Jakester93

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Oct 30, 2012
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Hi, I'm new to Tom's Hardware and I saw that a lot of good people are here who are willing to help people out! :)

I'm looking to get a new PC soon that can handle gaming as well, the PC I have now..well lets just say it can run minecraft on low specs haha!

Budget: $1200 (Of course cheaper is better) (No monitor is needed)

I want this computer to last me a while and not need an upgrade within the next year.

I'm not sure all the games I will play yet, but here are some I will be playing: (Though of course I will play others)
-Arma II
-Arma III
-Dayz
-Warz
-Battlefield
-Steam Games
-Origin Games
-Minecraft
-Terraria
-GTA
Etc...

Now let me say this, I have never built a computer before! I have no idea on where to start or how to build one AT ALL. Now I know some people say it's easy, but I'm scared if I did build one myself I would mess something up!

I've heard of websites such as Ibuypower and Cyberpowerpc, have you heard good/bad things about these companies? I really don't want to run into trouble and deal with dificulties.

I also know tha Frys would build a computer for $100.

I want to know what you guys recommend I should do, and also what parts would be best for my gaming pc?

THANK YOU SO MUCH!

Also some last questions!

I want to futureproof as much as possible..now I know you cant completely do this but I want to do the best I can.

1. i5 vs i7 Processor is it a big difference should i go with i7?

2. Nvidia vs. AMD Graphics pros and cons? What do you recommend?

3. Ram...as far as wanting a build to last, should I go with 16gb?

4. Is there a big difference between NVIDIA GTX 670 vs GTX 680...and then again or is AMD better?

Again...thank you!
 
Building a computer is easy. I built my first one at 14 with a screwdriver (well, re-built but still) and just a screwdriver.

The hardest thing for me usually is the cable management. If you want it to look good, you have to take the time to route some cables around.

I WANT A JOB AT FRYS NOW.

Now, as for your build. this is what I would do.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3470 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($149.99 @ Microcenter)
Motherboard: ASRock H77M Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($39.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($74.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Storage: Samsung 830 Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($87.99 @ B&H)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon HD 7950 3GB Video Card ($309.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($59.99 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer ($15.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (64-bit) ($91.99 @ Amazon)
Total: $900.91
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)

I left out the case because in my personal opinion, the case is the part that judges creativity and personality, and its more of a preference thing. I chose my Antec Sonata because of looks and silence, though I would not recommend it. I can give you some recommendations if you are stuck, but pick one that appeals to you.

You won't have to upgrade this for awhile. Its a very strong build.
 

g-unit1111

Titan
Moderator
1. i5 vs i7 Processor is it a big difference should i go with i7?

No go with i5 and put more money in the GPU - that is what makes or breaks the difference on a lot of builds.

2. Nvidia vs. AMD Graphics pros and cons? What do you recommend?

The Radeon cards have been proven to match or beat NVIDIA's numbers on just about every card, and they're also winners in the value category.

3. Ram...as far as wanting a build to last, should I go with 16gb?

Nah, it will be several years before games start using that much. Put that in the GPU.

4. Is there a big difference between NVIDIA GTX 670 vs GTX 680...and then again or is AMD better?

Both cards use the same processor. The 680 has higher VRAM clock speeds and is capable of using more VRAM more efficiently but better would be to get a 7970 GHz edition.

I left out the case because in my personal opinion, the case is the part that judges creativity and personality, and its more of a preference thing. I chose my Antec Sonata because of looks and silence, though I would not recommend it. I can give you some recommendations if you are stuck, but pick one that appeals to you.

But there are a *LOT* of crap cases out there - you know the usual junk brands like Apevia, Raidmax, Xion, etc - I never advise people to purchase those as they fall apart easily. You don't want to damage your new components by constantly having to switch cases. And I've done that.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3470 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($149.99 @ Microcenter)
Motherboard: ASRock H77M Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($69.99 @ Newegg)

If you're going to spend that kind of money on a rig and have it "future proof", you'd better be prepared to overclock. The only way to truly future proof a build is to keep all your expansion options open - having an mATX board and that CPU will cripple long term expansion.

I'd try something like this:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($214.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U9B SE2 37.9 CFM CPU Cooler ($57.98 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($139.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($38.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($88.98 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 7950 3GB Video Card ($284.99 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT Phantom 410 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($109.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: PC Power & Cooling Silencer Mk II 750W 80 PLUS Silver Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer ($15.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8 (OEM) (64-bit) ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1141.87
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
 
But there are a *LOT* of crap cases out there - you know the usual junk brands like Apevia, Raidmax, Xion, etc - I never advise people to purchase those as they fall apart easily. You don't want to damage your new components by constantly having to switch cases. And I've done that.

I very much agree with this statement. There are some pretty bad case manufacturers. I especially despise the ones that come with really bad power supplies *cough* Logysis *cough*

If you're going to spend that kind of money on a rig and have it "future proof", you'd better be prepared to overclock. The only way to truly future proof a build is to keep all your expansion options open - having an mATX board and that CPU will cripple long term expansion.

This is true. If I wish I did something on my computer, its a full ATX motherboard. But this motherboard is from my previous build, and my previous build was exclusively in an M-ATX case. Board works well though.

