Another "Display driver failed" topic

Fox Racer30

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Aug 18, 2012
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This is my third forum searching for help on this matter :p
Here are my specs:
Operating System: Windows 7 Ultimate.
CPU: AMD FX-8150 liquid cooled with Corsair H70, push-pull with CoolerMaster Sickleflo
RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws Z 4x4GB (16 GB)
Motherboard: Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3
GPU: ASUS HD7870 Crossfire, (currently running a single card as the other is in process of RMA for a faulty fan - have the issue with single and dual cards.)
Hard Drives: OCZ Agility 3 120GB SSD, 2x Seagate Barracuda 7200 1TB Mechanical HDD
Optical Drives: Sony Optiarc 18x DVD-ROM drive
Audio: On-board 7.1/AMD HD audio
PSU Antec CP-1000 (1000w)

the problem:
Frequently, and throughout multiple applications, the display drivers will "seize up" and windows will "recover" from the failure.
This system was built on June 19 (2012, home-build system, parts purchased from Amazon and Newegg), and I've been having these problems since day one, I.E. the only thing written to the C drive was Windows 7, and the data HD's (D,E) were not installed.
it happens most frequently in the Adobe CS6 set of applications (all of them - CS5 is more stable, but it does happen from time-to-time), in java-based games such as Minecraft and RuneScape (I allow my cousin to play said games when he is over), and "standard" games such as Skyrim, Black Ops/other CoD titles Company of Heroes, Diablo III, Starcraft II, ETC, ETC) I can only recall one instance of it occurring while idle on the desktop. It will also infrequently happen while browsing the web, with more-resource intensive sites (flash), such as YouTube, Hulu, Crackle, ETC, ETC.
System is not overclocked, nor has it ever been (the drivers are too unstable as it is to try and OC)

What I've tried:
-Multiple Catalyst builds, 12.1-12.8.

-Disabling Aero (figured it was a long shot, though it was worth trying for the 10 seconds it took)

-Tested with OCCT (10 minutes with each test set), no errors reported with anything

-Switched from HDMI to DVI (long shot, though someone suggested the HDMI port might be faulty resulting in a false failure, figured it's worth a try)

It may also be worth noting that I have also been having trouble waking the computer from a state of sleep with the keyboard/mouse. Often times, on keypress/mouse interaction the system will power up, fans will spin up, the mechanical HDD's can be heard ticking, and the mouse/keyboard very dimly light up (as though they have inadequate power), but windows won't actually "wake up", my monitor does not detect any input, when this happens it requires a hard shutdown. not sure if it is is a related incident, but I figure it's better to include than to not.
 
Solution
The thing you wanna do first is install just the OS on a small fast drive. This drive will be set to boot first.
I would prefer a 2-1/2" 10,000 rpm drive, 70 GB, like a velociraptor. (because I am speed obsessed and mental)
If you are using the 1TB drive for the OS, (or apps) forget it. 1TB drive is extremely slow.
OS and some applications can go on the small drive, no personal files. (leave 60% of the OS drive blank)
Personal files, such as docs, videos, music, pics, go on the 1 TB drive. These type of files are never mixed with the OS drive.
(set the default save location for downloads to the 1 TB drive)
Apps such as Adobe would much prefer their own separate drive. Again, don't store the personal files on the apps drive.
Again you...
The thing you wanna do first is install just the OS on a small fast drive. This drive will be set to boot first.
I would prefer a 2-1/2" 10,000 rpm drive, 70 GB, like a velociraptor. (because I am speed obsessed and mental)
If you are using the 1TB drive for the OS, (or apps) forget it. 1TB drive is extremely slow.
OS and some applications can go on the small drive, no personal files. (leave 60% of the OS drive blank)
Personal files, such as docs, videos, music, pics, go on the 1 TB drive. These type of files are never mixed with the OS drive.
(set the default save location for downloads to the 1 TB drive)
Apps such as Adobe would much prefer their own separate drive. Again, don't store the personal files on the apps drive.
Again you don't want your apps on a big slow drive either.

