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Rate My Build

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July 14, 2012 5:07:48 AM

Hey guys, I'm building my first computer and also trying to stay under $1300. I have a few concurs, and I think I've gotten together the right components but I need some help from experienced people. I am concerned with the Hard Drive first of all because it is a "barebones" drive. Does this mean it won't come with cables? On top of that I just want to make sure that every thing fits together right… You know the power supply and motherboard mainly and also the other stuff. Thanks. So here it is:

Case: Cooler Master Haf 932 Advanced
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Power Supply: Rosewill HIVE 750 series; 750W modular, 80 Plus Bronze
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Memory: Corsair Vengeance Red 1600
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

CPU: Intel Ivy Bridge I-5 3570k
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

GPU: GTX 670 FTW edition
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Motherboard: MSI - Z77A - G43, LGA 1155
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Hard Drive: Seagate Barracuda 1 TB 7200 RPM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

DVD Burner: ASUS (standard 20 dollar drive, not really any other info)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

More about : rate build

Anonymous
July 14, 2012 5:15:42 AM

a 750 watt PSU is too large and you need a cpu cooler to overclock that i5.
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July 14, 2012 5:50:17 AM

bennetinc said:
I am concerned with the Hard Drive first of all because it is a "barebones" drive. Does this mean it won't come with cables?

That's exactly what it means. It's the drive and nothing else. Good for people who have spare cables lying around.

I also agree with looniam's suggestions by the way. A 550W PSU should do you fine. For CPU cooler, the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo is an ever-popular pick and shouldn't break your budget too much.
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Related resources
July 14, 2012 6:56:13 AM

So I agree on the CPU cooler. I am going to get one in a few weeks after I get paid. And can it hurt to have to much power on my PSU. Also can someone tell me what wire I need to connect my hard drive with my mobo.
Edit:
I'm worried 530W on the PSU isn't enough, but it would save a lot of money.
How would a SILVERSTONE Strider do me. It's 600W but it's non modular. Will a non modular PSU be bad for a rookie?
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July 14, 2012 7:54:27 AM

PSUs are most effective at around 50% load. If your PSU is too powerful, it will be at very low load a lot of the time, leading to poor efficiency. So you'll pay more for the more powerful PSU, but still end up with a bigger electricity bill. Not the best tradeoff.

Your hard drive is connected to the motherboard with a SATA cable.
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July 14, 2012 8:13:16 AM

Sakkura said:
PSUs are most effective at around 50% load. If your PSU is too powerful, it will be at very low load a lot of the time, leading to poor efficiency. So you'll pay more for the more powerful PSU, but still end up with a bigger electricity bill. Not the best tradeoff.


I hate to pick on you, but this is hardly true at all. An 80 plus bronze PSU is always at least 82% efficient regardless of the load, and 85% efficient when in the 50-75% usage window. So if your machine needs 300 watts, your current PSU will need 365 watts from the wall, as opposed to 352 watts of a lower wattage 80 plus bronze in it's max efficiency zone.

You'd have to leave the PC on at continuous full load for 78 hours to even make a 1 kwh difference in electricity usage (your machine will use 125w or less idle). Where I live, one kwh costs 16 cents. whoop-dee-doo.

I do agree that in most builds like this, a 550w PSU would be more appropriate. However there is benefit to using a larger PSU in that it will run cooler under a lower percentage load, which is helpful if the machine is in a warm room, or you want to cut down on the heat the PC emanates.

Your machine won't go above 350 watts at maximum (If you're playing BF3 while simultaneously torrenting and burning a DVD). Your motherboard only supports one video card, so you can easily use a 550w power supply and have plenty of room for expansion.
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July 14, 2012 10:14:57 AM

PSU

A more efficient PSU will save you a little money (as quilciri said its not a lot) but more significantly it will be cooler. Every watt at the wall that does not get used by your machine ends up as heat. To use quilciri's example: 300 watts used by the machine will draw 365 watts from the wall, so 65 watts will be converted to heat inside your machine without any computing benefit. Have you ever held a 60 watt incandescent light bulb when it's on?