 

g-unit1111

Titan
Moderator
I very much agree with this statement. There are some pretty bad case manufacturers. I especially despise the ones that come with really bad power supplies *cough* Logysis *cough*

Logisys, HEC, and CIT all make some horrendous power supplies, and their cases have lots of sharp edges and poor build quality. I've used a lot of cheap cases and I've come to the conclusion that they're just that - cheap. Like really cheap.
 


I think the cheapest case I've used is one of the Logysis ones that came with the power supply in it. I ditched the power supply and its sitting in the power supply graveyard I have.
 

G gave you some basics in answers, here is some extra detail if you want it.

I disagree that overclocking is necessary to future-proof a system. With what you've said, games will be the most demanding thing you'll ever run on this computer. This rig will be more than adequate for any OS, web surfing, and productivity apps for at least five years. The i5 paired with a 7950 will let you play any game this year and next at the highest detail levels. After that, you may need to drop the detail a touch to keep up the frame rates. Still, getting two years of top service from a GPU is a pretty good lifespan.

If you want to get top-end performance in all your games, you'll likely need to get a new card about every two years. The CPU will be fine for longer. Just remember that you don't need insane frame rates or the highest detail levels to enjoy a game. So long as it looks good to your eyes and you have a 40fps min, I don't think you need more. Besides, in many fast-pace games, if you stop to look and appreciate the world detail, you get your head blown off.
 

g-unit1111

Titan
Moderator
I disagree that overclocking is necessary to future-proof a system. With what you've said, games will be the most demanding thing you'll ever run on this computer. This rig will be more than adequate for any OS, web surfing, and productivity apps for at least five years. The i5 paired with a 7950 will let you play any game this year and next at the highest detail levels. After that, you may need to drop the detail a touch to keep up the frame rates. Still, getting two years of top service from a GPU is a pretty good lifespan.

I agree that it's not completely necessary for future proofing a system, but cheaper motherboards severely limit your expansion options. If you want to use SLI or run multiple HDs / SSDs, add more RAM, etc, then with a cheap motherboard you're SOL.

If you want to get top-end performance in all your games, you'll likely need to get a new card about every two years. The CPU will be fine for longer. Just remember that you don't need insane frame rates or the highest detail levels to enjoy a game. So long as it looks good to your eyes and you have a 40fps min, I don't think you need more. Besides, in many fast-pace games, if you stop to look and appreciate the world detail, you get your head blown off.

Actually I think any time there's a major change in architecture like from the ATI 4XXX to AMD 7XXX, or Tahiti to Keppler, or from Core 2 Duo to Sandy / Ivy Bridge, that is when you make the move to upgrade. After a major change like that - the next wave will be minor improvements to the architecture with nothing really significant until three - four years down the line at most.
 
True, though of course it does matter what kind of expansion you're even looking to do. If you have no plans for SLI/Xfire, or any other type of expansion cards, you don't care about more than a single PCIe x16 slot. Four SATA ports is enough for the vast majority of builds, and you'll usually get at least two SATA III ports for SSDs. The real limiting features on the cheap boards is the lack of eSATA, USB 3.0, high-end audio jacks, and as you pointed out RAM slots. I'd wager that for the average user, even for some enthusiasts, that don't RAID drives or go for multi-GPU setups, a good mATX board will be fine ( emphasis on good, I know there's some very cheap and limited boards out there. ) My rule of thumb is that if you don't know if you need the expansion, chances are you don't.


For the average user, absolutely. I was more commenting on those people that feel like they have to have 60+fps in all their games, all the time. Someone like that will want to upgrade their GPU every generation and their CPU every other gen. The more patient user will find they can quite get by with a 3+ year-old rig and will recognize it may not be flashy but that it gets the job done.
 

g-unit1111

Titan
Moderator
For the average user, absolutely. I was more commenting on those people that feel like they have to have 60+fps in all their games, all the time. Someone like that will want to upgrade their GPU every generation and their CPU every other gen. The more patient user will find they can quite get by with a 3+ year-old rig and will recognize it may not be flashy but that it gets the job done.

Yeah I pretty much do overhauls of my rigs every 3 years or so, with a fresh build every six. My last full rig was in 2009 when I was running X58 and a GTX 260, and that lasted until last year when I started incrementally upgrading my rig, and now I'm running Ivy Bridge and dual 7870's. My work PC I first built in 2007 and I didn't do a major overhaul of it until last year when I upgraded to Sandy Bridge.

The real limiting features on the cheap boards is the lack of eSATA, USB 3.0, high-end audio jacks, and as you pointed out RAM slots.

That's exactly why I can't really recommend most mATX boards. It's not because of internal connectors, it's because of the external ones. Most mATX boards really limit the number of external connectors you can use, and even your case limits that as well.

I'd wager that for the average user, even for some enthusiasts, that don't RAID drives or go for multi-GPU setups, a good mATX board will be fine ( emphasis on good, I know there's some very cheap and limited boards out there. ) My rule of thumb is that if you don't know if you need the expansion, chances are you don't.

That may be true if you're someone who doesn't really know much about computers, but I don't think most of us who post here regularly qualify for that. :lol: