Having been without a desktop for a few years now I'm planning to build my first ever computer for gaming, and I don't know a lot about computers! I've done some research and would like some advice and opinions on the following build. My budget is just over £1,000.
I can't decide on an optical drive; does it even make much of a difference? I'd like one that can read Blu-ray discs, and read/write DVDs/CDs. The speed at which it burns the disc isn't really an issue.
I also don't know many watts I need from a power supply. The description on Amazon for the graphics card says "Wattage: 500w", does this mean I need at least 500w just for the graphics card? Similarly the processor says "Wattage: 95w" but I can't find anything for the other components.
ok first knock off 8gb ram , you only need 8gb, will also suggest using the new Ivy bridge i5 for example i5 3570k has the same clock speed as the i7. You will never use Hyperthreading for gaming. if your doing some Overclocking in the future pick up a Cooler Master Evo 212 it will let you Overclock your cpu to roughly 4.3ghz
that talks about hyperthreading
i5 3570k will be slighty better for gaming as it doesnt utilize the hyperthreading for gaming. 16GB is really pushing it. 8gb ram and you can still run 2 game instances plus multiple Browser windows, Trust me i know how much i can do on 8gb ram
You should also take a look at this power supply.It's powerfull enough to drive your PC even if you add another GTX 670 and overclock it as high as it can go.It's not as efficient as the one g-unit suggested but it features a modular cabling design which means there won't be flying cables in your case.
About the CPU Shockattackr is a bit wrong here.There are already games that use more than four cores so if you play them the 2600K will be a lot faster than a 3570K.They aren't a lot though but there will soon be more of them.
Im just going to give some examples of them
Dead Rising 2
Also the 2600K overclock's a lot better becasue it runs cooler.
If you've got the extra money though i suggest you buy a LGA 2011 motherboard an a Intel Core i7 3820.That way you'll have an upgrade path to Ivy Bridge-E unlike LGA 1155 which is a dead platform.
Some things to note:
- Total cost will probably be higher (shipping, taxes, merchant preference, etc)
- The optical drive reads and writes BluRay, CD, and DVD, and is very expensive. PC Part Picker probably doesn't have all the optical drives available to you, so check around some websites and see if you can't find something that'll fit you (unless you do want it).
- Case is a big point of preference: one of my preferences is the NZXT Phantom. If something that ginormous doesn't suit you (or the color, or style, or whatever), we can give you plenty of good suggestions (just be specific about what you're looking for: style, build quality, features, airflow, etc).
- This is a little over budget/close to budget, so consider this more of a starting point than anything. There's still room to shave off some money without losing too much functionality.
Optical Drive: LG BH10LS38.AUAR 10x Internal BD-RW Retail Kit
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium with Service Pack 1, 64-bit, English, 1 Pack, DSP OEI (PC)
I have a further 2 questions though!
1. Is a processor cooler really necessary? I don't mind paying the extra £30 odd if it is something that I should get. My plan currently is not to do any overclocking (not that I evenreally know what it is or how to do it!)
2. How much power will I need from the power supply?? I can't seem to find this information anywhere!
You could easily get away with a 500W power supply with those parts, although I'd stick to 620+ for expandability. The two big power draws in a computer are its video card and CPU - 190W and 77W, respectively (190 for an overclocked 670 at full blast).
On the cooler, like obsama said - it'll run colder with something like a Hyper212. If you're not planning on overclocking right away, you can pass on it for now and save for something better. Either way, don't try overclocking it (despite being relatively straightforward) without a 3rd party cooler.