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Only 4 mobo screws, will it be secure enough??

I'm installing a build, case just came with 4 mobo standoff screws, a crapload of long screws and two other screws, one with a finer thread than the other( and both shorter than the mobo screws, cant use those on standoffs, too short too screw in). Ill be using the 4 screws at t he 4 angles of the mobo, but will that be enough, should I go get more?
the case is a Corsair Carbide 500R.
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  1. I am shocked that a Corsair case only came with 4.

    Are you using a fullsize ATX? If you could dig one more out of somewhere and put it in the middle, that would be very ideal.
  2. Deemo13 said:
    I am shocked that a Corsair case only came with 4.

    Are you using a fullsize ATX? If you could dig one more out of somewhere and put it in the middle, that would be very ideal.

    only 4 yes, if I can't find any generic screws somewhere, will it be fine until i pick up a pair ?
  3. I always just use whatever screws I have(hard drive screws should work on most standoffs, some need the ODD screws) you should have some kicking around(if not I am sure any computer shop should have some to spare).

    The only time 4 screws is a good idea is mITX boards :)

    Without proper support the board may try to warp and you don't want that.
    You may want to go as far as to contact the store you ordered the case from or Corsair to see what is up with that.
  4. Oh wait, now I am lost. Do you have all the risers?
  5. nukemaster said:
    I always just use whatever screws I have(hard drive screws should work on most standoffs, some need the ODD screws) you should have some kicking around(if not I am sure any computer shop should have some to spare).

    The only time 4 screws is a good idea is mITX boards :)

    Without proper support the board may try to warp and you don't want that.
    You may want to go as far as to contact the store you ordered the case from or Corsair to see what is up with that.


    Deemo13 said:
    Oh wait, now I am lost. Do you have all the risers?

    yes, all 9 standoffs are pre-installed, i just have 4 screws, can't find anything anywhere. What should I do? finish installing the 4 screws and wait till monday to pick up some more? let's hope not :(
    EDIT: One of the other two short screws( flathead,same thread as mobo screws) works, am I fine with these or will the mobo warp with short and long screws?
  6. As long as they hold the board to the standoffs(do not over tighten) they are working find. the standoff has threading to take a screw up to a certain length as long as it does not bottom out in the standoff things are perfectly fine.
  7. Read the manual. It tells you whats what. The case only comes with 4 types of screws. The 4 you are talking about are the PSU screws, hence why there are four. The flat head screws with the same thread are the motherboard screws.

    Now if you only got one of those that would be a problem
  8. Well, I usually just use whatever on my builds lol.
  9. oh god, just noticed while installing wifi module that the pins at the bottom of the motherboard got ruined, they are not straight anymore, did I screw up? should I straighten them out?
  10. You're probably fine. If it still boots and posts, you are fine.
  11. heizenbrg said:
    oh god, just noticed while installing wifi module that the pins at the bottom of the motherboard got ruined, they are not straight anymore, did I screw up? should I straighten them out?

    They can be that way. As long as they are not touching one another don't mess with it.

    Picture by any chance?
  12. Deemo13 said:
    Well, I usually just use whatever on my builds lol.


    Same. Just saying if he's got 4 "motherboard" screws and a dozen "what on earth are these" screws that fit, Viola. The corsair screws.actually look nicer, not that it matters,lol
  13. just finished build, is it normal for psu to do buzzing sound? fan controller and front panel 3.0 don't work also
    it's an hx850 corsair. also, on the right hand side of my new screen there seems to be these white sshaped snow crystals, don't tell me thats screen bleeding?
  14. Buzzing can happen, but it depends on your hardware(mostly the video card).

    My HX 850 is very quiet.

    Did you connect the fan controller to power and the fans to that controller? May have to re check the wires. It is just for the case fans as far as I know and not others.

