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September 4, 2012 5:02:40 AM

So I just moved to the US from Sweden and im in need of building a pc, I will fill out the template provided in the sticky.

Approximate Purchase Date: As soon as possible!

Budget Range: No more than 1700 (including screen) i can push for 1800 if need be,
System Usage from Most to Least Important: Gaming, school, surfing etc all the good stuff.

Are you buying a monitor: Yes

Parts to Upgrade: Everything except mouse, have the logitech g9x mouse

Do you need to buy OS: No

Preferred Website(s) for Parts: Newegg, even though I need to open up an american bank now because of them..

Location: Illinois, US.

Parts Preferences: In additional comments

Overclocking: for sure down the line

SLI or Crossfire: yes, want to future proof

Your Monitor Resolution: not sure about what to get though, something that is LED backlit and at least 21 inches, and 2ms? not sure about the 60hz (hz is that right) compare to the 120 one? is it worth it?1980x 1080 lowest resolution?

Additional Comments: Ive picked most of my parts to my best knowledge over the last week or so, reading reviews, watching videos etc. But im unsure on the graphics card and Ram as there are soo many choices to pick from. Id like to get low profile Ram so i can use the nh d14 cpu heatsink that i plan on purchasing, but also what is the recommended mhz one needs? 1600? 2133? is there a big improvement between them?Also Id like to get 2x8 in order to have 2 free slots open for future proofing to 32 gb when its needed. Now the graphic card to me is quite overwhelming since there are so many manufactures, ive come to the conclusion I want a 670, im just unsure which one.. anyhow, here are the parts ive picked so far. Please any feedback is appreciated, if theres something better for cheaper or something in my list just plainly sucks let me know :) 


COOLER MASTER HAF X RC-942-KKN1 Black Steel/ Plastic ATX Full Tower
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

LER MASTER Silent Pro Gold Series RS800-80GAD3-US 800W ATX 12V v2.3 / EPS 12V v2.92 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular Active PFC
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Crucial M4 CT128M4SSD2CCA 2.5" 128GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Intel Core i5-3570K Ivy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo)
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

ASRock Z77 Extreme6 LGA 1155 Intel Z77 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Western Digital Caviar Blue WD5000AAKX 500GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5"
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Along with these I also decided to get this pc tool kit just in case and a anti static wrist wrap.

Rosewill RTK-045 45 Piece Premium Computer Tool Kit
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

XTRAC PADS Ripper Optical Mouse pad
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Microsoft SIDEWINDER X4 Keyboard
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...



And Most Importantly, Why Are You Upgrading: New life in America means a new computer to build, also this is my first time, so im a little nervous as to how it will go. Also im sick of playing bf3 and other games on the lowest lowest settings in order to increase fps in mp games

Not sure if im missing any components if I did let me know!
really appreciate the help, dont know what I would do without the internet to help me (no computer?) :p 

Thanks!
September 4, 2012 5:09:41 AM

Where in IL do you live?
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September 4, 2012 5:20:00 AM

azeem40 said:
Where in IL do you live?


Palatine, Why?
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September 4, 2012 5:25:22 AM

DeusAres said:
The following is one of the highest potential overclockers...

ASUS GTX670-DC2-2GD5
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

If you're not comfortable with overclocking yourself, grab this version instead. It's faster than a GTX 680 straight out of the box...

MSI N670 PE 2GD5/OC GeForce GTX 670
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...


mmm, Well Ive never overclocked before but im not afraid to learn and try, theres always a first time for everything. The asus one has the highest OC potentional? but in reality couldnt the MSI be over clocked ontop of the factory overclock to beat the asus? sorry if its a stupid question.
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September 4, 2012 5:35:56 AM

Here is a build similar to your suggestions, let me know what you think?

