New build cpu overheating please help?

new build cpu overheating please help?

Hi everyone.

Let me start off by saying that I'm fairly new to building a system,

so my knowledge is a little limited. i didn't build it myself

though, i got the company to put it together. but i don't think they

did a good job with cpu seems to be overheating. i couldn't

keep it on more than 30 seconds because it would shut down on its


i took of the cpu cooler and applied new thermal paste to it

and now it seems to be able to stay on at least but with very high

temps. the software in the mother bord tells me that there is a cpu

temp error. it indicates that its at 81°c the lowest it ever

indicated was 70°c.

with the new thermal paste i managed at least to

instal windows 7 operating system but was very slow and this seems

strange to me since i have a i7-3930k cpu with 32 gb ram.

i think it is the high temperature that is making it so slow.

i dont want to try anything yet without more information because i'm afraid that it

will damage my cpu if i keep trying it out with such high temps.

what could be the problem?

i have in mind a few reasons:

1: the cpu cooler doesn't work well

2: the cpu is defective

3: there are some wires that might be plugged in wrongly or not even

plugged in.since i didn't build it i dont know if what they did is

correct.the wiring is a mess!

4: the voltage could be set too high. but i have no idea how to

change that.

does anyone know what could be the reason?

my build is:

-asus sabertooth x79 LGA 2011socket

-intel cpu i7-3930K

-cpu cooler crosair h100 (i think this is mainly the problem. the

button on it wont even change the speed of the fans)

-crosair vengeance ram 4x8GB (tot 32GB) DDR3 1600 c9

-gigabyt gtx 670 GPU

-sasonic X seris 850w 80 plus gold PSU

- crucial ssd 256

- with a second 1TB hard disc

i would be using this system for mostly 3d programs and compositing

like: 3ds max, maya, nuke, after effects, premier, photoshope and

oviusly gaming :P

ps. i haven't even started using any programs yet and it's already

having temp issues..

help would be most appreciated :)
27 answers Last reply
More about build overheating help
  1. If its getting to 80c in the BIOS, something is definitely wrong.
    Do you know if the CPU is overclocked at all? What is the case and is the cable management horrible to the point of obstructing any intake airflow? When you re-pasted the CPU, was there a plastic film on the heatsink?
  2. oh.i forgot to mention the case. i have a cooler master haf x. the wires dont seem to be geting in the way of anything its just that its hard to see where it all leads.i don't know about the overclocking. when i reapplied thermal paste i completely remove the old paste but i dont think there was any plastic in between.

    sorry but im new at this stuff so i'm not familiar with all the therms :/
  3. the only thing hot to touch in my build is the cpu. rest seemas cool enough.
  4. the in take doesn't seem to be the problem because in the case it's pretty cold when i put my hand in it. dont understand what the problem could be. i have 3 fans sucking air in and two big ones sucking air out.

    just seeams somthing wrong with the cpu or cpu cooler
  5. It seems a bad mount to me try applying arctic silver 5 with after market cooler like hyper 212 evo it would do wonders
  6. The HAF-X is a good case (have one personally), I doubt its an airflow issue unless the cable management is causing it.

    Are there wires and cables running behind the motherboard tray, and only coming out of various holes to plug in.
    Like this.

    Or do the power cables and such run directly over the motherboard or clump near the front HDD bays?
    Bad cable-management can lead to insufficient airflow, which also leads to high temperatures.

    Assuming good airflow, another possibility is the H100's pump has broken, which apparently isn't that uncommon.
    If you have any other CPU cooler on hand, try installing that and seeing if there is a difference.

    Beyond that, an over-volted or faulty chip may be to blame. Check in the BIOS what its running at, it seems that normal stock voltages on the 3930k is somewhere between 1.2 and 1.3v. If its significantly higher than that, that may be your issue.
    If its faulty, nothing you can do but get it replaced.

    Honestly, if you bought this system pre-made from a company, that is some shoddy quality control they have. Making the customer install Windows themselves and green-lighting a system that idles at 80c, horrible workmanship.

