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Building a pc very soon

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Last response: in Systems
October 28, 2012 3:48:50 PM

hey folks,

i'm going to build a new pc very soon... budget of $800-900. i'm thinking of building it as follows:

ASUS P8B75-V

INTEL I5-3570 (non-k version) with stock heatsink

3X4 KINGSTON VALUE RAM 1333MHz

GIGABYTE GTX 660 OC 2GB

WD Blue 1GB SATA 6GB/s

ASUS 24X DVD R/W DL

Thermaltake Commander MS-I + 450W PSU (INCLUDED)

SAMSUNG S22B300B LED Monitor



What do you think?

More about : building

October 28, 2012 3:53:52 PM

Included PSU's usually aren't recommended, I'd buy a good unit separately.

That triple channel RAM isn't great for socket 1155, I'd grab dual channel stuff.

Other than that it looks OK.
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October 28, 2012 4:03:05 PM

It's either the K version or not for the CPU.
If you're not gonna OC, you can just get the 3450 or 3470. A 0.2GHz difference won't even be noticed.

If you don't mind AMD, the 7850/7870 would be better cards too.

+1 to jmsellars1 about the RAM. I don't think you can even run triple channel on that. You might end up using just two of the sticks.
Also, try to get 1600MHz. Sometimes there isn't much difference in price.
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October 28, 2012 4:20:37 PM

Your build will work, but I would do some things differently.

1) I have no real problem with a i5-3570. But, consider buying the 3570K instead.
For an extra $15, you can give yourself the option of improving your cpu performance from 3.4 to 4.3 or thereabouts.
The is not much of a price premium for a 25% boost in cpu capability.
You do not need to OC right out of the box, but it is a small price to pay for that option. The "K" is designed for user upping of the multiplier. All it needs is a decent air cooler which I recommend regardless. Lastly, whenever it comes time to sell the cpu, the 3570K will command a price differential > the $15 you spent on it. There are any number of Z77 based motherboards that do not cost any more, and will allow such multiplier overclocking.

2) 3 ram sticks is not a good idea. You can only find them at elevated voltages which are intended for X58 socket motherboards. Also, the odd 4gb stick will operate in single channel mode. If your usage is for gaming, 8gb (2 x 4gb)is fine. If you have 64 bit enabled apps, then get a 16gb kit of 2 x 8gb. 1333 speed is fine. There is little real app advantage to speeds over 1600. Considering the minimal difference, I suggest 1600 ram.
Read this on ram speed scaling: http://www.anandtech.com/show/4503/sandy-bridge-memory-...

3) The only case vendor whose psu's I would buy come from Antec.
Thermaltake psu's will be tier 3-5 on this list, depending on the model. You can do better.
http://www.eggxpert.com/forums/thread/323050.aspx
Buy a quality psu of about 500W. That should be sufficient for a card as good as a GTX670, and should not cost any more.

4) Regardless of overclocking, or not, I recommend an aftermarket cpu cooler. A tower type cooler with a slow turning 120mm or larger fan will keep your cpu cooler, and run quieter. It will also be much easier to mount than the stock Intel pushpin mount.
Something like the $30 cm hyper212 would be good.

5) Do you really need a full ATX sized motherboard with 4 expansion slots?
A M-ATX size with 4 slots should do the job and be cheaper.

6) How much storage will you really need? If you will be storing large video files, then a 1tb drive will be needed.
If so, then I would use a WD black which will be faster.
But... consider building using a SSD instead of a hard drive. It will make everything you do feel so much quicker.
A 120gb ssd will hold the OS and a handful of games. You can always add a hard drive later. If your ssd is 180gb, you may never need a separate hard drive.
For reliability, I would look to Intel or Samsung.
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October 28, 2012 4:31:42 PM

There are more powerful psu's and not expensive, make sure your system is reliable too. Try to have a look between 550W and 600W so it will help for future upgrades.
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October 28, 2012 5:25:12 PM

thank you folks for your cooperation, now i'm modifying my plan to be as follows:

ASUS P8B75-V

INTEL I5-3570k

Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo

Corsair Vengeance 2x4 1600MHz

GIGABYTE GTX 660 OC 2GB

WD Blue 1GB SATA 6GB/s

ASUS 24X DVD R/W DL

Thermaltake Commander MS-I

XFX PROSERIES 550W

SAMSUNG S22B300B LED Monitor

SSD to get upgraded few months after the build

if you think i should get a better mobo/2ms monitor and/or anything else just tell me what you folks think

also which do you think is better? a GIGABYTE mobo or an ASUS one?

thanks again :) 
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October 28, 2012 6:48:48 PM

what you folks think?
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October 28, 2012 6:57:30 PM

