HTPC Problem: Can not turn on with MCE remote.

So I wasn't really sure where to post this thread, so hopefully here is as good a place as any.

I recently built my first HTPC.

Fractal Design Node 605
i3-3225 mATX
ASRock H77M
8GB G.Skill DDR3 1600
Crucial 64GB SSD
Panasonic Slimline BDROM Burner
Silverstone Strider 500W (modular)

All is well in that regard and the computer works well and boots in <12 seconds.

What I am trying to achieve here is to be able to turn the computer (from S5) with my Harmony One when I turn on my home theater. I have read through this (see below) entire thread, but have not found a solution to my problem. So maybe the good folks at Tom's can help me figure this out.

I have done the following:
Disabled USB Select Suspend for all USB hubs (Device Manager)
Enabled devices to be able to wake computer (Device Manager)
Enabled "Wake from S5" option for USB Mouse and USB Keyboard/Remote (UEFI/BIOS)

I have tested several devices' ability to turn the computer on from S5. A wired USB keyboard or mouse WILL power on the computer with any input (click, key).
I tested my Perixx Peripad (RF touch/keypad) but it WILL NOT power on the computer. I also tested my Koolertron (RF air mouse keypad) which WILL power on the computer with any input. From this I can safely deduce that the system is indeed set to power on from S5 with usb input and that it will work with some select devices.

But as I said, I need this to be IR so I can program it into my Harmony One. I recently purchased the Mediagate GP-IR01BK ( Out of the box, it installed fine and seemed to work to select icons etc. I pressed the IO button and the computer went to sleep. When I pressed it again nothing happened. I checked to see what my power button was set to do and it is set to shut down. So the IO button on the remote must correspond to the "Standby" button on my computer which is set to sleep (can't set it to shut down).

I programmed the remote into my Harmony (using Anyware GP-IR01BK profile). I noticed there is only a power toggle. I read to have discrete on/off commands you have to use the Windows Media Center SE profile. When I did this I found the discrete on/off commands and set them to custom buttons on my Harmony. Now if I press off, computer goes to sleep. Press on, wakes up. This is OK in my book except my case power LED flashes constantly in S3 (off in S4-5) which is pretty annoying in a Home Theater setup.

I also tested manually turning of PC and pressing the discrete ON button, but nothing. So somehow these MCE remotes can only put computer to sleep and wake up.

I REALLY want to find a solution to this, but I'm not sure it's even possible.

Any advice you guys have for me would be much appreciated!

P.S. I don't want to install an internal IR switch because I don't want to drill a hole in the front of my beautiful case. I also do not really want to use ASRocks on board CIR and Smart remote because most of the reviews I have read say it is buggy and won't do much else besides power on/off, and i would have to use the front USB 3.0 ports which I would rather keep free for my 3.0 devices.
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  1. The only way to power on an HTPC with an IR remote is by using S3, unless you have a case that has a power lead that comes off the 24-pin to supply the IR receiver with power. My MonCaso 832P has the latter and works fine from S5.

    You have a few options:

    #1: Don't plug in the power LED or dim the LED with a sharpie marker.
    #2: Get a hold of an LED that is powered by a molex plug. Splice/solder the wires to your existing LED to it so that it is powered directly from the PSU rather than the motherboard header, or replace your case's LED altogether with the new LED. ***If you splice/solder, be sure the proper resistor is in the cable!!
    #3: Get a Gigabyte motherboard. Asus and ASRock both flash the LED in S3. Gigabyte and MSI do not flash the LED in standby.
    #4: Get a different case that uses a 4-pin molex to power the LED. My Antec HTPC case does this.
    #5: Get a different case that has a power lead for the IR coming from the 24-pin PSU cable. Moneual, Silverstone, and I think Zalman have these. It looks like this (from this review):

    I know options #3-5 are not ideal since you already have your hardware, so I suggest option #1 or #2.
  2. How about that. After a little Googling I found this:

    That will make your power LED stay off during S3.

    Edit: The description says it will do what you want, but the picture shows a 2-pin female end. Might want to check on that... you would need a 4-pin molex to 2-pin male connector with a resistor.
  3. check out simerec or
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