    Front USB 3.0 requires either a 20-pin board header or a USB 2 -> USB 3 adapter(many cases come with it 10pin[9] -> 20 pin[19]). USB 3(from the 20-pin) does not always work in the bios, bu should work once in windows with the drivers installed.
  15. nukemaster said:
    Buzzing can happen, but it depends on your hardware(mostly the video card).

    My HX 850 is very quiet.

    Did you connect the fan controller to power and the fans to that controller? May have to re check the wires. It is just for the case fans as far as I know and not others.

    Front USB 3.0 requires either a 20-pin board header or a USB 2 -> USB 3 adapter(many cases come with it 10pin[9] -> 20 pin[19]). USB 3(from the 20-pin) does not always work in the bios, bu should work once in windows with the drivers installed.

    the video card is a gigabyte gtx 670, my previous psu didnt buzz either, pretty loud , I can hear it over the fans. The gpu did come with a Molex to 6pin q Molex to 8pin, but I just used 2 pci-e power cables(1 6pin & 1 8pin), to avoid using another Molex to power cable.The case came with a y- split cable already connected to the front panel fans, and probably connecting with the controller. To connect the side fan, a female 3pin came together with the front panel cables. A Molex plug which I'm guessing gives power to the controller had male and female on both sides, so I attached the male to the female of the psu ( I only have female molex on psu). so the fans turn on, leds work, but they don't change speed. Haven't installed windows yet, maybe it's because of that. its pointless anyways because the 4th fan, the back exhaust, I had to connect to the mobo because there aren't enough cables for the controller! can youeven run 3 fans to controller and 1 to the mobo?
    The case does come with a 3.0to 2.0 adapter, but I the thought it was to be used to convert the front panels to 2.0. I attached them to a 20 pin on the mobo. cable management is pretty confusing, at least of the first time...
  16. The fan speed controller should be independent of the operating system and should work. That is strange.

    Now the buzzing, I would get into windows and see if it still does it. Last time I had buzzing was a 4870 card(The 8800GTX did some too). It would buzz and the sound even got into the power supply(strange I know). I tried another power supply and the same thing happened. My 5870 never did any of that. I do not think the buzzing causes damage, it is just a result of the fast switching that computer power supplies do and how that interacts with the coils that filter the power.

    If it is real bad, you may be able to try some things in windows to quiet it down if not, You may have to see if it can be RMAed.

    The 20-pin on the board is fine. See if it works in Windows once you get the drivers installed. The adapter is to make the front panel USB2. that would allow it to work before windows, but yeah, it would be 2.0 only. Some boards do have USB3 ports that work in the bios and others do not.

    Overall I know it can be a pain to get new hardware all setup and run into little things that do not work right or annoy you. Welcome to DIY.
  17. nukemaster said:
    The fan speed controller should be independent of the operating system and should work. That is strange.

    Now the buzzing, I would get into windows and see if it still does it. Last time I had buzzing was a 4870 card(The 8800GTX did some too). It would buzz and the sound even got into the power supply(strange I know). I tried another power supply and the same thing happened. My 5870 never did any of that. I do not think the buzzing causes damage, it is just a result of the fast switching that computer power supplies do and how that interacts with the coils that filter the power.

    If it is real bad, you may be able to try some things in windows to quiet it down if not, You may have to see if it can be RMAed.

    The 20-pin on the board is fine. See if it works in Windows once you get the drivers installed. The adapter is to make the front panel USB2. that would allow it to work before windows, but yeah, it would be 2.0 only. Some boards do have USB3 ports that work in the bios and others do not.

    Overall I know it can be a pain to get new hardware all setup and run into little things that do not work right or annoy you. Welcome to DIY.

    What if I just plug all the fans in the mobo, heard the ccarbide 500r's fan controller isn't too good anyways. I'll try using th Molex power cables that came with the gpu. It has 3 windforce fans , could be that. Oh and I did screw up my 30 day return, I'm well past that....
  18. Even if past the 30 day, you normally have a warranty with the company that makes the parts. For instance, The HX850 has a 7 year warranty if I remember right.

