Ok, for several months I have been using my Hauppauge WinTV HVR 2250 to watch TV (from Comcast) on my computer, with no STB, so I get channels 1-35ish, which is no problem, as 90% of what i watch falls in that range. Recently, Comcast "upgraded" their broadcast to all digital (or something like that), and now 95% of what I record doesn't come it. Ok, so I have a STB from Comcast laying around (a DC50X), so I run the cable through that, and it all seems to work fine, except WMC can't change channels (because of no IR blasters). I decided I wanted to make my own IR blasters, because I am not going to pay $10-$30 for a plug, some wire, and a LED (all of which cost, oh, about $.30).
Here is where I start to run into problems, I can't find any actual schematics online (for voltage or polarity). Eventually I find reference to 3.3V, and the tip of the plug being positive. I decided to go a tad overboard here, I built an in-line amp circuit, using a wallwort for power, anywho, I connected positive to the tip, and negative to both of the other rings (using a 2.5mm audio plug). When I plug it all in, and start configuring WMC for a STB, I get part way through, and it says "IR hardware not detected", dang!
Upon inspecting the manual for the card, it appears that the "IR" port also supports IR in. I am wondering, is one of the rings supposed to go to an IR detector, and the setup is analog, or is it using digital communication? Or, is there some hidden standard, that to detect it, it needs to be X ohms?
I know I could go out and buy a MCE remote with IR communication, but if I don't have to spend $30 or more, that would be awesome.
Up front, I'll apologize since this is almost certainly NOT the answer that you would like.
My take on this type of thing is how much is your time worth?
I also like to tinker with electronics, but for this, I think I would just buy the blaster even if it is $30 because the time that I would spend trying to figure this out is almost certainly going to be more than $30 worth of my time.
Thank you for your response!
If it was just time needed to get it to work, I wouldn't mind, but I simply lack the specific knowledge to get it to work, and I can't seem to find it on the internet.
So it looks like I will have to buy one.
My next question is, does anyone know an USB IR control (in and out) kit? I remember running across one once, but can't seem to find it again.