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interlaced

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Sep 3, 2012
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My motherboard was faulty so I got a replacement, and my SSD is being replaced, as is my CPU.

My Build is as follows:

Corsair 400R Case
Intel 3570k Ivy Bridge
Corsair Vengeance 8 gb 4x2 1600 Mhz
Cooler Master Hyper Evo +
AsRock Z77 Extreme4
Samsung 830 Series 128gb
Seagate Barracuda 1tb
Corsair CX 600 PSU

I'm wondering if I should replace the case and PSU as there is some good sales right now on the following items.

Corsair 500r:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811139010&nm_mc=EMC-IGNEFL101812&cm_mmc=EMC-IGNEFL101812-_-EMC-101812-Index-_-ComputerCases-_-11139010-L012C

Thermaltake PSU:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817153106&nm_mc=EMC-IGNEFL101812&cm_mmc=EMC-IGNEFL101812-_-EMC-101812-Index-_-PowerSupplies-_-17153106-L012D

NZXT Psu:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817116016


Would it be worth it to switch them out with one of the above? I'm going to add a GPU later on so I know I need a better power supply, preferably Modular. Give me suggestions please.
 

malbluff

Honorable
The Corsair Carbide 500R is one of the best mid-tower cases around, but whether it's worth swapping out a 400R, for it?
Not those PSU's. Corsair PSU's are fine, although CX range is possibly not their best, is certainly OK. XFX, Seasonic, PC Power&Cooling, Antec are all good makes. You didn't list your GPU, to be able to advise on PSU rating.
 

malbluff

Honorable
Unless you are planning on two graphics cards, 600w is more than enough, in fact 550w would be OK. You could even go a bit lower with a 660Ti. Seasonic, Rosewill (Hive or Capstone), or PC Power&Cooling all have good quality modular PSU's around that point.
 

malbluff

Honorable
Yes, that's good PSU, although you really only need the 520w version, certainly with the GTX. The Radeon would also be ok at 520w, although, there, it may be worth going "up one", for more margin. You can OC the Radeon well.
 

malbluff

Honorable
It depends, a bit, which games you want to play. Overall, across a broad range of games, the HD7950 is better value. Some games, including BF3, Borderlands, Starcraft, Portal 2, are optimised for nVidia, so the GTX 660Ti tends to be better, in those games
 

guerrero

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Feb 23, 2012
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Very nice PSU
 

malbluff

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Not too sure what you are saying. If you are saying- used to be 30c with CPU only, and, since adding GPU, has gone up to 37c; that's understandable, and would be the case, unless you increase air flow. 37c is fine, anyway.
If you are saying temp has gone up, WITHOUT any hardware change, that is probably due to a reduction in airflow. Have you checked filters? Even if you clean them regularly, they need replacing from time to time. How often depends on the environment. One of your fans could be running slower. May need adjustment, or may be faulty/damaged.
 

malbluff

Honorable
Assuming you don't have a very dusty environment, you wouldn't expect filters to get heavily contaminated, in a month, although things like smoking, and some pets, CAN cause havoc.
If nothing has been changed, hardware wise, there are a number of possible causes.
1) Could be as simple as you are working the system harder, now, than when you had 30c, and you may simply need to change fan speed settings, for higher load.
2) Filters COULD be contaminated. It's not always possible, by visual inspection, to judge the condition of a filter. It is a good idea to always have a couple of new filters, spare. Then you can check the condition, of an existing filter, by swapping in a new one. If temps immediately improve, substantially, your old filter is dirty. If temps don't drop much, then old filter was OK, and you can put it back in, and save new one, for future use. If you don't have a spare new filter, provided atmosphere isn't obviously dusty: run system, under load until temp stabilises (at 37c, or whatever), then remove intake filter, for a COUPLE of minutes. Even if filter was pretty clean, temp is likely to drop by a couple of degrees. If it immediately drops by a substantial amount, it is time to get new filters (put old one back, until. Slightly high temp is better than no filter) You can usually improve it by blowing compressed air, backwards, through it, or washing (if it is washable)
3) If you have decent fan control on mobo, you can do some "diagnostics". There may be a mobo fault, or a fan fault, causing fan to run too slow. It may just be a case of adjustment. It can be difficult to diagnose, unless you have test equipment, and electrical knowledge. Again, an arguement for keeping a spare, at least intake, fan; then you can always do a temporary swap, to help with diagnostics.
 

malbluff

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PS I'm in UK, so don't know for sure, but presumably you can get spares, from somewhere like Microcentre. What may be cheaper, if you have a local supplier of heating or air conditioning equipment, you can probably buy a sheet of filter material, and cut several out, to size, and make something up, yourself. Take old filter, with you, to be sure you get something similar/suitable.
 

interlaced

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Sep 3, 2012
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Is this setup alright? The fan is hanging over my RAM, and its blowing the hot air towards the exhaust fan, It just doesn't look like the video I watched, the video had it with the fan facing up, blowing the air down or up. I'm so confused. I hope I didn't do it wrong, I just took off the thermal paste and reapplies everything.

iK03B7M7SDVr3.jpg

iCFhuiSkme3Sz.jpg
 

interlaced

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Sep 3, 2012
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I JUST noticed there was an 8 pin CPU Power plug, I NEVER HAD IT PLUGGED IN AND IT WAS RUNNING! Like... What does it actually do if it was working when I didnt have it plugged in?
 

malbluff

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To be perfectly honest, it's not clear from photos, but it's normal for aftermarket coolers to overhang 1st RAM slot, hence the reason for using low profile RAM.
It is also usual to have PSU cables that don't need to be connected, hence the advantage of modular PSU's, so you can remove cables, that are not required. Different mobo, and graphics cards, require different connection. If you don't use the CORRECT connections, it doesn't necessarily mean that nothing will work, but you will lose some functionality, possibly including your fan control, if you have fans connected to mobo.
If you've not already done so, I recommend you download, and read, the full manual, for the mobo, to ensure you are using the correct connections. Build videos are all very well, but they don't tend to explain, that there are several "options" for wiring, particularly for things, like fans. You can wire fans, directly from PSU, in which case they will run at full speed. Some cases have speed selector switches, so you can manually control fans. You can buy a separate controller, for the fans, or you can wire them to the motherboard, and let the mobo's software determine fan operation (you can usually set the parameters, for that).
The most important fans, to be running correctly, of course, are those on your CPU cooler, or you could damage CPU. Fortunately, your mobo SHOULD shut things down, if it detects a problem there.
 

malbluff

Honorable
Firstly, I doubt CPU is "damaged". If it was, it would probably be dead! With respect, you may have 7, or more fans. Input and extract case fans. One or 2 CPU cooler fans. A couple in GPU, and a PSU fan. WHICH fan is on stronger? Which temperature are you refering to? Is this a temperature YOU are measuring, if so where? If it's a temp that mobo is reporting, again, which? It's somewhat difficult to diagnose, at a distance, even with precise info. If I had it sat in front of me, would obviously be easier. You may have to get local repair shop to sort. Probably work out what, if anything, is wrong, in five minutes.
 

malbluff

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Are you talking about CPU temp of 37c (I thought you were talking of air temp), as that's nothing. T.case for i5-3570K is 67 deg C, so you definitely don't need to worry about 37. I doubt your CPU cooler fan is running much above minimum, at 37c.