Sign in with
Sign up | Sign in
Your question

~$1300 non-OC non-CF/SLI gaming build

Last response: in Systems
Share
October 14, 2012 5:37:59 AM

This is literally my first ever post in these forums, so I apologize if I'm overstepping my bounds or not following protocol. I'm just looking for advice and feedback on a build I've had in mind for quite some time, now.

First, some build stipulations:
Approximate Purchase Date: I'm ready to buy these parts as soon as I get solid feedback.
Budget Range: This build is around $~1300, but cheaper with only purpose-related negligible sacrifice is better.
System Usage from Most to Least Important: I'll be using it for gaming. I don't limit myself to just MMOs or FPSs and I'd like to be able to play on the highest settings. I'll also be using it for web surfing.
Are you buying a monitor: Yes
Do you need to buy OS: Yes, going with Win7 Home Premium 64-bit
Preferred Website(s) for Parts: see links below
Location: Elk Grove, CA, USA
Overclocking: I have no experience with overclocking, so I'd rather not take the risk of frying the first desktop I'd have in several years if it can be avoided.
SLI or Crossfire: No
Why I'm Building: I haven't had a desktop for several years and I'd like one for gaming.

Next, this is the build: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/keaY

Now, I'll address my choices for each component as well as some alternatives I considered.
CPU: Intel i5-3550
I can get it for as much as a 2500K. Since I don't plan on OCing, I might as well go for an Ivy Bridge. I'd upgrade to a 3570/K, but not for more than $10.

Mobo: ASRock H77 Pro4/MVP
As far as mobos go, I wanted something with at least one 3 SATA 3 gb/s for the optical drive, at least two SATA 6 gb/s for the HDD and and a possible boot/cache SSD in the future, and USB 3.0. These are features found on the Z77 chipset. However, since I don't plan on OCing and using CF or SLI, I decided to consider H77s. Compared against the Gigabyte GA-H77-DS3H, which has an mSATA port, and the ASUS P8H77-V LE, the ASRock was the cheapest of the bunch.

RAM: Kingston Blu 8GB (2x4) KHX1600C9D3B1K2/8GX
The difference between DDR-1333 and DDR-1600 is $1, so I'm going with 1600. I'm still not sure whether 4 or 8GB is the standard for gaming PCs, but RAM is relatively cheap, so it's better to err on the side of caution.

HDD: Western Digital Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM WD1002FAEX
I'm going with 1TB so I don't have to mind space restraints as I build up my game collection. There are 1TB 7200rpm caviar greens and blues available for cheaper, but I understand that blacks somehow have better performance. Can someone elaborate? Also, Seagate Barracudas are available for cheaper, but my dad had trouble with a Seagate HDD in the past, so I'm not as open to considering them.

GPU: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 660 Ti 2GB GV-N66TOC-2GD
I want to play games on their highest settings, so I'm willing to shell out for a good GPU. 660 Tis are generally less expensive than 7950s. This model has a 1.03 GHz core clock, but there's an EVGA 915 MHz model available that's $15 less. I really want to make sure I have a good GPU, but I can be persuaded towards the cheaper model if the difference is negligible enough.

Case: Cooler Master CM 690 II Advanced USB 3.0 Edition RC-692A-KKN5
With cases, I'm looking for front USB 3.0 ports, cable routing behind the mobo tray, and good airflow. I also looked at the Corsair 400R and Fractal Arc Midi, but I can get the Cooler Master for the least amount of money.

PSU: Antec High Current Gamer 620W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified HCG-620M
Not much to say, here. Just looking for something that will give my parts good, clean power and won't fry easily.

Optical Drive: LG GH24NS90
Also simple. Just looking for a cheap optical drive that performs decently enough.

Monitor: ASUS VH236H
I want low input lag (read: different from response time) and good HD picture quality out of a monitor. I'm not completely willing to use a CRT, so that limits me to LCDs and LEDs. EVO fighting game tournaments use this monitor because of its low response time, so it's good enough for me.

Mouse: Logitech G400
I hear Razer mice are also fundamentally good, but I'm going to be looking at these things every day. I much prefer Logitech's generally more understated designs. I didn't like the G500 when I tried it and there's no need to pay the premium for the G9x when I can get a G400 for much less.

Speakers: Logitech S220
Just looking for something affordable that'll give me good sound. 5.1 systems seem to be out of my range at the moment, so I figure I should just stick with 2.1s for now. This set is rated pretty highly on head-fi.org. From what I've read, the relatively small subwoofer can put out a surprisingly substantial amount of bass.

So, that's my proposed gaming build. Please let me know if there are any issues that I overlooked or if you have any suggestions. Thanks for your time.

More about : 1300 sli gaming build

October 14, 2012 5:41:11 AM

Get the i5 3450, you wont notice a difference.

Black drives arent that much faster than Blue drives. Try to get the Samsung
Spinpoint F3 or Western Digital Blue.

I like the 400R better, but thats more on personal preference. :D 

Get the HD7950 instead of the 660Ti unless you plan on playing BF3 or Borderlands 2 A LOT.
October 14, 2012 6:01:49 AM

Nw333 said:
Black drives arent that much faster than Blue drives. Try to get the Samsung
Spinpoint F3 or Western Digital Blue.

Get the HD7950 instead of the 660Ti unless you plan on playing BF3 or Borderlands 2 A LOT.

I haven't found any F3s with 6/GB SATA, but if blues aren't all that different from blacks, I'll consider them.

I found a Sapphire 3GB 850 MHz model going for $10 more, but would it really be worth the switch? How much of a difference would it make?
Related resources
October 14, 2012 6:08:18 AM

The 7950 is better for higher resolutions/more monitors and it competes with the 660Ti. The fact that the 660Ti has a 192-bit memory bus makes it crippled and its memory will be slower than that of the 7950 with a 384-bit memory bus. The 7950 also has more vRAM. BUT, if you plan on playing BF3 and stuff like that, get nVidia as it will get better frames than that of AMD since BF3 was coded for nVidia.

Also forgot: Your RAM will void the warranty on the CPU because of high voltage. You want RAM from Crucial (The Ballistix sticks are good), G.Skill (Ares sticks will do good), or Corsair. (Vengeance sticks, one of the best out there.)
October 14, 2012 6:52:36 AM

Nw333 said:
Also forgot: Your RAM will void the warranty on the CPU because of high voltage. You want RAM from Crucial (The Ballistix sticks are good), G.Skill (Ares sticks will do good), or Corsair. (Vengeance sticks, one of the best out there.)

Thank you for that bit. Seems i5s like 1.5V RAM. Will these XMS3s do fine? They're $5 cheaper than the Vengeances and I read that the Vengeances take up more space, which led to compatibility problems with some aftermarket CPU coolers. Neither of those are really that big of a deal in my case, but still.
October 14, 2012 7:05:10 AM

XMS3 is one of the more unreliable ones, but they will do ok. There are low profile Vengeance sticks for the same price. (If I remember correctly)
a b 4 Gaming
October 14, 2012 7:24:32 AM

The Pascuzzi said:
I haven't found any F3s with 6/GB SATA, but if blues aren't all that different from blacks, I'll consider them.

I found a Sapphire 3GB 850 MHz model going for $10 more, but would it really be worth the switch? How much of a difference would it make?


It would make a HUGE difference if you're using Anti Aliasing. Or even if you dont it's still the better card.
!