Under $750

I have posted my previous build ideas and gotten very much useful advice. This will most likely be my last post before ordering the parts and going through suspense in waiting. Please tell me if this is good enough for a freely upgrade-able "future proof" desktop system. I am doing most of my research and pre-building on a laptop now, as my current desktop(dimension 8300) has become difficult to use.

If I go ahead and get win 7, does it still come with a free win8 upgrade?

Based on the parts I have chosen or parts you have suggested, in what order should I assemble the PC? I will likely order these part by 9:00 tomorrow, October 38.

I do not have a static wristband or mat, as I will be expecting some tools gifted to me on Christmas.

Once built and functional, I will overclock the cpu to whatever level you reasonably suggest, and I may overclock the ram to 1866 if it's worth my time.

Intel got me on this one, as I will not be doing heavily threaded CAD, Photoshop, or games until I pay off my little family loan on this PC
(I am 16 years old and in high school)
and buy a graphics card. I believe a graphics card would do most of the work involving such activities anyways, unless hardware acceleration is lowered.

Thanks everyone.
31 answers Last reply Best Answer
More about under
  1. At $750, you should be able to afford a cheap GPU in addition to everything else, though it may only be a Radeon HD 6670 or 7750, though this might be difficult to do with the parts that you've chosen already (probably need to find some sort of bundle on Newegg to free up some of the budget).

    If you don't mind ASRock for a mobo, this bundle can save a little money for ya. - For the CPU and mobo before, you'd pay $350. This combo is $312, minus S&H if there is any. If you choose not to overclock at some point, you could probably free up more budget, though I wouldn't recommend it. Instead, you might be able to find a cheaper mobo (that's just one of the many bundles available on newegg right now).

    Also, there's no real thing such as future-proofing. Intel's bringing out Haswell-based CPUs sometime next year, and they will be on a different socket than the current LGA CPUs such as Sandy and Ivy Bridges are on. Surprisingly, if you want to be able to upgrade the CPU in the future without getting a new motherboard, you'll probably want to look into the AMD AM3+ motherboards, as it appears that that socket will continue having new CPUs built for it.

    While what you have there is pretty good (minus the graphic card, of course), what will you be doing with the system after you do get it? Mostly internet browsing, low-end gaming?

    You should look up Newegg's 'how to build a PC' youtube video, part 2, in order to see how to put it together. I found that to be very good and it helped me build my PC a few months ago (I did the same as you, actually, and waited on the video card until a few days ago).
  2. Best answer
    To be honest, it does have the feel of being a bit betwixt and between. If you want to be concentrating on photo/video work, and CAD, especially in 3D, then you should be thinking of i7 and reasonable, suitable graphics. Obviously that would be outside the current budget. If you are looking for general performance, with gaming, then i5 is the way to go, but you still need a graphics card, probably a better one, than for just "work" stuff. Problem is, of course, doing that, and then upgrading to i7, is an expensive way of doing it.
    If you can clarify exactly what you want PC to do NOW, and what you HOPE it to do in the near future, and some idea of what you hope to spend on that, it would be easier to give some constructive advice. As the previous poster said, AMD may be a more cost effective route, but would try to avoid that as, core for core, Intel is better (but more expensive).
  3. hello :)

    i noticed that you did well in build but without Distribute your money well so you didnt include a gpu to your build so ,
    i think you should follow my last build to a customer ->

    Case: Rosewill CHALLENGER Black Gaming ATX Mid Tower. ($44.99) [...] 6811147153

    Motherboard: ASRock H77 Pro4/MVP LGA 1155. ($79.99) [...] 6813157302

    CPU : Intel Core i5-3450 Ivy Bridge 3.1GHz (3.5GHz Turbo). ($194.99) [...] 6&Tpk=3450

    GPU: XFX Double D Radeon HD 7870 GHz 2GB 256-bit GDDR5.($209.99)

    RAM: CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 . ($41.99) [...] 6820233144

    HDD: Western Digital RE3 WD7502ABYS 750GB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache. ($59.99) [...] ard-Drives

    PSU: CORSAIR Builder Series 500w 80 PLUS BRONZE. ($49.99)

    Optical Drive: SAMSUNG 22X DVD Burner 22X. ($16.99) [...] 6827151244

    Total = $699

    (you can change the case if you want everyone has his own taste ;) )

    if you want an SSD also for goof price you can go for this one :

    SSD : OCZ Vertex Plus 60GB. ($49.99)

    GooD LucK m8 ;)
  4. That's one of the routes, I was thinking. Would be nice to know where OP hopes to "go" with build, because if true multi-threaded, much as it "erks" me to say it, AM3+ MAY be the best way to go.
  5. You all gave some good suggestions, but I do not want to do anything graphics intensive currently. I may not in the future, and Google sketchup seems to work perfectly fine on the core2 quad cpu's at my school.

