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High-end Gaming build compatibility check

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January 27, 2013 5:49:53 PM

Hello gentlemen, Mike here.

so im building a gaming rig to last a couple years and have picked some parts which looked good :) 
i need a complete compatibility check here so i wont buy something and suddenly it wont fit. that would suck a whole lot. before i start, you should know that I'm a first-timer at this.
so here they are:

for my Mobo, i chose the Asus P8-Z77 V-pro due to its amount of slots for future upgrade(s)

for a CPU i stand between the i5 2500k, the i5 3570k and the all powerful i7 3770k- now, keep in mind i want this to be a more or less future-proof system. just let me know which will be compatible with the rest of the rig, and i´ll decide afterwards

for a graphics card i´ve chosen what they called the beast. I'm speaking of course, about the Nvidia GTX 690

memory: 16Gb (2x8) of corsair. why 16GB? because I'm gonna probably use windows 8. hate me or love me for it, but I'm gonna give it a shot. ive heard about RAM issues aboard the
8-train, and i also wanna be future-proof, plus ram is cheap so...

now, for Hard Drive, I'm gonna go with an SSD option this season fellas, and i´ve picked the Samsung 840 series 250GB, simply because its good, for a good price (comparing to other SSDs) when i need it, i´ll drop another 200 bucks on 250 again, but i´ll start off with just one card. HDD access denied!

CPU Cooling: Zalman CNPS12X would be the man (fan) for this job i think. not only is it cool looking for my window, its also quiet (i respect silence) and effective at the same time. and cheaper than, say, liquid cooling.

PSU AND CASE: so these are the two i spent most time researching for, for good reasons. the CASE i want look a little something like this: http://tinyurl.com/9wazhot
not only is it one of the most sexy-looking cases i´ve ever seen (Imo), it also goes perfectly with my monitor. and it seems to me that its compatible with the other components.

for the PSU, i found the "OCZ ZX series 1000W" supplier. it is cool, quiet, and a hell of a lot cheaper than the competitor the cooler master "1000w silent pro gold".
now, before you judge me for having picked an overkill Watt delivery, i just wanna remind you that this rig must be upgradable/future-proof. therefor, i´ve chosen HQ PSUs to not mess things up. my only concern for the PSU is if it will fit in the case. the coolermaster one has the same name as the case so it would seem that would be more compatible. call me an idiot, but
i´m just trying to think logically.

that about wraps it up. a full compatibility check is needed here, and a checkmark on good airflow, silence and performance capabilities. other advice is also appreciated :) 

thanks
January 27, 2013 5:52:19 PM

i almost forgot!
i havent pickes a DVD drive yet, because i dont know anything about that. what would look good on the case? what brand is recommended? what should i pick?
January 27, 2013 5:58:24 PM

Just any cheap $20 drive would do, from LG or ASUS. In my opinion it is not possible to future proof. It doesn't mean buying the most expensive parts in the world. Save some money grab a GTX 670 or a Radeon 7950. Those cards can still max out games with respectable frame rates. The PSU you should get is a Seasonic X 650. Seasonic is the god of all PSUs and it is fully modular with 80 plus GOLD efficiency. That case is great for airflow though I personally don't like the looks of the HAF series except the HAF 912. The CPU you should get is the 3570K, 2500K is last generation. The 3570K should be a couple % faster than the 2500K at stock and overclocked settings. As for the CPU cooler grab a cheap Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo because it is a great value for a CPU cooler and should serve you well for up to about 4.2GHZ. For memory getting 16gb is a complete waste of money, 8gb will give you the same performance.
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January 27, 2013 6:03:18 PM

You could also get a GTX 680 or a 7970 if you want a bit more, but I would just get a 7950 (because it is so cheap) and overclock it to 7970 levels.
January 27, 2013 6:11:49 PM

