Need all the help and support I can get...

Booneford

Honorable
Oct 2, 2012
204
0
10,680
Okay, so. Before posting all the proper stuff, let me tell you why I'm back, again. I've been trying to get parts picked out for my new build, for like 2 freaking months. every time, I get a list together, I think it's pretty good, then I upgrade 1 thing. But because of that one thing, I have to get a better this thing, and this, and this, and it just snowballs into a 10,000 computer I CANNOT afford. My budget will be listed below, btw. I am THIS CLOSE to just giving up and buying from cyberpower. ._. I really want to build my own, so please, PLEASE help me out here.

Approximate Purchase Date: e.g.: Once I'm satisfied with all the parts.

Budget Range: I'd say 1100, including windows OEM, so 1k for just the parts.

System Usage from Most to Least Important: Gaming, Internet,

Are you buying a monitor: Yup, don't need advice on that though



Parts to Upgrade: ALL OF THEM. I'm starting with a blank slate here.

Do you need to buy OS: Yes, W7 Home premium 64 bit SP1 OEM


Preferred Website(s) for Parts: always and only newegg, just for organizations sake. idk if there's a 10-20 dollar price diff, all that much.

Location: Paint Lick, Kentucky, USA

Parts Preferences: I personally prefer Radeon cards over GeForce. Maybe that's just me. I kind of have my eye on this one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814202003

Overclocking: Later on, maybe

SLI or Crossfire: I'd prefer 1 good card, but If I can get better for less with SLI, sure, go for it.
Your Monitor Resolution: I'm not good with resolution stuff, but my monito is either 23 or 24 inches, lol. 5ms, sadly. but, hey. I'm cheap.

Additional Comments: starting from scratch here, I'll need a full list. NO MORE THAN 1050, please. I only HAVE 1500, and I need to be able tog et a good keybaord/mouse/monitor (Sidewinder, Deathadder, 24 inch monitor, plus goliathus gaming mouse pad

And Most Importantly, Why Are You Upgrading: Well, my current computer cost 200 dollars a few years ago, and it's a laptop. so yeah. 1.5ghz, Integrated graphics, 1Gb ram.
the works. :p

EDIT: Sorry I left the E.g: in there on a few of them, too lazy to fish them out.
 

zanedragonknight

Honorable
May 9, 2012
110
0
10,690


I'll try to come near $1050, but I'm total crap at staying in budget. My system started at ~$1500, and it snowballed into a $1800, which goes to show I occasionally lack restraint. *cough*.

I personally prefer PCPartPicker.com, which is a fantastic sight that'll list almost every type of computer component you need, with a few peripheral exceptions. It'll also give you the best possible deals on the internet.

The URL for the completed build is as follows:

http://pcpartpicker.com/ca/p/kHwN

I'll explain why I chose each component, and why I've downgraded (yep, you read that right) your graphics card.

The i5 3570-k is the best i5 processor that wont landmine your wallet. It's excellent for overclocking, so if you plan to overclock, pick up a nice CPU cooler in the future. If you can't affor to ever get a CPU cooler (which I doubt), or don't actually intend to overclock (plausible), then go for the cheaper i5 3550. No need to waste money if you're not overclocking.

The ASRock Z77 Extreme 4 is the best plausible motherboard in your price range, and has won a megaton of awards and acclaim. Just google it, you'll see why it's the best. The only danger with it is that its a few inches smaller then a regular ATX mobo, which means 3 screws at the far end (the rightmost edge or the bottom one, not sure which) are not attachable to the mobo to secure it to your case. This means, if stupid enough to shove your hand into your mobo and push it against the inside of your case, you could break your mobo. Though honestly, why the hell would you do that? Also, dropping the case on the floor will likely cause it the motherboard to bang against the inside of your case (though if you're dropping your case on the floor, it's likely everything else will be broken too).

No problems with the Corsair Vengeance, I hope. It's cheap, compatible, and matches the board.

2TB Western Digital Caviar Black for videos,games,songs, and pretty much everything you could possibly want save to your hard drive (*cough* downloaded movies! *cough* piratebay! *cough cough hackle choke*).

Now, the biggie; why the heck did I downgrade from a 7950 to a mere 7870 OC? Am I insane?!

No, but thank you for asking. You see, the thing about Radeon is that they're all about bang for the buck. A $100 Radeon, traditionally will, perform 80% as good as a $200 Nvidia. While today it's more like a $100 Radeon is as good as a $150 Nvidia, the fact remains that every single dollar you pay for a Radeon is well spent. However, above a certain threshold, that "bang for the buck" decreases sharply.

