wish me luck, I am going to need it. lol.


1. The Asrock board is the board of choice if you plan to overclock. If you don't plan to overclock than the Gigabyte board is plenty fine. Just make sure that it's not an mATX board because you don't want to limit your expansion options.

2. The SSD helps improve load and system boot times, but does not improve in areas of general storage. And that's mainly due to the incredibly high cost per GB of larger SSDs. That's where the secondary storage solution comes in.

3. If gaming is the primary focus, it's far more worth it to upgrade the GPU than it is the CPU. On a gaming system the GPU is one of the most important parts of the build and the right one can often make or break the build's performance and you don't want to skimp or compromise if you can help it.

4. Your call. I personally like the cable management of the Corsair better than Cooler Master but that's my personal preference.

5. The Hyper 212 Evo is a CPU fan, not a stock fan, and you only need it if you plan to overclock. If you don't then you can rely on the stock fan that's included with your CPU.
m
0
l
June 17, 2012 5:24:20 AM

Okay, thanks for the advice. I made a couple of decisions and ordered from Amazon. Could you guys take a look and tell me if you see any incompatibilities or anything I may have missed:

MOBO: Gigabyte Intel H77 LGA 1155 AMD CrossFireX DVI/HDMI Dual UEFI BIOS ATX Motherboard GA-H77-DS3H

PSU: Corsair Enthusiast Series 650-Watt 80 Plus Bronze Certified Power Supply Compatible with Intel Core i3, i5, i7 and AMD platforms - CMPSU-650TXV2

RAM: Corsair Vengeance Blue 8 GB (2X4 GB) PC3-12800 1600mHz DDR3 240-Pin SDRAM Dual Channel Memory Kit CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B

CPU: Intel Core i5 3450 Processor 3.1 4 BX80637I53450

GPU: Sapphire Radeon HD 7870 GHZ OC 2 GB DDR5 HDMI/DVI-I/Dual Mini DP PCI-Express Graphics Card 11199-03-20G

Optical: Lite-On LightScribe 24X SATA DVD+/-RW Dual Layer Drive IHAS424-98 - Retail (Black)

HDD: Samsung Desktop Class Spinpoint F3 1 TB SATA 3.0 Gb-s 32 MB Cache 3.5-Inch Internal Bare-OEM Drives, HD103SJ

Rosewill CHALLENGER Black Gaming ATX Mid Tower Computer Case

OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium (got he full retail version, since I am building the CPU, in case I got faulty parts didnt want the $100 dollar version to be a paper weight).

Total: $1122.98 including shipping and tax - all parts from amazon (prime).


I am still debating whether or not to order an SSD (120GB) for another $120.00. Any brand recommendations for best cost, best reliability?
m
0
l
June 17, 2012 6:33:09 AM

firstheadstrong said:
Okay, thanks for the advice. I made a couple of decisions and ordered from Amazon. Could you guys take a look and tell me if you see any incompatibilities or anything I may have missed:

MOBO: Gigabyte Intel H77 LGA 1155 AMD CrossFireX DVI/HDMI Dual UEFI BIOS ATX Motherboard GA-H77-DS3H

PSU: Corsair Enthusiast Series 650-Watt 80 Plus Bronze Certified Power Supply Compatible with Intel Core i3, i5, i7 and AMD platforms - CMPSU-650TXV2

RAM: Corsair Vengeance Blue 8 GB (2X4 GB) PC3-12800 1600mHz DDR3 240-Pin SDRAM Dual Channel Memory Kit CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B

CPU: Intel Core i5 3450 Processor 3.1 4 BX80637I53450

GPU: Sapphire Radeon HD 7870 GHZ OC 2 GB DDR5 HDMI/DVI-I/Dual Mini DP PCI-Express Graphics Card 11199-03-20G

Optical: Lite-On LightScribe 24X SATA DVD+/-RW Dual Layer Drive IHAS424-98 - Retail (Black)

HDD: Samsung Desktop Class Spinpoint F3 1 TB SATA 3.0 Gb-s 32 MB Cache 3.5-Inch Internal Bare-OEM Drives, HD103SJ

Rosewill CHALLENGER Black Gaming ATX Mid Tower Computer Case

OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium (got he full retail version, since I am building the CPU, in case I got faulty parts didnt want the $100 dollar version to be a paper weight).

Total: $1122.98 including shipping and tax - all parts from amazon (prime).


I am still debating whether or not to order an SSD (120GB) for another $120.00. Any brand recommendations for best cost, best reliability?


