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Complicated (for me) dual monitor setup. Need the experts!

Last response: in Graphics & Displays
September 6, 2012 4:24:15 AM

Hello all.

I am trying to set up my system to use a 19" eMachines "900w" monitor as a secondary to display temps, fan speeds, etc.

I'm having trouble with just about everything. Nothing seems to be going as planned.

Let me post my config so you know what I'm working with (I'm sure it's duplicated in my sig, but better safe than sorry).

MOBO: Asus P8Z68-V Pro/Gen3 (3402 BIOS)
CPU: Intel i5-2500k
COOLER: Cooler Master Hyper 212+
MEMORY: Corsair Vengeance 4GB DDR3 1600 9-9-9-24
VIDEO: VisionTek Radeon HD 4670 1GB PCIe (Catalyst 12.6) using HDMI out to Pioneer A/V
HDD: Seagate Barracuda 1TB SATA 7200rpm/32MB cache
POWER: APower 800w
CASE: Apevia X-Cruiser Black (2x 120mm LED fans, 1x 80mm LED fan)
OS: XP Pro SP3 (32 bit)
A/V: Pioneer VSX-1019AH-K 7.1 960W (cooled with 3x 120mm LED fans)
MONITOR: Mitsubishi 73" DLP @ 1920x1080
LIGHTING: 1x Blue cold cathode tube
ETC: Logitech G15 gaming keyboard (I play in the dark a lot)
TEMPS: CPU 19c idle, MOBO 29c idle

Neither DVI nor VGA have worked well (DVI sort of works, but I can't change the res, have no real control, etc).

The 4670 is driving my primary with HDMI, but no matter which cable I choose, whether I use AMD's Catalyst or just right-click and do simple Windows properties, I can't get anything to work as I'd like.

I sometimes lose my primary display (the big one), sometimes the secondary just goes to standby, and sometimes I just sit in the corner and cry.

My goal: continue using my 73" as my primary, have the 19" showing Speedfan, Asus AI Suite II, GPU-z, whatever.

What settings do I want to use? What cable do I want to use? Will I have any hair after this is over?

Looking ahead, what monitoring program do you guys recommend? Things like core speeds and voltages are nice to see, but temps worry me the most.

Of note: I sit about 7' away from the 19", so any LARGE and GRAPHICAL displays for temps, fan speeds, etc. are best.

Thanks to everyone for their time and advice.

(PS): I guess I could use the onboard graphics to do this too, couldn't I? My mobo has HDMI, DVI, AND VGA outputs. All are disabled in the BIOS, but if necessary, I can re-enable them.

a c 198 U Graphics card
September 6, 2012 5:01:41 AM


I'm really sorry, but before I address your problem I have to comment on your power supply.

Now there's bad power supplies. Here's the list:

Tier 1 Brands - The Most Powerful And Stable Components On The Market.

Antec Signature
Antec High Current Pro -1200w
Antec HCP Platinum 1kW
Corsair AX
Enermax Galaxy
Enermax Revolution
Kingwin Lazer Platinum
PCP&C TurboCool
PCP&C Silencer Greater than 610 watt
Sapphire Pure
Seasonic X-Series
Seasonic S12D/M12D
Silverstone ZF (Etasis 85/75/56)
Seventeam ST Greater than 600w (SSI, V2.91)
Silverstone OP/DA Greater than 700 watt
Silverstone ZM
Ultra X3 Greater than 1000 watt
XFX Black Edition
XFX XXX Edition
Zippy/Emacs SSL
Zippy/Emacs GSM
Zippy/Emacs PSL
Zippy/Emacs HG2
Zippy/Emacs HP2

Tier 2 Brands - Top Quality components With Top Notch Stability - For Those With Price/Availability Issues With Tier 1

Antec Neo HE
Antec High Current Gamer Series
Antec EarthWatts greater than 700 watt
Antec TruePower Trio
Antec TruePower Quattro
Antec TruePower New -- 750w
Akasa PowerGreen 80+
CoolMax CTG-750 watt/850 watt/1000 watt
Cooler Master Ultimate/UCP
Cooltek CT
Corsair GS600 / GS800
Corsair HX
Corsair TX
Corsair VX
Cougar SX700 and GX700
Enermax Liberty
Enermax Infiniti
Enermax MaxRevo 1350
Enermax MODU82+
Enermax Platimax (600, 750, 850, 1.2K)
Enermax PRO82+
Enermax PRO87+ (500w + 700w)
Enhance ENP-GH
Fortron (FSP) GLN
iStarUSA PD2
iStarUSA PD3
OCZ EliteXStream
OCZ Fatal1ty
OCZ GameXStream less than 1000 watt (only if manufactured in December 2007 or later)
OCZ StealthXStream 400 watt
OCZ StealthXStream 2 greater than 700 watt
OCZ Modstream (only if manufactured in December 2007 or later)
OCZ EvoStream
OCZ ProXStream
OCZ Z(t)(s) Series Less than 1000W
OCZ ZX 850w
PC P&C Silencer less than 610 watt
PC P&C Silencer MkII
Rosewill Capstone (450, 750)
Rosewill Hive (550, 650)
Seasonic S12
Seasonic M12
Seasonic Energy Plus
Sentey Golden Steel Power 850w
SevenTeam ST less than 600 watt
Silverstone OP/DA 700 watt or less
Thermaltake Toughpower greater than 600 watt
Thortech Thunderbolt Plus 800w
Topower Powerbird 900w
Xclio StablePower
XFX Core Edition
Xigmatek MC
Xigmatek HC
Ultra X3
Ultra X-Pro
Zalman ZM less than 1000 watt

Tier 2b - Tier 2 units which have either lower longevity or slightly lower quality output. Still well within spec, and are good units.