Above that threshold, cards instead can support greater and greater resolutions, and more and more monitors.

That threshold is the 7870.

The 7950 and 7970 will no doubt outclass the 7870 (by a good measure, at least 10 FPS in every single scenario), but they are actually meant to support higher resolutions for biggerand more monitors. And, an overclocked 7870 can outperform a 7950 in several cases, as well!

The 7870 is also quieter and cooler, thanks to the 3 fans it has built in. 3 MASSIVE fans that will cool your GPU perfectly. In fact, the 7850 and 7870 are cooler then the 7950, 7970, 6950, 6970, and every single Nvidia card in its class. EVERY SINGLE ONE. The 560, 650, 660, 670, 680; you name it, the 7870 is cooler and quieter. That's a major plus point in overclocking and electricity bills.

Speaking of which, the 7870 has a nifty feature that means, when your monitor or computer hibernates or goes to sleep (or basically whenever the monitor is off/black), it shuts down 95% of the GPU. When active, it consumes 75 watts. When inactive, only 2 watts. That means you save a LOT of money in the electricity department if your computer is on 24/7, like mine.

At the end of the day, you DON'T NEED the 7950. Trust me on this. I've been doing extensive research, and I'm buying the Gigabyte 7870 OC as well. Just overclock the 7870, or even leave it in its pre-overclocked state.

Woah, I've really done justice to your annoyance at your thread being inactive. ^^

Two more components!

I've chosen the over-over-overkill Antec 750W for one reason only; if/when you upgrade to Crossfire (which is the most economic upgrade you can make, trust me), you will need at least 750 watts to ensure your system has enough power during load peaks. If you are absolutely sure you will never ever upgrade to a monster power sucker or Crossfire, go for 650 W, but I recommend 750 W. You can calculate your wattage from this site:

http://extreme.outervision.com/psucalculatorlite.jsp

Finally, the case I picked is the best one, in my opinion; the Cooler Master Storm Enforcer. It's the case I'm getting; it looks sexy, and is easy to put together. You won't find a better case for less then $70, I promise you.

That brings us to $995 total. I think shipping may cost you a fair bit, I haven't yet ordered from these sites, but expect around $100 (yeah, the total is more like $1100... sorry about that, but the 2TB Hard Disk will help in the future. You can always downgrade to 1TB, thich is like $90 instead of $160).

That's about it. Need recommendations about monitors, keyboards, or speakers and such, or any questions in general, let me know.

P.S. This took me an hour to do. Better appreciate it!
 

zanedragonknight

Honorable
May 9, 2012
110
0
10,690
BTW, PCPartPicker lets you buy from Newegg for every single component listed. But, it's occasionally more expensive. I think it would cost around $60 or $80 more. I also think I gave you the Canada PCPartPicker instead of the U.S. one. Sorry!
 

Booneford

Honorable
Oct 2, 2012
204
0
10,680

Okay, thanks a million for your help, but.... a few things. 1: I will NEVER EVER EVER use 2 TB's of memory!!!! put that extra money away, or get an SSD. also, that mobo is a little pricey, I have a 140 dollar ASROCK Z77 mobo picked out I kinda like. and, I've heard good things abotu Vapor-X, which is why I chose that card. I think I'll just go with my current specs and remove the ssd and the 7950 and go with that, or maybe I'll go wth a gtx 660 ti. seems to me, overall, amd = good for low price builds, Intel = better for high end builds. Not hating on AMD, I love Radeon gpu's. that's just my opinion.
 

zanedragonknight

Honorable
May 9, 2012
110
0
10,690


I revised the build, but I very highly recommend you go with the Extreme 4. I can promise you you won't find a nicer mobo for $110. (Wait what? $110 is less then $140...)

Switched the 2TB Western Digital for a 1TB and a Crucial M4 SSD 128GB. Useful for the OS (16GB to 20GB if its Windows), all your applications, and a game or two (SSDs perform best when you only use half their storage capacity. Not that you have to use half.

AMD processors, in my opinion, are totally useless now. I'd never dare say that a decade ago, but that's the fact of the matter. In my opinion, Intel beats them almost everywhere except extremely-low end.

Don't go for the 660 Ti; you'd get better performance from a 7870. Before overclocking.

I also added a monitor and mouse/keyboard, just as a suggestion. These are the components I'm ordering, and it never hurts to share.

http://pcpartpicker.com/ca/p/kO4U
 

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