    EDIT: Akshay raises a good point, you (and the shop) may have mounted the CPU water block incorrectly.
  7. gant said:
    the in take doesn't seem to be the problem because in the case it's pretty cold when i put my hand in it. dont understand what the problem could be. i have 3 fans sucking air in and two big ones sucking air out.

    just seeams somthing wrong with the cpu or cpu cooler

    Are you sure its configured like that?
    At stock configuration, the two 200mm fans at the front and side are intakes, while the back and top 120/140mm's are exhaust.
    That may be the issue, the radiator fans are blowing the heat back into the case instead of out the top.
  8. yourse has definitely way better wire management. my cables are mostly stacked in front of the hdd slots but dont go directly over the motherboard.

    i don't think the air flow is the issue though.when i put my hand in the case it feels like a fridge and i also inverted the back out take fan to suck in air directly over the motherboard. like i said, it is cold inside the case the only thing that's hot is the cpu.

    but the h100 pump could be a reasons. i dont hear the rattling sound people say it makes. but when i touch the water tube i do feel a bit of vibration so i cant tell if its bust or not.

    in the bios it gives me 2 voltages i don't know which is which. where it sais cpu it sais o.8v
    right under this it sais 3.4v i dont know wiche one to look at.

    your right about the bad workmanship. the corsair radiator wasn't even screwed on the top but has been tide on buy plastic latches.
    i cut them and screwed it on my self.the front fan of the haf x wasn't even plugged in. did that my self too. don't know how to get the red led to work tho. there is one wire from the motherboard that isent pluged inbut i don't know what its for and where it goes (it says AC'97 on it).

    personally i just feel like taking it all apart and rebuilding it my self.unfortunately i don't have another fan and unfortunately i'm in italy where they dont have many good computer stores.the one i went to to get the thermal past had no fan for my LGA 2011 socket because no 1 really uses strong computers here. that's also why the service was so bad because in italy its hard to find a good place for these things.i told the guy in the computer shop where i got the paste that i had a 6 core. he answered me with;"whats a 6 core?" facepalm.
  9. the top fans blow up i checked that too. maybe the cpu is just bust?
  10. the 2 top fans blow up, the back fan blows in because i changed that, the side fan blows in but i haven't closed the case yet so its all open, the front fan blows in.

    and the h100 fans blow up with the case top fans (so its like a push and pull i think)
  11. what seems strange to me is that it gets to 80 c just in bios.before putting the new thermal paint i even tried it with out the cpu cooler on and it stayed actually on for longer or about the same. to me it seems like the cooler doesn't work but i cant tell if its that because i don't know how hot a cpu can get without a cooler especiali just in bios.
    if i knew this then maybe i can tell if the cpu is actually faulty
  12. The rattling that may come from the H100 is the pump working under 12.3v, while its only designed for 12v. So it seems your PSU is decent quality (with it being a Seasonic, it should be).

    This is the BIOS page for the Sabertooth board you are running, specifically the one about the CPU (God the Sabertooth EUFI BIOS is ugly).
    So under CPU voltage it was saying .8v? That is apparently within normal ranges according to Intel, but my gut says it should be higher. Well, if its stable its not a problem and raising the voltage wont fix your heat problem.
    Unless its downclocking itself to avoid burning out, but its nowhere near its TjMax (the temperature where the processor will degrade its own performance to reduce heat).

    Do you remember the fan speed as well? If the radiator fans are plugged directly to the PSU using low-noise adapters, they could be spinning slowly and therefore running hotter. So plug the into the mobo CPU fan headers if they aren't.

    To tell you the truth, I'm starting to come up blank.
    You have the side panel off, so airflow isn't the issue. The H100 appears to be working, and the CPU also appears to be operating correctly. Most I can advise you to do is re-apply the thermal paste and make properly sure you have mounted the heatsink correctly. Other than that, something must be faulty.

    EDIT: Please dont tell me you ran the system without a CPU cooler installed. Thats a quick way to kill your chip.
  13. EDIT: Please dont tell me you ran the system without a CPU cooler installed. Thats a quick way to kill your chip.

    just once but noting changed form when it had the cooler attached was a way to check if the h100 was working or not.

    im going to go out to find a store where they sell pc parts and try to get what akshaya said.

    do i have to take of the back plate for that? i think i need to take off the motherboard which is going to be annoying.

    btw,thank you guys for trying helping me out i very appreciate this :)
  14. o and the fan speed. on the bios it showed it was very low. but like i said before when i click the center button on the h100 it doesn't change the speed of the fan even tho its plugged in the h100 fan socket. cpu fan socket is taken buy the pump and all the other fans can't find any more space or maybe i just don't see them.
  15. To mount the cooler properly there needs to be a back-plate installed, should already be on if you were able to install it at all. You should just be able to unscrew the water block off the board and access the CPU directly.
    Make sure to clean the CPU and water-block before re-applying the paste. Get some isopropyl alcohol (or some other strong alcohol based cleaning fluid, I'v used White Spirits before) and toilet paper. Dampen the paper with the alcohol and use that to clean it all off. Keep doing that until you no longer get residue on the paper. Then do the same for the water-block.