I always use 80Plus gold or platinum in my builds because to achieve better efficiency and lower waste heat they tend to have better build quality. Whenever I fix a computer with a decent PSU in it the problems are rarely the PSU or related to it. If I open a machine and see a cheap PSU then I tend to be suspicious of that first.

Sakkura has it right about having too big a PSU. When your machine is at idle with an over-provisioned PSU it will draw less than 20% peak power. The efficiency curves for most PSUs dramatically reduce below there so lots of wasted power (as heat again).

Sadly, quilciri is not correct about a bigger PSU running cooler; its all about the efficiency at any given draw. An 80plus gold 450 watt PSU supplying 350 watts will generate less heat than an 80plus bronze 600 watt PSU supplying the same 350 watts.

Converting from sterling (I'm in the UK) to dollars I would recommend spending upwards of $100 on your power. These days the price difference for a good PSU brand at different wattage ratings is minimal - get the wattage that fits your rig.

As for modular or not, it makes little difference for this kind of build. Do you want unused cables hanging around or do you like it neat?


Motherboard

This is a good board for the money but remember it has no SLI capability but should be able to run a second monitor from the onboard graphics simultaneously with the discrete card.  I regularly use a feature like this for keeping a second, smaller, monitor for side or helper applications that does not interfere with the main GPU capabilities.


Processor

Nice choice - 'nuff sed'


Memory

According to this link MSI's compatibility chart your chosen memory is not listed, however I do know that this is pretty stable stuff if not over-clocked too aggressively. At 1600MHz stock it should work fine and dandy.


GPU

Not quite all out but nearly. If you really push this little gem you might see the CPU hold it back a little but at the kind of fps this will pump out you are unlikely to notice.


Hard Drive

No problems with barebones drives - your mobo will have the SATA cables in the box and any modern PSU will have the power connectors.

This seems to be a fairly well balanced build with an emphasis (I'm guessing) on gaming capability.

Enjoy your first of many builds.

Q
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July 14, 2012 10:57:09 AM

quilciri said:
I hate to pick on you, but this is hardly true at all. An 80 plus bronze PSU is always at least 82% efficient regardless of the load, and 85% efficient when in the 50-75% usage window. So if your machine needs 300 watts, your current PSU will need 365 watts from the wall, as opposed to 352 watts of a lower wattage 80 plus bronze in it's max efficiency zone.

Sorry, but you're the one who's mistaken here.

The 80 plus program does not set efficiency goals for very low load. And you need to get an 80 plus titanium certified PSU just for it to have an efficiency target at 10% load. So theoretically, an 80 plus bronze PSU, which has to have an 81% efficiency at 20% load (or 82% on 115V), could drop to a much lower efficiency at 19% load. It's usually not going to be very drastic, but efficiency does drop off when you go below 20% load. Having a super-sized PSU means you'll drop down to a lower load level when the system is idle, making your PSU less efficient than if you'd bought a less powerful PSU.
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July 14, 2012 11:00:17 AM

i have the bigger brother motherboard. Z77 GD55. you should get corsair vengeance blue RAM instead because it's the exact same colour as the blue sockets. that's what i have, and it looks great. and when you need more RAM, get 2 blacks. also, be careful with your CPU cooler. if you are going to get the Hyper 212+ i would suggest getting low profile vengeance ram because the ram slots are too close to the CPU. i suffer from this problem. my fan is actually pushed up again the RAM closest to the CPU causing it to be on a slight angle. you can raise the fan on the heat sink to clear it, but i'm not sure which way would be best because i'm still waiting for the CPU to get here. when it does (it should get here today, i ordered it from newegg 7 days ago :/  ) i'm going to test to see which way is more effective. pushed up against the ram (this could cause little airflow at the bottom of the fan) or pushed up over the heat sink. (this causes the top end of the fan to blow air over the heat sink, which is a waste.)
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July 14, 2012 11:26:11 AM

