Sign in with
Sign up | Sign in
Your question

Yellow Build - 2013 - Need your advices

Last response: in Systems
Share
September 3, 2012 10:44:01 PM

Hello everybody,

I have been looking forward to creating a new custom build, the previous one is about 6 years old right now :s. That is pretty old considering Moore's law :D . Anyway the system specs I have now can be found in my profile. Just to give you an idea of what I have to cope with daily, and now it is really time for a change!

So here is a list of components that will sit inside the new build:

MOBO ASUS P8Z77 € 199,95
CPU Intel i5-2500K € 209.00
MEMORY CORSAIR Vengeance € 57,95 Thinking: probably going for the not "low-profile" version but can't find it in stores.
GRAPHICS nVidea GeForce GTX660 € 349,95 This one does block off a PCI slot on the motherboard : (

ATM this is all I need. I'm gonna invest in SATA 3 HD's later & will go with the Terabytes I still got laying around for some time. I'm not sure what is supposed to be bought with regards to power, because I suppose that graphics card will need some extra?

Now for the Second part I am going to go with watercooling. Several sources told me the i5 sandy bridge is great to overclock. Also the ASUS mobo gives me sort of easy access to overclocking with the UEFI BIOS.

Some mockup won't be a problem for me I love applying a good lighting to stuff. Whole case will be lit yellow, maybe some UV plexi, I don't really know yet. Maybe the water in the clear tubes is UV reflective yellow colored. No problem getting that to look nice for an agreable price. Anyway what do you water-cooling experts sugest to my setup?:

XSPC RayStorm Waterblock 1155 € 60,00
Phobya 5,25 Bay Reservoir € 28,00
Tubing "Clear" € 13,00
Radiator: Swiftech MCR320 € 60,00
Pump: Help me please!

For the rest, I'm going with compression fittings, and probably a yellow UV liquid pre-mixed for 15 bucks. Now for the last part, in which you'll all point at me and laugh, I don't really know what case yet. I know "what a blunt move". I'm more like, the case shouldn't cost more than €150, but if you guys give me some reasons to go more expensive than that and have good arguments I might consider. I found that the Cooler Master Elite 430 is really good looking for the price. Only some people say the radiator on top might block the ram slots, which worries me a bit.

For case I would like to have a side-panel with window, and the case should have grates at the topside for the radiator to dissipate heat for the loop. Also THIS case would be a premium choice if it didn't cost me so much!

Anyway all advice is welcome, please keep in mind I am no professional at this so there might be some bottlenecks in the system choice or just some things I forgot, thanks!
September 4, 2012 3:29:21 PM

Firstly, I have no experience of water cooling, so will have to leave that to others.
If you are interested in overclocking, as an interest, as much as for performance gain, then go with a 2500K. Bear in mind, though, that Ivybridge is a better chip, and effectively has a "headstart" of between 0.2 and 0.3 GHz. Yes, you can OC Sandybridge to a higher level, than Ivybridge, but HAVE to, if you want to catch up that lead. Even at maximum safe levels, with watercooling, Sandybridge will only overtake Ivybridge performance, by a small amount, and will never have the more modern features of IB.
If you are going to stick with 2500K, I would suggest changing mobo. Z77, with Sandybridge, gives nothing extra, over Z68.
I take it you mean GTX 660Ti, for GPU. Nice card. I take it you've considered the other options, around that price/performance point. The GTX 670, and HD 7870, and HD 7950. Not saying they are better, cos it depends what you want, but at least worthy of consideration.
September 4, 2012 4:56:49 PM

first of everything, i dont see the point of watercooling a rig that wont cost you more than 1500.

you are better off with air atm. if you are looking to achieve silence, it is rather easy and we can help
Related resources
September 4, 2012 5:22:27 PM

TheBigTroll said:
first of everything, i dont see the point of watercooling a rig that wont cost you more than 1500.

you are better off with air atm. if you are looking to achieve silence, it is rather easy and we can help


+1000!! that would be like putting solid-platinum rims on a 84 corolla.
September 4, 2012 5:32:18 PM

**i dont see the point of watercooling a rig that wont cost you more than 1500**
**that would be like putting solid-platinum rims on a 84 corolla**


My rigs doomed then, :p 
Maybe Op wants to Watercool purely for the looks, a lot do these days,
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/277130-11-read-firs...
will help you decide if its really what you are after Depth,
If you do decide to go for it, the W/c section over in overclocking is a great place to post a sister thread
Moto

September 4, 2012 5:40:12 PM

Motopsychojdn said:
**i dont see the point of watercooling a rig that wont cost you more than 1500**
**that would be like putting solid-platinum rims on a 84 corolla**


My rigs doomed then, :p 
Maybe Op wants to Watercool purely for the looks, a lot do these days,
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/277130-11-read-firs...
will help you decide if its really what you are after Depth,
If you do decide to go for it, the W/c section over in overclocking is a great place to post a sister thread
Moto


but...wouldnt you prefer more power than aesthetics?
September 4, 2012 5:49:01 PM

Only if i was going to use it :) 
I wouldn't drive a 20k Sportsbike to the cornershop but I've spent thousands chopping my 30 year old Vf750 Magna and keeping her on the road,
guess which gets more looks at the bikemeets?
sometimes its the looks that make the build,
Moto
September 4, 2012 8:01:35 PM

Thanks for your replies guys!

