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$1600 Gaming desktop (New build)

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September 7, 2012 10:38:59 PM

Hello everyone
I have done quite a bit of research and feel I am ready to build my computer (hopefully not make any mistakes)
I have been scanning these boards and looking at parts on newegg.com (and more recently discovered pcpartpicker.com)
Also, do those anti-static wristbands actually work? and does a painted case prevent static discharge or do I have to use a doorknob?
is it also possible to play DLC's offline?
The one thing I can't seem to find is if online play (such as multiplayer) costs for connection to steam (or others)?
That's one reason I hate xbox, they charge you for EVERYTHING!
Doesn't even come with a decent hard drive, this is why ps3 was $600, it had everything in it...

Anyway, onto the real topic
Sorry about the length by the way, I like details
I originally wrote this on August first in notepad and have edited most of it over the month
(My original build was $2200!)

System usage: Gaming (on/offline), Web-browsing, watching movies, transferring data through USB (frequently), burnning (I am not sure if that is only affected by CD-drive)

Gaming: Mostly FPS and RPG, but I like explosions

Requirements:
-WiFi 802.11g/n
-BD-R/RE burner, Must play Blu-Ray (and DVDs/Games for that matter)
-No fansy water cooling, thank you. In fact, I want it to be "plain," or a solid color, most likely black, definitely not solid red
-Silence is golden, so quiet FANS!
-Do not care about led fans, but I probably won't be purchasing any, I want quiet fans over flashly ones. I don't care if there is any in the case.
-2 USB 3.0 (Though this will probably be the hardest requirement to meet)

Budget:
-I would prefer under $1600, though I am not afraid to go over it, as long as I don't have to replace anything for a few years
-Do not exceed $1800
-I have a TV, Sharp LC-32SB21u TV (32 in, 720p, 1388 x 768) *Tested HDMI with my laptop*
-I am not going to include the HDD in the price (But I am not planning on buying one immediately)
-Started SSD for OS and games, I still have a laptop for additional storage
-I am religious about keeping most of my files backed-up or off the computer in multiple locations, hence fast USB and Disc writers (or bluray?)

Preferrence on parts:
-Intel and Nvidia
-Any place that has very little shipping (or none!), and no taxes helps too, I don't want to pay $12 shipping for each part I order
-I will trust that most of what is suggested here is trustworthy enough to work properly


Location:
-United States, Minnesota, Minneapolis (North-west)
-There is a Mirco-Center within ~8 miles (Straight down a highway next to my house, 12min drive)
Doubt they have better prices than newegg though

Date:
-As of now I am waiting on a check by Thrusday (9/14) to complete the savings for this computer (Any extra cost I will take out of one of my accounts)
-Wanted to save the rest of my accounts for classes (and books)
-I am not planning anything until late September/Early October (but I may buy a Nvidia to get a free copy of borderlands II)
-May wait longer for Crysis 3 specs (looks awesome)

GPU:
-1 nVidia Geforce GTX 670
-no SLI/crossfirex, I will PROBABLY never use it
-For referrence, I want to be able to run ES5:Skyrim on high/ultra (No 1080p TV yet) with nice FPS (60+)

CPU, RAM & Motherboard:
-Intel i5 3570/3570k (what does the k add to it?)
-No movie editing so I guess i7 isn't necessary, now that's $70 in my pocket!
-No overclocking, I have no reason to if I am never going to be able to tell the difference
-Sata III ports
-8GB+ RAM
-HDMI

PSU:
-Definitely want an efficent one
-Not sure what watt I need
-Silent
-No need for SLI support, if I decide to get it, I will upgrade later, but I can't see myself spending $800 for 2 cards when 1 is fine

Drives:
-SSD (Sata III of course) system drive, I want the OS to load fast, and prefer my games on this one
-HDD will be later, if at all (I really don't use much space, I haven't managed to even use 50% of my laptop's 320GB, but it doesn't have games on it either)
-Windows 7 64-bit (Professional has XP mode!)


Also should I just go with say a 64GB SSD for OS and another one for storage?
How much space would the OS need, or would I want to store as much files on my System drive as I can?