$1310 - $30 MIR = $1280
3570k Mid Range build
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September 4, 2012 5:40:21 AM

How far are you from these Microcenter locations?
Central
Westmont
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September 4, 2012 5:48:14 AM

lunyone said:
Here is a build similar to your suggestions, let me know what you think?

$1310 - $30 MIR = $1280
3570k Mid Range build


Well, one thing there is the 4x2 gb of ram, would rather get 8x2, makes more sense to me. And from the moderate research ive done, i know nothing about ATI (should of prob been looking at both nvidia and ATI)
Thats a pretty nifty site though! Ah I knew I had forgot something! the DVD reader/burner, thank u!:) 

azeem40 said:
How far are you from these Microcenter locations?
Central
Westmont


about 40 min? Ive never heard of micro center? they are only an in store retailer?

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September 4, 2012 5:55:57 AM

ponymony said:
Well, one thing there is the 4x2 gb of ram, would rather get 8x2, makes more sense to me. And from the moderate research ive done, i know nothing about ATI (should of prob been looking at both nvidia and ATI)
Thats a pretty nifty site though! Ah I knew I had forgot something! the DVD reader/burner, thank u!:) 



about 40 min? Ive never heard of micro center? they are only an in store retailer?

* It's 2 x 4 gb's = 8 gb's not 4 x 2 (which takes up 4 DIMM slots).
* ATI/AMD is the other GPU manufacturer. If you prefer nVidia than I'd consider the GTX 670, but it's over $400! Here is Tom's link to the best GPU's for the $, August edition.
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September 4, 2012 5:56:47 AM

They have the i5-3570k for $190 and $50 off a Z77 motherboard if you buy them as a combo.
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September 4, 2012 10:39:33 AM

ponymony said:
mmm, Well Ive never overclocked before but im not afraid to learn and try, theres always a first time for everything. The asus one has the highest OC potentional? but in reality couldnt the MSI be over clocked ontop of the factory overclock to beat the asus? sorry if its a stupid question.


Yes, but the Asus has better cooling. Some people have overclocked theirs to around 1300 MHz without too much trouble. If you do OC the MSI more than it's factory speeds, it won't be a huge difference. Nevertheless, it's still a great card.

Quote:
Well, one thing there is the 4x2 gb of ram, would rather get 8x2, makes more sense to me. And from the moderate research ive done, i know nothing about ATI (should of prob been looking at both nvidia and ATI)


Make sure you grab either 2x4gb or 2x8gb. The first number signifies the number of dimms you're buying. A 4x2gb kit will take up all your slots, and with a 8x2gb kit you won't have enough room for all 8 dimms. Make sure you just grab 2 dimms considering your motherboard supports dual channel memory. Everything will run much more smoother this way and you'll be able to upgrade in the future without issues.
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September 5, 2012 1:17:19 AM

DeusAres said:
Yes, but the Asus has better cooling. Some people have overclocked their's to around 1300 MHz without too much trouble. If you do OC the MSI more than it's factory speeds, it won't be a huge difference. Nevertheless, it's still a great card.

Quote:
Well, one thing there is the 4x2 gb of ram, would rather get 8x2, makes more sense to me. And from the moderate research ive done, i know nothing about ATI (should of prob been looking at both nvidia and ATI)


Make sure you grab either 2x4gb or 2x8gb. The first number signifies the number of dimms you're buying. A 4x2gb kit will take up all your slots, and with a 8x2gb kit you won't have enough room for all 8 dimms. Make sure you just grab 2 dimms considering your motherboard supports dual channel memory. Everything will run much more smoother this way and you'll be able to upgrade in the future without issues.



Ah ok, we'll then the asus it is, do they work fine in sli? Down the road I plan on adding a second card.

Thanks, didn't knOw there was a order to the numbers should of figured.
That's what I meant though, I'd rather get 2x8 leaving room for buying a second pair late filling up all 4 slots, hitting 32 gb. But which ram are good? Which low profile are the most known/best that people buy? I hear g skill is good, but which model?
And is there a big diff between 1333, 1600, 2133?

