Tom's Hardware > Forum > Digital Camera > Digital Camera General > Sunpak 383 or 5000 Vs Vivitar 285HV for EOS 300D

Sunpak 383 or 5000 Vs Vivitar 285HV for EOS 300D

Forum Digital Camera : Digital Camera General - Sunpak 383 or 5000 Vs Vivitar 285HV for EOS 300D

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Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

 

I need a flash for my EOS 300D. I don't object to the 420 or 550, but I
can't blow $300 or even $150 on a flash. Else, I'd consider also the Sigma
ST 500 Super or whatever as well.

The PZ5000AF was the main one I was after, but someone who used it with a
300D and a 20D said it misread ISO information from several 20Ds he tried it
on (his included) and even manually entering the ISO on the flash didn't fix
it. It worked beautifully on his 300D. I say this because the POSSIBILITY
exists I may go for the 20D one day, maybe like a year from now when it's
selling for $650-700 the way the 10D is now.

A local camera shop is selling the 383 Super for $40 (plus tax) used, and it
has some features I like

* swivel head as well as bounce
* GN of 120 which is pretty good
* It recycled fast with my IC3 4 AAs
* Not bad size


But the Vivitar 285HV would offer a zoom head and wider coverage (28-105mm
vs 35mm for the 383). That said, its head doesn't swivel and of course the
5000 synchronizes its zooming action with the lens automatically. (The 383
doesn't zoom at all.)

I am NOT posting this to bash E-TTL at all. I do know that one guy who
contacted me in reply to my "WTB" post at Fred Miranda (I was asking for the
5000 or the Canon 380EX) he was the one that mentioned the 5000's
compatibilty problems with the 20D. He also said that E-TTL is capable of
better results but that auto gives good results much quicker, and worked
better for him for weddings (which I aspire to do on the part-time amateur
level possibly).

I do know that I tried out the 383 in the store, taking a shot of the whole
room and it did fine except that it blew out an object that was about 3 ft
away. Another shot I did with the 580EX did not cause this blowing out.

I need a guide number of at least 120 at 50mm with ISO 100. (Did I already
mention that?)

Again--long-term, I know that buying a 580EX would be THE thing to do, but
at $350-400, no way. I can't even part with $150 for a 420EX right now.
Besides, 85% of my shots at this point involve no flash--not even the
built-in one.

Tips?

LRH

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Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

 

In article <1ejFe.19678$Eo.10383@fed1read04>, noone@noone.net says...
> I need a flash for my EOS 300D. I don't object to the 420 or 550, but I
> can't blow $300 or even $150 on a flash. Else, I'd consider also the Sigma
> ST 500 Super or whatever as well.
>
> The PZ5000AF was the main one I was after, but someone who used it with a
> 300D and a 20D said it misread ISO information from several 20Ds he tried it
> on (his included) and even manually entering the ISO on the flash didn't fix
> it. It worked beautifully on his 300D. I say this because the POSSIBILITY
> exists I may go for the 20D one day, maybe like a year from now when it's
> selling for $650-700 the way the 10D is now.
>
> A local camera shop is selling the 383 Super for $40 (plus tax) used, and it
> has some features I like
>
> * swivel head as well as bounce
> * GN of 120 which is pretty good
> * It recycled fast with my IC3 4 AAs
> * Not bad size
>
>
> But the Vivitar 285HV would offer a zoom head and wider coverage (28-105mm
> vs 35mm for the 383). That said, its head doesn't swivel and of course the
> 5000 synchronizes its zooming action with the lens automatically. (The 383
> doesn't zoom at all.)
>
> I am NOT posting this to bash E-TTL at all. I do know that one guy who
> contacted me in reply to my "WTB" post at Fred Miranda (I was asking for the
> 5000 or the Canon 380EX) he was the one that mentioned the 5000's
> compatibilty problems with the 20D. He also said that E-TTL is capable of
> better results but that auto gives good results much quicker, and worked
> better for him for weddings (which I aspire to do on the part-time amateur
> level possibly).
>
> I do know that I tried out the 383 in the store, taking a shot of the whole
> room and it did fine except that it blew out an object that was about 3 ft
> away. Another shot I did with the 580EX did not cause this blowing out.
>
> I need a guide number of at least 120 at 50mm with ISO 100. (Did I already
> mention that?)
>
> Again--long-term, I know that buying a 580EX would be THE thing to do, but
> at $350-400, no way. I can't even part with $150 for a 420EX right now.
> Besides, 85% of my shots at this point involve no flash--not even the
> built-in one.
>
> Tips?
>
> LRH
>
>


I have used the Sunpak 383 on my 300D for over a thousand pictures since
April.