I will tell you why to get a 3570K instead of a 3770K. The 3570K is like a 3770K but without the hyper threading. The 3770K is better than the 3570K at stuff like video rendering, or photo editing. When just purely gaming there is a MINUSCULE difference between the two. Maybe a 1-3 FPS difference based on the reviews I read.
January 27, 2013 6:54:55 PM

completelyrandomname said:
I will tell you why to get a 3570K instead of a 3770K. The 3570K is like a 3770K but without the hyper threading. The 3770K is better than the 3570K at stuff like video rendering, or photo editing. When just purely gaming there is a MINUSCULE difference between the two. Maybe a 1-3 FPS difference based on the reviews I read.


ok, i5 3570k it is :) 
but im gonna stick with 16GB Ram
i´ll definitely check out the seasonic PSU and the cooler you mentioned, but as for the Graphics card, i might go 5760x1080 or 5760x 1200 or whatever 3 1080p monitors are called, so im gonna need the overkill. i also found an external DVD drive from asus which looks incredibly cool.

i still need the compatibility check mark for my build though, that´s the thing im concerned about the most.

im buying my items from amazon.co.uk since i live in denmark btw :) 

thanks for the quick reply completelyran
a b 4 Gaming
January 27, 2013 7:50:52 PM

Please post you ram speed in mhz, some motherboards are not compatible with the faster ram.
a b 4 Gaming
January 27, 2013 7:51:45 PM

Also you could just pick up 2x7970s which perform better than this said "beast"....

Reason 1. Performance, it's faster, can be overclocked better, and handles high res better than the single 690.
Reason 2. Value, It's cheaper than a single 690...
January 28, 2013 6:00:59 AM

burritobob said:
Also you could just pick up 2x7970s which perform better than this said "beast"....

Reason 1. Performance, it's faster, can be overclocked better, and handles high res better than the single 690.
Reason 2. Value, It's cheaper than a single 690...


untill AMD fixes its issues (i´m talking mainly about MicroStuttering here) it´s gonna be Nvidia. now, new cards will come out soon, so we´ll see who wins this war, but so far i´d go for GTX 680 ftw Sli. it is more expensive i know. but i won´t compromise when it comes to graphic. it is a gaming PC after all.

anyways, what is this whole overclock thing? please explain :) 
January 28, 2013 9:00:17 PM

Okay, going GTX 680 SLI is not a bad choice, neither is the 7970 CFX route... As for overclocking, it is a process in which you take a STOCK FREQUENCY of a CPU or something and you MAKE IT GO HIGHER than the stock frequency resulting in better performance. Keep in mind the more you overclock the more heat it will output and if you don't have a good enough cooling solution then this will be a problem. The 212 and the custom coolers from GIGABYTE, MSI, and ASUS are well built so you don't have to worry about that. I hope this helps.
January 28, 2013 9:12:31 PM

Mike341 said:
untill AMD fixes its issues (i´m talking mainly about MicroStuttering here) it´s gonna be Nvidia. now, new cards will come out soon, so we´ll see who wins this war, but so far i´d go for GTX 680 ftw Sli. it is more expensive i know. but i won´t compromise when it comes to graphic. it is a gaming PC after all.

anyways, what is this whole overclock thing? please explain :) 


OC'ing is pushing the stock voltage, core, memory clocks of your cpu/gpu past the ordinary limit to achieve higher performance in games, as well as solving bottlenecks. Overclocking should NOT be attempted on higher end cpu's with anything aside from a aftermarket cooler, though stock clocks on a stock fan should be fine. Go with the hyper 212 evo, the cheaper plus, and put two 120's on that thing in push/pull. The haf 912 and other haf cases should work, as they have great cable management and airflow. If you want more cooling, don't go water, it's not worth it, and you'd be better off with a low-maintenence, high performing cooler like the Noctua NH-d14 for around 80 bucks.
January 28, 2013 9:42:50 PM

The Hyper 212 should be able to go to around 4.2/4.4GHZ. If you want REALLY good cooling just for even lower temps, grab something like the Noctua NH-D14, Phanteks PH-TC14PE, or the Thermalright Silver Arrow SB-E.
a c 92 B Homebuilt system
a c 276 4 Gaming
January 28, 2013 10:43:45 PM

Quote:
memory: 16Gb (2x8) of corsair. why 16GB? because I'm gonna probably use windows 8. hate me or love me for it, but I'm gonna give it a shot. ive heard about RAM issues aboard the
8-train, and i also wanna be future-proof, plus ram is cheap so...


