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HELP!! An annoying problem

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January 10, 2013 4:58:42 AM

I have built this computer my self and was very proud of it.

It always had a small issue where when turned on from cold start, it turns on then switches itself off and then after a few seconds, it turns on and boots normally.

NOW the issue is that it always does the same thing, but when I am using the computer normally, (watching a YouTube clip, and similar things) it starts to turn off by itself, it turns of itself by which it looks like a normal shutdown.
Once it's shuts down, it turns back on, then after a few seconds, it turns itself off, turns turns on after about a minute, then shuts down again, and keeps doing that over and over again.

The only time I can make it boot normally again it have it turned off for about an hour. Then it boots up properly. But has that same issue of it shutting down.

I have checked for any bad sectors in the computer, did a full virus check, ran speed fan (nothing overheats). Check for any loose connections in the computer and physically check by touch if anything is overheating. But everything seems to be fine.

What can be the issue and any solutions please!!!!

*Intel i7 2.93GHz quad*1TB HDD**500GB HDD* EVGA GT450 graphics* Gigabyte P55A-UD3* LG Bluray*Coolmaster V8 Cooling*

More about : annoying problem

a b ) Power supply
January 10, 2013 5:53:29 AM

Sounds like a component breaking down as the machine warms up, but it could be anywhere. Two main culprits could be a memory stick or motherboard. Try running on one stick of memory at a time, see if it becomes stable. You can partly check the motherboard by removing components, ie try running with the bare minimum - just a stick of RAM and the CPU to see if the restart occurs once it's warm,and then add HDD and GPU etc to see if you can isolate further.
January 11, 2013 1:21:20 AM

Tried that, even with only having the 1 ram stick and everything else disconnected, has the same problem.
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January 11, 2013 3:41:29 AM

Have you tried resetting the bios? What are the model and make of you memory, psu. What bios are you running? Can you flash to the F11?
January 11, 2013 4:21:50 AM

suteck said:
Have you tried resetting the bios? What are the model and make of you memory, psu. What bios are you running? Can you flash to the F11?

PSU: Antec EA-650, memory: Kingston KHX1600C9D3K2/8GX. BIOS version is F11. Resseted the bios as well. But still no luck
January 11, 2013 4:40:13 AM

Do you have another hard drive you could use and do a fresh install of windows to see if that is causing the problem?
a b ) Power supply
January 11, 2013 6:16:54 AM

Suteck, I guess if it's happening with nothing connected but the CPU and RAM it's somewhat unlikely to be Windows! (Theshon, you DID try it with only those components?) Looks to me like a mobo or CPU problem. Cheapest next move would be to buy the least expensive CPU your mobo supports from Ebay (Something like a Celeron) to see if it will run with that.
Edit - slowest CPU is Pentium G6950, and used ones are expensive, so that's not much help! ( I use AMD, falures not so expensive to find...) Know anyone with a similar rig you could try your CPU on?
January 11, 2013 6:31:37 AM

dodger46 said:
Suteck, I guess if it's happening with nothing connected but the CPU and RAM it's somewhat unlikely to be Windows! (Theshon, you DID try it with only those components?) Looks to me like a mobo or CPU problem. Cheapest next move would be to buy the least expensive CPU your mobo supports from Ebay (Something like a Celeron) to see if it will run with that.
Edit - slowest CPU is Pentium G6950, and used ones are expensive, so that's not much help! ( I use AMD, falures not so expensive to find...) Know anyone with a similar rig you could try your CPU on?


I forgot to mention that i also had my GPU Connected, as the motherboard has no video out put. Could that be connected to be causing the problem?
a b ) Power supply
January 11, 2013 6:39:41 AM

Yes it could! Start again, see if the fans run longer than the machine did with the GPU in.
January 11, 2013 6:52:59 AM

dodger46 said:
Yes it could! Start again, see if the fans run longer than the machine did with the GPU in.

ok, did that, when starting the fan and all the other lights and hardrives turns on at the same time. But when it finises shutting down, the screen, lights, HDD, turn off first then all the fans turn off about 1 second later.
a b ) Power supply
January 11, 2013 7:02:25 AM

Not conclusive. You really need to start with just the CPU and one stick of RAM to see if it will run continuously, then gradually introduce components one at a time. Remove ALL inc. HDDS, DVD etc. right back to barebones. And if barebones doesn't run, take the mobo out and sit it on bare table to see if it will run with just the pwr supply connected plus the usual CPU and RAM (Start by shorting out the pwr sw pins with a screwdriver)
January 11, 2013 6:35:20 PM

dodger46 said:
Not conclusive. You really need to start with just the CPU and one stick of RAM to see if it will run continuously, then gradually introduce components one at a time. Remove ALL inc. HDDS, DVD etc. right back to barebones. And if barebones doesn't run, take the mobo out and sit it on bare table to see if it will run with just the pwr supply connected plus the usual CPU and RAM (Start by shorting out the pwr sw pins with a screwdriver)