I will be upgrading the TV to a 1080p later on (Basically when my TV fails), but for now 720p is amazing.
I have been using RCA composite for my games in the past, since before skyrim came out (11/11/11), and 320p is unacceptable now :) 
I am not looking to play Skyrim in 1080p by the way. I only WANT my gpu to be able to support ultra mode, so I can keep my GPU for a number of years before it's no longer good for current games.

Please make me some recommendations, especially the power supply, SSD and CPU heatsink.
I haven't selected any aftermarket heatsinks because I don't believe I need any (If stock isn't good for non-OC'ed CPUs then why does it come with the CPU?)


PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V DELUXE ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($267.17 @ Amazon)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($44.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: OCZ Vertex 4 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 670 2GB Video Card ($399.36 @ NCIX US)**
Case: Cooler Master Storm Trooper ATX Full Tower Case ($138.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 650W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($119.00 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Lite-On IHBS112-04 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 (64-bit) ($130.20 @ Amazon)
Keyboard: Logitech G110 Wired Standard Keyboard ($54.98 @ Amazon)
Mouse: Logitech G500 Wired Laser Mouse ($49.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $1604.65
(Prices include shipping and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2012-09-07 18:00 EDT-0400)

** Newegg GTX 670 cost $399.99 and comes with a free (Currently $60) game, so I will be spending a little more

I will probably be buying anything from Newegg if it has free stuff with it as the motherboard now has 2x 4GB memory sticks included for free as well (for $12 more)
G.SKILL Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-1600C9D-8GAB
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.1046075

Please let me know if anything is incompatible (Like RAM, I can't tell how to find what CPU it needs as some list only dual processors)
Thank you for reading and I appreciate any recommendations/information
Also, I like the case, so please try to avoid removing it :( 
September 7, 2012 11:03:38 PM

You just need internet to DL DLC's. Not to play them. Steam just charges you for the price of the game. Multiplayer is 100% free. Anti-static wristraps are $5. Worth it.

First of all, that mobo is not for your needs. The ASRock Extreme4 Z77 suits your need and is $100 cheaper. Get the Crucial M4/Samsung 830 SSD instead. Get Windows 7 Home Premium. Pro isn't worth the extra cost. Everything else is A-OK.
September 7, 2012 11:06:50 PM

Also, Microcenter is def. a lot cheaper than Newegg. You pay tax, but I saved like $90 by buying my CPU and motherboard from there. Cases and RAM are pretty cheap. The i5 is $190 there and you get $50 off any mobo. I highly recommend that you at least get your CPU and mobo from there. You can also price-match anything from Newegg.
Related resources
September 7, 2012 11:10:09 PM

You have to keep in mind that most of today's games eat hard drive space for breakfast. Games can take anywhere from 6GB to 25GB - a 128GB SSD will fill up very quickly.
September 7, 2012 11:53:53 PM

wow, those are some fast replies
obsama1 said:
Also, Microcenter is def. a lot cheaper than Newegg. You pay tax, but I saved like $90 by buying my CPU and motherboard from there. Cases and RAM are pretty cheap. The i5 is $190 there and you get $50 off any mobo. I highly recommend that you at least get your CPU and mobo from there. You can also price-match anything from Newegg.

So I see, however what is the difference between the i5-3570k and the i5-3570?
is it just the built in graphics? I shouldn't need to worry about it if I have a GTX then


g-unit1111 said:
You have to keep in mind that most of today's games eat hard drive space for breakfast. Games can take anywhere from 6GB to 25GB - a 128GB SSD will fill up very quickly.

Ok so having multiple hard drives is a must, noted
what size system drive should I have? Should I get a 2nd SSD for the games I play most often and HDD for the rest?

Is my power supply sufficient?
September 7, 2012 11:56:44 PM

No not just the graphics. The 3570K can be overclocked. You are still going to save some money there by getting the i5 3570K for $190.

I say 128GB SSD is enough if you are conservative and you put your absolute most played games on there. Stuff you don't use a lot+music/movies/data goes on the HDD.
September 8, 2012 4:20:05 AM

reboot1 said:
wow, those are some fast replies

So I see, however what is the difference between the i5-3570k and the i5-3570?
is it just the built in graphics? I shouldn't need to worry about it if I have a GTX then



Ok so having multiple hard drives is a must, noted
what size system drive should I have? Should I get a 2nd SSD for the games I play most often and HDD for the rest?

