Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (
More info?)
In article <1118700538.944346@ftpsrv1>,
Frederick <nomailplease@nomail.com> wrote:
>DoN. Nichols wrote:
>
>> In article <1118698036.493282.256590@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>,
>> Brian <ripcurl187@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>>Thanks for the info! Just to clarify...are you saying that normally
>>>the min focus distance is 35cm for the D70 kit lens @ 70mm but with the
>>>13mm extension tube it is reduced to 3 or 4cm...is that correct?
>>
>>
>> I believe that he means that the kit lens, mounted on the 13mm
>> tube and set to 70mm zoom, will focus between 35 cm (13.7") and
>> somewhere between 3 to 4 cm (1.18" to 1.57").
>>
>Yes - that is correct. Zooming back below 50mm the minimum focus
>distance becomes so close that it is practically unusable - and
>pointless as the magnification ratio is no better than achievable at 70mm.
Which probably explains why my "28-105mm f3.5-4.5 D" Nikon lens
limits the zoom range from 50mm to 105mm when the macro mode is engaged.
>>>By the way, I have never used extension tubes before...
![:) :)]()
Do you know
>>>if there is a ratio or some formula that can indicate what
>>>magnification and focus distance would be attained with different
>>>length tubes?
>>
>>
>> With relatively simple prime lenses (fixed focal length) you
>> should be able to calculate what the effective range would be. But you
>> would need to know just how far the focus adjustment moves the lens.
>> With internal focus lenses, telephotos and wide angle lenses, and
>> especially with zooms, there are too many things going on optically to
>> make it easy to predict the results. The best bet is to grab the lens
>> and the set of extension tubes and experiment. (Or, if you want fewer
>> pieces to juggle, try a bellows instead.) Hmm ... does Nikon offer a
>> bellows with the electrical contacts for the CPU lenses?
>>
>AFAIK, no they don't. But, I the tubes that I have are "marumi" brand,
>and it looks like they could be disassembled and the mounts with
>contacts used to construct "CPU" bellows. Some creative engineering
>would be needed to connect the aperture stop-down lever between the lens
>mount and body mount.
You would also need to add something to the bellows to allow it
to compute the variable aperture loss when the lens is moved out on the
bellows. I think that really, with a bellows, you do need to stick with
a manual mode of operation.
>For the OP, the canon 18-55 kit lens is not IF, and your paragraph above
>explains why a 13mm tube would probbaly give a completely different
>result on that lens. The Canon 18-55, including the so-called "mark II"
>on the 350D is a very special piece of equipment. I was using one the
>other day, and took some very soft shots with a 350d. For photography,
>a body cap is possibly a less expensive and more useful accessory for a
>Canon DSLR owner. ;-)
A spectacular endorsement. :-)
Enjoy,
DoN.
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