Ok, tried that, here's the notes I took:

1. Only had CpU, Mobo, PSU, connected. First cold start, the computer turned on fine without any hitches.

2. Added all the cooling fans, still ok.

3. Added the second Memory stick. Still ok. Added GPU. Still OK.

4. Removed GPU and added in main WD 1TB 7200rmp, HDD. Then when I pressed the pwr, the PSU turned on, then turned off. Then turned back on as normal booting. Had it running for a little bit, didn't shut down on it own. Ran ok.

5. Added GPU, did the same start up thing as 4. But booted fine, had it going for a while, and it didn't shut down by itself. Seemed to be running OK.

6.added my wireless card, still has that same thing when getting a cold start. Works OK, then added my Bluray drive, and did the same thing, but everything worked fine, there was nothin out of the ordinary.

7.plugged my 2nd HDD (WD 500GB 7200rpm) still did the exact same things. Everything was same as before.

8. Added in my USB extras, and still everything looked as normal. No timings were different, same start up time. The normal shutting down process was the same, everything turned off exactly at the same time. (Even the fans turned off at the same time).

That's what I did. Nothing was different to any startup or shutting process after adding the HDD.
a b ) Power supply
January 11, 2013 7:15:25 PM

Bit confused. Apart from false starts when you 1st powered on at 4,5,6 &7 it is now running ok?
January 11, 2013 9:06:19 PM

dodger46 said:
Bit confused. Apart from false starts when you 1st powered on at 4,5,6 &7 it is now running ok?

Yes. it runs ok at 4,5,6&7
January 12, 2013 5:17:57 AM

Sounds like all you had to do was pull it all apart and get a good reconnect when you reinstalled all the connectors for your components. Maybe something was just loose causing a short. Everything still working ok?
January 17, 2013 10:16:44 PM

suteck said:
Sounds like all you had to do was pull it all apart and get a good reconnect when you reinstalled all the connectors for your components. Maybe something was just loose causing a short. Everything still working ok?

Sorry have been away for a few days.

But no, still has a same problem, infact there is a new one. It was running prefectly fine for a couple of hours then all the programs running (firefox, Spotify) shut down by it self and then the whole computer went black(no shutting down screen).

And also, when i flick the switch on on the wall, the computer starts up by it self and switches off by itself and doesnt start at all for a few minutes (even if I press the power button).

It has become worse now, unfortunatly. I do appreciate the help you guys are giving me though, thanks.

But any other solutions?
a b ) Power supply
January 18, 2013 4:38:46 AM

I'm starting to look sideways at your PSU, despite the fact that Antec have a good rep, I think you should check it out. Also I am concerned that the rig ran fine until you connected the 1Tb HDD. 1st try running with the 1 Tb power disconnected. If it runs OK you have your answer. If not, do you have a multimeter capable of measuring up to 12V DC?
January 18, 2013 6:29:05 AM

dodger46 said:
I'm starting to look sideways at your PSU, despite the fact that Antec have a good rep, I think you should check it out. Also I am concerned that the rig ran fine until you connected the 1Tb HDD. 1st try running with the 1 Tb power disconnected. If it runs OK you have your answer. If not, do you have a multimeter capable of measuring up to 12V DC?

Right, removed just the 1tb HDD and did the cold start while everything else is connected. And. The computer started fine without any hitches.
Then did a cold start again and connected the 1tb HDD and the PSU turned on turned back off then turned on again.

Does this now mean that the HDD has been causing all these problems?
January 18, 2013 6:41:29 AM

theshon said:

4. Removed GPU and added in main WD 1TB 7200rmp, HDD. Then when I pressed the pwr, the PSU turned on, then turned off.



That should have twinkle your light bulb from the start. Good luck :p 
January 18, 2013 7:00:00 AM

sarj313 said:
That should have twinkle your light bulb from the start. Good luck :p 

Thanks dude. This is the third time a WD HDD has broken down on me. And other brand you would recommend?
January 18, 2013 7:02:53 AM

Funny enough i have a WD aswell for about 5 y now and it's been good. Try a SSD for your windows and your other WD HDD for everything else.
a b ) Power supply
January 18, 2013 7:31:18 AM

theshon said:
Right, removed just the 1tb HDD and did the cold start while everything else is connected. And. The computer started fine without any hitches.
Then did a cold start again and connected the 1tb HDD and the PSU turned on turned back off then turned on again.

