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Looking for a case that can fit a Liquid Cooler

I recently discovered to my disappointment my case won't fit my liquid cooler.

So I am looking for a case that can fit my:

http://www.microcenter.com/product/392415/Water_20_Performer_Closed-Loop_Liquid_CPU_Cooler

My current case actually ended up not having the clearance for the radiator on the back. So I had to use the stock HSF. :(

I am looking for a case that is preferably, mid tower, so I don't need PSU extensions on the mobo cords. Though a full might work as well. I need to be able to fit my radiator in back.

Any and all suggestions are welcome, though I don't wish to spend a huge amount. Maybe spend $100? A little more if it catches my personal attention, so shoot me your ideas. Please though no $200-$300 one's though. Even if they catch my attention, I couldn't spend that much. Thanks for the input!
18 answers Last reply Best Answer
More about looking case liquid cooler
  1. Oh yeah, thought I'd also say it needs to fit my gpu. A GTX 660 TI
    Length: 10" or roughly 254MM
  2. I'm starting to see I may need to go full tower, so full tower or mid tower. It doesn't really matter. Thanks.
  3. Best answer
    dragonwolf8504 said:
    Great case and yes it will fit ;)
  4. What case do you have now?
    It seems unusual to me that such a cooler will not fit in any normal case.
    Where/why does it not fit?

    What size motherboard do you have? M-ATX, ATX, ITX?

    My take would be to return the cooler in favor of a good air cooler. Air is just as effective in a decent case.
    Air is also quieter, cheaper, and more reliable.

    Your graphics card is not unusually long. It will fit any case.

    If you need a case, look at the Antec 100/200/300 series cases, all for <$60.

    For a cooler, the $30 cm hyper212 will do the job.
    You may give up the last 1-2 multipliers in your overclock.
    The Noctua NH-D14 or phanteks @$80 is as good as it gets.
  5. Here some other cases to look at

    Case:Rosewill BLACKHAWK Gaming ATX Mid Tower Computer Case, come with Five Fans, window side panel, top HDD dock
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147107#top


    Case:Antec Nine Hundred Two V3 Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Gaming Case
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129097#top

    Case:Antec Eleven Hundred Black Super Mid Tower Computer Case
    http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811129178#top
  6. geofelt said:
    What case do you have now?
    It seems unusual to me that such a cooler will not fit in any normal case.
    Where/why does it not fit?

    What size motherboard do you have? M-ATX, ATX, ITX?

    My take would be to return the cooler in favor of a good air cooler. Air is just as effective in a decent case.
    Air is also quieter, cheaper, and more reliable.

    Your graphics card is not unusually long. It will fit any case.

    If you need a case, look at the Antec 100/200/300 series cases, all for <$60.

    For a cooler, the $30 cm hyper212 will do the job.
    You may give up the last 1-2 multipliers in your overclock.
    The Noctua NH-D14 or phanteks @$80 is as good as it gets.


    The case I have is: http://www.aerocool.us/pgs/pgs-v/pgs_v_vx9pro.htm

    The liquid cooler I have now just won't fit that case, the radiator hits the top of the case.

    That and I'd like to personally upgrade the case. The power button and reset buttons have been pressed too many times by accident. They aren't in the best setup.

    I wanted the liquid cooler to go in as I plan on Overclocking my i5 3570K and have read a lot of reviews saying that straight aircool just won't cut it.

    My mobo is a Gigabyte Z77x-D3H ATX Board
  7. Opinions? http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=BmpCLzDrm_Y

    It's a video for the case I may have decided on. I like it alot as it allows for some cable management and also has a slot along the inside of the case for an SSD. Making it real easy to swap out SSD's and such. The video is about 13 mins long so if you got the time, take a look and give me your opinions. I like all the case ideas. I may have answered my own question already, lol. But would like opinions on the build quality of cooler master and such. Thanks!
  8. dragonwolf8504 said:
    Opinions? http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=BmpCLzDrm_Y

    It's a video for the case I may have decided on. I like it alot as it allows for some cable management and also has a slot along the inside of the case for an SSD. Making it real easy to swap out SSD's and such. The video is about 13 mins long so if you got the time, take a look and give me your opinions. I like all the case ideas. I may have answered my own question already, lol. But would like opinions on the build quality of cooler master and such. Thanks!
    Great case only con dust filters are not very good which i wouldn't consider a big issue ;)
  9. bigcyco1 said:
    Great case only con no dust filters which i wouldn't consider a big issue ;)