Try this build for a change + it's really good would give you a solid 55+ FPS in Wow on MAXIMUM (expect for shadows on high)
DX 11 MODE
MultiSampling x1, Antrispotic filtering: trilinear 1920x1080 on a crowded raid 25+ PPL In one tiny place
BUILD
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
CPU: (Intel) i5-3330 / i5-3450 / i5-3470 (Get cheapest one) / (AMD) AMD FX-8320
CPU Cooler: (AMD) CoolerMaster Hyper 212+, or EVO, or above if wanted
Motherboard: (Intel) Any B75 motherboard / (AMD) Any 990FX motherboard
RAM: Any 2 x 4GB RAM while keeping my notes (DDR3-1600, 1.5v)
Graphics: Radeon HD 7870 2GB
Power Supply: PC Power and Cooling Silencer MK III 500W or other similar power supplies
SSD: Any of the 120/128GB performance-based SSDs
Hard Drive: 1TB or above if wanted
DVD Drive: Cheap DVD burner
Case: CoolerMaster Storm Enforcer or similar mid-tower case with at least 2 fans
(Intel) Example Build: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/ikTQ
(AMD) Example Build: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/lfZO

Estimated cost: (Intel) ~$875 ~ +++ / (AMD) ~$965 ~ +++
Estimated FPS in WoW: ~55+
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October 28, 2012 7:47:06 PM

Better. But...

1) If you will use a B75 based motherboard, you will not get any OC value from the"K", and you might as well stick with the 3570.
Here is a link which describes the various capabilities of the ivy bridge chipsets.
BCLK overclocking is not easy and very limited. With a Z75 or Z77 based motherboard you can do multiplier overclocking, which is what you want. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LGA_1155
I still like the 3570K as a long term cpu. It will still be very good for gaming, even when haswell appears next year.
If you like ASUS as a brand, I suggest the ASUS P8Z77-M . I have used the predecessor P8P67-M pro with no problems.
If you want less expensive, look to Asrock which is a spin off from ASUS. They were intended to be a source for budget motherboards, but they progressed into competeing with asus.
I have used Gigabyte, ASUS,ASrock, and ECS. ECS is less known, but they have usa support, and seem to have a good product.
Take your pick.
Regardless, any Z77 based motherboard will give you good results. No need for an expensive enthusiast motherboard. They are intended for high overclockers and multiple graphics cards.

2) There is no standard on how to measure lcd response times. I would ignore that as a selection criteria. Most monitors will refresh at 60 hz(times per second) That is once every 16 ms. I like Samsung as a display vendor. They make the panels for many other display vendors, and I think they keep the best samples for themselves. I have never had a single dead pixel from them.

3) Make certain that your ram is low profile. Tall heat spreaders are mostly marketing, and can interfere with some cpu coolers.

4) A Intel 330 120gb ssd now costs $99, about $15 more than the hard drive you picked.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
It will be easier to load your os and games initially on a SSD and add a hard drive later in a couple of months if you need it.
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October 28, 2012 11:03:51 PM

custompc, i'm actually an intel-nvidia person :)  i really find them low power, working stably great, and perform faster
folks consider my budget open-ended a little bit... i just want a great performance (maxed out games with the highest shades ever) for each dollar i pay
i'm considering thermaltake level 10 gts... it has a good cable management and a big 2000mm front fan
i guess xfx pro series is agreed on here... unless you think there's a better choice
i found a deal on kingston (not hyperX) 120gb ssd... are they good to buy instead of intel?
also i heard that gigabyte mobos have a bios issue and get too hot... some said it doesn't work at all. i heard asus is the best... what you folks think?
about the monitor... it has a D-Sub cable.... does it affect the image quality or anything?
geofelt... i've been considering the low profile rams until some folks here told me not to... i wasn't planning on a triple channel i just wanted to fill the sockets with dimms for faster performance nothing more. i can rotate the cooler so it faces the gpu but idk i'm a little confused about the whole build
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October 29, 2012 12:44:04 AM

Uh... who exactly told you not to use low profile RAM?
Honestly, I believe it's a good investment for futureproofing. There is absolutely no disadvantage on using low profile sticks compared to the normal ones with tall heat spreaders.

XFX is a great PSU manufacturer.