Does this now mean that the HDD has been causing all these problems?

Yep. Just annoyed I didn't spot that earlier! An SSD for your Op System a great idea, in fact if you upgrade to Win 8 you'll get away with a 60Gb one as it takes up so little space. You can get one for around £40/$60.
February 1, 2013 7:28:36 PM

dodger46 said:
Yep. Just annoyed I didn't spot that earlier! An SSD for your Op System a great idea, in fact if you upgrade to Win 8 you'll get away with a 60Gb one as it takes up so little space. You can get one for around £40/$60.

Just noticed a new problem( I haven't got a SSD yet). When I am usin heavy softwares like adobe after effects, photoshop and games, the program's cuts out and the computer cuts out( no shut down screens). But when I am using small program's, the program's cut out but the computer looks as if it is shutting down properly. Does that mean anything?
February 1, 2013 8:31:35 PM

dodger46 said:
Did you replace the HDD? If so sounds like more of a heat issue. Run Speccy and see if anything getting warm.
http://download.cnet.com/Speccy/3000-2094_4-75181811.ht...

Just ran it and was running a render preview on after effects. The HDD mother board everything else was running on 31 degrees C, except the CPU was hovering around 68degrees cel. Now th computer is turning on and off continuesly, even with the HDD pulled out of the machine.
a b ) Power supply
February 1, 2013 8:39:56 PM

Hmmm. Will it settle after a while long enough to observe the mobo voltages, 12,5 & 3.3 in particular? (motherboard selected in Speccy...)
February 1, 2013 9:32:12 PM

dodger46 said:
Hmmm. Will it settle after a while long enough to observe the mobo voltages, 12,5 & 3.3 in particular? (motherboard selected in Speccy...)

This is what it gives me after a 5 mins

CPU CORE 1.136 V
MEMORY CONTROLLER 1.584 V
+3.3V 3.328 V
+5V 5.027 V
+12V 9.856 V (This keeps jumping around between 8.8V - 12.3v)
-12V (12.160) V
+5V HIGH THRESHOLD 3.629 V
CMOS BATTERY 3.072 V
CPU 1.136 V
February 1, 2013 9:37:34 PM

dodger46 said:
Hmmm. Will it settle after a while long enough to observe the mobo voltages, 12,5 & 3.3 in particular? (motherboard selected in Speccy...)

This are the voltages when I am running adobe after effects render:
CPU CORE 1.152 V
MEMORY CONTROLLER 1.584 V
+3.3V 3.328 V
+5V 5.027 V
+12V 8.320 V
-12V (12.224) V
+5V HIGH THRESHOLD 3.629 V
CMOS BATTERY 3.072 V
CPU 1.136 V
a b ) Power supply
February 2, 2013 3:42:06 AM

12V, your main 'Rail' voltage, is way below the tolerance of +/- 10% which would suggest either your PSU is failing or an individual component is soaking up all the juice. Ideally you would monitor the voltage with just the barebones as earlier, then add in components if it's in tolerance when not under load to see which one is doing the damage. Obviously you would need a meter to check this as your PC won't be fully functional. (It would also be convenient if you could borrow another PSU to see if that works!)
Method
http://hardwarelogic.com/articles.php?id=5075
February 4, 2013 3:32:19 AM

dodger46 said:
12V, your main 'Rail' voltage, is way below the tolerance of +/- 10% which would suggest either your PSU is failing or an individual component is soaking up all the juice. Ideally you would monitor the voltage with just the barebones as earlier, then add in components if it's in tolerance when not under load to see which one is doing the damage. Obviously you would need a meter to check this as your PC won't be fully functional. (It would also be convenient if you could borrow another PSU to see if that works!)
Method
http://hardwarelogic.com/articles.php?id=5075

went back to the bare bones again and tested the voltage out put, the 5V and 12V Stayed constant. but on the multimeter the 12V stayed at 12.06V and 12.05V doesnt matter how much torture test i Gave it, still stayed constant throughout. But why did speccy's 12V reading was always jumping around and the multimeter was giving a constant readying? (My multimeter had a refresh rate of 0.5sec)
a b ) Power supply
February 4, 2013 6:34:29 AM

theshon said:
went back to the bare bones again and tested the voltage out put, the 5V and 12V Stayed constant. but on the multimeter the 12V stayed at 12.06V and 12.05V doesnt matter how much torture test i Gave it, still stayed constant throughout. But why did speccy's 12V reading was always jumping around and the multimeter was giving a constant readying? (My multimeter had a refresh rate of 0.5sec)


Mysterious. Presumably by 'torture' you mean you added back in all your components and the voltage on the meter stayed constant? So with everything running all voltages metered correct. Possibly there is a defective voltage sensor on your Mobo then, which may trigger a shut down, but I've never heard of that! Needs further investigation, methinks...
February 4, 2013 6:52:07 AM

dodger46 said:
Mysterious. Presumably by 'torture' you mean you added back in all your components and the voltage on the meter stayed constant? So with everything running all voltages metered correct. Possibly there is a defective voltage sensor on your Mobo then, which may trigger a shut down, but I've never heard of that! Needs further investigation, methinks...

