Complicated (for me) dual monitor setup. Need the experts!

Hello all.

I am trying to set up my system to use a 19" eMachines "900w" monitor as a secondary to display temps, fan speeds, etc.

I'm having trouble with just about everything. Nothing seems to be going as planned.

Let me post my config so you know what I'm working with (I'm sure it's duplicated in my sig, but better safe than sorry).

MOBO: Asus P8Z68-V Pro/Gen3 (3402 BIOS)
CPU: Intel i5-2500k
COOLER: Cooler Master Hyper 212+
MEMORY: Corsair Vengeance 4GB DDR3 1600 9-9-9-24
VIDEO: VisionTek Radeon HD 4670 1GB PCIe (Catalyst 12.6) using HDMI out to Pioneer A/V
HDD: Seagate Barracuda 1TB SATA 7200rpm/32MB cache
OPTICAL: Asus BST-24B1ST SATA DVD Burner
POWER: APower 800w
CASE: Apevia X-Cruiser Black (2x 120mm LED fans, 1x 80mm LED fan)
OS: XP Pro SP3 (32 bit)
A/V: Pioneer VSX-1019AH-K 7.1 960W (cooled with 3x 120mm LED fans)
MONITOR: Mitsubishi 73" DLP @ 1920x1080
LIGHTING: 1x Blue cold cathode tube
ETC: Logitech G15 gaming keyboard (I play in the dark a lot)
TEMPS: CPU 19c idle, MOBO 29c idle


Neither DVI nor VGA have worked well (DVI sort of works, but I can't change the res, have no real control, etc).

The 4670 is driving my primary with HDMI, but no matter which cable I choose, whether I use AMD's Catalyst or just right-click and do simple Windows properties, I can't get anything to work as I'd like.

I sometimes lose my primary display (the big one), sometimes the secondary just goes to standby, and sometimes I just sit in the corner and cry.

My goal: continue using my 73" as my primary, have the 19" showing Speedfan, Asus AI Suite II, GPU-z, whatever.

What settings do I want to use? What cable do I want to use? Will I have any hair after this is over?

Looking ahead, what monitoring program do you guys recommend? Things like core speeds and voltages are nice to see, but temps worry me the most.

Of note: I sit about 7' away from the 19", so any LARGE and GRAPHICAL displays for temps, fan speeds, etc. are best.


Thanks to everyone for their time and advice.


(PS): I guess I could use the onboard graphics to do this too, couldn't I? My mobo has HDMI, DVI, AND VGA outputs. All are disabled in the BIOS, but if necessary, I can re-enable them.
1 answer Last reply
More about complicated dual monitor setup experts
  1. OH YOU HAVE AN APOWER.

    I'm really sorry, but before I address your problem I have to comment on your power supply.

    Now there's bad power supplies. Here's the list:

    Tier 1 Brands - The Most Powerful And Stable Components On The Market.

    Antec Signature
    Antec High Current Pro -1200w
    Antec HCP Platinum 1kW
    Corsair AX
    Enermax Galaxy
    Enermax Revolution
    Kingwin Lazer Platinum
    PCP&C TurboCool
    PCP&C Silencer Greater than 610 watt
    Sapphire Pure
    Seasonic X-Series
    Seasonic S12D/M12D
    Silverstone ZF (Etasis 85/75/56)
    Seventeam ST Greater than 600w (SSI, V2.91)
    Silverstone OP/DA Greater than 700 watt
    Silverstone ZM
    Ultra X3 Greater than 1000 watt
    XFX Black Edition
    XFX XXX Edition
    Zippy/Emacs SSL
    Zippy/Emacs GSM
    Zippy/Emacs PSL
    Zippy/Emacs HG2
    Zippy/Emacs HP2

    Tier 2 Brands - Top Quality components With Top Notch Stability - For Those With Price/Availability Issues With Tier 1

