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GTX 660 Ti VS. Radeon HD 7950

Last response: in Graphics & Displays
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September 2, 2012 5:56:29 PM

As the title states, which would be best?

I plan on playing many of hours of Skyrim (with various mods) and Battlefield 3. Good possibility that I'll be playing Borderlands 2 as well.

I'm on a tight budget; otherwise I would go with a gtx 670. I have all my other parts picked out. Pretty much trying to build a "good enough" gaming PC (with a bit bigger balls than average) to play those games I listed above.

Once I purchase this GPU, I'll be able to upgrade it in 4-5 months.

Any and all suggestions are welcome. Thank you for any input.

More about : gtx 660 radeon 7950

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a b U Graphics card
September 2, 2012 6:00:28 PM
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September 2, 2012 6:10:54 PM

Thank you for the quick response.

What specific version of the HD 7950 would you recommend. I'm eager to give overclocking a try.
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September 2, 2012 6:21:32 PM

Yeah, I'd go with that Saphire 7950, absolute beast of a card. The 660ti is barely on par with the 7870 so a 7950 will definitely be a better choice, especially if you play on higher resolutions down the road.
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September 2, 2012 8:21:37 PM

No question, get the 7950. I can't believe Nvidia is charging $300 for the 660ti when the 7950 is $320 at most vendors. The 7870 is $260, and that's what the 660ti needs to be!
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a b U Graphics card
September 2, 2012 8:30:24 PM

7950, Gigabyte's Windforce version. Make sure you use something like MSI Afterburner when you get it to push it further. It will last for at least 2yrs. Is the rest of your system up to scratch? Decent CPU and PSU?
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September 2, 2012 8:47:34 PM

Smeg45 said:
7950, Gigabyte's Windforce version. Make sure you use something like MSI Afterburner when you get it to push it further. It will last for at least 2yrs. Is the rest of your system up to scratch? Decent CPU and PSU?


Yup...

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.99 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($32.30 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: ASRock Z68 PRO3 GEN3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($104.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($41.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 7950 3GB Video Card ($317.86 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.49 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Antec 550W ATX12V Power Supply ($56.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer ($14.98 @ Outlet PC)
Total: $888.58
(Prices include shipping and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2012-09-02 16:47 EDT-0400)

Might take a look at Gigabyte's version of the 7950. Otherwise, I'm gonna be going with Sapphire's Vapor X version. I don't think PCpartpicker has it listed just yet, but regardless, it's similarly priced to the one I picked.
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a b U Graphics card
September 2, 2012 9:00:02 PM

DeusAres said:
Yup...

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.99 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($32.30 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: ASRock Z68 PRO3 GEN3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($104.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($41.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 7950 3GB Video Card ($317.86 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.49 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Antec 550W ATX12V Power Supply ($56.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer ($14.98 @ Outlet PC)
Total: $888.58
(Prices include shipping and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2012-09-02 16:47 EDT-0400)

Might take a look at Gigabyte's version of the 7950. Otherwise, I'm gonna be going with Sapphire's Vapor X version. I don't think PCpartpicker has it listed just yet, but regardless, it's similarly priced to the one I picked.

solid build :D 
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a c 87 U Graphics card
September 2, 2012 9:03:38 PM

I'd recommend going with a Western Digital Blue over the Samsung hard drives these days because Samsung's quality has dropped since they sold out to Seagate. Even then, that's a great build that you have in the works.
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September 2, 2012 9:24:38 PM

blazorthon said:
I'd recommend going with a Western Digital Blue over the Samsung hard drives these days because Samsung's quality has dropped since they sold out to Seagate. Even then, that's a great build that you have in the works.


I understand, but I'm trying to stay under a certain budget. I feel Samsung's drives are sufficient. They consistently receive good reviews. The only thing that turns me off is the sata 3 GB/s interface.

Thanks for all the recommendations guys. Seems as though I've come to a semi-final decision. Gonna be going with the HD 7950...now I have to decide between Gigabyte and Sapphire Vapor X. :lol: 
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September 2, 2012 9:25:16 PM

Best answer selected by DeusAres.
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a b U Graphics card
September 2, 2012 9:29:27 PM

DeusAres said:
Yup...