And I'll have to look up what dual channel means.

And as for the screen, I went tO best buy (pretty cool/big store, we don't have a big electric store like that in sweden) today just to browse, looked through the different sizes of screens to gage what size I'd want. I think 24 inch, is it worth getting a 120hz screen?
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September 5, 2012 2:40:53 AM

ponymony said:
Ah ok, we'll then the asus it is, do they work fine in sli? Down the road I plan on adding a second card.

Thanks, didn't knOw there was a order to the numbers should of figured.
That's what I meant though, I'd rather get 2x8 leaving room for buying a second pair late filling up all 4 slots, hitting 32 gb. But which ram are good? Which low profile are the most known/best that people buy? I hear g skill is good, but which model?
And is there a big diff between 1333, 1600, 2133?

And I'll have to look up what dual channel means.

And as for the screen, I went tO best buy (pretty cool/big store, we don't have a big electric store like that in sweden) today just to browse, looked through the different sizes of screens to gage what size I'd want. I think 24 inch, is it worth getting a 120hz screen?


As for the RAM, just get the standard 1600MHz memory at 9-9-9-24 cas timings. Also, make sure it's rated for 1.5 volts or below.

G.Skill is great. I recommend G.Skill Ares for it's low profile heatspreaders.

As for the 16gb and 32gb of RAM, you won't even start to require that amount of RAM before they come out with next gen. By that time you'll be looking at DDR4 or DDR5 dimms. Usually 8gb is enough for gaming, but if you plan on doing video editing or something, the 16gb kit would be great.

Dual channel just means that your motherboard supports or rather functions optimally with a minimum of two memory dimms versus a single dimm or 3 dimms.

The Asus GPU would be an excellent choice to run in SLI. It's a dual slot card, meaning it doesn't take up as much space versus a 3 slot card. This leaves a second PCI express lane open...assuming your motherboard supports it; which in your case, it'll work just fine.
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September 5, 2012 10:19:34 PM

DeusAres said:
As for the RAM, just get the standard 1600MHz memory at 9-9-9-24 cas timings. Also, make sure it's rated for 1.5 volts or below.

G.Skill is great. I recommend G.Skill Ares for it's low profile heatspreaders.

As for the 16gb and 32gb of RAM, you won't even start to require that amount of RAM before they come out with next gen. By that time you'll be looking at DDR4 or DDR5 dimms. Usually 8gb is enough for gaming, but if you plan on doing video editing or something, the 16gb kit would be great.

Dual channel just means that your motherboard supports or rather functions optimally with a minimum of two memory dimms versus a single dimm or 3 dimms.

The Asus GPU would be an excellent choice to run in SLI. It's a dual slot card, meaning it doesn't take up as much space versus a 3 slot card. This leaves a second PCI express lane open...assuming your motherboard supports it; which in your case, it'll work just fine.


I heard some reviews on the ares together with my motherboard that it has problems? what about the x series?

Not much video editing, mostly gaming, bf3, skyrim etc.

how come 1.5v or below?

But alright ill stick with 8 gb then!:)  2x4 most likely then.

Any idea on a type of screen to get?

And thanks for all the help by the way!

EDIT: Do you think my case is a bit excesive? Also, i probably wont be ordering the nh d14 right now, is the stock cpu cooler sufficient enough for bf3 etc?

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September 5, 2012 10:29:11 PM

ponymony said:
I heard some reviews on the ares together with my motherboard that it has problems? what about the x series?

Not much video editing, mostly gaming, bf3, skyrim etc.

how come 1.5v or below?

But alright ill stick with 8 gb then!:)  2x4 most likely then.

Any idea on a type of screen to get?

And thanks for all the help by the way!

EDIT: Do you think my case is a bit excesive? Also, i probably wont be ordering the nh d14 right now, is the stock cpu cooler sufficient enough for bf3 etc?