There's no such thing as future proofing. No matter what motherboard and CPU / GPU combo you purchase there's always something better coming along the pike. You just have to buy now and accept what you buy. You don't really need 16GB of RAM to run Windows 8.

Quote:
now, for Hard Drive, I'm gonna go with an SSD option this season fellas, and i´ve picked the Samsung 840 series 250GB, simply because its good, for a good price (comparing to other SSDs) when i need it, i´ll drop another 200 bucks on 250 again, but i´ll start off with just one card. HDD access denied!


The standard 840 isn't that great. The 840 Pro is a blazing fast drive however. Alternately consider the OCZ Vector - it's based on a new proprietary controller called Bigfoot and most tests have it matching or beating the 840 Pro. Get a mechanical HD anyways - just because it's not new technology doesn't mean it's worth it. Mechanical HDs can take a lot more punishment in terms of read - write cycles than SSDs can. Even the fastest SSDs on the market only have limited life spans.

Quote:
CPU Cooling: Zalman CNPS12X would be the man (fan) for this job i think. not only is it cool looking for my window, its also quiet (i respect silence) and effective at the same time. and cheaper than, say, liquid cooling.


I agree with everyone here so far this isn't the best choice. Go with a Noctua D14 - sure it's big but can OC as best as any closed block CPU liquid cooler can.

Quote:
untill AMD fixes its issues (i´m talking mainly about MicroStuttering here) it´s gonna be Nvidia. now, new cards will come out soon, so we´ll see who wins this war, but so far i´d go for GTX 680 ftw Sli. it is more expensive i know. but i won´t compromise when it comes to graphic. it is a gaming PC after all.


I thought Catalyst 12.11 fixed the microstuttering issues, no?

Quote:

for the PSU, i found the "OCZ ZX series 1000W" supplier. it is cool, quiet, and a hell of a lot cheaper than the competitor the cooler master "1000w silent pro gold".
now, before you judge me for having picked an overkill Watt delivery, i just wanna remind you that this rig must be upgradable/future-proof. therefor, i´ve chosen HQ PSUs to not mess things up. my only concern for the PSU is if it will fit in the case. the coolermaster one has the same name as the case so it would seem that would be more compatible. call me an idiot, but


Neither one of those power supplies are that great. Just because the name is the same it doesn't mean that it's more compatible. In fact if you check PSU review sites like Hardware Secrets and Jonnyguru - they state that Cooler Master often lies about the voltage output of its' power supplies and states false wattage numbers. Great power supplies would be like the PC Power & Cooling Silencer series, or the NZXT Hale 90 (made by Super Flower), or anything that's made by Seasonic / Seasonic branded (here's a list: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/power-supply-oem-ma... ). These supplies use a lot of high quality components and don't skimp on anything. You don't want to get the wrong PSU or it will end badly. Again - future proofing is a gigantic moot point - what's the same now is not going to be the same three years from now.
January 29, 2013 5:09:52 PM

Thank you all. especially you g-unit111
i appreciate your time, and i take your advice very serious.
i checked things out further, and figured out that the Noctua NH D-14 is better than my choice. and only around 5 bucks more expensive. allthough my eyes are still recovering from seeing such awful design, i think i´ll survive. i´ll put something cool looking on the window maybe to not ruin the cases beauty.

also, i´vé changed to the seasonic 1000W platinum PSU. its a lot more expensive, but it seems, worth the cost. i also think it´ll be fairly quiet since i´m only gonna use around 600-750W i think.

thats right. i realized that the 680 sli is just as good, if not better performing than the 690. and i further realized that the 670 sli option was a hell of a lot cheaper and only 5% worse in performance. so thats that. 1 GTX 670 4GB FTW for now, and a second later, but i´l get to that later.