Kingston and Intel aren't all that great on SSDs either. The general consensus here is either the Vertex 4 or Samsung 830.
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October 29, 2012 2:33:36 AM

Ricoster1 said:
custompc, i'm actually an intel-nvidia person :)  i really find them low power, working stably great, and perform faster
folks consider my budget open-ended a little bit... i just want a great performance (maxed out games with the highest shades ever) for each dollar i pay
i'm considering thermaltake level 10 gts... it has a good cable management and a big 2000mm front fan
i guess xfx pro series is agreed on here... unless you think there's a better choice
i found a deal on kingston (not hyperX) 120gb ssd... are they good to buy instead of intel?
also i heard that gigabyte mobos have a bios issue and get too hot... some said it doesn't work at all. i heard asus is the best... what you folks think?
about the monitor... it has a D-Sub cable.... does it affect the image quality or anything?
geofelt... i've been considering the low profile rams until some folks here told me not to... i wasn't planning on a triple channel i just wanted to fill the sockets with dimms for faster performance nothing more. i can rotate the cooler so it faces the gpu but idk i'm a little confused about the whole build


Let me see if I can help with some issues.

Everybody has a budget. Just that some are bigger than others.

For gaming, the graphics card is the most important component.
The GTX660 is a nice card on a budget, but you will have a more balanced build with a stronger card.
My rule of thumb is to spend twice your cpu budget on the graphics card. That means a GTX670 or gtx680 if you are a nvidia fan.
A strong video card will give you higher fps, more eye candy, and better minimum frame rates. I suggest the EVGA GTX670 FTW for $370. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
For $450, you can get a GTX680 superclocked. That is as good as it gets for a single gpu card, but I don't think it is $70 better than the GTX670. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
There are two things I like about these cards. #1 is EVGA support, and #2, the direct exhaust coolers. 28nm cards do not run that hot anyway, and the direct exhaust gets the heat directly out of the case.

The thermaltake level 10 gts case looks great, and if you really love it, buy it.
But from a value point of view, it is not so good.
You can buy any number of quality cases from Antec, Corsair, Silverstone, lian li, coolermaster, NZXT that will do the job at half to 1/4 the price. Really, how much does the case need to hold? A motherboard, ssd, hard drive and a dvd. If a case has at least two 120mm intake fans and an equal amount of exot area, ot will have sufficient airflow for a ivy bridge cpu and a single graphics card.
I suggest you use most of that budget elsewhere.

XFX is a good psu brand, but there are other good ones too.
Post links so we can see what you are thinking of exactly, and what the price is.
Here is a psu list tiered by quality.
http://www.eggxpert.com/forums/thread/323050.aspx
You are safe with anything in tier 1 or 2.

1.5v ram does not get very hot. Heat spreaders may help those high overclockers pushing high voltages int0 the ram, but not for stock operation. And... the difference in performance from overclocking ram might be 1fps or 1% app performance. Not much.
Ivy bridge motherboards will have 2 or 4 ram slots. You want to fill them in pairs of equal size so you get dual channel operation.
ou want documented ram compatibility. If you should ever have a problem, you want supported ram.
Otherwise, you risk a finger pointing battle between the ram and motherboard support sites, claiming "not my problem".
One place to check is your motherboards web site.
Look for the ram QVL list. It lists all of the ram kits that have been tested with that particular motherboard.
Sometimes the QVL list is not updated after the motherboard is released.
For more current info, go to a ram vendor's web site and access their ram selection configurator.
Enter your motherboard, and you will get a list of compatible ram kits.
While today's motherboards are more tolerant of different ram, it makes sense to buy ram that is known to work and is supported.


Intel and samsung make their own nand chips and can do a better job of validation.
Check the newegg reviews for 0-1 eggs, and you will see them show up with numbers like 6-7%.
Most others look like twice that. But, kingston seems to be doing very well, it is just not as popular. I would be OK with their ssd's.

I would not worry about motherboard heat. I suspect that issue only arises from those doing high voltage overclocking.

I think I would pass on a monitor with only DSUB connectivity. With modern graphics cards, I think you want DVI or HDMU digital connections for best quality.

Post a list of your parts, along with a link to where you might buy from.

Did you know that if you live near a microcenter, they will sell you a 3570K for $190?
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October 29, 2012 1:22:42 PM

i guess thermaltake commander ms-i is a good choice... i'm looking for a case with at least one front usb 3.0 header... any suggestions? i was only thinking about the thermaltake level 10 gts (a $110 case) because it has a great cable management plus a front 2000mm fan
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

i'm thinking about gigabyte but idk if it's a good choice comparing to asus
some people reviewed the kingston ssd as it's very bad and it dies early...

should i buy it now or should i wait until intel/samsung ssd prices get lower and get an HDD now?

the gtx 670 is great but it'll make me pay more for it. lower priced 670's available are zotac and gainward... idk if they're good comparing to evga and gigabyte

i develop graphics a lot and that's why i'm upgrading for a better build
i don't know if gtx 660 is good enough for graphic designs and video editing

i'm thinking about getting 4x4 kingston value ram 1333 is that a good choice? or should i get the 2x4 corsair vengeance 1600?


i heard that samsung recommends d-sub for s22b300b better quality idk and idk which monitor to buy for like $150 max
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October 29, 2012 2:12:20 PM