Anything above 1.5 volts will cause your CPU/mobo warranty to become void.

As for the screen, I'd just go for a 1920x1080 and 23 or 24 inch screen @60Hz.

G.Skill Ares will work just fine with your motherboard. The X series will work great as well.

Monitor recommendation...

Asus VE248H Black 24"
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
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September 6, 2012 7:39:53 PM

DeusAres said:
Anything above 1.5 volts will cause your CPU/mobo warranty to become void.

As for the screen, I'd just go for a 1920x1080 and 23 or 24 inch screen @60Hz.

G.Skill Ares will work just fine with your motherboard. The X series will work great as well.

Monitor recommendation...

Asus VE248H Black 24"
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...


Thanks! I was actually looking at that screen earlier.

What do timings on ram mean? Is it a must with ram with those timings you listed?

And my case, not to much? I know its massive, but it is quite future proof wouldnt you say?

Also, I feel so dumb, youre 19 and you know so much about computers xD
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September 6, 2012 8:06:43 PM

For the CAS timings, lower numbers generally mean the RAM is faster. The "MHz" speeds are just the opposite. Higher MHz and low CAS timings are optimal. RAM at 1600MHz with timings of 9-9-9-24 is usually what gamers use. It's really not that significant. It typically all performs the same in games. Anything at or above 1333MHz with timings at or below 9-9-9-24 is good enough for most tasks.

Your case is an excellent option. Plenty of airflow and room for cable management. The LEDs give it a nice touch. It'll be a strong contender for many years to come. :) 

Well, I am currently majoring in Computer Science; so it's more or less a must. ;) 
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September 8, 2012 12:14:17 AM

DeusAres said:
For the CAS timings, lower numbers generally mean the RAM is faster. The "MHz" speeds are just the opposite. Higher MHz and low CAS timings are optimal. RAM at 1600MHz with timings of 9-9-9-24 is usually what gamers use. It's really not that significant. It typically all performs the same in games. Anything at or above 1333MHz with timings at or below 9-9-9-24 is optimal.

Your case is an excellent option. Plenty of airflow and room for cable management. The LEDs give it a nice touch. It'll be a strong contender for many years to come. :) 

Well, I am currently majoring in Computer Science; so it's more or less a must. ;) 


Will do! I found these, http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... RAM, they ok?

And just to double triple check, everything is compatible right?:p  this is my final.

https://secure.newegg.com/WishList/MySavedWishDetail.as...
has the exact timings as you suggested along with 1.25V

Anything Im missing or need?

Extra 120mm fan for the case as theres only one on top? or is that not needed.

I decided to skip SSD for now as im borrowing 1700 dollars from a friend to buy this (still no american bank card)

Also, yeah, any more pointers before I do it :) ?

And ahh, ok.. even though, I dont have one main subject that im as proficient as you are in computer science ;) 

EDIT: knew I forgot something, DVD/CD buriner.

I have an extremly silly question. DVD burners are also drives? Obviously.

How difficult is it to build a computer? Im kind of nervous to screw *** up, obviously ill be reading guides etc, will have a laptop on the side handy so i can look up stuff in case something goes wrong.
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September 8, 2012 1:44:46 AM

Hey there!

"Switch" the HAF X out for the NZXT Switch 810. I have both cases (one for each of my rigs, I built with the HAF X last time and the Switch 810 for the one you see in my sig, although I still have the other rig) and trust me, the Switch 810 is much better. It has more airflow (11 fans in it at the moment), better cable management (seriously, the cable management is insane, better than the HAF X), looks much cooler/low profile yet stunning (of course this is up to you), and has more space/spots for radiators if you ever water cool (you can fit like 2-3 huge rads in here).

Good luck!
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September 8, 2012 1:52:05 AM

nsouter853 said:
Hey there!