The water cooling was actualy meant for overclocking the Sandy Bridge. However in later stages I got sort of hooked onto the whole thing really. You could say it's for aestetic purposes.

The thing though with a watercooling loop is that you can pretty much re-use alot of parts for an upgrade in the build. So you don't have to spend another € 400 anymore to get a watercooling line on your custom build.

If you say it's awkward putting watercooling in a computer that won't cost over 1500 I turn my choices into doubt. It's an endless discussion choosing between the looks and performance, and even I myself don't know what to choose...

So if I go for a different mobo/chipset with ivy bridge processor... how much more will this cost me? (without water cooling)

[ Thanks for your replies btw ;)  ]
September 4, 2012 9:21:14 PM

i always prioritize performance over looks so i never really saw the point of watercooling a lower end build (for watercooling anyways)

ivy bridge is the same as sandy bridge, just runs hotter in high voltages and performs slightly better clock for clock. it will you the same as doing it for sandy given they use the same socket

spending 400 euros on bling and OC capability is not as good as getting a better GPU (or even 2) from the get go.
September 4, 2012 10:03:11 PM

Yeah I think you are right BigTroll, the nice watercooling looks might have blinded me for some time there, but gotta keep focus on my comfort using the system, I mean I'm not buying a computer to just sit there and look at it :D  But I would definitely go for some yellow leds to keep it's aesthetic value of YELLOW BUILD up.

You guys are confusing me, I don't know what to choose from now for the time being, Ivy or Sandy? Also, I'm not too sure about the choice of GPU. I barely followed the market since 2006. Is ATI still crap? Or does it compete with nVidea? I have no clue really, I would go for an ASUS card anyway.
September 4, 2012 10:06:01 PM

ATI is decent for the money. they compete nicely

asus cards arent as good as you think. the msi twin frozr 4 coolers are better and msi is the only company that lets you overvolt your cards (more voltage=more power=usually higher overclocks)
September 4, 2012 11:33:54 PM

Depth08 said:
Yeah I think you are right BigTroll, the nice watercooling looks might have blinded me for some time there, but gotta keep focus on my comfort using the system, I mean I'm not buying a computer to just sit there and look at it :D  But I would definitely go for some yellow leds to keep it's aesthetic value of YELLOW BUILD up.

You guys are confusing me, I don't know what to choose from now for the time being, Ivy or Sandy? Also, I'm not too sure about the choice of GPU. I barely followed the market since 2006. Is ATI still crap? Or does it compete with nVidea? I have no clue really, I would go for an ASUS card anyway.

Simple version: Ivybridge is better performance, and more features, than Sandybridge. Virtually same price. Unless you're into overclocking, for overclocking's sake, not a difficult choice.
Personally, prefer nVidia, all other things being equal. Would still consider Radeon, if better value for money. Having said that GTX 660Ti is very good card, and more than adequate for your needs. No reason to change, unless you want to spend more, to get even more performance.
September 4, 2012 11:36:37 PM

the 7870 is a much better deal than the 660ti here but depends on the local prices
September 4, 2012 11:59:14 PM

TheBigTroll said:
the 7870 is a much better deal than the 660ti here but depends on the local prices

Certainly agree that HD 7870 is better VALUE, across a broad range of benchmarks, but in specific games like BF3, Shogun, Portal the Gtx 660Ti is a lot better, to justify it's premium. Other games, like Chrysis, Metro, Batman, if not better, the HD 7870 is much better VALUE.
September 5, 2012 12:04:17 AM

the big thing about nvidia cards is that they are generally perferred by more games than amd cards

also, nvidia rigs some games so that it looks way better or runs much better on their cards. if you dont know, go to youtube and search up borderlands 2 physx demo
September 5, 2012 9:51:14 PM

I indeed noticed the difference with nVidea, basicly never had nVidea Cards, almost always ATI because their price range can go from very cheap to expensive while there aren't as many cheap nVidea cards around, or so it seems in my local hardware stores.