Ricoster1 said:
i guess thermaltake commander ms-i is a good choice... i'm looking for a case with at least one front usb 3.0 header... any suggestions? i was only thinking about the thermaltake level 10 gts (a $110 case) because it has a great cable management plus a front 2000mm fan
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

i'm thinking about gigabyte but idk if it's a good choice comparing to asus
some people reviewed the kingston ssd as it's very bad and it dies early...

should i buy it now or should i wait until intel/samsung ssd prices get lower and get an HDD now?

the gtx 670 is great but it'll make me pay more for it. lower priced 670's available are zotac and gainward... idk if they're good comparing to evga and gigabyte

i develop graphics a lot and that's why i'm upgrading for a better build
i don't know if gtx 660 is good enough for graphic designs and video editing

i'm thinking about getting 4x4 kingston value ram 1333 is that a good choice? or should i get the 2x4 corsair vengeance 1600?


i heard that samsung recommends d-sub for s22b300b better quality idk and idk which monitor to buy for like $150 max


It is good you posted links.
I thought you were talking about the $270 thermaltake level 10 GTS now edition:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
I think this is the one you were thinking about:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
It looks OK to me.

I have no problem with gigabyte or asus motherboards. You will always see more negative posts because there is always some chance of product failures, and they tend to get reported more than successes.
If you wish, add up the percent 0 or 1 eggs on a product for some sort of satisfaction rating. That is really only valid with a fair number of reviews.

Both SSD and hard drive prices are still dropping. SSD because of competition and lower nand costs, and hard drives because of recovery from the Thailand floods. If you can't do both, install using a SSD first, so you will not have to do a reinstall of everything later. Cloning from a large drive to a smaller SSD may not work. But, video files will tend to be large, suggesting a hard drive. If ou can do your initial work on a ssd first, I think that is easier.

For graphics design, and editing a GTX660 is good. You probably can do with less. For gaming, I would go stronger.

For editing, consider 16gb. The larger amount of ram can be used by 64 bit enabled apps to reduce the need for workfiles, and improves performance.
Ram is cheap. Whatever you do, buy a two stick kit. Either a 8gb kit of 2 x 4gb, or a 16gb kit of 2 x 8gb. It is easier for a motherboard to manage two sticks vs. 4, and the cost difference is minimal. Kingston value ram is fine. If there is little cost difference, get 1600 ram.

Can you point me to where samsung favors D-sub over dvi for quality? That surprises me.
Regardless, that monitor has both types of inputs.
And... I don't think any cards in the GTX660 series or stronger come with any D-sub outputs.
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October 29, 2012 3:19:19 PM

www.youtube.com/watch?v=ySco9uztvxQ
in this video the guy said samsung recommends d-sub for better quality
strong gpus come with a d-sub dongle for d-sub-based monitors. idk if it makes any difference... if i go for a samsung monitor that's 1902x1080 with 2ms refresh rate i'll have to pay like $40 more

still no words about the kingston? the one i saw a good deal on is the kingston ssdnow v200... it has a bad review on newegg though as it goes slowly when installing windows... bare in mind that "my whole build is going for windows 8"... a value gaming rig

i guess corsair and g-skill are on the top is that right?

ps please recommend me good monitors for like $150

and tell me if there's a better case for money than "thermaltake level 10 gts"

feel free to modify my build with suggestions
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October 29, 2012 3:37:56 PM

I don't buy the D-sub is better quality assertion.
If in doubt, contact samsung and send them the youtub link for comments.

I really doubt that using a dvi to d-sub adapter and connect int to a d-sub input will be any better than a dvi to dvi connection without an adapter.
Since you get both, you can try it yourself and see if there is any difference.

I know kingston is a good manufacturer, but for reliability, I would stick with Samsung or Intel if the price is anywhere near close.
Perhaps a bit of patience is in order. Both Intel and samsung have had ssd sales.

On ram, most ram vendors seem equally good. I have used both G.skil, Corsair, and kingston without issue.
Just make certain the kit you buy is supported.