    The molex adapters will not chance the outcome(or at least should not). They are just a left over from the time when power supplies lacked the required 6 and 8 pin connectors for video cards. I am honestly surprised they still give them out.

    You can connect fans to the board, You will have to look as see how they connect to the controller because the LED's must connect another way so they can be switched on and off.
  19. nukemaster said:
    Even if past the 30 day, you normally have a warranty with the company that makes the parts. For instance, The HX850 has a 7 year warranty if I remember right.

    The molex adapters will not chance the outcome(or at least should not). They are just a left over from the time when power supplies lacked the required 6 and 8 pin connectors for video cards. I am honestly surprised they still give them out.

    You can connect fans to the board, You will have to look as see how they connect to the controller because the LED's must connect another way so they can be switched on and off.

    the led switch must be connected to the fan controller already, which in turn connects to the front fans. To connect the 3rd fan to the led im guessing it's the female 3pin. If all fails I'll try to unscrew the front panel and see what's up, or just connect everything to the mobo and be done with it. Is it okay to stack unused parts of cables in the hdd cages? air should go through anyways.
    UPDATE: psu does not buzz anymore, monitor does not have screen tear, only problem that remains is this fan controller, I cannot seem to trace the right cables, leds switch on an off, but speed does not change.
  20. very strange. I know its a pain, but I would get into the system to see what I can find.

    In my systems, the board controls the fans(or i get fans quiet enough to not need control :) ).

    The cables will not hurt anything sitting in the hard drive bays.
  21. nukemaster said:
    very strange. I know its a pain, but I would get into the system to see what I can find.

    In my systems, the board controls the fans(or i get fans quiet enough to not need control :) ).

    The cables will not hurt anything sitting in the hard drive bays.

    What if the fan controller is broken? I can't RMA it, I'll have to check with corsair.
  22. most times they will just send you a new one. I have not had to RMA anything to corsair EVER. Other case makers seen to just send you the needed part and call it a day.
  23. nukemaster said:
    most times they will just send you a new one. I have not had to RMA anything to corsair EVER. Other case makers seen to just send you the needed part and call it a day.

    ok, fan controller actually works, checked the cables. The psu buzzing sound is pretty loud, corsair says to try the paperclip method to see if there is anything wrong. Went into the Bios and my temps are CPU:80F/27C MB:25C/77F cpu fan speed: 1200RPM back exhaust fan jumps from 890RPM to 1700RPM when I switch the fans to low, is that normal? When installing windows the computer restarted, then turn off while booting, twice. Is something wrong? Also I did not plug in a speaker, mobo didn't come with one, do you buy those separately?
  24. It seems like the switch is backwards or something if a switch to low makes fans go faster. Better then no control I guess.

    When windows restarted, did you get any blue screen message?

    The paperclip(powered off and unplugged then paper clip in ATX connector from GREEN to any BLACK. then plug in the power supply and it should run, but with nothing connected you will just get the fan to turn.) way to start a power supply while it works, places no load on it at all(making it a poor test). Some power supplies will not even run right at no load.
  25. nukemaster said:
    It seems like the switch is backwards or something if a switch to low makes fans go faster. Better then no control I guess.

    When windows restarted, did you get any blue screen message?

    The paperclip(powered off and unplugged then paper clip in ATX connector from GREEN to any BLACK. then plug in the power supply and it should run, but with nothing connected you will just get the fan to turn.) way to start a power supply while it works, places no load on it at all(making it a poor test). Some power supplies will not even run right at no load.

    what do you mean the switch is backwards? isn't it doing what it is supposed to do, change speed when changing the switch? So I should just get a replacement for the psu? it is very loud.
  26. I mean if for some reason the case is labeled wrong(or the switch is upside down, not even sure that can happen) so the high is low and low is high.

    As far as the power supply goes, If it is that bad then yes.

    Some times a power supply will be louder at very load loads(I have seen this with a very low powered system), but I do not think your are THAT low of a load. I have run down to about 50-60 watts(I know, who the hell runs a 850 watt power supply in a 60 watt system. You know how it is, I like to play with different hardware. My media center idles under 40 watts :) ) without any noise.