So what's up with Aero-based cooling? My current build has poor flow I suppose. Sometimes it just shuts itself down even though it's not a hot summer day. How to know you got an effective airflow? How to deal with dust? Watercooling made good sense, but never really deepened in the basic water cooling, tell me what's up.
September 5, 2012 10:38:03 PM

Depth08 said:
I indeed noticed the difference with nVidea, basicly never had nVidea Cards, almost always ATI because their price range can go from very cheap to expensive while there aren't as many cheap nVidea cards around, or so it seems in my local hardware stores.

So what's up with Aero-based cooling? My current build has poor flow I suppose. Sometimes it just shuts itself down even though it's not a hot summer day. How to know you got an effective airflow? How to deal with dust? Watercooling made good sense, but never really deepened in the basic water cooling, tell me what's up.

Nothing wrong with air cooling. To be honest, problems with cooling can be as much to do with lack of care in installation, and poor maintenance, as with the equipment itself. Careful application of decent thermal paste, careful/balanced tightening in assembly, cleaning and occassionally replacing filters, make the world of difference. For cooling, personally, I quite like closed loop liquid coolers. A bit pricier than air, but good performance, and neater, sometimes easier (to get right) installation. I know a lot of people will disagree with me, and say "what about leaks", but I just haven't heard of loads of them leaking. Just my personal opinion.
September 5, 2012 11:36:42 PM

having dust problems is not as bad as having a leak. but then you can argue that watercooling is pretty safe or that you can prevent dust using filters

closed loop coolers are very easy to install (except for the ones that have weird mounting rings) but air coolers are usually better in performance and in value
September 6, 2012 12:21:16 AM

of course but the stuff you watercool better be worth the watercooling price and maintenance
September 6, 2012 12:21:37 AM

TheBigTroll said:
having dust problems is not as bad as having a leak. but then you can argue that watercooling is pretty safe or that you can prevent dust using filters

closed loop coolers are very easy to install (except for the ones that have weird mounting rings) but air coolers are usually better in performance and in value


nah....nothing like a kick-ass top of the line watercooling loop :D 
September 6, 2012 12:51:23 AM

A lot of people neglect filters. The type of fans, fitted to cases, are great at moving lots of air, but useless at overcoming the resistance of a dirty filter. The better quality the filter, the quicker it gets clogged with dust. Blowing out, even washing helps, but doesn't actually clean a filter. They should be replaced, every few months, even if they "look" clean.
September 6, 2012 7:41:18 PM

Ok righ now I have a computer with no filters and every few months I have to take everything appart & clean out all dust, probably takes up 4 hours or so. Using filters will clog them up like you say, and reduce the cooling potential of the fans.

All that is fine to be honest, don't wanna spend € 300 watercooling a build that is only 4x more expensive. But tell me, how should the airflow look like? How does heat dissipation work in air cooling? Should I put a fan on the top to blow out rising heat? Should I place fans blowing in as low as possible? Really I don't know so that's what I was hoping you could tell me. Also, for a case, now that I'm not going for watercooling, anybody knows about fractal cases? Are they good? I like their looks but nothing more than that.
September 6, 2012 8:48:17 PM

Decent filters, that you clean regularly, and replace occassionaly is the way to go. Slightly clogged filters are a lot less harmful, than a CPU cooler clogged with dust, and a lot easier to clean. The cooling that comes with decent cases is usually more than adequate, until you overclock a lot, or add second GPU. You can always change them for more air, or more quiet, or add a fan. Normally "suck it and see", is not a bad policy. Fractal Design are pretty good. Quite like Corsair Carbide, or graphite. A lot of it is what you like the look of.
September 6, 2012 11:25:21 PM

just grab a couple of coffee filters and tape them onto your intake areas. cheapest way to do things
September 7, 2012 12:36:30 AM

TheBigTroll said:
just grab a couple of coffee filters and tape them onto your intake areas. cheapest way to do things


lol, ghetto style
September 8, 2012 5:53:12 PM

BTW, If I would go for a P8Z68 GEN3 mobo with an ivy i5 3450, I read I would require a BIOS update? How in hells name will I do that?
September 8, 2012 7:18:04 PM

I don't know where Z68 crept into the conversation, that's a real mis-match, even if it WILL work. There's not much point going to a Z77, with a locked CPU either. H77 gives the best performance, if not overclocking.
September 8, 2012 8:18:32 PM

H77 does not support PCI-e 3.0 or am I wrong?

I read that for IVY bridge the following chipsets give the most support: H61, H67, P67, and Z68
September 8, 2012 8:24:52 PM

It does. So does B75 and Z75.

