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bracket with raw - 350d

Forum Digital Cameras : SLR bracket with raw - 350d

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Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (More info?)

 

Does anyone know if you can bracket exposures when shooting in raw
format? I don't have the camera yet, that's why I'm asking...

Thanks, Brian

Reply to Brian
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In article <1124425286.515581.166930@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com>,
ripcurl187@yahoo.com says...
> Does anyone know if you can bracket exposures when shooting in raw
> format? I don't have the camera yet, that's why I'm asking...
>
> Thanks, Brian

Yes, you can. AEP is enable under the menu, you can set how you want to
bracket there.
--
http://www.pbase.com/bcbaird

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Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (More info?)

 

Brian wrote:

> Does anyone know if you can bracket exposures when shooting in raw
> format? I don't have the camera yet, that's why I'm asking...

Sure. OTOH, get the higlights right and avoid bracketing altogether.

Cheers,
Alan

--
-- r.p.e.35mm user resource: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm
-- r.p.d.slr-systems: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpdslrsysur.htm
-- [SI] gallery & rulz: http://www.pbase.com/shootin
-- e-meil: Remove FreeLunch.

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (More info?)

 

In article <de4hbu$laa$1@inews.gazeta.pl>,
Alan Browne <alan.browne@FreeLunchVideotron.ca> wrote:

> Brian wrote:
>
> > Does anyone know if you can bracket exposures when shooting in raw
> > format? I don't have the camera yet, that's why I'm asking...
>
> Sure. OTOH, get the higlights right and avoid bracketing altogether.

Yes, for digital the rule is "Expose for the highlights and develop for
the shadows".

However, I know this is a digital group I want to point out
misconceptions about film exposure I have see floating around web pages.

For B&W Film you "expose for the shadows and develop for the
highlights". For Color film you "Expose for the highlights and develop
for the shadows".

But sometimes it is an artistic expression to blowout the highlights. As
it is with bracketing.

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Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (More info?)

 

>For B&W Film you "expose for the shadows and develop for the
>highlights". For Color film you "Expose for the highlights and develop
>for the shadows".

Well, not exactly. For color SLIDE you expose for the highlights to
prevent blown out details. For color NEG, you expose for the shadows
or the colors get muddy fast.

Reply to Anonymous
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Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (More info?)

 

Sometimes there's too much dynamic range in a scene to "get the
highlights right and avoid bracketing" - but if it's possible, I would
definately do so in those situations. I was interested because there
are some scenes that -2, 0, and +2 would guarantee that I had enough
range to work with and if it could be done automatically (it can't in
my current camera) that would be great!

Anyway, good to know!

Reply to Brian

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (More info?)

 

In message <de4hbu$laa$1@inews.gazeta.pl>,
Alan Browne <alan.browne@FreeLunchVideotron.ca> wrote:

>Brian wrote:
>
>> Does anyone know if you can bracket exposures when shooting in raw
>> format? I don't have the camera yet, that's why I'm asking...
>
>Sure. OTOH, get the higlights right and avoid bracketing altogether.

.... and bracket to get the highlights right?
--

<>>< ><<> ><<> <>>< ><<> <>>< <>>< ><<>
John P Sheehy <JPS@no.komm>
><<> <>>< <>>< ><<> <>>< ><<> ><<> <>><

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (More info?)

 

In article <1124467151.066131.243420@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com>,
"wilt" <wiltw@aol.com> wrote:

> >For B&W Film you "expose for the shadows and develop for the
> >highlights". For Color film you "Expose for the highlights and develop
> >for the shadows".
>
> Well, not exactly. For color SLIDE you expose for the highlights to
> prevent blown out details. For color NEG, you expose for the shadows
> or the colors get muddy fast.

Yup. Thanks from everyone for the correction.

Regards,
Slide wonk.

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (More info?)

