Negative film to digital

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (More info?)

I have successtully digitalized appr. 500 color slides using a Soligor dia
duplicator on my D70s. After some experimenting it worked fine, and the
whole process took about 5-10 hours. I use an old Braun F300 flash and that
works great. And the quality came out much better than I expected! Actually
the colors look very good, and the slides need very little adjustment.

Now I'll move over to the color negatives, mostly Kodacolor, and some Fuji.
I tried to just invert the image (Photoshop 9 CS2) and it worked, but the
colors don't look good. I have tried some filters in CS2, but nothing has
really worked. Have you guys tried this, or do you have any suggestions?

Aaron

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (More info?)

Aaron Blacksmith wrote:

> I have successtully digitalized appr. 500 color slides using a Soligor dia
> duplicator on my D70s. After some experimenting it worked fine, and the
> whole process took about 5-10 hours. I use an old Braun F300 flash and that
> works great. And the quality came out much better than I expected! Actually
> the colors look very good, and the slides need very little adjustment.
>
> Now I'll move over to the color negatives, mostly Kodacolor, and some Fuji.
> I tried to just invert the image (Photoshop 9 CS2) and it worked, but the
> colors don't look good. I have tried some filters in CS2, but nothing has
> really worked. Have you guys tried this, or do you have any suggestions?

The basic problem is the orange mask of color negatives which will tend
to blue when inverted. Try desaturating the orange (in PS) before
inverting the colors ... though I've no idea if the other negative
colors are shifted on the negative as well. Anyone?

Cheers,
Alan

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Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (More info?)

You could try working only on RAW files, but even then I think you will
be pushing uphill.

Film scanners calibrate themselves first on the masking color and then
'subtract' it prior/during the scan (don't ask me exactly how..). That
way all the color channels are relatively equally balanced and have
plenty of information spread across all 255 values per channel..

If you do not do that, your image will have such an incredibly low
amount of cyan/blue/purple data squashed into the low end of the scale,
that when you try to expand it out again, all you will get is
horrifying posterisation. I think you will need them scanned on a film
scanner, but would be interested to hear from anyone who has managed to
successfully do it, and delighted to be proved wrong!

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (More info?)

In article <1117153743.370961.5630@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>,
Chrlz <chrlz@go.com> wrote:
>You could try working only on RAW files, but even then I think you will
>be pushing uphill.
>
>Film scanners calibrate themselves first on the masking color and then
>'subtract' it prior/during the scan (don't ask me exactly how..). That
>way all the color channels are relatively equally balanced and have
>plenty of information spread across all 255 values per channel..
>
>If you do not do that, your image will have such an incredibly low
>amount of cyan/blue/purple data squashed into the low end of the scale,
>that when you try to expand it out again, all you will get is
>horrifying posterisation. I think you will need them scanned on a film
>scanner, but would be interested to hear from anyone who has managed to
>successfully do it, and delighted to be proved wrong!

I think that filtering the light from the flash used for the
exposure to remove the orange mask would result in pretty good exposured
in the digital realm. Get a set of the geletain filters used in color
printing, and build a holder to go between the flash and the negative --
ideally far enough from the negative so there is no chance of a dust
particle on the filters being in focus.

I am interested in the Soligar device which you used for the
slides. Could you please post a link to it?

Good Luck and Thanks,
DoN.
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[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (More info?)

"Alan Browne" <alan.browne@freelunchVideotron.ca> wrote in message
news:d757jo$sp7$2@inews.gazeta.pl...
SNIP
> The basic problem is the orange mask of color negatives which will
> tend to blue when inverted.

Best results will be achieved by neutralizing the clear film areas,
such as in between frames or the leader of Color Negative films.
Adjusting the color of the lightsource will work best.

> Try desaturating the orange (in PS) before inverting the colors ...

Not so much desaturate, but rather subtract the color from gamma
adjusted images or, even better, divide the orange exposure out of all
other colors in linear gamma.

> though I've no idea if the other negative colors are shifted on the
> negative as well. Anyone?

Yes, the resulting film base color affects all other colors (as you
can visually observe) unless exactly the right amount is removed. Then
invert, and the filmbase will become neutral "black".

Bart

 

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Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (More info?)

Here is one link to a swedish dealer
www.cyberphoto.se/soligor/47898.php

I guess you can find it elsewhere as well.

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (More info?)

Aaron Blacksmith wrote:
>
> I have successtully digitalized appr. 500 color slides using a Soligor dia
> duplicator on my D70s. After some experimenting it worked fine, and the
> whole process took about 5-10 hours. I use an old Braun F300 flash and that
> works great. And the quality came out much better than I expected! Actually
> the colors look very good, and the slides need very little adjustment.
>
> Now I'll move over to the color negatives, mostly Kodacolor, and some Fuji.
> I tried to just invert the image (Photoshop 9 CS2) and it worked, but the
> colors don't look good. I have tried some filters in CS2, but nothing has
> really worked. Have you guys tried this, or do you have any suggestions?
>
> Aaron

Yes, the masking color is the problem. Try inverting the image from
negative to positive, you'll get a very light blue-green image. If you
then use Curves and click auto, you'll get a pretty good result which
you can then do the usual tweaks with.

Colin

 

[Guest]

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (More info?)

In article <NtAle.138591$dP1.487920@newsc.telia.net>,
Aaron Blacksmith <Aaron@___Nospam.com> wrote:
>Here is one link to a swedish dealer
>www.cyberphoto.se/soligor/47898.php

Thanks. That shows me what I am looking for -- and reassures me
that I can put in negative strips as well (with the accessory
mentioned).

>I guess you can find it elsewhere as well.

I hope so. Sweeden may be a very nice place, but is rather
inconvenient for me to purchase from.

Hopefully, vendors who are somewhat closer will be findable,
where i won't have to deal with currency exchanges, and where the import
duties will have been paid by the importer, so there is no hang-up in
customs.

Thanks again,
DoN.

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