marshal11 said:
i have the bigger brother motherboard. Z77 GD55. you should get corsair vengeance blue RAM instead because it's the exact same colour as the blue sockets. that's what i have, and it looks great. and when you need more RAM, get 2 blacks. also, be careful with your CPU cooler. if you are going to get the Hyper 212+ i would suggest getting low profile vengeance ram because the ram slots are too close to the CPU. i suffer from this problem. my fan is actually pushed up again the RAM closest to the CPU causing it to be on a slight angle. you can raise the fan on the heat sink to clear it, but i'm not sure which way would be best because i'm still waiting for the CPU to get here. when it does (it should get here today, i ordered it from newegg 7 days ago :/  ) i'm going to test to see which way is more effective. pushed up against the ram (this could cause little airflow at the bottom of the fan) or pushed up over the heat sink. (this causes the top end of the fan to blow air over the heat sink, which is a waste.)


bennetinc - WARNING - ignore the above ! There is so much wrong with it that I felt compelled to respond.

The colours on the Corsair product's heatsinks show which timings category the memory is sold as. To choose the memory based upon this colour to match a motherboard's slot is just so much nonsense as to beggar belief.

The mention of a fan pushing a RAM module so that it is "... at a slight angle ..." makes me cringe.

The really sad thing is that I earn an honest living by fixing the problems caused by too many people giving advice like the above.

Q
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July 14, 2012 12:17:43 PM

Flying-Q said:
bennetinc - WARNING - ignore the above ! There is so much wrong with it that I felt compelled to respond.

The colours on the Corsair product's heatsinks show which timings category the memory is sold as. To choose the memory based upon this colour to match a motherboard's slot is just so much nonsense as to beggar belief.

The mention of a fan pushing a RAM module so that it is "... at a slight angle ..." makes me cringe.

The really sad thing is that I earn an honest living by fixing the problems caused by too many people giving advice like the above.

Q


can you explain your first complaint about my advice? i don't understand what you are talking about. all i did was suggest changing the colour of the heatsink to blue. the RAM is still the same RAM, just a different colour. i don't understand what you are freaking out about.

the fan is just barely touch the RAM enough to make it not sit straight. the angle isn't even visible unless you are a couple inches away from it looking down on it comparing it to the other's angle. but i do agree with this, if i didn't know how much it was being pushed, i would get that uncomfortable feeling too. but there is next to no force pushing the RAM.
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July 14, 2012 12:57:51 PM

marshal11 said:
can you explain your first complaint about my advice? i don't understand what you are talking about. all i did was suggest changing the colour of the heatsink to blue. the RAM is still the same RAM, just a different colour. i don't understand what you are freaking out about.


Firstly, Corsair sell different versions of Vengence RAM. Those different versions have different memory timing specifications which determine the performance of those modules. For marketing purposes and ease of identification they use different colour heatsinks to differentiate between the different versions. It is not a 'fashion' thing, the different coloured modules have measurable differences in performance. The 'blue' ones are not as tightly timed as the 'red' ones. See this list from Corsair's own site.

Secondly, I do not 'freak'.

marshal11 said:
the fan is just barely touch the RAM enough to make it not sit straight. the angle isn't even visible unless you are a couple inches away from it looking down on it comparing it to the other's angle. but i do agree with this, if i didn't know how much it was being pushed, i would get that uncomfortable feeling too. but there is next to no force pushing the RAM.


If you cannot see at this point how this situation is so very wrong then at some stage in the future you will be employing someone like me to fix your 'problem computer'. Please take from this that ANY sideways force on a RAM module is bad.

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July 14, 2012 1:25:19 PM

Flying-Q said:
Firstly, Corsair sell different versions of Vengence RAM. Those different versions have different memory timing specifications which determine the performance of those modules. For marketing purposes and ease of identification they use different colour heatsinks to differentiate between the different versions. It is not a 'fashion' thing, the different coloured modules have measurable differences in performance. The 'blue' ones are not as tightly timed as the 'red' ones. See this list from Corsair's own site.