 

kz8rt3 wrote:

> In article <de4hbu$laa$1@inews.gazeta.pl>,
> Alan Browne <alan.browne@FreeLunchVideotron.ca> wrote:
>
>
>>Brian wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Does anyone know if you can bracket exposures when shooting in raw
>>>format? I don't have the camera yet, that's why I'm asking...
>>
>>Sure. OTOH, get the higlights right and avoid bracketing altogether.
>
>
> Yes, for digital the rule is "Expose for the highlights and develop for
> the shadows".
>
> However, I know this is a digital group I want to point out
> misconceptions about film exposure I have see floating around web pages.
>
> For B&W Film you "expose for the shadows and develop for the
> highlights". For Color film you "Expose for the highlights and develop
> for the shadows".
>
> But sometimes it is an artistic expression to blowout the highlights. As
> it is with bracketing.

Well, it's actually:

for reversal (slide) film: expose for the highlights.
for negative film: expose for the shaddows.
for B&W as you say above.

for digital, it's like slide film except that most cameras don't have
much highlight room above mid tone. For my Maxxum 7D it's about 1.3 to
1.7 stops (I still haven't settled on a rule because it's so east to
chimp out any blown highlights ... perhaps to exageration).

What I haven't yet calibrated is the mapping from my Maxxum 7D to my
Maxxum 9 shooting slide film. (+ incident meter).

Cheers,
Alan.




--
-- r.p.e.35mm user resource: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm
-- r.p.d.slr-systems: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpdslrsysur.htm
-- [SI] gallery & rulz: http://www.pbase.com/shootin
-- e-meil: Remove FreeLunch.

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (More info?)

 

JPS@no.komm wrote:

> In message <de4hbu$laa$1@inews.gazeta.pl>,
> Alan Browne <alan.browne@FreeLunchVideotron.ca> wrote:
>
>
>>Brian wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Does anyone know if you can bracket exposures when shooting in raw
>>>format? I don't have the camera yet, that's why I'm asking...
>>
>>Sure. OTOH, get the higlights right and avoid bracketing altogether.
>
>
> ... and bracket to get the highlights right?

Shouldn't have to. If you can spot meter the highlights, you should be
able to avoid blowing the highlights. Works for me *most* of the time
with the 7D.

Guess the Canon 10/20D/350D shooters are screwed. No spot meter in camera.

Cheers,
Alan.


--
-- r.p.e.35mm user resource: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm
-- r.p.d.slr-systems: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpdslrsysur.htm
-- [SI] gallery & rulz: http://www.pbase.com/shootin
-- e-meil: Remove FreeLunch.

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (More info?)

 

Yes you can bracket. You can have the camera +/- 1/3 stop, 1/2 stop or more.

One other thing you can do with raw is to take one exposure and process it
twice, once for the highlights and once for the shadows. You can then
combine them together to get what you are looking for.

As an example, I was shooting pictures of butterflies on bright yellow and
pink flowers. The foliage was green. I shot a variety of pictures all raw.

When I got them on the computer, I selected the best composition. Next, I
processed the raw image to make sure that the color of the butterfly was
perfect with no regard for the background or flowers. I saved that file
separately. I then processed the same raw image, this time exposing it to
get the background and foliage perfect and ignored the butterfly, which
would have had the highlights blown out. I saved that as a separate image.

I then combined both images, opening one and then pasting the other image on
top making two layers. I then erased the blown out highlights of the
butterfly, which was on the top to allow a more properly exposed image of
the butterfly to come thru.

This technique is great when you are shooting something with a lot of
contract or if you are stuck shooting in the middle of the day with high
sun.

Steve


"Brian" <ripcurl187@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1124425286.515581.166930@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
> Does anyone know if you can bracket exposures when shooting in raw
> format? I don't have the camera yet, that's why I'm asking...
>
> Thanks, Brian
>

Reply to Anonymous
- 0 +

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (More info?)