Is my power supply sufficient?

You have a $1,600 budget so forget the 128GB SSD. Go big or go home. Also unless you already have the software for that blu ray reader expect to pay good sum for that also. You don't want an OEM version for blu ray unless you have that software already or a means to get it for cheap. With the psu efficiency it's a fine line between gold, silver and bronze. If you run your PC 24 - 7 you might save enough in electricity to buy yourself a can of coke at the end of the year. Also seeing how you plan on watching movies through your PC then I would get an after market cpu h/s for the fact the stock intel can get loud. With that said take a look at these changes.


http://www.amazon.com/Antec-Current-HCG-620M-BRONZE-Mod... $79.99 & this item ships for FREE with Super Saver Shipping
Antec High Current Gamer HCG-620M, 80 PLUS BRONZE, 620 Watt Modular Power Supply

http://www.microcenter.com/product/387627/Z77_Pro3_1155... $94.99 (knock off another $40 - $50 when bundled with the 3570K)
ASRock Z77 Pro3 1155 ATX Intel Motherboard

http://www.microcenter.com/product/388577/Core_i5_3570K... $189.99
Intel Core i5 3570K 3.4GHz LGA 1155 Processor

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005O65JXI/ref=ox_sc_a... $33.49 & this item ships for FREE with Super Saver Shipping
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan (RR-212E-20PK-R2)

http://www.microcenter.com/product/382101/Ballistix_Spo...(PC3-12800)_CL9_Dual_Channel_Desktop_Memory_Kit_(Two_4GB_Memory_Modules) $39.99
Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB DDR3-1600 PC3-12800) CL9 Dual Channel Desktop Memory Kit Two 4GB Memory Modules)

http://www.microcenter.com/product/364543/12x_Internal_... $109.99 | $89.99 After Rebate Savings
ASUS 12x Internal Blu-ray Burner BW-12B1ST/BLK/G

http://www.microcenter.com/product/382700/Extreme_SDSSD... $169.99
SanDisk Extreme SDSSDX-240G-G25 240GB SATA 6.0Gb/s 2.5" Internal Solid State Drive

http://www.amazon.com/MSI-DisplayPort-PCI-Express-N670-... $409.99 & this item ships for FREE with Super Saver Shipping | Price after rebate: $399.99
MSI NVIDIA GeForce GTX 670 OC 2GB GDDR5 2DVI/HDMI/DisplayPort PCI-Express Video Card N670 PE 2GD5/OC

http://www.amazon.com/Windows-Professional-64bit-System... $129.63 & this item ships for FREE with Super Saver Shipping
Windows 7 Professional SP1 64bit (Full) System Builder DVD 1 Pack

Total: $1,258.05 *not including rebates & cpu + mobo bundle discount


http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/MSI/GTX_670_Power_Ed... <---- review of that MSI GTX 670 w/benchmarks

http://www.asrock.com/mb/Intel/Z77%20Pro3/ <----- another look at that board along with a link to the latest bios update


If your gaming on wireless then it doesn't get any better than dual band and 5Ghz.

http://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Wireless-Gigabit-Router-T... $81.00
TP-Link N750 Wireless Dual Band Gigabit Router (TL-WDR4300)

http://www.tp-link.com/dk/products/details/?categoryid=... <----- another look at that router

http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1983/1/ <---- review of that router


http://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-PCI-Express-Adapter-TL-WD... $41.95
TP-Link 450Mbps Wireless N Dual Band PCI Express Adapter (TL-WDN4800)

http://www.tp-link.com/en/products/details/?model=TL-WD... <----- another look at that dual band wireless adapter


Case worth looking at. It has a built in multi channel fan controller, LED on/off switch, dust filters, SSD cage, and a large 200mm side fan (larger the fan means lower the RPM which all equals "quiet".

http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-Tower-Gaming-CC-9... $100.63
Corsair Carbide Series 500R Mid Tower Gaming Case CC-9011012-WW

http://www.corsair.com/carbide-series-500r-mid-tower-ca... <----- another look at that case
September 8, 2012 5:13:21 AM

You are wasting your money.