If the TT level 10 case appeals to you, that is a good reason to buy it.
Otherwise, from a value point of view, the Antec 100/200/300 series cases are half the price and will do the job well.
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October 29, 2012 6:51:05 PM

on the samsung website they say that the monitor has a DVI port (didn't specify which type of DVI it supports) also on nvidia website they say that the card has DVI ports without specifying what type. now what type should i get?
if it's about patience on ssd's i think i should get a wd blue 500 gb until i get an amazing intel/samsung ssd... u think that's the best choice for now?
the gtx 670 would be a little burn in my pocket. i believe 2 years from now the gtx 670 would be as fast as gt850 :)  so i think i should stay with the gtx 660 unless you think it affects the games when max them out
i see you've overclocked your i5-3570k to 4.3... do you feel a better performance with that? and how much voltage did you oc at?
also i'd like to get a list of the best router manufacturers
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October 29, 2012 7:19:45 PM

Ricoster1 said:
on the samsung website they say that the monitor has a DVI port (didn't specify which type of DVI it supports) also on nvidia website they say that the card has DVI ports without specifying what type. now what type should i get?
if it's about patience on ssd's i think i should get a wd blue 500 gb until i get an amazing intel/samsung ssd... u think that's the best choice for now?
the gtx 670 would be a little burn in my pocket. i believe 2 years from now the gtx 670 would be as fast as gt850 :)  so i think i should stay with the gtx 660 unless you think it affects the games when max them out
i see you've overclocked your i5-3570k to 4.3... do you feel a better performance with that? and how much voltage did you oc at?
also i'd like to get a list of the best router manufacturers


If a SSD will have enough storage for you initially, I would do that first, and add the hard drive later.
That way, you get the benefit which is greatest for the os first. Windows installation and service updates take hardly any time at all.
And, you will have no conversion/migration issues if you did the reverse. But, if you will need all the storage right away, then get the hard drive first. Set aside a partition for windows so that you can delete it later after another clean install on the ssd.

Some monitors like 2560 x 1600 monitors need dual link dvi cables and ports. 1080P does not.
Any gaming graphics card will support dual link graphics output.
Here is a link that tells you all you might want to know about dvi(and probably more)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_Visual_Interface

On storage, I would use a WD black for the os vs. the blue because the black is a bit faster.
Regardless, both hard drives and ssd's will keep coming down in price.

The resolution you play at will affect how much eye candy and fps you can get. The higher the resolution, the harder a graphics card has to work. Take your best guess, or check benchmarks for your intended games. Anything you can buy, you can also sell if your needs/wants change. The GTX660 is a very good card so go with it if it fits your budget.

I oc'ed my 3570K to 4.3 right out of the box. I left the voltage and ram settings on auto, changing only the multiplier.
To tell the truth, I don't think I would have noticed any difference from stock. I keep the task monitor active on my second monitor, and I never see all the threads used, and none ever go past 50% utilized.

Some time ago, I had a linksys router that gave me all sorts of problems.
I replaced it with a DLINK DIR-655 which has been flawless. It never needs rebooting. It was easy to install, even for a networking noob like me.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
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October 29, 2012 8:18:15 PM

i need a computer that can run stably with games for like 2 years... well again... budget-value basis

i really love ssd's and i think they can load photoshop in less than a second (which is great) but i guess i should wait until i get the intel 180gb for less (maybe this xmas) do you recommend samsung over intel?

i'm considering buying a cheap wd 500 blue for now then upgrade in 3 months max

i guess the d-sub and dvi give the same output but the difference is the type of the signal (digital - analog) maybe i should start it with the integrated d-sub and see how good the picture (for gaming) is.

i've read about the gpu benchmarks and i don't see much difference between 660ti and 660 plus they say that the gtx 660 has a better value... do you think it can run the upcoming crysis 3 very well?

the i5-3570k is good but i think any quad-core i5 can run stably fine though i'm thinking about the i5-3570 cause as you said the k version won't give any noticeable performance gain plus it'll cut the motherboard budget by $50

also the 1333 vs 1600... the difference is like $10-15 but i like corsair

i'm thinking about keeping the whole build for like 2 years at least... do you think that i5-3570 (non-k)/gtx 660 build can still run games maxed out with enough fps? please tell me what you think...

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October 29, 2012 8:34:33 PM

The 3570K is more like a 4 year cpu. Upcoming haswell will be 15% more cost effective, and will not obsolete a 3570K.
If you are looking at a 2 year horizon, then a i3-3220 combined with a stronger graphics card would serve you better.

I don't much like interim solutions, they do not satisfy current needs, and are thrown away when the upgrade comes.
If you want a ssd, buy one up front. If you don't then buy a better wd black up front.

Graphics cards with similar price points will perform similarly. There is not that much difference getween adjacent performance tiers. Who knows about crysis3? In the past, crysis was the game that brought a graphics card to it's needs. If you plan on running well, buy the best graphics card you feel comfortable paying for.
Without a top end card, I doubt that you will be able to run at high fps with full eye candy. Compromises will need to be made, but you will still have a good gaming experience.