    If you DO think it may be a low load thing. You can try to turn off cpu power management in the bios.
  27. nukemaster said:
    I mean if for some reason the case is labeled wrong(or the switch is upside down, not even sure that can happen) so the high is low and low is high.

    As far as the power supply goes, If it is that bad then yes.

    Some times a power supply will be louder at very load loads(I have seen this with a very low powered system), but I do not think your are THAT low of a load. I have run down to about 50-60 watts(I know, who the hell runs a 850 watt power supply in a 60 watt system. You know how it is, I like to play with different hardware. My media center idles under 40 watts :) ) without any noise.

    If you DO think it may be a low load thing. You can try to turn off cpu power management in the bios.

    so it's not normal that a fan switch functions that way? what program do you use to monitor watt use?
    anyways this seems like a successful build, am running prime95, furmark, gpu stays in the 70C when I run both prime and furmark, cpuz indicates that my cpu is below 30C. Do you know of any other ways of monitoring cpu? 10 hours of prime95 should give me all the errors I want. All that remains is rma'ing the psu. I got lucky with all the parts working, considering I've had them well past a month :)
    What is the deal with asus warranty? They won't give me warranty on the mobo because 30 days have passed? Isn't that ridiculous?
  28. Asus has a warranty for most parts. I think video cards and motherboards are 3 years.

    As long as you know that the switch works slightly backwards, it should not be an issue.

    I use this to monitor temps. Its from the cpuid.
    http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html
  29. nukemaster said:
    Asus has a warranty for most parts. I think video cards and motherboards are 3 years.

    As long as you know that the switch works slightly backwards, it should not be an issue.

    I use this to monitor temps. Its from the cpuid.
    http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor.html

    yes I just installed that last night. It might be pretty straightforward to you, but how do you evaluate temps? what's too much? and what can you tell by looking at fan rpm increase? My back exhaust went from 890 to 1700rpm when I switched the other intakes to a lower setting. I'm considering to add a top exhaust fan and removing the middle140mm noctua fan and putting it at a top, so then I'll have air coming in from the front and exiting in the back, and with the cpu fan mounted perpendicularly to the other fan, like an L shape.
    I was also considering re-applying thermal paste, I think I did a pretty good job with it, I applied it, put the noctua on, removed it to check how it looked , it spread out evenly, but since I didn't apply it exactly in the center it's a little off.
  30. Ok. I need full specs.

    Also if you have the NH-D14(Noctua) cooler leave the 140mm in the center. It does almost all the work on that heatsink. I ran JUST that fan for a long time.

    70c(worry at 90+) is fine for a GPU and CPUs are good up to at least 60-70(80-90 for some) for most as well.
  31. nukemaster said:
    Ok. I need full specs.

    Also if you have the NH-D14(Noctua) cooler leave the 140mm in the center. It does almost all the work on that heatsink. I ran JUST that fan for a long time.

    70c(worry at 90+) is fine for a GPU and CPUs are good up to at least 60-70(80-90 for some) for most as well.

    Here are specs:
    Noctua NH-D14
    G.SKILL Sniper Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 (PC3 14900)
    ASUS P8Z77-V PRO
    Intel Core i5-3570K
    Western Digital 2TB Caviar Green WD20EARX
    Gigabyte Geforce GTX 670 OC
    Corsair Carbide 500R

    Also, I can't see the hard drive under windows, It's SATA 6.0Gb/s but I plugged in SATA 3.0, shouldn't it work anyways?
    There is also something else that needs to be plugged in, other than the power and data cables. I just plugged in those two though, not sure if maybe that could be the cause of it.
  32. When you say you do not see it, It is not in my computer or it is not in disk management(Start -> search -> diskmgmt.msc)?

    You are using the light blue SATA 3gigabit/sec ports right?