That's what I did to start of with, then I installed the software prime95 and did a torture test, still everything stayed constant, I tried to ask around computer techs but they can't tell me a good answer, they were asking me to bring it in for them to have a look, in other words "bring it in so we can charge u heaps to only have a look at it" lol
a b ) Power supply
February 4, 2013 7:10:27 AM

Trying to find out if BIOS monitors 12V and if it shuts down the machine on low voltage...Also it might be worth checking event logs for clues. Avoid taking it in, it might cost more than it's worth...
a b ) Power supply
February 4, 2013 7:28:02 AM

Try the PC Health tab in your BIOS, it will show the Rail voltages, see if it agrees with Speccy...
February 5, 2013 4:59:20 AM

dodger46 said:
Try the PC Health tab in your BIOS, it will show the Rail voltages, see if it agrees with Speccy...

ON the BIOS, the voltages were all stable:
VCore 1.172
DDR15V 1.584
+5V 5.026
+12 12.112V
^They were ll pretty stable^

When stared the computer it was showing:
CPU CORE 1.136 V
MEMORY CONTROLLER 1.584 V
+3.3V 3.328 V
+5V 5.027 V
+12V 7.744 V
-12V (12.224) V
+5V HIGH THRESHOLD 3.629 V
CMOS BATTERY 3.056 V
CPU 1.136 V

Best solution

a b ) Power supply
February 5, 2013 7:36:22 AM
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Wierd. But if both Meter and BIOS agree, the reading in Speccy must be erroneous. Did you replace the WD HDD that was suspect?
April 28, 2013 1:48:25 AM

Thanks for all your help. But The problem has been fixed.

Here's what I did.
I tested the HDD on my mates computer and seemed to be workin perfectly fine.
I then gave up and took it to my local computer repair shop.
They concluded that the power supply was faulty, So i bought a new one.
That Still didn't fix the issue!!

So I than borrowed RAM of my mate, Still didn't fix the issue.

So i Gave up completly and bought a BRAND NEW CPU, Motherboard, Water Coolant and a new SSD HDD.
THAT STILL DIDNT FIX IT!!!!

The only which was not new was the Case and the RAM.

Then one night when I out drinking, a bit... then my mate started to complain that his phone on/off button was not working.
That gave me an idea that my cases on/off switch was faulty.

The next day I took off the case pin on/off switch connectors from the motherboard.
Touch the 2 power pins with a screw driver,AND THE PROBLEM NEVER CAME BACK!!

Conclusion, the power switch on the case was faulty!!! Rather annoyed that a $2 buttone would make me spend hundreds of $ on things which i didnt need.

Lesson: Always go out drinking when you have annoying issues. lol

Thanks for all your guys help.

a b ) Power supply
April 28, 2013 3:26:33 AM

End of a marathon! Guess there was a clue in the fact that it switched itself off at power on, but as the Pwr on Sw replicates exactly what you did with the screwdriver, i.e. provides a temporary short cct, I never considered it as a possibility. Somehow it must have been providing a permanent short intermittently, and causing the machine to switch off, but only when the short existed for more than 5 seconds, which is the time it takes to 'Hard Power Off'. Another one for the Record Book... on a positive note, you have nearly enough spare parts to build another rig, or set yourself up as a swap shop for diagnosing faults...
April 28, 2013 3:28:22 AM

dodger46 said:
End of a marathon! Guess there was a clue in the fact that it switched itself off at power on, but as the Pwr on Sw replicates exactly what you did with the screwdriver, i.e. provides a temporary short cct, I never considered it as a possibility. Somehow it must have been providing a permanent short intermittently, and causing the machine to switch off, but only when the short existed for more than 5 seconds, which is the time it takes to 'Hard Power Off'. Another one for the Record Book... on a positive note, you have nearly enough spare parts to build another rig, or set yourself up as a swap shop for diagnosing faults...

yes. all i need now is a graphics card for the old parts, and wallah!! have another comp, cheers
!