 

"Alan Browne" <alan.browne@FreeLunchVideotron.ca> wrote in message
news:de5veo$bg3$1@inews.gazeta.pl...
> JPS@no.komm wrote:
>
>> In message <de4hbu$laa$1@inews.gazeta.pl>,
>> Alan Browne <alan.browne@FreeLunchVideotron.ca> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Brian wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>Does anyone know if you can bracket exposures when shooting in raw
>>>>format? I don't have the camera yet, that's why I'm asking...
>>>
>>>Sure. OTOH, get the higlights right and avoid bracketing altogether.
>>
>>
>> ... and bracket to get the highlights right?
>
> Shouldn't have to. If you can spot meter the highlights, you should be
> able to avoid blowing the highlights. Works for me *most* of the time
> with the 7D.
>
That way you end up exposing to the left of the histogram and losing most of
the values available - clipping. In digitaland you need to be a right
wing-capitialist pig to get a good profit! ;) Have a read here

http://luminous-landscape.com/tuto [...] ight.shtml

Also, there are techniques for combining different exposures of the same
shot to 'increase' the DR. Lots of very good info on MR's site...


> Guess the Canon 10/20D/350D shooters are screwed. No spot meter in
> camera.
>
Sorry, but you are screwy! You would not buy currently the best dslr in its
class because it lacked a spot meter? Duh!

> Cheers,
> Alan.
>
>
> --
> -- r.p.e.35mm user resource: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpe35mmur.htm
> -- r.p.d.slr-systems: http://www.aliasimages.com/rpdslrsysur.htm
> -- [SI] gallery & rulz: http://www.pbase.com/shootin
> -- e-meil: Remove FreeLunch.

Reply to lcd
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Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (More info?)

 

"Steve Dell" <stevedell@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:3f6dnXBgeqbng5TeRVn-3w@comcast.com...
> Yes you can bracket. You can have the camera +/- 1/3 stop, 1/2 stop or
> more.
>
> One other thing you can do with raw is to take one exposure and process it
> twice, once for the highlights and once for the shadows. You can then
> combine them together to get what you are looking for.
>

The problem with that way is that you have but one range of values to work
with - if it's all you've got, then fine. It would be better to get two RAW
shots: one for highlights and one for shadows. That way, you have even more
to play with.

http://luminous-landscape.com/tuto [...] ndex.shtml


LCD

Reply to lcd

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (More info?)

 

In message <4311ea7a$0$17485$ed2e19e4@ptn-nntp-reader04.plus.net>,
"LCD" <photonistry@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

>That way you end up exposing to the left of the histogram and losing most of
>the values available - clipping.

I'd call that over-quantization, posterized, or under-digitized, not
"clipping".

Although, if you leave ACR's "shadows" slider greater than 0, it does
clip shadows, and the more you under-expose at a given ISO, the more
shadow range you will lose.
--

<>>< ><<> ><<> <>>< ><<> <>>< <>>< ><<>
John P Sheehy <JPS@no.komm>
><<> <>>< <>>< ><<> <>>< ><<> ><<> <>><

Reply to Anonymous
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Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (More info?)

 

"LCD" <photonistry@yahoo.co.uk> wrote in message
news:4311eb8b$0$17467$ed2e19e4@ptn-nntp-reader04.plus.net...
>
> "Steve Dell" <stevedell@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:3f6dnXBgeqbng5TeRVn-3w@comcast.com...
>> Yes you can bracket. You can have the camera +/- 1/3 stop, 1/2 stop or
>> more.
>>
>> One other thing you can do with raw is to take one exposure and process
>> it twice, once for the highlights and once for the shadows. You can then
>> combine them together to get what you are looking for.
>>
>
> The problem with that way is that you have but one range of values to work
> with - if it's all you've got, then fine. It would be better to get two
> RAW shots: one for highlights and one for shadows. That way, you have even
> more to play with.
>
> http://luminous-landscape.com/tuto [...] ndex.shtml
>
>
> LCD
>
Specifically
http://luminous-landscape.com/tuto [...] ding.shtml

Reply to lcd

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (More info?)

 

In message <4311eb8b$0$17467$ed2e19e4@ptn-nntp-reader04.plus.net>,
"LCD" <photonistry@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

>The problem with that way is that you have but one range of values to work
>with - if it's all you've got, then fine. It would be better to get two RAW
>shots: one for highlights and one for shadows. That way, you have even more
>to play with.