Once you get used to setting the camera to match the flash you can take shots
with it you would never get (out of camera) with any of the "auto" flashes
designed for the camera. The Canon Digital Rebel seems to want to under
expose with the E-TTL flashes and you have to compensate for it from shot to
shot. (I use the flash in manual and use the slide switch on the flash to
control the amount of light).

In the horse show arena, for moving subjects I usually shoot with shutter @
125 to 200 (max sync for the Rebel) and adjust apeture for apropriate DOF.
ISO setings are usually ISO 100 to 400, and even sometimes 800.

I just watch the exposure indication in the viewfinder and the farther right
the indicator is, the farther right I slide the flashes power slide switch.
It sounds simplistic, but it works in practice. With my subjects at 20 to 50
feet distance, and the light level at the point where you could just barely
read a newspaper, I get fairly good exposures most of the time.


What Im actually driving at here is this:

If I always have to set some compensation to shoot with the flash, then I
feel I may as well shoot with a manual flash to begin with. In practice I
find I get more consistant results.



--
Larry Lynch
Mystic, Ct.

Reply to Larry

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

 

Vivitar 285HV's here. Used off camera with the remote sensor cords.

"Larry R Harrison Jr" <noone@noone.net> wrote in message
news:1ejFe.19678$Eo.10383@fed1read04...
>I need a flash for my EOS 300D. I don't object to the 420 or 550, but I
> can't blow $300 or even $150 on a flash. Else, I'd consider also the Sigma
> ST 500 Super or whatever as well.
>
> The PZ5000AF was the main one I was after, but someone who used it with a
> 300D and a 20D said it misread ISO information from several 20Ds he tried
> it
> on (his included) and even manually entering the ISO on the flash didn't
> fix
> it. It worked beautifully on his 300D. I say this because the POSSIBILITY
> exists I may go for the 20D one day, maybe like a year from now when it's
> selling for $650-700 the way the 10D is now.
>
> A local camera shop is selling the 383 Super for $40 (plus tax) used, and
> it
> has some features I like
>
> * swivel head as well as bounce
> * GN of 120 which is pretty good
> * It recycled fast with my IC3 4 AAs
> * Not bad size
>
>
> But the Vivitar 285HV would offer a zoom head and wider coverage (28-105mm
> vs 35mm for the 383). That said, its head doesn't swivel and of course the
> 5000 synchronizes its zooming action with the lens automatically. (The 383
> doesn't zoom at all.)
>
> I am NOT posting this to bash E-TTL at all. I do know that one guy who
> contacted me in reply to my "WTB" post at Fred Miranda (I was asking for
> the
> 5000 or the Canon 380EX) he was the one that mentioned the 5000's
> compatibilty problems with the 20D. He also said that E-TTL is capable of
> better results but that auto gives good results much quicker, and worked
> better for him for weddings (which I aspire to do on the part-time amateur
> level possibly).
>
> I do know that I tried out the 383 in the store, taking a shot of the
> whole
> room and it did fine except that it blew out an object that was about 3 ft
> away. Another shot I did with the 580EX did not cause this blowing out.
>
> I need a guide number of at least 120 at 50mm with ISO 100. (Did I already
> mention that?)
>
> Again--long-term, I know that buying a 580EX would be THE thing to do, but
> at $350-400, no way. I can't even part with $150 for a 420EX right now.
> Besides, 85% of my shots at this point involve no flash--not even the
> built-in one.
>
> Tips?
>
> LRH
>
>

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

 

Can the 383 Super be slaved as is?

LRH

Reply to Anonymous
- 0 +

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital (More info?)

 

In article <FruFe.20124$Eo.2313@fed1read04>, noone@noone.net says...
> Can the 383 Super be slaved as is?
>
> LRH
>
>
>
The 383 can be slaved with an RF slave system or a $10 slave unit(with light)
from the local camera store, it does NOT have built in slave facilities.


--
Larry Lynch
Mystic, Ct.

Reply to Larry
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