720p looks great until you see 1080p. It's stupid to have that desktop build on a horrible screen. It's just sad. Yes, I know you will upgrade later, but maybe that later is now. Nobody with a 670 plays on 720p. A 670 is designed for 1220p and higher.

You don't want to overclock? Yet you want to buy a 3570k?

You could buy a great rig for $1200, and save money for when you do upgrade that crappy tv.

BTW, I'm a Gopher alumni.
September 8, 2012 6:06:31 AM

Why_Me said:
You have a $1,600 budget so forget the 128GB SSD. Go big or go home. Also unless you already have the software for that blu ray reader expect to pay good sum for that also. You don't want an OEM version for blu ray unless you have that software already or a means to get it for cheap. With the psu efficiency it's a fine line between gold, silver and bronze. If you run your PC 24 - 7 you might save enough in electricity to buy yourself a can of coke at the end of the year. Also seeing how you plan on watching movies through your PC then I would get an after market cpu h/s for the fact the stock intel can get loud. With that said take a look at these changes.


OK am I really the only one who thinks that anything above a 128GB SSD just isn't worth the cost per GB right now? I use my SSD only for a boot drive and then I store my Steam file and all my music and movies on second and third HDs. It's entirely possible if you do it right.
September 8, 2012 6:23:24 AM

g-unit1111 said:
OK am I really the only one who thinks that anything above a 128GB SSD just isn't worth the cost per GB right now? I use my SSD only for a boot drive and then I store my Steam file and all my music and movies on second and third HDs. It's entirely possible if you do it right.

With the OP's budget and this being a gaming build it makes perfect sense. $170 for 240GB = $85 if you were to cut it in half (120GB). This way there is no choosing certain games to put on it and no switching one game to a storage drive when it gets old and you get burnt out on it. Everything fits on 240GB. I can remember when peeps were spending close to $200 on a single 150GB WD Velocity Raptor back in the day and running two of them in RAID 0 and those Raptors weren't even a 1/3 the speed as these new SSD's like that Sandisk.

$170 for 240GB SSD or $100 for a 128GB SSD + $70 for a 500GB WD Blue h/d. I'l take the 240GB SSD and load up levels in no time flat and if I ever need some storage space then pick up a storage drive. That way there's no reloading Windows a second time. It's already on the SSD.
September 8, 2012 6:52:40 AM

Why_Me said:
With the OP's budget and this being a gaming build it makes perfect sense. $170 for 240GB = $85 if you were to cut it in half (120GB). This way there is no choosing certain games to put on it and no switching one game to a storage drive when it gets old and you get burnt out on it. Everything fits on 240GB. I can remember when peeps were spending close to $200 on a single 150GB WD Velocity Raptor back in the day and running two of them in RAID 0 and those Raptors weren't even a 1/3 the speed as these new SSD's like that Sandisk.

$170 for 240GB SSD or $100 for a 128GB SSD + $70 for a 500GB WD Blue h/d. I'l take the 240GB SSD and load up levels in no time flat and if I ever need some storage space then pick up a storage drive. That way there's no reloading Windows a second time. It's already on the SSD.


I chose $100 120GB SSD + $60 for a 500GB WD Blue h/d.
There is no good 240GB SSD under $200. OCZ...no way. Failure rate is too high.

So, really it's: spend $160 or $210.

I love my choice. I only play 2 games. I think 240GB is great for people that play more than 5 games. Otherwise, I see no sense in buying a 240GB. For photo editing, I move my folder onto the SSD then edit. Afterwards, put the folder back on the HDD.
September 8, 2012 7:00:34 AM

The one he linked is a good 240GB SSD for under $200.. So is the Mushkin Chronos Deluxe 240GB.
September 8, 2012 7:24:58 AM

envy14tpe said:
I chose $100 120GB SSD + $60 for a 500GB WD Blue h/d.
There is no good 240GB SSD under $200. OCZ...no way. Failure rate is too high.

So, really it's: spend $160 or $210.