I've never understood the "two conversions" method (especially when
converted to 8-bit). All it does is lower the contrast in the darker
render where the other one clipped or got compressed, and mix in
posterized shadows in the darker render into the lighter render.
--

<>>< ><<> ><<> <>>< ><<> <>>< <>>< ><<>
John P Sheehy <JPS@no.komm>
><<> <>>< <>>< ><<> <>>< ><<> ><<> <>><

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (More info?)

 

<JPS@no.komm> wrote:

> I've never understood the "two conversions" method (especially when
> converted to 8-bit). All it does is lower the contrast in the darker
> render where the other one clipped or got compressed, and mix in
> posterized shadows in the darker render into the lighter render.

It was a workaround to not being able to get the tonal response you
actually needed in RAW conversion. Camera Raw 3 with the curves
interface pretty much makes it obsolete.

However, you didn't mix in the shadows; the idea, same as blending
two different exposures, is to just use the shadows from the lighter
version.

--
Jeremy | jeremy@exit109.com

Reply to Anonymous
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<JPS@no.komm> wrote in message
news:ktq3h15qshb9vigjtffkkqu6h0nsfb8464@4ax.com...
> In message <4311ea7a$0$17485$ed2e19e4@ptn-nntp-reader04.plus.net>,
> "LCD" <photonistry@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
>
>>That way you end up exposing to the left of the histogram and losing most
>>of
>>the values available - clipping.
>
> I'd call that over-quantization, posterized, or under-digitized, not
> "clipping".
>
I see, you mean it has fewer values to use rather than the ones available
being cut off.


> Although, if you leave ACR's "shadows" slider greater than 0, it does
> clip shadows, and the more you under-expose at a given ISO, the more
> shadow range you will lose.
> --
>
> <>>< ><<> ><<> <>>< ><<> <>>< <>>< ><<>
> John P Sheehy <JPS@no.komm>
> ><<> <>>< <>>< ><<> <>>< ><<> ><<> <>><

Reply to lcd
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Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (More info?)

 

<JPS@no.komm> wrote in message
news:e7r3h1tuhukssr235el011r5v0a2jv47ku@4ax.com...
> In message <4311eb8b$0$17467$ed2e19e4@ptn-nntp-reader04.plus.net>,
> "LCD" <photonistry@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
>
>>The problem with that way is that you have but one range of values to work
>>with - if it's all you've got, then fine. It would be better to get two
>>RAW
>>shots: one for highlights and one for shadows. That way, you have even
>>more
>>to play with.
>
> I've never understood the "two conversions" method (especially when
> converted to 8-bit). All it does is lower the contrast in the darker
> render where the other one clipped or got compressed, and mix in
> posterized shadows in the darker render into the lighter render.
> --
>
So, if the original image is properly exposed it will have all the available
values to the camera anyway? I mean if the camera can record say 5 stops and
the scene has 10, then 5 of those 10 will be permanently outside the
camera's ability to record.


> <>>< ><<> ><<> <>>< ><<> <>>< <>>< ><<>
> John P Sheehy <JPS@no.komm>
> ><<> <>>< <>>< ><<> <>>< ><<> ><<> <>><

Reply to lcd

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (More info?)

 

LCD <photonistry@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

> So, if the original image is properly exposed it will have all the available
> values to the camera anyway? I mean if the camera can record say 5 stops and
> the scene has 10, then 5 of those 10 will be permanently outside the
> camera's ability to record.

You would have to use two (or more) different exposures to capture the full
range. If the camera can record 5 stops, that's all it can record.

--
Jeremy | jeremy@exit109.com

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (More info?)

 

In message <43122566$0$97116$ed2619ec@ptn-nntp-reader03.plus.net>,
"LCD" <photonistry@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

><JPS@no.komm> wrote in message
>news:e7r3h1tuhukssr235el011r5v0a2jv47ku@4ax.com...

>> I've never understood the "two conversions" method (especially when
>> converted to 8-bit). All it does is lower the contrast in the darker
>> render where the other one clipped or got compressed, and mix in
>> posterized shadows in the darker render into the lighter render.