    How low is low? Apparently the fans can go as low as 1350RPM, and as fast as 2500RPM.
  16. came back and obviously didn't find a shop with the pieces i needed. i didn't read the fan speed and don't feel like turning it on agian to stress my cpu even more.but the bios interface has a bar that wasn't even 5% full for the fan speed. while the cpu temp bar was 80% full and red when it was at 81°c

    about the back plate tho, do i have to take it of to reinstall a new cpu cooler?

    i think i'm going to get it checked by some one to see where the problem is. i would take a picture to show u guys but i dont have a camera :/

    im going to tell them what u guys have been telling me maybe that will help

    thanks again for the help
  17. If the old cooler used a back plate yes you will likely have to remove it. However, were you careful in applying the TMI to the CPU that you used as little paste as possible while still covering the chip? Too much can cause a large reduction in thermal transfer.
  18. the guy told me to put the whole tube of thermal paste in the center and it would spread on its own :/ dam see the people who work with computers here don't know much after all..

    but still. would that little change reduce its temperatures drastically? i mean, my cpu is at 80°c in bios and i'm not sure what it's temps should actually. would the properly applied thermal paste reduce the heat by how much? 20°c??
  19. Holy crap, how big a tube was it? If you have too thick a layer no heat is going to transfer. I would expect your ambient temps to drop to ~30c.

    You also need to make sure no thermal paste has spread onto the board or CPU contacts.
  20. Easiest way to test this is to try an alternate cooler. One of the reason I don't use the "faux water coolers" like the H100 is that there's no visual indicator when they are not addition, they are noisy, one leak and your system could be toast and finally, they just don't do significantly better than the better air coolers.

    As far as the paste goes, whether ya use the whole tube or not depends on what size tube you bought. Most vendors sell paste in "single application" tubes and multiple application sizes. Here's an example of a single application tube

    That brand took 1st place in benchmark reviews 80-way TIM test BTW.

    Frankly, I'd put this back on the builder's lap .... though by removing the cooler, you may have voided and build warranty at this point. I'd at least send them the H100 back and have them send you a Phanteks,14.html
  21. Well, the brand you showed as "single application" is a small amount, however the feedback from users indicate at least 2-3 applications. If you used that whole tube on your CPU you have used way to much.

    Nothing wrong with the H100, it is the best of the Corsair closed loop coolers, some people are just not a fan of liquid cooling in this form. I am still fairly sure it is related to the massive amount of TIM that is likely on your CPU and heatsink.
  22. well the guy gave me the tube for free and told me to try it if it helped.he then told me that i had to put the whole tube. the tube didn't seem so big and since he gave it to me for free it probably wasn't such a great quality thermal paste ether.

    but i was having the overheating problem before i replace the thermal paste and there was less i don't know if that's the reason. it is actually working better with new thermal paste.

    i think it's just the crosiar that isn't working well since like i mentioned before the center button wont even change the speed of the fan.

    i would try a different cpu cooler like the one mentioned by JackNaylorPE and see how that works. i already gave in my computer to be checked buy someone else and they said they where going to try different coolers to see if that helps. i would have done it my self but i don't have any other coolers and it would take too long to order another one. i need the pc for uni and they told me they will work on it monday when the technition came. just hope this guy knows more about pcs than the other two.
  23. by other two i meant the people that worked at the shop
  24. Right-o, it could be the cooler not working properly, is the plug for the fan into the MOBO a 3-pin or 4-pin? When putting on thermal paste most recommend placing a "grain of rice" sized blob in the middle, maybe as large as a small pea. Even if you like the spread method as opposed to letting the cooler spread it, that is the initial amount you should use.
  25. thanks. i'll consider it when i apply thermal paste agian. the pin i can't remember, it was strange. i think it had a 3 pin head but only one wire and the other 2 wires went to the power supply.

    here is a video on youtube that shows how it looks like

    if u go at 12:15min u will see it
  26. the guy in that video puts a lot of thermal paste too
  27. the shop already called me and they said that it was build like ***.he re did everything and he said i can pick it up tomorrow. he was saying that the back plate was mounted badly that the cooler wouldn't even make contact with the cpu.maybe thats why it worked better with more thermal paste because it was at least touching with the densair layer in between.

    just hope that tomorrow it will work.
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