I love my choice. I only play 2 games. I think 240GB is great for people that play more than 5 games. Otherwise, I see no sense in buying a 240GB. For photo editing, I move my folder onto the SSD then edit. Afterwards, put the folder back on the HDD.

I posted a Sandisk 240GB for $170. It utilizes SF Toggle NAND controller and is as solid as any SSD out on the market atm.
September 9, 2012 11:49:41 PM

Why_Me said:
You have a $1,600 budget so forget the 128GB SSD. Go big or go home. Also unless you already have the software for that blu ray reader expect to pay good sum for that also. You don't want an OEM version for blu ray unless you have that software already or a means to get it for cheap. With the psu efficiency it's a fine line between gold, silver and bronze. If you run your PC 24 - 7 you might save enough in electricity to buy yourself a can of coke at the end of the year. Also seeing how you plan on watching movies through your PC then I would get an after market cpu h/s for the fact the stock intel can get loud. With that said take a look at these changes.
....

I see, I wasn't aware I needed the software, should have looked into that, thank you.
I am going to take some of your advice and go with the CPU h/s
Not sure about that case though, but then I still haven't officially decided on one yet, I do have about 5 choices (so many)

I will definitely get that SSD since Microcenter has it for so cheap ($170+tax)
Same with the RAM, but it's actually cheaper at Newegg

However I found a much cheaper version of that BD-R/RE drive that is NOT OEM and is about $45 less ($65+ because of MIR and tax on the other one)
only difference I see is that it only has half data transfer speeds on BD-R DL and DVD-R DL
Since I have yet to use DLs and I rarely need to use recordable discs, I can live with that
I also decided on a ASRock Extreme4, not fond of only 2 SATA3 and no displayport, but it's livable at only $85+tax. Now that I learned most HDD don't need anything above 105-157MB/s (mostly SATA1)

What is the real difference between the two GTXs? One is $10, is that really worth slightly higher clockrate?
How about this PSU?


envy14tpe said:
You are wasting your money.

720p looks great until you see 1080p. It's stupid to have that desktop build on a horrible screen. It's just sad. Yes, I know you will upgrade later, but maybe that later is now. Nobody with a 670 plays on 720p. A 670 is designed for 1220p and higher.

You don't want to overclock? Yet you want to buy a 3570k?

You could buy a great rig for $1200, and save money for when you do upgrade that crappy tv.

BTW, I'm a Gopher alumni.

No need to get so upset, the reason I am getting a 670 is to avoid upgrade a year from now, that is just more of a waste of money.
Feel free to make another suggestion otherwise, the TV is not going to be upgraded this year if it doesn't break.
And no, I don't want to buy a 3570k, I wanted 3570/3570k. I just wasn't sure what the difference was and wanted to ask BEFORE deciding.
As microcenter doesn't appear to sell a 3570 (at my store), and the 3570k for cheaper than retail 3570 (even after tax), I am going to purchase the 3570k with the MOBO for $50 off
As for the TV I am going to ride it out for prices on the other TVs to go down, I might be able to get a nice one with 3D.

g-unit1111 said:
OK am I really the only one who thinks that anything above a 128GB SSD just isn't worth the cost per GB right now? I use my SSD only for a boot drive and then I store my Steam file and all my music and movies on second and third HDs. It's entirely possible if you do it right.

I couldn't find a decent cheap SSD drive over 128GB myself, but Microcenter disagrees with that, they are selling it for $170+tax=$187 but it sells elsewhere at $215+

envy14tpe said:
I chose $100 120GB SSD + $60 for a 500GB WD Blue h/d.
There is no good 240GB SSD under $200. OCZ...no way. Failure rate is too high.

So, really it's: spend $160 or $210.

I love my choice. I only play 2 games. I think 240GB is great for people that play more than 5 games. Otherwise, I see no sense in buying a 240GB. For photo editing, I move my folder onto the SSD then edit. Afterwards, put the folder back on the HDD.

