Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (More info?)
Hi All,
Just wanted to update the group. Many months ago I was able to successfully
use use a bulb blower to clean most of the dust of my sensor. Unfortunately,
there were two very small dark specs left.
I am not a clumsy person is an means, and I took my time. I did this for
about 20 iterations and all that happened was that the sensor would be
almost clean one round and then the next it would have 30 spots, then 3,
then 20, then 5 etc. In the end I just stopped with about 3-4 spots and used
my trusty blower. I seriously did 20+ iterations.
My experience has shown me that the blower is the most effective, easiest
and safe method. I hope that I have not damaged my sensor in any way
(atleast I see no signs of damage).
Strangely, I am now seeing a thread on dpreview forums, where people are
talking about using Scoth 811 tape!! Anyone used this?
Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (More info?)
"Musty" <musty@nospam.net> writes:
> Hi All,
>
> Just wanted to update the group. Many months ago I was able to successfully
> use use a bulb blower to clean most of the dust of my sensor. Unfortunately,
> there were two very small dark specs left.
>
> I decided to order the copperhill equipment:
> http://www.pbase.com/copperhill/ccd_cleaning >
> I am not a clumsy person is an means, and I took my time. I did this for
> about 20 iterations and all that happened was that the sensor would be
> almost clean one round and then the next it would have 30 spots, then 3,
> then 20, then 5 etc. In the end I just stopped with about 3-4 spots and used
> my trusty blower. I seriously did 20+ iterations.
>
> My experience has shown me that the blower is the most effective, easiest
> and safe method. I hope that I have not damaged my sensor in any way
> (atleast I see no signs of damage).
I tried blowing first, and never accomplished anything but moving the
dust around on the sensor. So I went to swabs and Eclipse, using
basically the copperhill technique. I once had to clean twice, when I
somehow created a big blotch, but that was my very first time. I've
never had to clean twice since then.
However, I'm not expecting *zero* spots, either. Just like I never
got *zero* spots on film negatives.
> Strangely, I am now seeing a thread on dpreview forums, where people are
> talking about using Scoth 811 tape!! Anyone used this?
Not on the sensor, no. I used Scotch tape to clean the window on my
finger print sensor, though. It was the only way they recommended.
--
David Dyer-Bennet, <mailtod-b@dd-b.net>, <http://www.dd-b.net/dd-b/>
RKBA: <http://noguns-nomoney.com/> <http://www.dd-b.net/carry/>
Pics: <http://dd-b.lighthunters.net/> <http://www.dd-b.net/dd-b/SnapshotAlbum/>
Dragaera/Steven Brust: <http://dragaera.info/>
Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (More info?)
Musty wrote:
> I seriously did 20+ iterations.
Foolish.
> My experience has shown me that the blower is the most effective,
easiest
> and safe method.
My experience is that "the blower" is completely ineffective.
Your experience is that of someone who just plodded on in the face of
ignorance. You should have wondered what you were doing wrong, or
reconsidered your goal, after about 3 tries. Honest to Bob:
clean-freakishness is generally a really bad thing re: optics.
> I hope that I have not damaged my sensor in any way
> (atleast I see no signs of damage).
Fortunately for you, short of a chisel or similar, hurting the sensor
isn't easy. Twenty times though...
> Strangely, I am now seeing a thread on dpreview forums, where people
are
> talking about using Scoth 811 tape!! Anyone used this?
If I said I use a #3 blasting cap, would you believe me?
How to clean and resurface the 200" mirror at Palomar:
One needs an extremely clean surface for the aluminum to precipitate
evenly and firmly. The original technique -- due to Strong (see
Richard Preston's "First Light" ) -- was to smear the mirror with some
kind of hair tonic (if I remember right) and proceed to barbeque. When
the tonic evaporates, it takes the crud with it; aluminum is then
vapourized and 'sticks'.
Nowadays things are done by the book, established by committee and
subject to majority vote.
Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (More info?)
<eawckyegcy@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1115257952.423878.83490@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
> Musty wrote:
>
> > I seriously did 20+ iterations.
>
> Foolish.
>
Yes I agree, although no damage is done by this foolishness. I think I was
just getting pissed off that the darn thing would leave a spot or two on
each iteration and I would not give up. Having said that, I think part of
the problem is that the sensor is charged when the camera is on (attracting
dust) and for each iteration I went outside and shot the sky (to check the
results). I think its actually very difficult to do any damage to the sensor
after having done it. After using the blower, there is only 1 spot left. I
think the swab method is not that great since it moves dust from the edges
to the center of the sensor, but I will try it again (I have become quite an
expert in wrapping a pec-pad around the sensor-swipe).
If canon come out with a self cleaning camera, the 20D will be Ebayed
immediately.
Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (More info?)
Musty <musty@nospam.net> wrote:
> I think part of the problem is that the sensor is charged when the
> camera is on (attracting dust) and for each iteration I went outside
> and shot the sky (to check the results).
No: the sensor is only charged to a few volts, but dust-sttracting
static voltages are in the kilovolt range.
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