"Switch" the HAF X out for the NZXT Switch 810. I have both cases (one for each of my rigs, I built with the HAF X last time and the Switch 810 for the one you see in my sig, although I still have the other rig) and trust me, the Switch 810 is much better. It has more airflow (11 fans in it at the moment), better cable management (seriously, the cable management is insane, better than the HAF X), looks much cooler/low profile yet stunning (of course this is up to you), and has more space/spots for radiators if you ever water cool (you can fit like 2-3 huge rads in here).

Good luck!


I was thinking about watercooling sometime down the road. Ill take a look at some reviews of it and read a bit. Guess I wont be ordering it this second xD

Deus, what are you're thoughts on that case?
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September 8, 2012 2:30:42 AM

ponymony said:
I was thinking about watercooling sometime down the road.?


Aye, just from looking at what others have done, and at my case to my right, you could put in a 140x3 (420) rad on top in push/pull (the case is designed specifically for push/pull up there, sick right?), a 140x2 in the front in push/pull, a 140x2 (280) on the bottom, and a 140x1 in the back. Of course you would pick and choose which ones to use, you would never need all of em. Or you could switch out all of the 140's to 120's if you really prefer.
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September 8, 2012 2:58:19 AM

nsouter853 said:
Aye, just from looking at what others have done, and at my case to my right, you could put in a 140x3 (420) rad on top in push/pull (the case is designed specifically for push/pull up there, sick right?), a 140x2 in the front in push/pull, a 140x2 (280) on the bottom, and a 140x1 in the back. Of course you would pick and choose which ones to use, you would never need all of em. Or you could switch out all of the 140's to 120's if you really prefer.


Oh damn, so people do buy extra fans etc, Its not imperative that I do this right away though? Stock things will work fine for a bit?

Along with stock CPU cooler? its not an absolute must to get it right away right?

As i dont plan on overclocking directly, will buy CPU cooler and more fans in 2 months or so.

/thanks!

EDIT: yeah thats why I chose the case, air flow, heard its very good, very big, and when need be I just add watercooling :) 
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September 8, 2012 3:19:34 AM

It's not imparative to buy fans right away, but sooner rather than later is always better. Stock fans/stock cpu cooler will work fine if you don't stress it too bad or overclock. You will want to put in more fans and an aftermarket cooler asap though.

Yeah, the HAF-X is great, don't get me wrong. It is pretty big and has great airflow, but the NZXT Switch 810 is just newer and plainly better. MORE space where you need it, BETTER airflow with all the fans (11 in mine), BETTER cable management, and way more spots for radiators with liquid cooling. Now that's not saying the HAF-X is not an option, it is certainly viable, but the Switch is just a step ahead because it's newer.
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September 8, 2012 3:38:59 AM

nsouter853 said:
It's not imparative to buy fans right away, but sooner rather than later is always better. Stock fans/stock cpu cooler will work fine if you don't stress it too bad or overclock. You will want to put in more fans and an aftermarket cooler asap though.

Yeah, the HAF-X is great, don't get me wrong. It is pretty big and has great airflow, but the NZXT Switch 810 is just newer and plainly better. MORE space where you need it, BETTER airflow with all the fans (11 in mine), BETTER cable management, and way more spots for radiators with liquid cooling. Now that's not saying the HAF-X is not an option, it is certainly viable, but the Switch is just a step ahead because it's newer.


Indeed, well I donnt plan on doing any overclocking anyhow until I buy better CPU cooler (nh d14)
And I guess fans as well!

Well it makes sense newer means better, as the HAF is quite old I believe?

How come cases dont include all fans? Odd they make you buy extra etc.

is the NZXT BIG like the HAF? for sli, or 3 way etc years down the road?
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September 8, 2012 5:46:42 AM

They don't include all the fans for 2 reasons:
1) It's expensive ($10-20/fan)
2) They want you to be able to customize what kind of fans you want to use in your case, be it silent, super airflow, balanced, etc.