Secondly, I do not 'freak'.



If you cannot see at this point how this situation is so very wrong then at some stage in the future you will be employing someone like me to fix your 'problem computer'. Please take from this that ANY sideways force on a RAM module is bad.

Q


well i'd hate to say the following words, but i'm going to anyway. of course there are different timings, i just assumed you and everyone else here would have enough common sense and knowledge to know to get the same RAM, just a different colour. and this is where you are wrong again. Corsair sells the exact same RAM with just a different heatsink on Newegg. they have the exact same model number besides the last letter, which is for the colour, R for red, B for blue, etc. i have tested 2 blues and 2 blacks on my build and stressed them with memtest for a couple of hours and received no errors. if you have read the reviews on the vengeance RAM, many people pair different colours just because it looks cool with the RAM slots. even on the RAM he linked, there are reviews of people mixing the red with black. that reviewer also has had the RAM for over year. there are also many different youtube vids of people showing off their system with different coloured vengeance RAM.

as for MY vengeance RAM, the RAM module is securely connected to the slot, and there is barely any force being put on the RAM at all. it isn't being bent of flexed in any way, and there is a heatsink to protect the actual RAM module from coming into contact with the fan. therefore, it isn't doing any damage. it is just plastic barely touching plastic. you are still over exaggerating the image in your head.
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July 14, 2012 2:14:17 PM

It has nothing to do with none of what their talking about Memory Slots are "color coded" to show you at a glance which are the "dual channel" slots. when you see slots 1&3 the same color its just telling you to put your ram in slots 1 & 3 to get the "dual channel" effect. Slots 2 & 4 would be the other "dual channel" Some mother boards use slots 1 & 2 for one "channel" and 3 & 4 for the other..so you many see your mother board slots in different colors either "staggered" or together. Its just there to help you ( should your manual not be readable) determine which slots the Dual channels are.
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July 14, 2012 2:20:01 PM

marshal11 said:
well i'd hate to say the following words, but i'm going to anyway. of course there are different timings, i just assumed you and everyone else here would have enough common sense and knowledge to know to get the same RAM, just a different colour. and this is where you are wrong again. Corsair sells the exact same RAM with just a different heatsink on Newegg. they have the exact same model number besides the last letter, which is for the colour, R for red, B for blue, etc. i have tested 2 blues and 2 blacks on my build and stressed them with memtest for a couple of hours and received no errors. if you have read the reviews on the vengeance RAM, many people pair different colours just because it looks cool with the RAM slots. even on the RAM he linked, there are reviews of people mixing the red with black. that reviewer also has had the RAM for over year. there are also many different youtube vids of people showing off their system with different coloured vengeance RAM.


I accept your rebuke for not seeing the availability of different colours of heatsink for the same modules. Sorry.

bennetinc - I withdraw my advice regarding fashionable colours of RAM modules.

marshal11 said:
as for MY vengeance RAM, the RAM module is securely connected to the slot, and there is barely any force being put on the RAM at all. it isn't being bent of flexed in any way, and there is a heatsink to protect the actual RAM module from coming into contact with the fan. therefore, it isn't doing any damage. it is just plastic barely touching plastic. you are still over exaggerating the image in your head.


On this point I still stand by my assertion that ANY sideways force on a module, and indeed any component in a slot, is bad. It is not the actual RAM module that will suffer any damage but the connection between the slot and the motherboard. In my 3 decades of computer building I have seen numerous instances of delamination of boards and cracked solder joints due to sideways stress on slots in just the manner you have described. It is usually only high end server motherboards where there is any financial mileage in locating and repairing damage of this nature. I have repaired quite a few in recent years. For all other damaged boards it is usually cheaper just to replace them, even at £200 for a new gaming flagship board. Regarding your fan, my advice would be to use a craft knife and very carefully shave the edge of the fan casing so as to relieve all pressure on the DIMM slot. If the force on the DIMM is as small as you suggest then less than 0.5mm reduction will be plenty.