    Yeah, though I think I can buy dust filters separately if I really want them. Correct?
  10. dragonwolf8504 said:
    Yeah, though I think I can buy dust filters separately if I really want them. Correct?
    You can make them easy i am bet some place might sell them for it as well
  11. bigcyco1 said:
    You can make them easy i am bet some place might sell them for it as well



    True, very true. I didn't think about making them so thanks for that idea. :) That case I linked is about $20 more, but worth it I think. Specially considering I already have another 200mm fan to put in the top, and 2 120MM fans to put in the side. They have 69.69 CFM each. I already have the fans and such. Think I'm all set.
  12. Sounds good and yes i think your good to go good luck!
  13. For air filters to be effective, you need a positive pressure airflow.
    That is when the intake fans draw in the cool air which is then exhausted out the case.
    If you put a filter on the intakes, you will not let dust into the case.

    With an all in one cooler, they recommend that the radiator be set up so as to draw cool air into the radiator which is good for cooling the cpu. But the heated radiator air is then dumped into the case which affects other parts like the graphics card.
    It also means that you would have to devise some sort of filter for the cooler intake.

    If you mount the cooler to exhaust the radiator air, it will have only the heated interior air to work with. Not good either.

    Your concerns with overclocking the 3570K are not necessary unless you are seeking very high overclocks that require elevated voltage.
    My 3570K is overclocked to 4.3. I see no need for more. The cooler is a prolimatech megahalems and a undervolted noctua fan.
    The only other fan is the stock 180mm intake fan(with air filter) that is also on low speed and undervolted. I have the capability of adding a 120mm exit fan, but it just is not needed. The point of this is that the 3570K cooling is a non issue unless you get greedy for high voltage overclocks.
  14. geofelt said:
    For air filters to be effective, you need a positive pressure airflow.
    That is when the intake fans draw in the cool air which is then exhausted out the case.
    If you put a filter on the intakes, you will not let dust into the case.

    With an all in one cooler, they recommend that the radiator be set up so as to draw cool air into the radiator which is good for cooling the cpu. But the heated radiator air is then dumped into the case which affects other parts like the graphics card.
    It also means that you would have to devise some sort of filter for the cooler intake.

    If you mount the cooler to exhaust the radiator air, it will have only the heated interior air to work with. Not good either.

    Your concerns with overclocking the 3570K are not necessary unless you are seeking very high overclocks that require elevated voltage.
    My 3570K is overclocked to 4.3. I see no need for more. The cooler is a prolimatech megahalems and a undervolted noctua fan.
    The only other fan is the stock 180mm intake fan(with air filter) that is also on low speed and undervolted. I have the capability of adding a 120mm exit fan, but it just is not needed. The point of this is that the 3570K cooling is a non issue unless you get greedy for high voltage overclocks.


    So in theory the cpu can be oveclocked to 4.3GHZ with only air cool? Hmm. I'm getting anywhere from 29-40C idle. It's all over the place. Seems balanced out at 37C though. (That's with itunes playing music in the background. But the temps are not much different just sitting idle. DO I have any head room for overclocking then? What should I try to see how will an overclock of say 4GHZ would be? Just overclock it and run prime 95 for how long? I'm new to overclocking the i series, specially the Ivy Bridge.
  15. Running Prime 95 In place LArge FFT's Stock clocks and stock HSF my cpu hits about 85C after 15-20 mins run. Is this the right test?
  16. dragonwolf8504 said:
    So in theory the cpu can be oveclocked to 4.3GHZ with only air cool? Hmm. I'm getting anywhere from 29-40C idle. It's all over the place. Seems balanced out at 37C though. (That's with itunes playing music in the background. But the temps are not much different just sitting idle. DO I have any head room for overclocking then? What should I try to see how will an overclock of say 4GHZ would be? Just overclock it and run prime 95 for how long? I'm new to overclocking the i series, specially the Ivy Bridge.


    At idle, the cpu will downclock to a multiplier of just 16.
    Measuring with realtemp as I write this, I see core temps ranging ftom 25 to 37.
    That is normal.
    Realtemp will also show you what the current multiplier is. If you should see it drop under load, that will be the cpu downclocking itself to protect itself. That should not happen until you reach near 100c.

    To overclock, the conservative way to do it is to just gradually raise the multiplier from the stock 34 on up to your target. Leave the voltage alone on auto.

    Run prime95 with rounding checking for long enough to get the temperature to stabilize at whatever high temperature you get to. If your temperatures start to go over 70c. then quit.
    If you get no errors, consider yourself as stable.
    In actual usage, you will never push all 4 cores that hard.
  17. Best answer selected by dragonwolf8504.
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