By separating the OS from files, and using the fast drive for apps and OS, you make the thing way more efficient. I mean way more.

Now, the video card may have a "cool and quiet" mode, or a power saver mode, shut that off.
The video cards must be located in the correct slots. If slot 1 is not used for 1 card, expect it to be wrong.
The power profile for win 7 will allow setting the computer for performance mode. Make sure it's set to performance, and not power saver mode.
You may or may not have settings in the bios for cool and quiet, turn that off.
System Standby, sleep, hibernate, should all be set to "off" in the win 7 power profiles.
Leave only "monitor standby" turned ON.
In the power profiles, set the HDD to always run, instead of turning off for standby.
Check the bios setup for the video card settings, make sure everything is max allocation.
Increase the size of the paging memory to "recommended" size, not the default size.

Now here are some other stuff for AMD video card problems:

Sign in as administrator (If you are not administrator you may be blocked)
Close all the applications that are being used...save and close your files...
Turn Off the antivirus and firewall, turn off the functions of windows defender.
If you have multiple security programs installed, they must be turned ALL off. Security will prevent your driver from installing...
Download the latest CCC driver package, and save it to an easy location. Make sure this is the correct driver for your card.
Delete all the current AMD video software and drivers, restart the system (the video will look screwy, don't worry)
Now load install all the newest CCC drivers and restart the system (the driver will not work (yet) as you said, but load it anyway)
left click start
left click computer
right click C drive
Left click Open
Right click Users
Left click properties
"Check" mark the box that says: Attributes: "Hidden" (there is now a check-mark in the "Hidden" box)
Click: "Apply"
Now the system will apply the hidden attributes...and this will take a while, or maybe a long while. Let this proceed, and don't interrupt it...
During this procedure, a message may inform you that you do not have administrator privilege to the file you are trying to change the attributes of. That's OK. Just click: "ignore all."
When this procedure is finished, click OK (the box will close after you click OK)
Now you will once again be looking at folders in C drive (don’t close the C drive window or you may regret it)
(once again) right click Users
(once again) left click properties
UN- check the box that says: Attributes "Hidden" (you will now take the check mark OUT, Hidden is no longer checked)
Click Apply
Now the computer will UN-apply the hidden attributes, and it may take a while, or a long while...but let it proceed, and finish, don't interrupt it.
During this procedure, a message may inform you that you are not the administrator of the file that you are trying to change the attributes of. That's OK, just click: "ignore all."
When this is completed click OK
Now close all windows and restart the computer
turn all the security back on.
At this point, the CCC should be functional. Open the CCC and test the functions...
 
Solution

Fox Racer30

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Aug 18, 2012
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Windows 7 is installed on the OCZ SSD, along with core applications (which include the CS6 set), it has ~33GB free.
Cool&Quiet was shut down via BIOS (done after reading)
The card(s) is(are) in the correct slots
System is set to High performance with HDD and Network card set to stay awake, all "sleep" functions are disabled
So far as I can tell, BIOS is tuned to performance. (though it is possible I overlooked something?)
Not entirely sure how to adjust paging memory, and a quick google search didn't yield any results that would correlate to your suggested settings

I will try your setup and report back with what I find (it may take a couple of days to fully test.)
 

suat

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Dec 17, 2009
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Increase idle-state core and memory clocks of your gfx card by 40 percent and your computer will be good enough to do all your everyday chores, including games.

Besides, measure +12V output of your PSU under load, using software, and advise.
 

Fox Racer30

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Aug 18, 2012
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12.1, 12.2, 12.3, 12.4,12.6, 12.8.
everything listed http://support.amd.com/us/gpudownload/windows/previous/Pages/radeonaiw_vista64.aspx there, with the addition of the most recent 12.8.

Unfortunately, I am on my computer for hours on end, most every day (I do a wide range of freelance, non professional [i don't have an "official" degree] graphic/web/multimedia design, which keeps me busy, and pays the bills). I both make a living, and relax at my desk (not to say i'm a hermit who never leaves his computer :p).
 