    Antec Neo HE
    Antec High Current Gamer Series
    Antec EarthWatts greater than 700 watt
    Antec TruePower Trio
    Antec TruePower Quattro
    Antec TruePower New -- 750w
    Akasa PowerGreen 80+
    CoolMax CTG-750 watt/850 watt/1000 watt
    Cooler Master Ultimate/UCP
    Cooltek CT
    Corsair GS600 / GS800
    Corsair HX
    Corsair TX
    Corsair VX
    Cougar SX700 and GX700
    Enermax Liberty
    Enermax Infiniti
    Enermax MaxRevo 1350
    Enermax MODU82+
    Enermax Platimax (600, 750, 850, 1.2K)
    Enermax PRO82+
    Enermax PRO87+ (500w + 700w)
    Enhance ENP-GH
    Fortron (FSP) GLN
    iStarUSA PD2
    iStarUSA PD3
    LEPA G500
    OCZ EliteXStream
    OCZ Fatal1ty
    OCZ GameXStream less than 1000 watt (only if manufactured in December 2007 or later)
    OCZ StealthXStream 400 watt
    OCZ StealthXStream 2 greater than 700 watt
    OCZ Modstream (only if manufactured in December 2007 or later)
    OCZ EvoStream
    OCZ ProXStream
    OCZ Z(t)(s) Series Less than 1000W
    OCZ ZX 850w
    PC P&C Silencer less than 610 watt
    PC P&C Silencer MkII
    Rosewill Capstone (450, 750)
    Rosewill Hive (550, 650)
    Seasonic S12
    Seasonic M12
    Seasonic Energy Plus
    Sentey Golden Steel Power 850w
    SevenTeam ST less than 600 watt
    Silverstone OP/DA 700 watt or less
    Supermicro/AbleCom
    Thermaltake Toughpower greater than 600 watt
    Thortech Thunderbolt Plus 800w
    Topower Powerbird 900w
    Xclio StablePower
    XFX Core Edition
    Xigmatek MC
    Xigmatek HC
    Ultra X3
    Ultra X-Pro
    Zalman ZM less than 1000 watt

    Tier 2b - Tier 2 units which have either lower longevity or slightly lower quality output. Still well within spec, and are good units.

    ABS-Tagan ITZ/BZ less than 1000 watt
    Antec VP (350, 450)
    BFG 800 watt
    Cooler Master GX 80 Plus 450W
    Cooler Master Real Power Pro >greater than 800 watt
    Cougar S700
    Hiper Type-M >greater than 650 watt
    Hiper Type-R >greater than 650 watt
    Huntkey Jumper
    Kingwin Lazer Gold
    LEPA B650, B850
    Mushkin Enhanced
    NZXT HALE
    OCZ PowerStream
    OCZ StealthXStream <less than 700 watt (only if manufactured in December 2007 or later)
    Silverstone EF
    Tagan U95
    Tagan U25
    Tagan U15
    Tagan U22
    Topower Powerbird 1100w
    Xclio GreatPower

    Tier 3 Brands - Power supplies fully able to meet ATX specs, although closer to the edges of the limits than higher tier units. Still solid units.