>So, if the original image is properly exposed it will have all the available
>values to the camera anyway?

I just render RAW images with lots of dynamic range a little dark as a
16-bit TIFF, and then use "curves to bring back the mid-tones and squash
the highlights.

In an ideal world, there would be a control in the RAW converter that
would be like a horizontal slider, with multiple small vertical sliders
on it. Each would represent a RAW zone, and its placement on where it
is mapped in the output. The smaller vertical sliders would control
contrast within those zones. The controls to the left would boost
contrast by brightening their brighter parts; the ones to the right by
darkening their darker parts, etc.


>I mean if the camera can record say 5 stops and
>the scene has 10, then 5 of those 10 will be permanently outside the
>camera's ability to record.

Well, it's a little bit more than that, but yes, sometimes you will need
two completely different exposures. Some current sensors are limited at
their lowest ISOs by the standard 12-bit analog-to-digital conversion,
so better converters could make better use out of current sensors.

--

<>>< ><<> ><<> <>>< ><<> <>>< <>>< ><<>
John P Sheehy <JPS@no.komm>
><<> <>>< <>>< ><<> <>>< ><<> ><<> <>><

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (More info?)

 

<JPS@no.komm> wrote:

> In an ideal world, there would be a control in the RAW converter that
> would be like a horizontal slider, with multiple small vertical sliders
> on it. Each would represent a RAW zone, and its placement on where it
> is mapped in the output. The smaller vertical sliders would control
> contrast within those zones. The controls to the left would boost
> contrast by brightening their brighter parts; the ones to the right by
> darkening their darker parts, etc.

Isn't Curves (in ACR) what you're describing, just with a slightly different
interface? It controls how each level of RAW data gets mapped to the output.

--
Jeremy | jeremy@exit109.com

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (More info?)

 

In message <11h4rtgl5648r04@corp.supernews.com>,
Jeremy Nixon <jeremy@exit109.com> wrote:

> <JPS@no.komm> wrote:
>
>> In an ideal world, there would be a control in the RAW converter that
>> would be like a horizontal slider, with multiple small vertical sliders
>> on it. Each would represent a RAW zone, and its placement on where it
>> is mapped in the output. The smaller vertical sliders would control
>> contrast within those zones. The controls to the left would boost
>> contrast by brightening their brighter parts; the ones to the right by
>> darkening their darker parts, etc.
>
>Isn't Curves (in ACR) what you're describing, just with a slightly different
>interface? It controls how each level of RAW data gets mapped to the output.

"Curves" does nothing to effect contrast boosts in compressed ranges,
and is unwieldy. The control is far to coarse to be truly useful.

How would you like to drive a car where you steered with a pair of
pliers on a shaft, and it only turned in 45 degree increments? That is
what using "curves" feels like to me.
--

<>>< ><<> ><<> <>>< ><<> <>>< <>>< ><<>
John P Sheehy <JPS@no.komm>
><<> <>>< <>>< ><<> <>>< ><<> ><<> <>><

Reply to Anonymous

Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (More info?)

 

<JPS@no.komm> wrote:

> "Curves" does nothing to effect contrast boosts in compressed ranges,

One increases contrast in a range by steepening the angle in that range.
(The result need not be a smooth curve, but I've found that the resulting
image rarely looks natural unless its tonal response actually is a smooth
curve.)

> and is unwieldy. The control is far to coarse to be truly useful.

If you're trying to do extreme adjustments, it would be truly unwieldy,
yes. I've found that it gets me what I want, though, as long as what I
want isn't the result of individual color channel curves or a different
blending mode for the adjustment layer, neither of which are necessary
very often for me. I usually don't need to touch my pictures in
Photoshop proper at all anymore, with Camera Raw 3, apart from resizing
and sharpening and saving JPEGs for whatever purpose.

What kind of adjustments are you trying to make, exactly? The Camera Raw
folks are very receptive to feedback.

--
Jeremy | jeremy@exit109.com

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