Q
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July 14, 2012 2:31:51 PM

Flying-Q said:
I accept your rebuke for not seeing the availability of different colours of heatsink for the same modules. Sorry.

bennetinc - I withdraw my advice regarding fashionable colours of RAM modules.



On this point I still stand by my assertion that ANY sideways force on a module, and indeed any component in a slot, is bad. It is not the actual RAM module that will suffer any damage but the connection between the slot and the motherboard. In my 3 decades of computer building I have seen numerous instances of delamination of boards and cracked solder joints due to sideways stress on slots in just the manner you have described. It is usually only high end server motherboards where there is any financial mileage in locating and repairing damage of this nature. I have repaired quite a few in recent years. For all other damaged boards it is usually cheaper just to replace them, even at £200 for a new gaming flagship board. Regarding your fan, my advice would be to use a craft knife and very carefully shave the edge of the fan casing so as to relieve all pressure on the DIMM slot. If the force on the DIMM is as small as you suggest then less than 0.5mm reduction will be plenty.

Q


oh i see what you mean. thanks for the tip, you probably just saved me a few bucks. i'll try shaving off a bit of plastic, that seems like a good idea and i've done it in the past for different reasons, it's not that hard. great solution. thank you, and sorry if i insulted you.
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July 14, 2012 3:01:04 PM

Ok so aside from the RAM color argument, Here's what I've taken out of this. 1. I will find the necessary SATA cables in my MOBO box. 2. The 600W power supply I've chosen should be more efficient but I'll be fine. 3. I won't be able to have an SLI configuration (I definitely don't need one yet though). 4. My RAM will "MOST LIKELY" work with my MOBO.

Thanks,
Also I think I'm going to try to find a more efficient PSU but at the same wattage.
Hey guys, one more edit. Here's a 600W Corsair PSU. I feel like corsair is more reputable.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
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July 14, 2012 3:32:10 PM

Well, the PSUs I linked at the beginning of the thread seem to have the same amps on the 12V rail, but that's still a good PSU.
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July 14, 2012 3:58:49 PM

Well I honestly don't know that much about power supplies. But I am starting to figure out more about them. I just feel safer going with 600W over 530W. I think I am just trying to stay on the safe side. If something doesn't work I'll have a lot of trouble trying to fix it.

Thanks for the help so far though. Can I get some final thoughts from anyone on whether everything I have above will work together. (Substitute the new PSU). Thanks again guys,
Bennet
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July 14, 2012 5:08:25 PM

bennetinc said:
Ok so aside from the RAM color argument, Here's what I've taken out of this. 1. I will find the necessary SATA cables in my MOBO box. 2. The 600W power supply I've chosen should be more efficient but I'll be fine. 3. I won't be able to have an SLI configuration (I definitely don't need one yet though). 4. My RAM will "MOST LIKELY" work with my MOBO.

Thanks,
Also I think I'm going to try to find a more efficient PSU but at the same wattage.
Hey guys, one more edit. Here's a 600W Corsair PSU. I feel like corsair is more reputable.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...


your RAM should work with it. it works with GD55 and they are very similar boards. the only difference is an extra PCIe 3.0 slot, and no onboard OC geneII, power, and reset buttons.
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July 14, 2012 5:20:01 PM

Are you suggesting a different mobo. I know mine is fine but if you have another suggestion that is within 15 dollars of this price that includes some of those features I'd be willing to hear you out.
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July 14, 2012 5:24:24 PM

bennetinc said:
Well I honestly don't know that much about power supplies. But I am starting to figure out more about them. I just feel safer going with 600W over 530W. I think I am just trying to stay on the safe side. If something doesn't work I'll have a lot of trouble trying to fix it.

Thanks for the help so far though. Can I get some final thoughts from anyone on whether everything I have above will work together. (Substitute the new PSU). Thanks again guys,
Bennet

Thumbs up here.