None of the chipsets you listed will work with IVB out of the box.
September 8, 2012 9:52:59 PM

What exactly makes the difference between ASUS P8Z77 & P8H77? Both are said to be 2nd/3rd generation processor compatible?
September 8, 2012 9:54:32 PM

The Z77 can OC and the H77 cannot.
September 8, 2012 10:00:33 PM

Then why the hell would I go for the H77, I thought you guys were telling me the Z77 was a sandy-bridge only chipset or something... Confused me
September 8, 2012 10:05:54 PM

No one told you that.
September 8, 2012 10:12:01 PM

Misunderstandings, think I'm gonna go with the P8Z77-V PRO. For the graphics cards mentioned above, what kind of power supply is recommended?
September 8, 2012 10:16:04 PM

A 520W Antec NEO ECO.
September 8, 2012 10:28:08 PM

Depth08 said:
Then why the hell would I go for the H77, I thought you guys were telling me the Z77 was a sandy-bridge only chipset or something... Confused me

Just to TRY to clarify (it isn't easy)
All these boards will WORK, or can be MADE to work.
The boards which are MOST suitable for IVYBRIDGE have 7, as the first NUMBER.
If you have a "K" processor (overclockable), the BEST board is Z77, because that gives you ALL the features + overclocking
If you don't want to overclock ie a non "K" processor, the best board is H77, because the gives you ALL the features, just no overclocking.
The B75 and Z75 give you a bit of both, but aren't a great benefit if you don't want to overclock. If you do want to overclock, they give a "budget" OC solution.

Think I've got that (sort of) right, confess it confuses me sometimes. Too many damn numbers.
September 8, 2012 10:33:08 PM

Depth08 said:
Misunderstandings, think I'm gonna go with the P8Z77-V PRO. For the graphics cards mentioned above, what kind of power supply is recommended?

Given the confusions over processors, and boards ,what have you decided to use with the Asus P8Z77-V PRO?
September 8, 2012 10:37:48 PM

i5 3550 ivy probably.
September 8, 2012 11:09:24 PM

Depth08 said:
i5 3550 ivy probably.


you mean i5 3570k.
September 9, 2012 9:55:02 AM

Yes, don't know what other sugestions you guys would have for mobo/cpu
September 9, 2012 11:14:30 AM

Ok the GTX660 TI costs € 349,95
and the ATI HD 7870 €365,00 only €15 more.

Which one should I go with? I know it would depend heavily on which games I'd play the most. For starts I'm not planning to play anything like BF3 :p 

Also I read for the GTX 660 TI you need a 450W PSU, will that be enough?
September 9, 2012 11:29:45 AM

Depth08 said:
Ok the GTX660 TI costs € 349,95
and the ATI HD 7870 €365,00 only €15 more.

Which one should I go with? I know it would depend heavily on which games I'd play the most. For starts I'm not planning to play anything like BF3 :p 

Also I read for the GTX 660 TI you need a 450W PSU, will that be enough?


Yes, it is enough.

P.S.: Water-cooling is a very expensive and time-consuming hobby.
September 9, 2012 11:33:43 AM

Yes, which is why I'm going with air cooling from now on. Btw the case I will be going with is an ANTEC Gaming Eleven Hundred. Looks pretty sweet for it's value.
September 9, 2012 11:34:18 AM

Depth08 said:
Ok the GTX660 TI costs € 349,95
and the ATI HD 7870 €365,00 only €15 more.

Which one should I go with? I know it would depend heavily on which games I'd play the most. For starts I'm not planning to play anything like BF3 :p 

Also I read for the GTX 660 TI you need a 450W PSU, will that be enough?

Which SPECIFIC 660Ti and HD7870 are you considering. Like for like the HD7870 is CHEAPER. Normally I would say the 660Ti is slightly better (for the games I like), but the HD7870 possibly is better VALUE, but NOT if the 7870 is dearer.
On PSU, if you want to allow yourself some room to overclock, I would say something like 550W. 500W is "adequate", but I wouldn't go any lower.
September 9, 2012 12:31:35 PM

if the 7870 is more expensive, get the 660ti but it has to be a aftermarket version like the msi power edition
September 9, 2012 1:32:21 PM

Aftermarket version? Fill me in please I don't think I have experience in that field :p 
September 9, 2012 1:43:36 PM

aftermarket coolers: open style and not using a single blower fan

reference coolers: blower fan
September 9, 2012 3:18:44 PM

Depth08 said:
Aftermarket version? Fill me in please I don't think I have experience in that field :p 


here:




the cooler on the far left side is a GTX660ti with a stock cooler, the other ones are aftermarket coolers (they're a lot quieter, keep the car cooler and allows it to overclock a lot more.)
September 9, 2012 3:33:16 PM

What? Anyway you probably mean I should go for the MSI version of this card? The MSI GeForce GTX 660 Ti Power Edition Costs about €330. Sounds like it would be better going for this one.

September 9, 2012 3:33:53 PM

the best one would be the one next to the evga card
!