@cranked: I think your link is broken, but I completely agree with you.
CPU: i5 3570K, games only take advantage of 4 cores, so there is literally no reason to go higher than this unless doing 4GPUs in which case you would want a quad core LGA2011 platform. Microcenter has killer CPU prices.
GPU: GTX670, a single card is likely enough, but you have room in the budget for 2, so I would either get 2 now, or plan on getting a 2nd one down the line
Power supply: 500W for a single GPU, 700-750W for duel GPU. Quality is key, and too big can be just as bad as too small. 80+ bronze is a requirement, and from a reputable brand. Modular is a nice plus, but not required.
Ram: 8GB is already overkill for games, and 16GB will not be needed until long after this system is laid to rest. Get a 2x4GB kit, if you somehow find that you need more (unlikely) then you can always add more later. Get 1600 from Corsair (my brand of choise) or gSkill (which is also good).
HDD: Green drives are SLOW. They are perfectly fine to store bulk data on (movies, pictures, etc), but far too slow for a system drive. Either get a 7200rpm system drive, or else keep this drive for documents, and also get a 120-256GB SSD for your system drive. For SSDs I have had good luck with Mushkin and OCZ in a few builds, but other brands like Samsung, Crucial, and Intel are of better quality.
CPU cooler: While you cannot OC Ivy Bridge as high as you could a Sandy Bridge chip, you ought to still be able to hit 4.2-4.6GHz with little issue, but you need a cooler like the Hyper 212 Plus or Evo before overclocking. If not overclocking then save a buck and get the non-K version of the processor.
Sound card: Sound cards are largely unnessessary these days. If you are a true audiophile then get a motherboard with optical output and pair it with Creative xFi MB2 software. It is about as good, for much less cost and headache.
OS: Win7 Home 64bit
Mobo: Something in the $140-200 range, preferably made by ASUS, but there are a few other decent companies out there.
This should bring you to ~$1600 in total for a single GTX670, or $2000 for 2x GTX670s
Keys and mice should be ~$50-75
Monitor should be ~$200 or less
That should keep you in budget, and game MUCH better than your original post
Superb MoBo choice ..... might consider the Sabertooth for the 5 year warranty for $20 more. If it's just "gaming", the i5-3570 should suffice; if ya adding CAD, video editing and other apps that require HT, grab the i7-3770. In either case, you'll want the k version.
These combos will make up for the price difference between the Sabertooth and the Pro version
For a hard drive, the Barracuda XT series offers the best performance available from a 7200 RPM mechanical storage device.
Sound Card - Redundant, already on MoBo
GFX - Here's the numbers:
Guru3D uses the following games in their test suite: Hard Reset, COD-MW2, Far Cry 2, ANNO 1404, Metro 2033, ANNO 2070, BFBC2, BF3, Crysis 2, AvP, Lost Planet 2. Total fps (summing fps in each game @ 1920 x 1200) for the various options in parenthesis (single card / SL or CF) are tabulated below along with their cost in dollars per frame single card - CF or SLI:
In the table above for example, the Asus 670 Cu DCII TOP costs $430 each and gets 999 fps in single card configuration at a cost of $0.43 per frame and 1679 in SLI at a cost of $0.51 per frame. The AMD cards w/ NA did not complete all games in the test suite. This should be resolved in an upcoming driver fix. The nVidia card w/ NA was not tested in SLI.
Looking at the above, ya have to like the 670 ..... looking at the various offerings, ya have to love the Asus 670 DCII TOP
To me, the Sabertooth is way overpriced, you are paying a high premium just for looks. You could get a comparable mobo for much cheaper.
That PSU is still way bigger than you need. You could get a 600W and be fine or a 750W if you ever plan to CF.
Make sure that vengeance ram is low pro so you don't run into any possible issues with an aftermarket cooler.
Unless you have a ton of cash and like to spend it on PC components, I would recommend going with the 670. It's almost as powerful for 75% of the cost. Not that there is anything wrong with the 680, just a little overpriced on a performance/cost ratio.
Much better build overall!
I am going to agree with cranked:
PSU is fine, just a bit large. You can run 2 GTX680 GPUs on 750W. If overclocking both cards then you may want the extra overhead... but in general a single card (much less two) can max out most games at 1080p, or even higher. Duel GPU is really only needed for multi display gaming (tripple head, or 5/7 monitor setups).
Sabertooth is a beautiful board, but way overpriced. Remember that parts dictate speed, and the chipset dictates features. Anything beyond a $130 board you are spending on aesthetics, companion chipsets for extra features, and better quality capacitors. A better quality board means more consistent performance over a (hopefully) longer lifespan, it does not mean a necessarily higher OC as that tends to be limited more by the chip, not the board. Still... if you have the money it is a beautiful board, and I would be lying to say that I would not buy one if I did not have other bills to pay.
For the GTX680 there is a steep diminishing return on your !/$. According to Tom's review of the cards (found here: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/geforce-gtx-670-rev... ) there is only a ~5% performance difference between the two cards, along with a 25% price difference. That is $100 for an extra 5% in FPS. This means (generally) that if your 670 cannot hack it, then neither will a 680, which means that you would have to do SLi. And if you have to purchase 2 of the cards for SLi to do what you want, then really it is a $200 difference, which is money best spent on monitors, SSDs, RAID, and (most importantly) games. Add to your consideration that the 670 runs cooler/quieter, less wattage load on the power supply, and has better OC scaling. All around it is the way to go, and even if I had the disposable income I would likely still get the 670 and OC it.
Not my taste in case aesthetics, but it should be pretty good and get the job done. To each his own when it comes to PC cases.
Ram should be good, and you have space to jump up to 16GB in the future if games finally get demanding enough to require more than 8GB
As I said previously, Mushkin makes great cheap drives, but there are better quality drives available if you have anything 'mission critical' that is being stored on it. Typically though, you should have a backup of all your documents anyways, making the event of possible drive failure only a pain of replacing the drive.
I love seagate drives. They are big, cheap, and reliable. My only complaint about them now that I have a nearly silent system is the spindle whine. Not terrible, especially if you have a single drive, but I have 3 drives and the whine is noticeable. Look into the Samsung F4 2TB drives. They are 5400/5900rpm drives that have amazing performance for their slow spin rate, and they are super quiet. One of the highest rated drives on Newegg, and perfect for quiet storage of files that do not need a whole lot of performance (like pictures, music, and video). But like I said, the drive you picked should also be quite good, and perform a bit better.
Add an aftermarket CPU cooler as you do not want to run the stock cooler with even the smallest overclock. I personally use the Hyper 212 EVO, and replaced the stock fan with 2 silent fans, but there are a ton of other excellent cooler on the market. Most tower coolers are in the same ballpark for cooling effectiveness, so look for one that fits your personal aesthetic tastes and go from there. I really like the newer Zalman 120 and 135mm fan coolers as they are extremely quiet, and look more interesting than your typical box cooler.
All in all, much improved build. I think you will be much happier with this than your first build attempt!