That all looks like a winner to me. That video card is the same one I have and I love it - I wish I had got the GTX 670 but this one is just as good. I can play games like Skyrim and BF3 on ultra settings with no problems.

The OS isn't going to matter if you get the OEM or the full version, it won't malfunction on you. I've been using OEM versions dating all the way back to Windows 2000 and I've never run into a single issue with any of them. The difference between the two versions - if you get the OEM version you're on your own for technical support. If you get the full version you can get support from Microsoft.
m
0
l
June 22, 2012 5:14:50 PM

MOBO: Gigabyte Intel H77 LGA 1155 AMD CrossFireX DVI/HDMI Dual UEFI BIOS ATX Motherboard GA-H77-DS3H

PSU: Corsair Enthusiast Series 650-Watt 80 Plus Bronze Certified Power Supply Compatible with Intel Core i3, i5, i7 and AMD platforms - CMPSU-650TXV2

RAM: Corsair Vengeance Blue 8 GB (2X4 GB) PC3-12800 1600mHz DDR3 240-Pin SDRAM Dual Channel Memory Kit CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B

CPU: Intel Core i5 3450 Processor 3.1 4 BX80637I53450

GPU: Sapphire Radeon HD 7870 GHZ OC 2 GB DDR5 HDMI/DVI-I/Dual Mini DP PCI-Express Graphics Card 11199-03-20G

Optical: Lite-On LightScribe 24X SATA DVD+/-RW Dual Layer Drive IHAS424-98 - Retail (Black)

HDD: Samsung Desktop Class Spinpoint F3 1 TB SATA 3.0 Gb-s 32 MB Cache 3.5-Inch Internal Bare-OEM Drives, HD103SJ

Rosewill CHALLENGER Black Gaming ATX Mid Tower Computer Case

OS: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium (got he full retail version, since I am building the CPU, in case I got faulty parts didnt want the $100 dollar version to be a paper weight).

Just for an update: This build is now up and running.

Ordered nearly all of the parts on Friday Night (nearly Saturday morning) with everything, ecept the case estimated for Monday! On Sunday I realized I shipped the HDD to my parents house (which isn't drivable) and amazon wouldn’t let me change the address even though it hadn't shipped yet. So I re-ordered. The case came Tuesday and the HDD and Diablo 3 that mg g/f secretly ordered on Wednesday.

I began building Wednesday hoping to be done in an hour or too...well I had a few hiccups.

1) Don't listen to the directions that tell you you can put the back panel input cover on AFTER your put the motherboard on. I had everything (and I mean everythign done - attached and screwed in) only for that cover to not fit past the MOBO. Had to undo most of everything to get that stupid thing on.

2) Had a hard time getting the CPU fan push pins to lock into the MOBO.

3) When I was “done” it wouldn’t start. After reading some tech support and having a friend help me a little. I did notice that the color coding on the Power, Reset, and HDD light buttons is incorrect. So don’t pay attention to the colors. I had these in the wrong place. However that was not my issue. After a few hours of cursing, researching, and wanting to smash it all to hell. I found the problem. My g/f was plugging in all the fans to the MOBO/PSU. However she plugged in the PSU into a fan port because the PSU has a fan. I didn’t catch that. It’s not really her fault as she didn’t know what she was doing (less so than me). As soon as I removed that plug and gave my CPU power – the power button worked and all cylnders were firing (all fans on – blue light/red light on case working and the BIOS was showing on TV).

After that I was able to set up some stuff in the BIOS and start the OS/Driver/Application install process.

A couple things to not about this build
1) Hard to really have any neat cable management with this PSU/Case.
2) Case seemed a little small for everything I had going in, but could have just been me being a new builder
3) Having a nice LED flashlight and magnetic screwdrivers is helpful 1000%
4) PUT THE BACK BANEL COVER ON BEFORE YOUR MOTHERBOARD
5) CPU Installation instructions were awful, actually most of the instructions were awful. For a first time builder, the GPU instructions were laughable. “Plug it in” is pretty much all it said.
6) I am not too fond of playing D3 on my 42 inch TV. I find the text really hard to read or read at all – at times. I’ve tried varying resolutions with not much luck. I may just have to get a monitor. (Maybe I have a bad setting beyond the res.) Resoultion at 1080 is too hard read outside of D3 as well. Any tips?

Again, thanks for the advice. So far it has been a great experience (except the 2 hours I was banging my head against the wall).
m
0
l
!