I have saved a ton on my MOBO (Cheaper version and combo deal) and Optical drive thanks to Obsama1 and Why_Me, I can spend that on Storage drives
I will probably get HDD for $70 and the $170 SSD (~$260 after tax total), Didn't plan to get a HDD, but after looking at SATA2, there are awesome prices
OCZ? I found that the reviews on those SSD were actually favorable, didn't know they were problem drives. And I play plenty more than 5 games (I have a list of games saved on amazon for when I get my computer up and running)

Why_Me said:
With the OP's budget and this being a gaming build it makes perfect sense. $170 for 240GB = $85 if you were to cut it in half (120GB). This way there is no choosing certain games to put on it and no switching one game to a storage drive when it gets old and you get burnt out on it. Everything fits on 240GB. I can remember when peeps were spending close to $200 on a single 150GB WD Velocity Raptor back in the day and running two of them in RAID 0 and those Raptors weren't even a 1/3 the speed as these new SSD's like that Sandisk.

$170 for 240GB SSD or $100 for a 128GB SSD + $70 for a 500GB WD Blue h/d. I'l take the 240GB SSD and load up levels in no time flat and if I ever need some storage space then pick up a storage drive. That way there's no reloading Windows a second time. It's already on the SSD.

I agree with you, I got a good spare $200 from downgrading and deals and my build is still at only $1530, I might make it a 1500 build now
240GB for $0.76 (including tax) vs 128GB for $0.79 isn't that much of a difference but I will still stick with the bigger storage at that price, although for $70 I can get a secondary Seagate Barracuda 1.5TB drive


Thank you all for your suggestions

Also what is the deal with DRM? I see a lot of negative feed back on games with this
I personally do not care if steam monitors what games I have on my computer. As long as I don't have to be connected to the internet to play Single-player games... that is ridiculous! my internet can be too unstable at times and disconnects (Today especially, it's gone off and on as I was writing this, weekendsa are the worst)!
Sucks for multi-player games, but it shouldn't affect my single-player mode at all

Lastly, if there isn't "any" difference between the PSU gold and bronze, then is there a difference between Nvidia and radeon?
I am not 100% on the GPU I should get just yet, but the Bordlands 2 free game is a lot better bonus if they are really tied. I've heard mixed reviews, some saying the 7970 is tied with 680 and some saying 670 is better than 7970
September 10, 2012 5:22:48 AM

reboot1 said:
I see, I wasn't aware I needed the software, should have looked into that, thank you.
I am going to take some of your advice and go with the CPU h/s
Not sure about that case though, but then I still haven't officially decided on one yet, I do have about 5 choices (so many)

I will definitely get that SSD since Microcenter has it for so cheap ($170+tax)
Same with the RAM, but it's actually cheaper at Newegg

However I found a much cheaper version of that BD-R/RE drive that is NOT OEM and is about $45 less ($65+ because of MIR and tax on the other one)
only difference I see is that it only has half data transfer speeds on BD-R DL and DVD-R DL
Since I have yet to use DLs and I rarely need to use recordable discs, I can live with that
I also decided on a ASRock Extreme4, not fond of only 2 SATA3 and no displayport, but it's livable at only $85+tax. Now that I learned most HDD don't need anything above 105-157MB/s (mostly SATA1)

What is the real difference between the two GTXs? One is $10, is that really worth slightly higher clockrate?
How about this PSU?



No need to get so upset, the reason I am getting a 670 is to avoid upgrade a year from now, that is just more of a waste of money.
Feel free to make another suggestion otherwise, the TV is not going to be upgraded this year if it doesn't break.
And no, I don't want to buy a 3570k, I wanted 3570/3570k. I just wasn't sure what the difference was and wanted to ask BEFORE deciding.
As microcenter doesn't appear to sell a 3570 (at my store), and the 3570k for cheaper than retail 3570 (even after tax), I am going to purchase the 3570k with the MOBO for $50 off
As for the TV I am going to ride it out for prices on the other TVs to go down, I might be able to get a nice one with 3D.


