Geforce 8800gt power supply help

Hey Guys, I have a PNY Geforve 8800gt. Requires 400watts. I got an Antec 500 watt power supply to go with it. Do i need to you the power supply on my whole computer? (motherboard, gpu, cpu etc...) Or just the graphics card and then use the Built in supply for everything else? IF so Where can i find a video or soimethnig and a guidline on hooking up the new unit?
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  1. actually when a vc was rated to run on 400w does not mean it consumes 400w, it means you must have a minimum 400w for the whole system, coz the 8800gt when stressed gets only 108watts max, the remaning is for the other components of the proc,hdd, fans,ect.
  2. Ok cool. So the unit is for the comp. as a whole then. Also im in attempting to learn to do as much of my own computer work as possible so i dont know much yet but is there somewhere i could look to insure i plug everything up correctly?
  3. *You sounded interested so I threw down a bunch of tips. You might want to PRINT THIS.

    It's not difficult:
    a) CASE/Motherboard:
    the front power button, HDD light etc are plugged in from the case to the motherboard. You reference this in the motherboard manual (-, NEG or BLACK is usually negative, and +, POS or a coloured wire is usually the positive wire)

    b) Graphics card:
    This simply slides into the motherboard and is screwed into the case. If you require more power look at the graphics card and it will have some combo of six or eight-pin inputs for the Power Supply.

    c) CPU/Motherboard:
    There may be an 8-pin or other input next to the CPU that is required from your Power Supply.

    d) CPU fan:
    Your motherboard should have a "CPU_FAN" input for your CPU fan. I recommend most people get a non-stock HSF (Heatsink + Fan), some very good ones are only $30. It will reduce noise even in IDLE mode.

    *Your BIOS on the motherboard ("DEL" to enter on boot) should have CPU fan control options, such as AUTO, VOLTAGE and PWM. You need to find the one that allows your CPU fan speed to vary. My stock fan used "AUTO" but that set the fan I bought to 100% speed. I chose "VOLTAGE" and it dropped nicely. I also had SOFTWARE from the motherboard site to allow me to manually configure the fan speed versus temp.

    FYI, not all PSU's of the same Wattage are identical. A PSU might have 500Watts in TOTAL but that is an amount that is added up from the individual outputs (+5V, +12V etc). It's usually not a big deal unless the GRAPHICS CARD requires more power than can be delivered.

    For example, some 500Watt PSU's might work with a GTX680 whereas others won't. The reason for this is some have enough power being delivered through the +12Volt rail to support this graphics card whereas others might not. It can get tricky at times.

    Another thing to note is most PSU's maintain roughly the same noise level until about 50% total load then the fan noise level ramps up sharply. For the noise and power estimation reasons, I usually use an online calculator or estimate the TOTAL power actually used (not the calculators estimate PSU to get) and get a PSU that is DOUBLE that.

    For example, if my overclocked CPU, and my GTX680 8GB of RAM... etc all adds up to 400Watts maximum I'd get a 750W or 850W PSU.

    Other generic tips:
    - make a periodic image backup with a tool like Acronis True Image (free version for Seagate and WD drives from their respective sites). Backup to a physically different drive, not a different partition on the same drive.

    - always update the BIOS if a new one exists (motherboard site)

    - 32-bit is dead for Windows. Get Windows 7 Premium 64-bit OEM (or Windows 8 64-bit if you can stand the new interface. Not sure on the new price and OEM activation method for Windows 8 yet)

    - Drivers from motherboard site (main chipset driver, ethernet driver, sound driver if you use onboard sound etc.)
    *Your best reference source is your motherboard manual for many things.

    - run MEMTEST ( ) at least once BEFORE installing Windows and any time you change the RAM or CPU frequency

    - if you OVERCLOCK the CPU make sure you didn't also overclock the RAM. If you did, then drop the RAM MULTIPLIER so it's back in line (CPU and RAM often share a common clock called the BASE CLOCK. If you overclock it for the CPU you also do it for the RAM. It might seem confusing now, but once you are looking at the BIOS and MEMTEST it will make sense.)
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