Sign in with
Sign up | Sign in
Your question

Building my Own PC

Last response: in Systems
Share
August 5, 2012 6:19:40 AM

This is for gaming. budget around 1k. opinions/advice/constructive criticism is welcome! here are my parts:
Case: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6811119213
Hard Drive: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6822136769
GPU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6814130593
DVD ROM: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6827118031
PSU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6817171052
RAM: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6820231314
Mother Board: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6813157293
HSF: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6835103065
CPU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6819115233

Should i upgrade my motherboard? Is ASRock a reputable brand or should i go with one like GIGABYTE or ASUS or EVGA?

Thanks in advance!

More about : building

a b B Homebuilt system
a b V Motherboard
August 5, 2012 8:28:44 AM

your links don't really work. I had to look up the partial Newegg number on their site.

THG's gave that MB a recommended buy award
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/z77-express-ivy-bri...

I noticed that the CPU your build uses is not a "K" series i5. is this intentional?
August 5, 2012 2:02:21 PM

Yes, i didnt get the k because i have no intentions of overclocking. thanks maybe my motherboard is worth buying then. sorry the links didnt work, not sure why but here ill list my parts:

Computer Case: COOLER MASTER HAF 932 Advanced Blue Edition RC-932-KKN3-GP ATX Full Tower Computer Case with USB 3.0, Black Interior and ...
Item #: N82E16811119213



HDD:Western Digital Caviar Blue WD5000AAKX 500GB 7200 RPM SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Item #: N82E16822136769

Wireless Adapter: ASUS PCE-N15 PCI Express 300/300Mbps Transfer/Receive Rate Wireless Adapter
Item #: N82E16833320074


GPU: EVGA 012-P3-1570-AR GeForce GTX 570 (Fermi) 1280MB 320-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
Item #: N82E16814130593


DVD-ROM: SONY Black SATA DVD-ROM Drive Model DDU1681S-0B - OEM
Item #: N82E16827118031

PSU: COOLER MASTER GX Series RS650-ACAAD3-US 650W ATX12V v2.31 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Power Supply
Item #: N82E16817171052

Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound - OEM
Item #: N82E16835100007

Logitech 963290-0403 Extreme 3D Pro USB Joystick
Item #: N82E16826102204

RAM: G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL
Item #: N82E16820231314

Mother Board: ASRock Z77 Extreme4 LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
Item #: N82E16813157293

HSF: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10-212P-G1 "Heatpipe Direct Contact" Long Life Sleeve 120mm CPU Cooler Compatible Intel ...
Item #: N82E16835103065

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570 Ivy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 77W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 2500 ...
Related resources
a b B Homebuilt system
a b V Motherboard
August 5, 2012 2:21:46 PM

looks good.... I'd suggest a HD 7850 instead of the 570. almost identical performance with less heat and energy use
August 5, 2012 2:32:03 PM

ill take that into suggestion. anyone else agree with screwysqrl? thanks for that advice ill check into the 7850
a c 84 B Homebuilt system
a c 238 V Motherboard
August 5, 2012 2:36:08 PM

Here are my thoughts:

1) If you are buying a 3570, spend an extra $20 to get the "K" version.
Multiplier overclocking with a "K" is safe and easy, it is what the "K" was designed to do. With a fair cpu cooler, you can safely and easily change that 3.4 to 4.3. I think you should preserve that option, even if you don't use it initially.
If you live near a microcenter, they will sell you a 3570K for $190.

2) The GTX570 is a fine card. For gaming, it is the critical component. Can you justify a $400 GTX670?
If $300 is your graphics card budget, you might want to wait a week or two for the GTX660 which should be in that price range.
http://www.tweaktown.com/articles/4873/nvidia_geforce_g...

3) Caviar blue is not as fast as the black. But... How much space do you really need? Can you consider a SSD? A 120gb SSD will hold the os and a handful of games. It is not a big performance boost for games, but everything else you do will feel so much quicker.

4) Coolermaster quality can be iffy. I would stick with a known quality brand. Seasonic, Corsair, XFX, PC P&C, or Antec.
A gtx570 needs a 550w psu with 38a, a gtx670 needs a 500w psu with 30a.
August 5, 2012 2:47:19 PM

1) i have no clue at all how to overclock a system. is it safe? what are the benefits to oc'ing? system runs faster or something?
2) how big of a difference is there in the 670 and 570? i dont really want to get number one stuff because within a year itll cost half the price.
3)Ill get the black. i was going to get a SSD but read many reviews saying that they died fast so i wasnt going to gamble with an ssd.
4) okay ill switch to corsair. i thought cooler master was a reputable brand.
also, how does someone know if their PSU cables will be lengthy enough to reach all their parts in a large case?
a c 84 B Homebuilt system
a c 238 V Motherboard
August 5, 2012 3:04:01 PM

hostel said:
1) i have no clue at all how to overclock a system. is it safe? what are the benefits to oc'ing? system runs faster or something?
2) how big of a difference is there in the 670 and 570? i dont really want to get number one stuff because within a year itll cost half the price.
3)Ill get the black. i was going to get a SSD but read many reviews saying that they died fast so i wasnt going to gamble with an ssd.
4) okay ill switch to corsair. i thought cooler master was a reputable brand.


To address your issues:

1) In the bios, the default multiplier is 34. All you do is change it to 35, 36, 37 etc until you reach your objective.
Let the voltage default to auto. You are safe so long as you don't try to override voltages. A change from 34 to 43 gives you a
25% increase in compute power. It is safe because the cpu will reduce the multiplier or even shut down if it gets dangerously hot.

2) Here is a link to the anandtech bench with a comparison. It depends on the game, resolution, and eye candy.
But, more than just high FPS, a stronger card will enable more eye candy, and sustain better minimum frame rates.
Also, the GTX670 will run cooler and need a less powerful psu.
http://www.anandtech.com/bench/Product/518?vs=598

3) A SSD will have similar, if not better reliability than a hard drive. No moving parts.
Longevity is not a factor for a desktop user. The ssd will be long obsolete before it wears out.
Read this review of the intel 330 series: http://www.anandtech.com/show/5817/the-intel-ssd-330-re...
a c 84 B Homebuilt system
a c 238 V Motherboard
August 5, 2012 3:25:53 PM

hostel said:
yeah i think the 570 is okay for me. the 670 seems overkill. which one would you pick out of these two cases?
1)http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
2)http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
its the cooler master HAF 932 and the Corsair Corsair Carbide Series 500R if the links dont work. i would add a couple fans to the corsair one


Cases are a personal thing.
Pick the one that looks best to YOU.
Either case will work well, no added fans are needed.

Personally, since you asked,I would pick neither.
I like smaller cases that fit my desk space.
I use a Silverstone TJ-08E M-atx case. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
It cools well with an undervolted 180mm intake fan.

How many expansion slots do you really need? A ATX motherboard has 7, a M-atx has 4. Both have a x16 graphics slot.
A M-ATX motherboard will usually cost less too.
August 5, 2012 3:30:35 PM

alright i think the HAF will be fine then.
!