Yes the NZXT is HUGE. Plenty of space for 2-3-4 graphics cards, if your mobo can handle it. You can also remove/rearrange all the case hardware inside, so you can customize how much space there is and where.
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September 8, 2012 5:04:34 PM

nsouter853 said:
They don't include all the fans for 2 reasons:
1) It's expensive ($10-20/fan)
2) They want you to be able to customize what kind of fans you want to use in your case, be it silent, super airflow, balanced, etc.

Yes the NZXT is HUGE. Plenty of space for 2-3-4 graphics cards, if your mobo can handle it. You can also remove/rearrange all the case hardware inside, so you can customize how much space there is and where.


Well, just forthe future, all that would need to be done is replace motherboard instead of replacing motherboard and case etc.
Thats the reason I decided to get such a powerful PSU as well, itll hopefully last me a while.

It makes sense though, I was looking at noctua fans to add, they are quite expensive!

Ill be going with the nzxt, since Its massive, watched some reviews off it, and it has excellent cable management and of course the option to add radiators later.
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September 8, 2012 11:39:58 PM

The NZXT Switch 810 is an excellent case. It'll support all your needs. And yes, you can use the stock cooler for now. You won't be able to overclock, however, until you get an aftermarket cooler.

The switch 810 should also already come with quite a few fans; so, you shouldn't have to worry about buying too many extra fans just yet.
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September 9, 2012 12:09:18 AM

DeusAres said:
The NZXT Switch 810 is an excellent case. It'll support all your needs. And yes, you can use the stock cooler for now. You won't be able to overclock, however, until you get an aftermarket cooler.

The switch 810 should also already come with quite a few fans; so, you shouldn't have to worry about buying too many extra fans just yet.



Alright then!:) 

Im pretty much set then, going to order it any minute now.

The psu, is it a reliable brand? I hear that only certain brands are known to be good quality PSU.
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September 9, 2012 12:19:44 AM

Yeah that PSU brand is good. I personally prefer Corsair, though. I would go for a Corsair AX750 at that price. The AX750 is a bit better because it is fully-modular.
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September 9, 2012 3:53:06 AM

nsouter853 said:
Yeah that PSU brand is good. I personally prefer Corsair, though. I would go for a Corsair AX750 at that price. The AX750 is a bit better because it is fully-modular.

Fully modular meaning the cords not being used can be taken off as they are not attached, right? (noob I know)

The graphic card that I am getting, is it the absolute best in the range of 670's?

Phew I'm never gonna be able to order my computer xD

Thanks btw for all the help^^
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September 9, 2012 4:00:35 AM

1) Yes that is what fully modular is. Not only is it super convenient, but it also improves airflow a bit. It will make your case look a lot less sloppy too. If you get a big windowed case, get a modular PSU. Hell, if you get any case get modular. I will never build without modular haha, but that's just me.

2) If you are getting a GTX 670, yes, that is the best card in that range. While there may be a Radeon equivalent that has better or similar performance in SOME games, such is the nature of the graphics card industry. Nvidias will do better in some games, Radeons in others. Overall, however, the 670 is the fastest card in it's price range though. And let me tell you from experience, it's awesome.
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September 9, 2012 4:43:42 AM

I hid all my cables behind the mobo and it didn't affect performance one bit.
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September 12, 2012 3:06:25 AM

nsouter853 said:
1) Yes that is what fully modular is. Not only is it super convenient, but it also improves airflow a bit. It will make your case look a lot less sloppy too. If you get a big windowed case, get a modular PSU. Hell, if you get any case get modular. I will never build without modular haha, but that's just me.

2) If you are getting a GTX 670, yes, that is the best card in that range. While there may be a Radeon equivalent that has better or similar performance in SOME games, such is the nature of the graphics card industry. Nvidias will do better in some games, Radeons in others. Overall, however, the 670 is the fastest card in it's price range though. And let me tell you from experience, it's awesome.