I still think the PSU is overprovisioned.

Try this calculator to verify

Q
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Anonymous
July 14, 2012 6:51:25 PM

bennetinc said:
Ok so aside from the RAM color argument, Here's what I've taken out of this. 1. I will find the necessary SATA cables in my MOBO box. 2. The 600W power supply I've chosen should be more efficient but I'll be fine. 3. I won't be able to have an SLI configuration (I definitely don't need one yet though). 4. My RAM will "MOST LIKELY" work with my MOBO.

Thanks,
Also I think I'm going to try to find a more efficient PSU but at the same wattage.
Hey guys, one more edit. Here's a 600W Corsair PSU. I feel like corsair is more reputable.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...


and if you look at the 12 volt rail of the two ~520 and the 600 you will see the amperage are the same; the 600 has more on the 3.3 and 5 volt rails, which you do not need as much if at all anymore. so you ARE buying the same as a 520 watt PSU.

efficiency and the 12 volt rail are the most important factors in choosing a PSU.


228 watts for the card along with 150 watts (for the cpu, ram, chipset, hard drives, SSD ect.) that is an overestimation though allows room for overclocking.

378 watts (378/12) 31.5 amps. you want to keep the maximum draw to 80% PSU load:
31.5/.8=39.375 amps or 40 rounding up.

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July 14, 2012 7:22:53 PM

Ok thanks for the chart. I guess I'll look one last time just to check around and report back if I see anything thats really efficient, then you guys can help me see if it's the best choice. I think this will be my last component to update on my list before I'm done.

Ok as the last option I'm going to post and ask for help (since I feel like I've exceeded my help limit)...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

OR (The non-modular corsair above) OR This XFX

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

It pretty much comes down to "Do I need to have a modular PSU and will it really benefit me."

Thanks for all the help you have given me.
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July 14, 2012 8:03:27 PM

Anonymous said:
a 750 watt PSU is too large and you need a cpu cooler to overclock that i5.


This guy is 100% on, get a 550w psu and use the money saved for a decent cpu cooler.

Edit: maybe a 600w, and i'd get a western digital hdd insteed of the seagate, seagate have very bad rep
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July 15, 2012 2:07:56 AM

get that modular PSU. you will love youself for it. makes it SOO much easier. and you do not need to swap your HDD, i don't know what that guy is talking about but seagate is 1 step below WD, which is the best. seagate takes 2nd place for HDDs. although i do agree with him, you should get atleast a caviar blue, but the caviar black is better.
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July 15, 2012 2:47:15 AM

I would swap the hard drive but it's not really that necessary, in my lowly opinion. I have a 2 TB external and I have a coupon on the seagate. Should I go for 500/640/750 GB Western Digital to even out the price since I have such a large external? I think I'll pay 20 bucks extra for the Caviar Blue 1 TB for the peace of mind.

PS I decided to go with a 620W Antec Modular PSU.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

It'll definitely get the job done... I hope :) 
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July 15, 2012 7:07:10 AM

Impressive thread. I'm so glad we still have people who can debate and still get along. Carry on.
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July 15, 2012 2:13:06 PM

bennetinc said:
I would swap the hard drive but it's not really that necessary, in my lowly opinion. I have a 2 TB external and I have a coupon on the seagate. Should I go for 500/640/750 GB Western Digital to even out the price since I have such a large external? I think I'll pay 20 bucks extra for the Caviar Blue 1 TB for the peace of mind.

PS I decided to go with a 620W Antec Modular PSU.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

It'll definitely get the job done... I hope :) 

That's a great PSU at a very reasonable price. Since it's modular it should be that much easier for you to install and get good airflow.

As for the HDD, I would go for the Seagate since you have a coupon.
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July 15, 2012 3:40:35 PM

Thanks but I feel more comfortable spending the extra 20 bucks for peace of mind. And I hope the PSU works great. It looks like a good deal.
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