New Build wont power on

[Tigerbite]

I just built a new computer and can't get it to power on. I've built a few in the past and never had this problem. I've checked all the plugs and everything looks good. The only thing I can think of, is if one of my new parts is dead, but I have no way to test them.

What do I do? Please don't link me to the post that says "Have you tried these 1million and 1 things yet?" Yes, I've tried everything, which leads me to think that one of my parts is dead, but seeing as how I have no other parts to swap out with them to see where the problem lies, I have no clue what to do! Suggestions please! T_T

-------------------------
i7 2600k
Hyper 212+ Cooler
ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 LGA 1155 Intel Z68
GIGABYTE ATI Radeon HD6850
Corsair Vengeance Blue 8 GB (2X4 GB)
Antec 430w psu
2 HDD & 1 DVD

 

[Jonny1987]

You sure that 430W PSU can crank out enough juice to power all those components?

Otherwise, I just recently had a similar problem. Turns out my 24 pin to the motherboard wasn't seated properly, and I'd wired my front panel headers backwards (the joys of working upside down with limited room).

 

[andystanley]

Do any fans start spinning? or does nothing happen at all?
If none of the fans spin then I believe your psu is dead. If They do spin,yet you get no action on screen or no beeps, let me know.

 

[Tigerbite]

My power supply makes a very small sound like it attempts to kick on, but nothing at all happens. Yes, the 430w psu can handle everything at stock speeds.

My power supply is from my old computer which worked fine, I don't see how it would die in the process of swapping out so I don't believe that's the problem either, but I could be wrong.

 

[Tigerbite]

Okay, so I just hooked up the power supply to my old system (mobo/video card/cpu/ ram) and still no power. I'm guessing my psu is dead? There are no LED lights coming on either mobo.

My question is, how would the power supply die like this (assuming that's the problem.) Also, from my research (which could be wrong), my 430w psu should have been able to handle what I got. If it couldn't, would that actually kill the psu?

 

[andystanley]

Okay, so I just hooked up the power supply to my old system (mobo/video card/cpu/ ram) and still no power. I'm guessing my psu is dead? There are no LED lights coming on either mobo.

My question is, how would the power supply die like this (assuming that's the problem.) Also, from my research (which could be wrong), my 430w psu should have been able to handle what I got. If it couldn't, would that actually kill the psu?

Possibly ESD. Did you discharge yourself before touching your components? Did you wear an electrostatic wristband?
Yes 430w should be able to handle it at stock clocks,but just barely. I'd get a 550w at least next time

 

[smorizio]

make sure both 24 and 4/8 pin power is connected and thta your not shorting on the mb..or power supply.

 

[Tigerbite]

Yes, I discharged myself before working on my computer and I also always wear an electrostatic wristband. What's the least amount of stuff I can have connected and still have my computer power on (psu/cpu? or do I need other stuff connected). I'm just trying to find out if it's my psu that somehow died before I go out and buy another one.

As far as I can tell everything is connected right and is pushed in all the way (including the 24 and 8 pin).

How would I know if I'm shorting on the mobo or psu? (not sure what you really mean there.)

Thanks.

 

[JackNaylorPE]

my 430w psu should have been able to handle what I got. If it couldn't, would that actually kill the psu?

http://www.amd.com/us/products/desktop/graphics/amd-radeon-hd-6000/hd-6850/Pages/amd-radeon-hd-6850-overview.aspx#3

500 Watt or greater power supply recommended
Certified power supplies are recommended. Refer to http://ati.amd.com/certifiedPSU for a list of Certified products

Which of the following ya think is true ?

Antec makes superb PSU's.....
Antec makes very good PSU's.....
Antec makes good PSU's.....
Antec makes poor PSU's.....

Answer = All of the above. Just like when Asus spun off Asrock to compete on the commodity OEM low price market, most manufacturers make products to fit several market niche's. If it's a Antec Basiq, that's their economy line and Id toss it regardless of whether it powers up.

Since there's very little difference in proice between the 650 watters and the lesser sizes, I'd opt for a replacement 650 watt unnit

Corsair 650 V2 ($61 after $20 MIR and 10% off promo code)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139020

XFX Core Edition ($82)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207014

 

[Tigerbite]

This is from one of my other topics:

You have two cross checks. You can google your part names with TDP and get their approximate wattage, add it up and add 50% or you can look at tests run with a HD6850 and an I7-2600K.

TDP i7 = 95W, with overclock 130w.
TDP 6850 = 127W, with OC = 150W.

Your system will peak at about 300W of 12v, so a good 400w PSU would work, a 500W is fine.

cross check: "System Wattage with GPU in FULL Stress = 278W" http://www.guru3d.com/article/radeon-hd-6850-6870-review/10

But get a quality power supply. Here is an expensive bad one - "750 W power supply that burns if you try to pull more than 450 W from it." http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/977 And a cheap good one. $40 Antec VP450 http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Antec-VP450-Power-Supply-Review/1487 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371045&Tpk=antec%20vp450

Aside: The balance of your system is tipped heavily to CPU. Instead of $140 HD6850 + $300 i7 = $440, consider $200 GTX 560 Ti + $220 i5 = $440 and much faster gaming machine, same speed productivity machine. Or $240 HD7850 + i5 = $480.

edit: "Our tests demonstrate fairly little difference between a $225 LGA 1155 Core i5-2500K and a $1000 LGA 2011 Core i7-3960X, even when three-way graphics card configurations are involved. It turns out that memory bandwidth and PCIe throughput don't hold back the performance of existing Sandy Bridge machines. " http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gaming-cpu-review-overclock,3106-4.html

Which is why I believe the 430w should have been able to handle it (despite the fact the AMD site "recommends" a 500w psu.)

