ON/OFF Switch with LED Pilot Lamp - How to Solder???
I'm trying to mod a Dell DA-2 power brick to have an ON/OFF switch (with pilot lamp) for the trigger and could not find a reference to follow. Im using a Zippy P2-Series switch to turn on/off Pin 5 (trigger) instead of shorting it directly to ground. I could just use a simple switch but I want to have the option of going on standby when I leave the PC off for a long time (say, when I'm out of town). Can anybody post a proper reference for soldering or give directions, please? TIA!
Basic soldering just requires solder, flux, (solder with integrated flux is common) two metal surfaces and a soldering iron. Maybe some wicking braid to clean up mistakes. (Flux helps solder stick to metal)
The simple version is:
1) Plug in solder iron and prop it so that it won't burn something once it gets hot.
2) While the iron is heating up, prep your two metal surfaces. It just needs to be clean. Some surfaces need to be "roughed up" but it shouldn't be needed for wire and pins. (Unless they are severely corroded/weathered)
3) Tin the surfaces. This involves putting a thin later of solder on each surface. The tinning process is generally helpful for "organized" soldering where the two components are intended to "fit". (Such as an XLR connector's pins and mic cable.)
4) For odd-fitting jobs, you may need to skip the tinning process so that they can be fitted first. (like twisting bare cable around a broken metal nub)
However, if you can get a decent amount of surface area on each surface to "mate", tinning first is generally better.
5) Hold the soldering iron tip against the larger piece of metal until it's hot enough to melt solder. (Your tin job should start to liquify for instance) Then apply the smaller piece of metal (lets say the wire) to the heated piece.
The heat should transfer quickly and melt the tin job on the smaller piece.
If the job isn't too "micro" applying a little sloder to your tip where you make contact with the first metal piece can speed up heat transfer.
6) Now apply a *little* solder to ensure a good bond. "The bigger the blob the better the job" is NOT what you are going for. If you do it very well, the solder should "suck up" to both metal components like shrink-wrap.
Don't rush, but don't linger either once you start heating components. The heat will transfer wherever the metal goes. Wire will get hot in your hand, the connectors will melt their way out of the plastic they are mounted in... etc.
Of course, it's prudent to wear gloves, and safety glasses... and remember to unplug your iron when you are done and wait until it cools down before storing it.