ABS-Tagan ITZ/BZ less than 1000 watt
Antec VP (350, 450)
BFG 800 watt
Cooler Master GX 80 Plus 450W
Cooler Master Real Power Pro >greater than 800 watt
Cougar S700
Hiper Type-M >greater than 650 watt
Hiper Type-R >greater than 650 watt
Huntkey Jumper
Kingwin Lazer Gold
LEPA B650, B850
Mushkin Enhanced
OCZ PowerStream
OCZ StealthXStream <less than 700 watt (only if manufactured in December 2007 or later)
Silverstone EF
Tagan U95
Tagan U25
Tagan U15
Tagan U22
Topower Powerbird 1100w
Xclio GreatPower

Tier 3 Brands - Power supplies fully able to meet ATX specs, although closer to the edges of the limits than higher tier units. Still solid units.

Acbel Polycom
Akasa PaxPower
Akasa PowerPlus (>greater than 500 watt Models)
AMS Mercury
Antec Earthwatts >greater than 700 watt
Antec Basiq
Antec Phantom
Antec TruePower III
Antec TruePower II
Antec TrueControl II
Antec NeoPower 480 watt (Old Model)
Athena Power Space Shuttle Series
Be Quiet Dark Power Pro
Channel Well
Cooler Master Real Power Pro <less than 800 watt
Cooler Master iGreen
Cooler Master Silent (and gold) Pro
Corsair CX Series
Enermax Maximum Plus
Enermax Noistaker II
Enermax Noisetaker
Enermax Whisper II
Enermax CoolerGiant
Enhance ENS-G
Epower Xscale
Fortron (FSP) GLC
Fortron (FSP) THN
Fortron AX
Fortron HLN
Fortron PFN/PN/PA
Kingwin Lazer
Kingwin Mach 1 (the negative 12v rail may go slightly outside of spec in some loading conditions)
OCZ ModXStream (rated for 40° C)
OCZ Z Series 1000W
Rosewill RP 2 (temperature sensitive)
Rosewill Xtreme/RX
Seasonic Super Versatile
Sigma SP
Silverstone F
Sparkle FSP
Spire Rocketeer V/VI
Sunbeam Nuuo
Thermaltake Litepower
Thermaltake Purepower RX
Thermaltake Toughpower <less than 600 watt
Topower 1000w Gold
XG Magnum
X-Spice Kira
Zalman ZM 1000 watt

Tier 4 - Not Recommend for stressful situations. May not be able to put out full rated power above room temperature, and may slightly fail to meet ATX specs.

Asus Atlas
BFG 1000 watt
Cooler Master eXtreme (only use 75% of labeled wattage)
Cooler Master GX (except 450w)
Hiper Type-M
Mushkin HP
NorthQ 4775-500S/BU
OCZ Modstream (if manufactured before December 2007)
OCZ GameXStream <1000 watt (if manufactured before December 2007)
OCZ StealthXStream (if manufactured before December 2007)
OCZ GameXStream 1010 watt (essentially a 850watt power supply)
Scythe Kamariki
Sigma Shark
Ultra Xfinity
Ultra X2 <less than 700 watt
Ultra XVS
Xion Real Power PowerReal

Tier 5 - Other than the units listed above for any of these brands, NOT RECOMMENDED. Replace ASAP if you have one.

A-TOP Technology
Aspire(Turbo Case)
Athena Power
Broadway Com Corp
Dynapower USA
FSP Everest
HEC Orion
Hiper Type-R
I-Star Computer Co. Ltd
In Win
Just PC
Kingwin Inc.
Linkworld Electronics
Logisys Computer
Norwood Micro/ CompUSA
Spire Coolers
Star Micro
Thermaltake Purepower NP
Thermaltake Purepower RU
Thermaltake TR2 (and TR2-RX)
Ultra X-Connect
Ultra X2 >greater than 700 watt

Tier 4 and 5 are some pretty bad power supplies.

APower has its own level of bad. Here's a review of an APower:

How do I know this and why do I care? Well, in the corner of my closet sitting weeping in a box somewhere is an un-used APower power supply. It was used all of once. Then I read this review, and put it away for good. It won't even make like 400W of its claimed 680W of power.

Just my thoughts on that, sorry for the long windedness, its just a really bad power supply. If you upgrade your graphics card, be sure to upgrade the power supply.

Anyway on to the problem at hand. You can use the onboard I believe. But it should just work fine. It might have compatibility issues with a huge monitor being an old card (they didn't have 73" back then).