Corsair makes good ram. You will notice no difference between 1333 ram and 1600(2%?). Buy 1600 only if the price difference is small.
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November 3, 2012 12:31:48 AM

hey latest update for my build:

CPU: INTEL I5-3570K
CPU COOLER: COOLER MASTER HYPER 212 EVO
MB: GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-D3H
RAM: CORSAIR VENGEANCE (G-SKILL RIPJAWS-X) 2X4 1600
GPU: GIGABYTE GTX 670 OC 2GB
HDD: WD BLUE 500GB SATA 3 6GB/S
SSD: INTEL 330 180GB
DVD: ASUS 24X DUAL LAYER
CASE: THERMALTAKE LEVEL 10 GTS (BLACK)
PSU: SEASONIC M12II 620W
MONITOR: SAMSUNG S23A350H - S23B370H

what you folks think? any suggestions?
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November 3, 2012 1:00:53 AM

Ricoster1 said:
hey latest update for my build:

CPU: INTEL I5-3570K
CPU COOLER: COOLER MASTER HYPER 212 EVO
MB: GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-D3H
RAM: CORSAIR VENGEANCE (G-SKILL RIPJAWS-X) 2X4 1600
GPU: GIGABYTE GTX 670 OC 2GB
HDD: WD BLUE 500GB SATA 3 6GB/S
SSD: INTEL 330 180GB
DVD: ASUS 24X DUAL LAYER
CASE: THERMALTAKE LEVEL 10 GTS (BLACK)
PSU: SEASONIC M12II 620W
MONITOR: SAMSUNG S23A350H - S23B370H

what you folks think? any suggestions?


Perfect, don't change a thing.

Well... the ream IS the low profile version is it not? That's so it will not interfere with your cpu cooler.
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November 3, 2012 1:38:17 AM

high profile but i'll install them into the farther dual channel slots
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November 3, 2012 1:47:03 AM

Dual channel doesn't always work like that, most of the time the slots go (in slot layout and channel layout)
1-2-3-4
1-2-1-2

I.E to get dual channel they need to go in slots 1 and 3 or 2 and 4
Just a warning
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November 3, 2012 2:20:37 AM

Ricoster1 said:
high profile but i'll install them into the farther dual channel slots

It costs no more for low profile ram. 1.5v ram does not need any at all. It is mostly marketing unless yoou are a record seeking overclocker.
Your motherboard manual will give you the options on which slots must be populated first to get dual channel operation, or any operation at all.
Some motherboards are flexible, others are not.
The easiest thing to do is buy low profile ram.

If you must, it should be possible to attach your cpu fan in a pull orientation, instead of the more efficient push orientation.
Really not that big of an issue.
Or... you can usually slide the fan up a bit higher on the tower to clear high heat spreaders.
Google for instructions on how to remove vengeance heat spreaders if you really need to.
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November 3, 2012 2:37:40 AM

alright then it'll be as follows:

CPU: INTEL I5-3570K
CPU COOLER: COOLER MASTER HYPER 212 EVO
MB: GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-D3H
RAM: KINGSTON VALUE RAM (Low Profile) 4X4 1333
GPU: GIGABYTE GTX 670 OC 2GB
HDD: WD BLUE 500GB SATA 3 6GB/S
SSD: INTEL 330 180GB
DVD: ASUS 24X DUAL LAYER
CASE: THERMALTAKE LEVEL 10 GTS (BLACK)
PSU: SEASONIC M12II 620W
MONITOR: SAMSUNG S23A350H - S23B370H

do you think 4 1333's are good? i'm picking 4 RAM sticks cause the kingstons are cheaper
anyway any suggestions?
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November 3, 2012 2:50:04 AM

I see you upped the ram from 8gb to 16gb and lowered the speed to 1333.
I have no problem with 1333, but 1600 will usually cost almost the same.
But, I would buy a 2 stick kit of 2 x 8gb.
It is easier for a motherboard to manage 2 sticks.

I see kingston 4 x 4gb 1333 for $70 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

G.skil 2 x 8gb 1333 is $65 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
Corsair is the same price: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

G.skil and corsair have 2 x 8gb 1600 ram for about the same price

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
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November 3, 2012 4:34:37 PM

i'll go for the 2x4 corsair or g-skill 1600 low profile rams for now. i'm just worried cause i've read all the reviews on newegg about the gigabyte ga-z77x-d3h and the ud3h version (both have 4 egg rating) some talk about the following:

1. not enough support for via onboard sound or the via usb 3.0 ports
2. the mobo loop reboots
3. the mobo works for a while then you get the blue screen of failure
4. some mobo ram and pcie slots don't work out of the box!
5. the mobo doesn't even start out of the box

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

the 1-4 egg reviews on both mobos tell a lot about how bad they are... the d3h has worst reviews

this is the real mobo failure scare to me idk. also asus buyers rate many z77 chipsets at 4 eggs and brag about some issues too
which to choose?

can you recommend me a good reliable mobo no matter what the band is? i tend to like gigabyte d3h because it has 4 sata 3.0 6gb headers and a lot of usb 3.0 ports but idk if it's reliable enough for a 2-3 year build

also do you recommend that i should update the bios out of the box before any windows installation?

i've read the d3h manual and it tells stuff about the RAID 0... RAID 1... idk what that is and if it's important at all for any "necessary" configuration for the ssd... the ssd should work out of the box right?

another question... can a sata 2 3gb asus dvd work with a sata 3 6gb cable?
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November 3, 2012 7:00:44 PM

To start with, NEVER update the bios unless you absolutely need to to fix a problem that impacts you.
A failed bios update can permanently brick your motherboard.