    You can always try it on the 6gigabit ports to see if it works. If it does, They should have a jumper on the drive to force the drive into SATA 6gigabit/sec mode(then move it back to light blue).

    http://wdc.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/search/1/a_id/1679#jumper

    I guess this has been an interesting build so far huh?

    You will get it all sorted.
  33. nukemaster said:
    When you say you do not see it, It is not in my computer or it is not in disk management(Start -> search -> diskmgmt.msc)?

    You are using the light blue SATA 3gigabit/sec ports right?

    You can always try it on the 6gigabit ports to see if it works. If it does, They should have a jumper on the drive to force the drive into SATA 6gigabit/sec mode(then move it back to light blue).

    http://wdc.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/search/1/a_id/1679#jumper

    I guess this has been an interesting build so far huh?

    You will get it all sorted.

    I agree, and thanks for all the help, these forums are great, there is always someone ready to help, it takes less to get answers from Tom's forums than going through customer service!
    Anyways, the psu is very weird, sometimes doesn't buzz, varies by day. I got the rma, should I go through the trouble of RMAing it anyways?
    I changed the sata.cable to 6.0. but the hdd still won't get read by diskmgmt. could it be dOA?
  34. things(defects) happen.

    Can you hear it spin up at least? Try another SATA cable. I assume the bios also shows nothing when the drive is connected.

    The power supply buzz may very well be with different loading(Do you heat any buzzing coming from any other parts of the system(video card or near the cpu socket.)?. It is strange, but as I have said, it can happen. You may have a limited time from getting an RAM number to sending it.

    It would help allot of you have a second system(maybe a friends system) to test parts on.
  35. nukemaster said:
    things(defects) happen.

    Can you hear it spin up at least? Try another SATA cable. I assume the bios also shows nothing when the drive is connected.

    The power supply buzz may very well be with different loading(Do you heat any buzzing coming from any other parts of the system(video card or near the cpu socket.)?. It is strange, but as I have said, it can happen. You may have a limited time from getting an RAM number to sending it.

    It would help allot of you have a second system(maybe a friends system) to test parts on.

    no I don't have anyone to test the system on.
    no I done hear any buzzing coming from other parts. cpu is great, going at 20c at startup. Also the hardrive is read by the bios, so why isn't it showing up?
  36. Please check the device manager to see if it shows up. Also make sure you have the latest chipset drives installed(Avoid the DARK blue ports for now).
  37. nukemaster said:
    Please check the device manager to see if it shows up. Also make sure you have the latest chipset drives installed(Avoid the DARK blue ports for now).

    I'm installing all the windows update right now, maybe that should do it. The sata for the hdd is in the light blue 6gbs port.
    The drive does show up in intel rapid storage tecnology, I just can't seem to access it.
  38. Have you initialized it yet? When a drive is new, it is un-formatted and can not be seen in my computer until it is formatted and given a drive letter.

    Should have had the option in disk management.
  39. nukemaster said:
    Have you initialized it yet? When a drive is new, it is un-formatted and can not be seen in my computer until it is formatted and given a drive letter.

    Should have had the option in disk management.

    it says the drive is unallocated, I'm trying to initialize it like diskmanagement says, but I cannot find the option.
  40. Do you have the option new partition(maybe it was already initialized.)?


    EDIT.
    I have a link for you :)

    http://dashboardhelp.datarobotics.com/170/en/win/formatting_drives_using_windows_disk_management_utility_help.htm
  41. nukemaster said:
    Do you have the option new partition(maybe it was already initialized.)?


    EDIT.
    I have a link for you :)

    http://dashboardhelp.datarobotics.com/170/en/win/formatting_drives_using_windows_disk_management_utility_help.htm

    Great, I got it to work. It was actually initialized, I just had to create a volume. Only thing that remains is this psu, sometimes it starts to buzz then it stops. Better send it in, thanks for the help man ;)
  42. Best answer
    Yup sounds like a plan.
  43. Best answer selected by heizenbrg.
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