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.99 @ NCIX US)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($32.30 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: ASRock Z68 PRO3 GEN3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($104.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($41.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 7950 3GB Video Card ($317.86 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.49 @ SuperBiiz)
Power Supply: Antec 550W ATX12V Power Supply ($56.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer ($14.98 @ Outlet PC)
Total: $888.58
(Prices include shipping and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2012-09-02 16:47 EDT-0400)

Might take a look at Gigabyte's version of the 7950. Otherwise, I'm gonna be going with Sapphire's Vapor X version. I don't think PCpartpicker has it listed just yet, but regardless, it's similarly priced to the one I picked.


Z77 and an i5 3570K would be a better choice. No real point buying an older chipset and generation.
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September 2, 2012 9:44:37 PM

Smeg45 said:
Z77 and an i5 3570K would be a better choice. No real point buying an older chipset and generation.


I could appreciate that point a bit more if I had the extra cash to burn. I'm on a tight budget. The 2500k and z68 combo will more than get the job done. I'm actually looking at an even cheaper z75 based board. I don't plan on doing Crossfire or SLI in the future so therefore the PCIe 3.0 will be unnecessary for me. Thank you for your input. :) 
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a b U Graphics card
September 2, 2012 10:22:29 PM

DeusAres said:
I could appreciate that point a bit more if I had the extra cash to burn. I'm on a tight budget. The 2500k and z68 combo will more than get the job done. I'm actually looking at an even cheaper z75 based board. I don't plan on doing Crossfire or SLI in the future so therefore the PCIe 3.0 will be unnecessary for me. Thank you for your input. :) 


In that case, consider my upgrade - I bought a 3470 + H77M-D3H for $270. Fresh new chipset and Ivy Bridge.
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a c 87 U Graphics card
September 2, 2012 11:24:50 PM

Smeg45 said:
In that case, consider my upgrade - I bought a 3470 + H77M-D3H for $270. Fresh new chipset and Ivy Bridge.


The i5-2500K is a considerably faster CPU when overclocked, although I do see reason in going for the newer models.
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a c 87 U Graphics card
September 2, 2012 11:39:50 PM

DeusAres said:
I understand, but I'm trying to stay under a certain budget. I feel Samsung's drives are sufficient. They consistently receive good reviews. The only thing that turns me off is the sata 3 GB/s interface.

Thanks for all the recommendations guys. Seems as though I've come to a semi-final decision. Gonna be going with the HD 7950...now I have to decide between Gigabyte and Sapphire Vapor X. :lol: 


Samsung's current drives are just Seagate Barracudas with a new label. They have about twice as many (maybe three times more) reviews involving failures than the Western Digital Blues by percentage of reviews. The Blues are also not much more expensive at all. Are you on so tight of a budget that $10 or so means so much to you? It's your choice, but this is my recommendation and my reasoning for it.
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September 3, 2012 12:05:22 AM

blazorthon said:
Samsung's current drives are just Seagate Barracudas with a new label. They have about twice as many (maybe three times more) reviews involving failures than the Western Digital Blues by percentage of reviews. The Blues are also not much more expensive at all. Are you on so tight of a budget that $10 or so means so much to you? It's your choice, but this is my recommendation and my reasoning for it.


Yes, that $10 difference could mean the difference between me being able to eat during my days at college. The same reasoning goes behind the sandy bridge vs ivy bridge dilemma. I may be able to scrounge more cash later. But the base budget cannot exceed $900. I'd rather it be lower to be honest. But if I do that, I'm gonna take a considerable impact in performance.

Thought about dropping the GPU down to a HD 7870, but I feel the HD 7950 would be worth it. I was originally gonna go with a gtx 670, but I can't fit it in the budget.
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a c 87 U Graphics card
September 3, 2012 12:12:22 AM

The 7950 is better than the 670 if you overclock anyway and your PSU is plenty for that.

Regardless, if money is so tight, then why are you spending it on what is basically a very expensive toy? Even a Radeon 7850 with an i3 can get good 1080p performance with most settings maxed out in most games. That'd save you money on power consumption too.
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September 3, 2012 12:30:10 AM

I eventually plan to use this build more than just for gaming. I'm currently working to get my masters degree in computer science. May as well start somewhere. And if I'm gonna buy and build a computer, I may as well put decent parts in it.