I would tend to recommend a motherboard that has been out in the market for at least a little while.
New motherboards often have little issues that need bios updates to fix.
Possibly the one with the most reviews, good or bad is a good choice.
I think all the major brands are good.

You really only need one 6gb sata port, and that is for a SSD.
Even 6gb HDD drives do not get a significang boost from a 6gb attachment. Their performance is gated by their mechanical properties.

Raid, of any kind needs multiple identical drives to implement.
It is useful only for certain specific purposes, and that is not usual for a gaming pc. Ignore raid.

It seems that even the most popular Z77 motherboards have a 15% 0-1 egg dissatisfaction rating.
I would not assume that this is the chance of failure for you.
I would not be overly concerned.
Reviewers are more likely to post issues than no problems.
Assume that any motherboard you pick, for whatever reason, will work properly.
They all have warranties.

Sata 3 and sata 6 cables are identical. In theory, the sata 6 cables more closely adhere to the standards and can transmit the full capability pf 6gb. If you have any sata 6 cables, use them first on the SSD. after that sata 3 is fine elsewhere.

Many failures are self inflicted, like Incompatible ram and cheap psu's
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November 3, 2012 8:05:44 PM

i'll go for corsair low profile 2x4 1600 1.5v...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

though the memory model is not listed within the support list... but in the following link gigabyte says that it's listed "some" of all the supported rams saying that rams on the market are too many to count

http://download.gigabyte.us/FileList/Memory/mb_memory_g...

idk if those corsair rams that i picked are supported by the gigabyte ga-z77x-d3h

i agree i shouldn't update bios... but do you think all the SATA and USB ports wil work fine on windows 7 without bios updating? i heard that the gigabyte mobos come with an old bios (f5) and "needs" to get updated to have everything work with like windows 8... idk

i have some new updates about my build... because the samsung monitor that i want is discontinued (and i want a full hd 1080p with at least dvi) i've found an attractive monitor that i hope you take a look at it and tell me if it's worth paying $190 for or not

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

i know it's asus but it comes with built-in speakers, audio in and out, d-sub, dvi, hdmi support... an audio cable, a dvi cable, and a d-sub cable... i guess it's a nice piece of work ALTHOUGH many review it gives a ghosty image quality (although it's 2ms) please check it out and tell me what you think

oh and about the gigabyte... in the manual it says it has 2 bios chips... one as a main and one as a backup... if updating bios seems necessary as some people claim... do you think the bios update failure would get resolved by clearing the cmos and provide the main chip with the standard bios copy from the backup chip? i'm intending to overclock though it's something new for me to experience :) 
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November 3, 2012 9:52:03 PM

That Corsair ram is very good and IS uupported.
Here is a link to their selection app: http://www.corsair.com/us/learn_n_explore/

When you buy a motherboard from a high volume e-tailer like newegg, you will get one with the latest bios.
Only if you are buying used, or from a small shop with old stock might you get earlier bios.

I think you will be satisfied with the monitor. Most were.
Do not put too much import on 2ms response time. There is no standard on how to measure it. Monitors will refresh at 60hz.
2ms is about 500hz.

Modern motherboards now routinely include provisions for failed OC settings.
Most of the time, an over agressive oc setting will be detected and fixed by the bios.
If that fails, disconnecting the psu will often work.
Lastly, removing the cmos battery will reset the bios to the stock initial value.
In the end, there really is no worry.
Including a second backup chip is good, and a second level of recovery.

If you overclock conservatively by only changing the multiplier gradually, you will be fine.
Do not get agressive with changing voltages.
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November 3, 2012 10:51:17 PM

i have a thought about the psu though... the seasonic m12ii 620w has a 12v wattage or whatever at 578w... i guess it's very enough for i5-3570k oc with gtx 670 oc and 5-6 fans installed... besides the rest of the build up there...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
i have a 500w electric stablizer running my current computer (which has a psu of 350w) do you think my new build can run fine under a 500w stabilizer while the psu is 620w?
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November 4, 2012 1:04:03 AM

Ricoster1 said:
i have a thought about the psu though... the seasonic m12ii 620w has a 12v wattage or whatever at 578w... i guess it's very enough for i5-3570k oc with gtx 670 oc and 5-6 fans installed... besides the rest of the build up there...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
i have a 500w electric stablizer running my current computer (which has a psu of 350w) do you think my new build can run fine under a 500w stabilizer while the psu is 620w?