I couldn't find a decent cheap SSD drive over 128GB myself, but Microcenter disagrees with that, they are selling it for $170+tax=$187 but it sells elsewhere at $215+


I have saved a ton on my MOBO (Cheaper version and combo deal) and Optical drive thanks to Obsama1 and Why_Me, I can spend that on Storage drives
I will probably get HDD for $70 and the $170 SSD (~$260 after tax total), Didn't plan to get a HDD, but after looking at SATA2, there are awesome prices
OCZ? I found that the reviews on those SSD were actually favorable, didn't know they were problem drives. And I play plenty more than 5 games (I have a list of games saved on amazon for when I get my computer up and running)


I agree with you, I got a good spare $200 from downgrading and deals and my build is still at only $1530, I might make it a 1500 build now
240GB for $0.76 (including tax) vs 128GB for $0.79 isn't that much of a difference but I will still stick with the bigger storage at that price, although for $70 I can get a secondary Seagate Barracuda 1.5TB drive


Thank you all for your suggestions

Also what is the deal with DRM? I see a lot of negative feed back on games with this
I personally do not care if steam monitors what games I have on my computer. As long as I don't have to be connected to the internet to play Single-player games... that is ridiculous! my internet can be too unstable at times and disconnects (Today especially, it's gone off and on as I was writing this, weekendsa are the worst)!
Sucks for multi-player games, but it shouldn't affect my single-player mode at all

Lastly, if there isn't "any" difference between the PSU gold and bronze, then is there a difference between Nvidia and radeon?
I am not 100% on the GPU I should get just yet, but the Bordlands 2 free game is a lot better bonus if they are really tied. I've heard mixed reviews, some saying the 7970 is tied with 680 and some saying 670 is better than 7970

That Seasonic 620 you linked to Amazon is a nice one and I mean really nice. It's semi modular and should last you years to come. Great find. :)  As far as what video card to get...the answers to that question could go for two pages on here seeing how everyone has a different take on it. I'm a bit biased towards Nvidia cards myself but that's just me. That MSI 670 I linked you to amazon has custom cooling which means it runs cool and it comes factory over clocked so nothing to mess with there.

http://www.defectivebydesign.org/what_is_drm_digital_re... <---- this is a brief rundown on what DRM is although wiki has some good info on it also. That router and wife card I linked you to is worth reading up on if your on wireless. 5Mhz is like night and day compared to 2.4Mhz wireless. Dual band ftw. Just make sure you password it so nobody is stealing your bandwidth.
September 13, 2012 2:26:12 AM

Are the prices going to decrease in November?
I am seeing a lot of posts about waiting before buying anything...
Although I don't know if I want to wait much as the GPU I selected originally is now 10% and still offers the Borderlands 2 free (although the game seems less and less appealing the more I see for advertisements)
I am not sure about the Microcenter deals though ($50 off of a MOBO + CPU combo)
Can anyone give me some insight on this?

Also I have edited my build:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU, MOBO & Storage at end (as they are custom parts from microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($27.99 @ NCIX US)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($40.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 670 2GB Video Card ($364.50 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 500R Black ATX Mid Tower Case ($101.60 @ Mac Connection)
Power Supply: SeaSonic 620W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($83.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Optical Drive: Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($71.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 (64-bit) ($126.47 @ Amazon)
Keyboard: Logitech G110 Wired Standard Keyboard ($53.99 @ Newegg)
Mouse: Logitech G500 Wired Laser Mouse ($47.99 @ NCIX US)
Other: (CPU) Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz (Turbo 3.8GHz) LGA 1155 Quad-Core Processor ($203.82 @ Microcenter)
Other: (SSD) SanDisk Extreme SDSSDX-240G-G25 240GB SATA 6.0Gb/s 2.5" Internal Solid State Drive ($182.35 @ Microcenter)
Other: (Motherboard) ASRock Z77 Extreme4 LGA 1155 ATX Intel Motherboard ($91.19 @ Microcenter)
Total: $1396.87 (with estimated tax & MIR)
(Prices include shipping and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2012-09-12 22:19 EDT-0400)

I removed the HDD entirely as I found that the reviews were 50/50 negative/positive, I selected a new one for $5 more and found the same problem. The next 5 I picked all had 50/50 reviews, that's a high failure rate among HDDs! wtf.
I might just get one from microcenter later on, but I have a 240GB SSD picked out that will last at least.
Has anyone found a nice HDD for 320-500GB (7200rpm) in the $50-75 range? (I don't need anything above a 500GB, but If I can find a 1TB for the price of a 500GB, I'll jump on that)
!