I fully understand sir, As i'm sure you were not awaire but there is a thing about radeon cards that make them.... more buggy. It depends on the card. some people can go out and buy a 7870 Direct CU II and have driver issues while others can go out buy the same card and it work for them until the warranty runs out.. Its just a matter of, idk luck maybe. If i were you i would have gotten a NVIDIA Geforce card for Photo Shop and graphic design. Other than that your system is fine for graphic design and such but i wouldn't put it into the gaming field maxed out. If you wanna use your current card, my advice would for you to RMnA the card as a bad chip because usually if the drivers won't work or even crash your system just from using the card then you may have another faulty card. If the issue persists after you have rma'd the card then either the drivers are to blame or its another piece of your system causing the crash. AMD"s drivers are a nightmare from abut 70% of the people i know that use AMD Radeon series
 
I fully understand sir, As i'm sure you were not awaire but there is a thing about radeon cards that make them.... more buggy. It depends on the card. some people can go out and buy a 7870 Direct CU II and have driver issues while others can go out buy the same card and it work for them until the warranty runs out.. Its just a matter of, idk luck maybe. If i were you i would have gotten a NVIDIA Geforce card for Photo Shop and graphic design. Other than that your system is fine for graphic design and such but i wouldn't put it into the gaming field maxed out. If you wanna use your current card, my advice would for you to RMnA the card as a bad chip because usually if the drivers won't work or even crash your system just from using the card then you may have another faulty card. If the issue persists after you have rma'd the card then either the drivers are to blame or its another piece of your system causing the crash. AMD"s drivers are a nightmare from abut 70% of the people i know that use AMD Radeon series
 
I fully understand sir, As i'm sure you were not awaire but there is a thing about radeon cards that make them.... more buggy. It depends on the card. some people can go out and buy a 7870 Direct CU II and have driver issues while others can go out buy the same card and it work for them until the warranty runs out.. Its just a matter of, idk luck maybe. If i were you i would have gotten a NVIDIA Geforce card for Photo Shop and graphic design. Other than that your system is fine for graphic design and such but i wouldn't put it into the gaming field maxed out. If you wanna use your current card, my advice would for you to RMnA the card as a bad chip because usually if the drivers won't work or even crash your system just from using the card then you may have another faulty card. If the issue persists after you have rma'd the card then either the drivers are to blame or its another piece of your system causing the crash. AMD"s drivers are a nightmare from abut 70% of the people i know that use AMD Radeon series
 

Fox Racer30

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Aug 18, 2012
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Most people have better luck with NVIDIA, however i've had nothing but bad experiences, my old system had an EVGA GTX 285 in it, granted, it was an old card, but I had nothing but problems with it. It reliably died every 4-6 months, replaced it with an HD5450 (yet another old card) and it was smooth sailing for there out.
Both my MBP and iMac have NVIDIA in them, and both have been in to an apple store for failed cards (the MBP twice)
I struggle to spend the extra cash on NVIDIA, knowing my past problems with them, call me VERY unlucky if you like... but i'd rather find a workaround for buddy drivers, than have faulty hardware time-and-time again
it was a debate I sat on for three weeks while gathering the parts for this build. Everywhere I looked, I saw driver problems with AMD, but most people were able to find workarounds. finally decided just to go with the HD7870 as I was throwing an AMD processor in there, too. (which, i'm completely satisfied with) thus far, the suggested tips seem to e working, but if not, i will most definitely be seeking an RMA, and at that time, I will give NVIDIA a try.

In the gaming field, i'm not a hardcore PC gamer, I fare much better with a good old controller, over mouse & keyboard. (part of that stems from having a slight twitch in my right hand) so I'm nto one to be clamboring for the "uber 1337" best visuals, matter of fact, aside from Skyrim (which is a nightmare to even play with an AMD card), I can run my entire library on Ultra :p
 
Yea with radeon 7800 and 7900 series its easy to max out as long as you have good luck with drivers. I am glad to hear your having a little bit better luck now. Let us know if the issue persists and ill send you the manufactures link to do a rma