 

[smorizio]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqqxqE6iswU
if you did not use those brass standoff the mb will tuch the case and short out..fan may twitch but that it...

 

[Tigerbite]

Okay, so I just did the "paperclip" test. Doing that, the power supply turned on as did the case fan that I had hooked up to it.

So now I'm guessing it's the motherboard? But my question is this. If the power supply doesn't have enough watts will it just keep the mobo/computer from booting? Or is it pretty much that the mobo is dead? Actually, I tried running it without the gpu connected and still nothing happened so I'm guessing it's a bad mobo or it shorted or something.

Next thing is, these brass standoffs? I've never seen or used them before in any of my computer builds and nothing has ever happened before. Looking at the bottom side of the mobo, I do see small plastic tips (not sure what they're for, but maybe to keep the actual base of the mobo from touching the metal?) And also, with the way the base plate of the cpu fan is set up also keeps the motherboard from touching the metal of the case?

What steps should I take in trying to find out if the motherboard is the problem?

 

[Tigerbite]

Come to think about it...why is my old mobo/cpu/ram/gpu not booting if my power supply is still working .....

ARGH, HEADACHE

 

[Tigerbite]

Hmm, I just realized my computer actually has the eXtreme Power Plus 500w psu in it, not the antec 430w ... (don't remember when I did that, haha.)

GAHHH, I'm about ready to just take it to a shop and be like fix it >=|

 

[Tigerbite]

Just popped in my new 600w power supply and still nothing. Gonna have a local pc repair place take a look at it. They said they'll find the problem for $25 which seems like a pretty decent price. I hope I did something wrong and they can fix it on the spot. If the mobo is dead, ASRock is gonna get an earful from me for making me waste countless hours of my life trying to fix it myself :|

 

[Tigerbite]

PC repair place couldn't pin point the problem either. Although they did tell me my new 600w psu was dead. They used one of theirs and they still couldn't get anything to happen and suggested I RMA the motherboard, so I did.

*10 days later*

Yay, new motherboard, new power supply! (I already tested the psu and it's working fine.)

I connect everything, POWER ON!!!! Nothing. NOTHING AT ALL. Not even the LED on the motherboard is coming on. Someone has got to know what is going on. There's no way I received 2 dead mobos in a row.

Any ideas or thoughts would be nice. I'm going to call ASRock tomorrow and see if they can help. If I can't get this fixed this week, I'll be returning their motherboard and getting one from a different company in hopes that ASRock just sucks. (My first time using one of their motherboards and I'm not a happy camper.) >=[

 

[UVB076]

Have you tried turning your computer on and then off again?

 

[TheBigTroll]

did you short your board again?

did you do as uvb076 said?

did you plug everything in properly?

 

[Tigerbite]

How would I know if I shorted the board other than it not working?

I even bought the brass standoffs (which I've never used before and never had a problem.)

I've reseated every thing at least a dozen times. It's like this motherboard refuses to take in any power or something. What in the world?!

 

[olpal]

May be a good reason why your 2 MB's have come up DOA

Only 1 time have i seen a build with no standoffs, to prevent shorts.
It was a retail toaster like De__, H_, or the off brand that i can't think of.. Anyway they had their MB's made proprietary for their cases, they had plastic risers built in MB holes... I just told the guy he couldn't modify it.
If i rememer right the I/o back panel wasn't even standard for aftermarket parts..
...
Good Luck
ps; what kind of case are you using ?

 

[Tigerbite]

Well I've built quite a few computers over the past 8 years and I've never had standoffs (to be honest never knew about them and never saw them in any of my cases and they never came with any parts I ordered.) and I never had any problems.

I put the standoffs in before the 2nd motherboard. Here's the case I've been using for the past 4 years (2 previous builds, this current one will be my 3rd using this case.)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811208027

I may have received 2 DOAs, but that just seems highly unlikely to me. I fear something might be causing it to short somehow. Any ideas on this? Like I said, I had the brass standoffs the second go around. I'm using the same outlet that my other computers were plugged into. I even used my original psu from my old working computer before buying a new one.

What else could be causing a short (assuming it wasn't a DOA)?

 

[TheBigTroll]

the board touching anything that is metal such as the case. if the brass standoffs do not have a insulator at the bottom, then most likely the electricity is flowing through the case and causing the board to short

 

[Tigerbite]

Just tested it out of the case on the antishock plastic. Still didn't do anything. Even went as low as only having the psu, cpu/heat sink hooked up. :|

 

[olpal]

After looking into this tigerbite, i can see that indeed the case you're using is built like the Toaster [propriatary] cases that i've seen in the past.. So that should not be your problem..


An old trick is to have the M/B out of the case, & with no memory installed, power supply hooked up as well as a old case speaker..
Do a power on & the M/B should squeal through the case speaker
If not then the M/B is most likely dead.