Not only that, but quite a bit of this cash is gonna get wasted on Xbox 360 games/ accessories (that I don't need) and/or ganja. I already have around $300-400 stowed away for food/emergencies. That leaves me approximately $900 to do whatever I please. I figured building a decent desktop would serve as a unique experience as well as be helpful in obtaining my degree. Gonna be getting another $1500ish paycheck in a couple of months. I can use some of that to purchase upgrades if needed.

I doubt those Samsung drives are that bad. It has an average of 4.7 out of 5.

http://pcpartpicker.com/part/samsung-internal-hard-driv...

On newegg, it gets 4/5 eggs out of 2000 reviews.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

I'm quite certain I'll be fine.
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a c 87 U Graphics card
September 3, 2012 12:40:40 AM

Rating doesn't matter. The reviews matter more (and even then, not always because some reviews are ignorant of what they were doing and you need to know how to tell the ignorant from the knowledgeable to make use of reviews). For example, on newegg, both Antec and Raidmax often have 4/5 reviews for their PSUs, but Raidmax is crap and Antec is great. Raidmax's bad reviews are from failures whereas Antec's and other good brands are from things such as cables being a little tight. They aren't comparable just because of the ratings. You need to read into something a helluva lot more than that to know what you're getting into. Having a two-three times higher failure rate is not worth saving $10 IMO.
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September 3, 2012 12:50:23 AM

blazorthon said:
Rating doesn't matter. The reviews matter more (and even then, not always because some reviews are ignorant of what they were doing and you need to know how to tell the ignorant from the knowledgeable to make use of reviews). For example, on newegg, both Antec and Raidmax often have 4/5 reviews for their PSUs, but Raidmax is crap and Antec is great. Raidmax's bad reviews are from failures whereas Antec's and other good brands are from things such as cables being a little tight. They aren't comparable just because of the ratings. You need to read into something a heluva lot more than that to know what you're getting into.


You can typically go by ratings when out of 2000 reviews it gets a fairly high score. If it was such a big deal, I think there would be a whole lot more people complaining about it. Samsung and Seagate make decent drives. Plus, I still get a 1 year warranty. Most drives fail within the first couple weeks of operation anyhow. I can upgrade when I get the cash. It's not a big deal.

Besides, your claims apply to both the Samsung drive and the Western Digital drive. Both are susceptible to failure and biased reviews.
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a c 87 U Graphics card
September 3, 2012 12:53:49 AM

EDIT: I'm not saying that you must change your decision, only trying to make sure that you know that your decision is much more likely to cause problems later on. It isn't necessarily going to be a problem, it's just far more likely to be a problem.
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a c 87 U Graphics card
September 3, 2012 12:58:08 AM

DeusAres said:
You can typically go by ratings when out of 2000 reviews it gets a fairly high score. If it was such a big deal, I think there would be a whole lot more people complaining about it. Samsung and Seagate make decent drives. Plus, I still get a 1 year warranty. Most drives fail within the first couple weeks of operation anyhow. I can upgrade when I get the cash. It's not a big deal.

Besides, your claims apply to both the Samsung drive and the Western Digital drive. Both are susceptible to failure and biased reviews.


The point is that Western Digital fails far less often, especially with their Blue and Black drives. Samsung doesn't make their hard drives, Seagate does, and Seagate does not do nearly as good of a job as Western Digital. Western Digital already does a questionable job every now and then, why increase the risk? It's a few dollars. Sorry, but I have a lot of trouble believing that $10 or so is this big of a deal given what you've told me so far.

Again, like I said, ratings are almost meaningless. They are muddied greatly by opinion and ignorance of the majority of people whom don't know what they're doing with the hardware anyway. Most people don't even know how to give a proper review and rating.

Also, what do you do when your warranty runs out and a drive fails after after that (regardless of whether it's your first drive or a replacement)?

I've given my recommendation and reasoning, take it as you will, I don't want to argue with the person who I'm trying to help over this, so I'll leave you to make your final decision without me bothering you over it. Regardless of your choice, good luck.
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September 3, 2012 12:59:15 AM

Ah, well, thank you for the insight. I appreciate it.

Thought about trading it out for this drive...

Western Digital Caviar Blue WD5000AAKX 500GB 7200 RPM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

I don't particularly need all the storage. I've yet to use up all 750gb of my laptop's HDD.
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