    The Asrock pro4 will not be able to handle future's pcie cards.

    Can the rosewill challenger really beat out the cm storm enforcer at $65 including MIRs? if I get that case, I will have to skip the deal on red sickleflow fans.

    I will not skip the one-rail psu, as I am a beginner and do not yet know much of psu rails.

    I have some old 80 gig hdd's (one needed reformatting) should I use those in JOBD or raid 0 config and get one ssd? if I get the ssd as just a boot + app drive and mainly read data, will it last much longer?

    Sorry about all the questions.
  6. No worries about asking questions. I know I asked more than my fair share when I was building a PC a few months back.

    If you're going to use old HDDs, make sure that any mobo you get is still compatible with IDE hard drives. Or that the HDD is SATA instead of IDE. Not sure just how old you're talking about when it comes to the HDDs. As far as PCI-E cards go, PCI-Express x16 3.0 cards are still compatible with older PCI-E connections on a mobo. There actually is a 3.0 compliant PCI-E slot on the mobo, so you really aren't missing out on that. Are you planning to SLI/Crossfire in the future? If so, that may be a good reason to get a more expensive mobo.

    I'd probably suggest the Rosewill Challenger U3 over the original, personally. Not a huge thing though, with the only big change being the addition of front panel USB 3.0 to use. The standard Challenger is $10 cheaper than the Storm Enforcer. It's really your call on that decision. The plus side is that if you go with the Challenger, there's quite a few bundles available to go with it on Newegg (and there's a few with the HIVE PSUs, which I've heard are pretty good for the Rosewill brand compared to Cooler Master PSUs). Might be a good idea to look into that, like this one: - That'll save you about $15 right there over the case/PSU combo you have listed already.
  7. There's nothing actually wrong with your original build, if you are not concerned about separate GPU, at present. XFX PSU's are good. Case is obviously, very much personal choice, but nothing wrong with your original choice. As another poster mentioned, there are deals around, to look out for. Don't change, from something you really want for some minor deal, though. I wouldn't mess around, with RAID, on small drives. Unless they're SATA, forget them. The Caviar Blue will be fine, for the moment. Just add a decent SSD, when you can. Add a GPU, whenever. PSU is adequate for virtually any GPU.
    The only thing I'm not sure on, in your parts, is the height of the RAM, and how much clearance there is, for cooler. If in any doubt, use Corsair CML, GSKill Ares, or Crucial Ballistix Sport.
  8. what do you mean by ( he Asrock pro4 will not be able to handle future's pcie cards)
    all the mobo's even the high end mobo's has pci 16x.

    about the case the CM storm enforcer of course its better than the rosewill and as i said many times every one has his own taste specially in choosing the case :) but of course your choice has the superiority :) but u will pay more ..

    about the psu if your not comfort to use the builder series from cosair i would recommend this one for you its performs pretty well :

    and about about the last question i really didnt understand what do you mean :)
  9. I think OP is saying the H77 won't overclock, if he sticks with "K" processor, or support SLi/crossfire.
    It is XFX PSU that he's proposing.
  10. mrdowntownkiller said:
    what do you mean by ( he Asrock pro4 will not be able to handle future's pcie cards)
    all the mobo's even the high end mobo's has pci 16x.

    It favors pci over pcie, that means that if and when i go to install the latest expansion cards, the board will only accept pci after the 1 or 2 pcie slots are in use.
  11. Honestly, the only thing I can think of that would help right now would be a video card. If you go with your parts by merchant lowest possible price, you'll have roughly $100 after you get all your rebates and such. That'd let you get something like a Radeon 6670 or 7750, most likely, which would be a noticeable upgrade over the HD 4000 you'd have in the iGPU on the 3570k (about 6 tiers above the HD 4000). Though by the time you manage to get the rebates back, you might have had more money come through so you could get something better.

    Well, there is one thing to check on, and that's how many fan headers your mobo has. You may not have enough on it to connect all your fans to it, so you may need to get some PSU-to-fan adapters.
  12. if I use a fan controller, does it provide those connections?
  13. Depends on what comes with the fan controller you decide to purchase. To be honest, I'm not certain, as I don't actually have a fan controller.
  14. stuck again: challenger u3 vs storm enforcer
    challenger u3 has esata and is $5 less, but storm enforcer looks cooler and has that drive bay cover
  15. Five bucks? Again, as was stated before, aesthetics is your choice. Is it worth $5 and a lack of the e-sata port to get a slightly more expensive, yet cooler-looking case?