Alright, well I did switch the PSU for a fully modular one. Ordered the pc last night, kind of annoying that its in 3 different shipments (one of the shipments is just the hdmi cable alone...)

and as for the asus GTX 670, I think I'm happy with it, although maybe I should of gotten the Gigabyte N670OC-2GD after reading a roundup of the 670 cards from here:
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/geforce-gtx-670-tes...

Any thoughts?

Also, in the future, for SLI, does one need to get the same exact card? or can one get another 670 brand (not the Asus that I have)

Thanks!
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September 12, 2012 3:14:09 AM

ponymony said:
Alright, well I did switch the PSU for a fully modular one. Ordered the pc last night, kind of annoying that its in 3 different shipments (one of the shipments is just the hdmi cable alone...)

and as for the asus GTX 670, I think I'm happy with it, although maybe I should of gotten the Gigabyte N670OC-2GD after reading a roundup of the 670 cards from here:
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/geforce-gtx-670-tes...

Any thoughts?

Also, in the future, for SLI, does one need to get the same exact card? or can one get another 670 brand (not the Asus that I have)

Thanks!


Meh, I wouldn't worry about it. The Asus model should have higher overclocking potential. Just use MSI Afterburner and overclock the hell outta that card. You'll be more than satisfied.

For SLI, you can get a different brand of the card...just make sure it's a gtx 670 that you're doing SLI with. For example, don't pair a gtx 670 with a gtx 680.
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September 12, 2012 3:45:40 AM

DeusAres said:
Meh, I wouldn't worry about it. The Asus model should have higher overclocking potential. Just use MSI Afterburner and overclock the hell outta that card. You'll be more than satisfied.

For SLI, you can get a different brand of the card...just make sure it's a gtx 670 that you're doing SLI with. For example, don't pair a gtx 670 with a gtx 680.


Sounds good! over clocking is fairly simple as well I presume? not going into super over clocking or anything

Yeah thats what I thought, but does the dedicated ram change anything? such as having the asus 2 gb with a evga superclocked 4 gb?
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September 12, 2012 3:53:41 AM

It has to have the same amount of Vram too; otherwise it's just a waste. It'll automatically default to using the lowest amount of Vram between the two cards.

2gb paired with 2gb.

4gb paired with 4gb.
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September 12, 2012 4:00:34 AM

DeusAres said:
It has to have the same amount of Vram too; otherwise it's just a waste. It'll automatically default to using the lowest amount of Vram between the two cards.

2gb paired with 2gb.

4gb paired with 4gb.


Alright!

Thanks a bunch for your help, learned quite a bit from the people on here and a bit of research.

Computer parts should be coming on Thursday/Friday, hopefully they'll all come in the same ups truck (3 separate orders).


I hope the assembly goes smoothly. If not I'll be reposting on a new thread ;) 

again thanks a bunch!
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September 12, 2012 4:32:12 AM

No problem; good luck with your build! :) 
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September 12, 2012 8:37:30 AM

ponymony said:
Alright!

Thanks a bunch for your help, learned quite a bit from the people on here and a bit of research.

Computer parts should be coming on Thursday/Friday, hopefully they'll all come in the same ups truck (3 separate orders).


I hope the assembly goes smoothly. If not I'll be reposting on a new thread ;) 

again thanks a bunch!

Let us know how it all turns out, so we can learn from your experience :) 
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September 12, 2012 3:21:15 PM

lunyone said:
Let us know how it all turns out, so we can learn from your experience :) 


Will do! Thanks!
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September 13, 2012 3:26:56 AM

Hello!

I'm back!

I have a question regarding shipping. I've tried searching newegg but couldn't find an answer.