    Acbel Polycom
    Akasa PaxPower
    Akasa PowerPlus (>greater than 500 watt Models)
    AMS Mercury
    Antec Earthwatts >greater than 700 watt
    Antec Basiq
    Antec Phantom
    Antec TruePower III
    Antec TruePower II
    Antec TrueControl II
    Antec NeoPower 480 watt (Old Model)
    Athena Power Space Shuttle Series
    Be Quiet Dark Power Pro
    BFG ES
    BFG LS
    Channel Well
    Cooler Master Real Power Pro <less than 800 watt
    Cooler Master iGreen
    Cooler Master Silent (and gold) Pro
    Corsair CX Series
    Enermax Maximum Plus
    Enermax Noistaker II
    Enermax Noisetaker
    Enermax Whisper II
    Enermax CoolerGiant
    Enhance ENS-G
    Epower Xscale
    Fortron (FSP) GLC
    Fortron (FSP) THN
    Fortron AX
    Fortron HLN
    Fortron PFN/PN/PA
    Kingwin Lazer
    Kingwin Mach 1 (the negative 12v rail may go slightly outside of spec in some loading conditions)
    LEPA G900
    NorthQ
    OCZ ModXStream (rated for 40° C)
    OCZ Z Series 1000W
    Rosewill RP 2 (temperature sensitive)
    Rosewill Xtreme/RX
    Seasonic Super Versatile
    Sigma SP
    Silverstone F
    Sparkle FSP
    Spire Rocketeer V/VI
    Sunbeam Nuuo
    Thermaltake Litepower
    Thermaltake Purepower RX
    Thermaltake Toughpower <less than 600 watt
    Topower 1000w Gold
    XG Magnum
    X-Spice Kira
    Zalman ZM 1000 watt



    Tier 4 - Not Recommend for stressful situations. May not be able to put out full rated power above room temperature, and may slightly fail to meet ATX specs.

    Aerocool
    Asus Atlas
    BFG 1000 watt
    Cooler Master eXtreme (only use 75% of labeled wattage)
    Cooler Master GX (except 450w)
    E-Power
    Futurepower
    Hiper Type-M
    HIPRO
    Masscool
    MGE XG
    Mushkin HP
    NorthQ 4775-500S/BU
    OCZ Modstream (if manufactured before December 2007)
    OCZ GameXStream <1000 watt (if manufactured before December 2007)
    OCZ StealthXStream (if manufactured before December 2007)
    OCZ GameXStream 1010 watt (essentially a 850watt power supply)
    Scythe Kamariki
    Sigma Shark
    Sintek
    TTGI/Superflower
    Ultra Xfinity
    Ultra X2 <less than 700 watt
    Ultra XVS
    Xion Real Power PowerReal

    Tier 5 - Other than the units listed above for any of these brands, NOT RECOMMENDED. Replace ASAP if you have one.

    A-TOP Technology
    Apevia
    APEX (SUPERCASE/ALLIED)
    Aspire(Turbo Case)
    ATADC
    Athena Power
    ATRIX
    Broadway Com Corp
    Coolmax
    Deer
    Diablotek
    Dynapower USA
    Dynex
    EagleTech
    FOXCONN
    FSP Everest
    HEC Orion
    Hiper Type-R
    Huntkey
    I-Star Computer Co. Ltd
    In Win
    JPAC COMPUTER
    Just PC
    Kingwin Inc.
    Linkworld Electronics
    Logisys Computer
    MGE
    MSI
    NMEDIAPC
    Norwood Micro/ CompUSA
    NorthQ
    NZXT
    Okia
    Powmax
    Q-Tec
    Raidmax
    Rocketfish
    Rosewill
    SFC
    Shuttle
    Skyhawk
    Spire Coolers
    Star Micro
    STARTECH
    Thermaltake Purepower NP
    Thermaltake Purepower RU
    Thermaltake TR2 (and TR2-RX)
    TOPOWER TOP
    Ultra X-Connect
    Ultra X2 >greater than 700 watt
    Wintech
    XION
    YoungYear
    Zebronics

    Tier 4 and 5 are some pretty bad power supplies.

    APower has its own level of bad. Here's a review of an APower:

    http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/1391761

    How do I know this and why do I care? Well, in the corner of my closet sitting weeping in a box somewhere is an un-used APower power supply. It was used all of once. Then I read this review, and put it away for good. It won't even make like 400W of its claimed 680W of power.

    Just my thoughts on that, sorry for the long windedness, its just a really bad power supply. If you upgrade your graphics card, be sure to upgrade the power supply.


    Anyway on to the problem at hand. You can use the onboard I believe. But it should just work fine. It might have compatibility issues with a huge monitor being an old card (they didn't have 73" back then).
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