    Go with what you like on that one. The only other thing to consider, I believe, is how much room the inside of the case has for the length of graphic cards. If one of the cases allows you to remove a hard drive cage in the middle-front of the case, then go with that one. I personally think that'd be a good tie-breaker if one can, and the other cannot, because almost no card would be too long to fit inside the case.
  16. is appears to connect to molex plugs
  17. I'm gonna go with a red-blue glow with the cm storm enforcer. I took out the fan controller and changed the hard drive. the fan controller will change the speed of the fans often and irritate me. a consistent noise level will be good.

    the ram is cheap and will go on the farther side, a low profile pair of ram will be added on the cooler side when it may become necessary or just plain cheap.

    Please tell me what I should add to the build in terms of expanding on capabilities, like this

    or this

    or any expansion cards
  18. not much change, but here:
    I may want an ssd in the future, but I will wait until they are more advanced.

    If you really want a pure pcie mobo, wait for haswell or bump it down to the msi g45
    if you want a pure sata3 mobo, wait for haswell or switch to amd. sata3 is too fast for hdd's, so connect them to a lesser port for similar speeds.

    I look to have much room for improvement, but I can't wait for haswell. I am going to build for pure productivity in a way that I can change the main use, like switching it to a gaming rig or just add some cards for modern connectivity. The beauty of it is that it could be anything I want it to be without needing to replace parts for a long time.
  19. Seems sensible choices, subject, as per my earlier comment, about being sure on ram height. If in doubt, use LP RAM, generally wise, when using aftermarket cooler, as often difficult to assess clearances.
  20. if I go with the hdd/ssd combo, will I be able to install it on both drives in case one fails? one licence, $92 is enough for me.
  21. You can instal Windows as many times, as you like, via the same mobo. It's only if you change mobo, in theory, that you need a new license. If you purchase Windows on DVD, you can re-instal it anytime you want. Good to have decent back-up software though, then the problem doesn't arise, you can restore, everything, in a few minutes, hassle free.
  22. thanks, been getting mixed info about that, good to know
  23. Best answer selected by lxgoldsmith.
  24. NEW NEWS, the mobo only uses dvi-d, so just getting an adapter would do nothing. I'll need to wait for a video card or trade the ssd for a $60 one. it wouldn't be worth it, so I'll wait for a new monitor or card.
    also, 90 gig vertex 3 for $60, good deal, right? I will use that as my main os drive. I have some(2-3) old ide drives, should I get a pci/pcie adapter or use them externally?
    I also have 60 gig 3.5 sata and 1-2 5400 rpm laptop drives. if used internally, will all drives slow to 5400 rpm?
  25. You've lost me a bit with first comment. Which mobo are we talking about DVI-D, only?
    The Vertex 3 wasn't much good. Vertex 4 is fine, though. Also Samsung 830, or Crucial M4. There's a newish Samsung 840, but have no idea what it's like.
  26. 1. gigabyte z77x d3h
    2. so it's not rally a good deal, or should I get a lower capacity ssd that's faster?
  27. sorry, I meant that it has a vga port and hdmi, but the dvi port is digital only, not dvi-i or dual link
  28. Most of the basic Z77 boards, including the Gigabyte, have D-sub,DVI-D, and HDMI. Some of the more expensive mobos also have RGB and Display Port. What have you got on your monitor. Normally you would be connecting to a graphics card, anyway.
    For SSD, I would bother getting anything smaller. Tend to be not much cheaper, than bigger ones, so not good value. If you can wait for Black Friday, you may be able to pick up something like a 128GB Samsung 830, at good price. SSD prices tend to go up and down, quite a bit, so watch out for a good deal. They had 128GB Samsung, for, I think, $69 recently, on Amazon. It's a question of grabbing a deal, when you can.
  29. I have a really old graphics card with 2 vga out and 2 1248x1024 vga monitors. It's the nvidia geforce fx 5200, and all of those I see seem to have 1 vga and 1 d-sub, but mine has 2 d-sub. I may be able to use it if it's pcie instead of agp, too. If I do use it, can I use it only for ports? if not, is there another expansion for just ports? if so, it should be cheaper than a full graphics card at first setup.
  30. Confess this isn't my area of expertise. If you post a question on the monitor forum, I'm sure you will get "chapter and verse", but your mobo has both D-Sub, and HDMI, so, as I understand it, if you want to connect 2 monitors that are VGA only, you would need an adapter from HDMI to VGA, for one. For the other, I "believe" you can get an adapter, from D-Sub to VGA. If not, from D-Sub to HDMI, then to VGA. Messy, I admit. Like I said, not really my field, so honestly think you'd be wise to ask, in monitors.
  31. d-sub is vga, but thanks, I'll add that hdmi to vga adapter to my list
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