Seasonic is about the best quality psu you can buy today.
It is more than enough. Apart from the graphics cards, the rest of the pc takes very little power.
You could probably do with 500w, but I like a little extra.

"stabilizer" Is a term I have not heard before. I think you mean a 500w uninterruptible power supply.
Those are great, particularly if your wall electricity source is inconsistent.
Regardless, a psu will draw only the power demanded of it, regardless of it's peak capacity.
You are good.
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November 4, 2012 1:17:42 AM

i'm sorry i meant it as in a voltage regulator... i have a 500w voltage regulator the runs my current 350w pc... idk if it can work with a psu demanding like 620w or something

i totally agree with you that you that there's no such a noticeable difference between a 2ms and a 5ms monitor though this link says there's a "very noticeable" difference!...

http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/monitors/display/lcd-m...

all the cheap samsungs i had on mind (1080p 5ms) are discontinued so if i have to get up with a samsung i'd have to go for the s22b300b (1080p) idk if it's "full hd":
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

but it comes out with a d-sub cable... the asus i mentioned above comes out with a lot of cable supports (hdmi-dvi-d-sub-analog audio) and a dvi cable and a d-sub cable in the box (it also has built-in speakers) but the price is higher by only $20... idk about the quality of asus monitors comparing to the samsung ones... please help me choose
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November 4, 2012 9:47:35 AM

what you folks think?
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November 4, 2012 11:21:15 AM

HD has been marketed in a very silly (or very clever) way, it is just a resolution but it is marketed like it is a whole different experience or something.

1280x720/1366x768 etc is seen as HD for some reason, computer monitors have been that way for years but TV's have been stuck at 640x480 or lower for a while so it is seen as a step up. 1920x1080 is seen as the next step up from that and has been marketed as full HD. Again, PC's have been running this for a while but as far as I'm aware, no TV/Blu Ray etc. has reached 1080P yet.
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November 4, 2012 1:20:06 PM

"regulator" is another term that I can't recognize.
If you are talking about a "surge suppressor", then that protects against power surges that can damage your parts.
a"UPS" is an uninterruptible power supply that has a battery that will allow inconsistent power to be masked by the device.
Regulator might be an acceptable term, since that is also a function of a UPS.
A moot point, since your rig will not consume close to 500w anyway.

1080P is 1920 x 1080 resolution. That is a very common and good resolution.
It is less expensive because 1080P is also used for TV sets, and there is economy in high volumes.

Whatever you do, use a dvi or HDMI connection. They are digital connections which are more efficient and of higher quality.
HDMI has the advantage of also transmitting sound, so if your monitor has speakers, you will get basic sound.
Mostly, separate powered speaker systems, even cheap ones, will give you much better sound.
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November 4, 2012 3:11:42 PM

alright folks... final thoughts for the build:

CPU: INTEL I5-3570K
CPU COOLER: COOLER MASTER HYPER 212 EVO
MB: GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-D3H
RAM:LOW PROFILE CORSAIR VENGEANCE 2X4 1600 1.5v
GPU: GIGABYTE GTX 670 2GB OC
HDD: WD BLUE 500GB SATA 3 6GB/S
SSD: INTEL 330 120/180 GB SATA 3 6GB
--> OR: ADATA S500 SERIES 120/180 GB SATA 3 6GB
DVD: ASUS 24X DUAL LAYER
CASE: THERMALTAKE LEVEL 10 GTS (BLACK)
PSU: SEASONIC M12II 620W
MONITOR:
SAMSUNG S22B300B (1920X1080 5ms 250 cd/m2) --> first priority
SAMSUNG S23A700D 3D READY (1920x1080 2ms 250 cd/m2) --> if i get a great deal on it
ASUS VE247H (1920x1080 2ms 300 cd/m2) also if i get a great deal on it

please feel free to review this :) 
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November 4, 2012 4:59:01 PM

The Samsung 840 Series SSD might be worth a look, it is likely to be better quality and faster than the Intel 330.

You could easily cope with the 520W model of that PSU, an extra 100W isn't going to hurt though.

Personally I'd consider IPS monitors too, even if it's a cheap one. The response time isn't important for most people. Like 95% of people wouldn't even notice the difference between 2ms and 10ms, I know I don't. Mine is 6.5ms and it has never bothered me. IPS have the advantage of much nicer colours and much better viewing angles too. Again though, this is personal preference.
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