Because of my bank card dilemma (cant order without an American bank account card etc)

So I asked a friend to loan me 1700 dollars for the build, I ordered it the other day, when tracking the shipments, it seems all 3 orders are in IL now, about 40minutes from palatine (where I ordered the stuff to, friends house) which is about 1 hour and 30 minutes from my apartment.
So I'm guessing itll show up tomorrow, question is what time? Do they usually deliver at noon (ups 3 day guarantee)?

Also how does ups deliver to apartments? (for when I order more things as soon as my Card arrives from the American bank I signed up with today)

Thanks!
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September 13, 2012 4:53:14 AM

I'm not sure about delivering to apartments, but I'm guessing they just bring it to your door right? Call the shipping company to be sure.

And the time they deliver varies depending on where you live. I live kind of in the hills/isolated area in my county, so the mail and shipping people usually come to my house last, around 5. On the other hand, my friend lives in the suburbs, and they drop his stuff off usually in the morning. It all comes down to the specific shipping person's route for the day.

If you think you may not be there, you can always just leave a note on the door saying "UPS/Fedex/Whatever please leave packages at the door, thanks!" or something, unless you're worried about it getting stolen from your door. If it's an apartment maybe there's like a mail room or attendant there that can hold packages? I don't know, ask around.
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September 13, 2012 5:16:03 AM

nsouter853 said:
I'm not sure about delivering to apartments, but I'm guessing they just bring it to your door right? Call the shipping company to be sure.

And the time they deliver varies depending on where you live. I live kind of in the hills/isolated area in my county, so the mail and shipping people usually come to my house last, around 5. On the other hand, my friend lives in the suburbs, and they drop his stuff off usually in the morning. It all comes down to the specific shipping person's route for the day.

If you think you may not be there, you can always just leave a note on the door saying "UPS/Fedex/Whatever please leave packages at the door, thanks!" or something, unless you're worried about it getting stolen from your door. If it's an apartment maybe there's like a mail room or attendant there that can hold packages? I don't know, ask around.


I would guess they would come to the door, but if one works how do you get the package? I mean I live in the suburbs so the UPS would come while im at work? everyday during the weekday...and they dont deliver on the weekend.

I was thinking that, although my friend lives in a fairly good neighborhood, you never know, you know:p .

I dont think id feel to good leaving 1700 dollars worth of electronics sitting outside alone, even for 5 minutes, then there's the question of it raining it. Plus im quite sure UPS requires a signature from someone at the household, if not they leave a note, then they come back to next day or so.

But yeah, my apartment building doesnt really have an attendant, small 2 story apartments so it doesnt have like a community building etc or whatnot (very american:p )

There might be a mailing room, not sure how it works as i just moved in a week ago. I did think about the mailing box in the hallway, its locked (can only be opened by me) theres no A4 sized cut out for mail to be dropped off in there? how does that work?

Thanks for your reply!

EDIIT: woo, just checked the UPS tracking number for the 3 separate orders. 1 of the orders which had the majority of the items in it is in Palatine IL :)  the other 2 orders are in IL, but palatine though, hopefully they will make it there by tomorrow :) 
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September 13, 2012 11:16:08 PM

Do you know any of your neighbors? Maybe you can ask someone you trust to get the packages for you? After all you know ALL the components you bought so it's not like you won't know if they take one.
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September 14, 2012 3:04:10 AM

nsouter853 said:
Do you know any of your neighbors? Maybe you can ask someone you trust to get the packages for you? After all you know ALL the components you bought so it's not like you won't know if they take one.


It's all good thanks! Fiends sister ended up signing for it.

I got up all early toget ready to drive out there (2 hours) and car wouldn't start. Boy was I pissed. Had to wait 6 hours to go drive it (borrowed car of a friend). Drive was extremely scary... Haven't driven in 3 years. And it was storming :( 

Anyhow I will post back in the proper section later :) 

Going to start tomorrow!

Any videos that anyone recommends?
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Best solution

September 14, 2012 4:22:17 AM
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September 18, 2012 4:08:40 AM

Best answer selected by ponymony.
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