now, for the hard drive, i´m gonna stick with the SSD. i´ve read about SLC vs MLC, and was wondering which ssd is SLC out there? they should last a lifetime, people say.

i´ll also stick with 16gb of ram.

now, for the graphics card. for now, i´ll get a 4GB ftw gtx 670, and another one later. why 4gb you might ask? well, because i´m gonna upgrade to 5760x1080 later on, meaning triple-monitor setup. all i dont know by now is good monitors for a setup like this. atm i have an old HP 2159m which won´t work for this.
so far, my best bet is the Samsung S27B350H 27" monitor for a landscape surround experience. i once considered portrait, but i aint that much of a racer nor am i an mmo player, more of a fps guy, so i need the viewing angle. and this screen just seems right.
if you have any better ones in this price range, do tell, and i´ll check them out.

i know this is off topic for this thread, but t what the hell, lets throw mouse and keyboard in too.
now, for a mouse im very into the Cyborg R.A.T 9 from madcatz. not only is it highly customizable (there´s nothing i love more than messing around with options and testing stuff out) and it also has the perfect design for the rest of my gear.
for a keyboard, im on rock bottom. i have no clue what is good, bad or what to consider. the razer deathstalker keyboard, but i dont know...
a c 92 B Homebuilt system
a c 276 4 Gaming
January 29, 2013 5:34:41 PM

Quote:
i checked things out further, and figured out that the Noctua NH D-14 is better than my choice. and only around 5 bucks more expensive. allthough my eyes are still recovering from seeing such awful design, i think i´ll survive. i´ll put something cool looking on the window maybe to not ruin the cases beauty.


Yeah the D14 is huge but it cools just as good if not better than most closed liquid loops.

Quote:
also, i´vé changed to the seasonic 1000W platinum PSU. its a lot more expensive, but it seems, worth the cost. i also think it´ll be fairly quiet since i´m only gonna use around 600-750W i think.


That's a lot better choice.

Quote:

now, for the graphics card. for now, i´ll get a 4GB ftw gtx 670, and another one later. why 4gb you might ask? well, because i´m gonna upgrade to 5760x1080 later on, meaning triple-monitor setup. all i dont know by now is good monitors for a setup like this. atm i have an old HP 2159m which won´t work for this.
so far, my best bet is the Samsung S27B350H 27" monitor for a landscape surround experience. i once considered portrait, but i aint that much of a racer nor am i an mmo player, more of a fps guy, so i need the viewing angle. and this screen just seems right.
if you have any better ones in this price range, do tell, and i´ll check them out.


You don't necessarily need 4GB VRAM to run at that resolution but it doesn't hurt either.
Anonymous
a b B Homebuilt system
a b 4 Gaming
January 29, 2013 5:52:48 PM

make sure you get low profile RAM with that D-14

it does cover up quite a few DIMM slots but any LP RAM will fit under it.
January 31, 2013 6:58:19 PM

all right so this is my final draft:

Motherboard: asus P8Z77-V pro

Processor: i5 3570k 4x 3.40GHz

memory: 16GB corsair low profile

CPU Cooler: Zalman CNPS12X (this is qieter and more badass than the noctua. and performs well enough.

Hard drive: 128GB Intel SSD for OS, applications etc, and most played games (like battlefield 3, Crysis 2 and stuff i can fit in

Secondary Hard drive: WD Caviar Green 2TB SATA 6Gbps OEM, and this will be for all of my other games on steam, and non steam. i currently have i think about 400-500 GB of it :D :D 

PSU: Seasonic platinum ATX 12V 1000W

Case: still the coolermaster HAF X

DVD Drive: asus 24x SATA bla bla..

GPU: Asus GTX 670 (4GB GDDR5)

now, i plan on getting a 120Hz Screen later on with a second GTX 670, and i still need to know if an eventual 3rd GTX 670 will make a difference, and how much, since its listed nowhere i can find. i might even (probably not, but) purchase a 1440p monitor too for all non-fps gaming i do, like shogun 2, other RTS, RPG, and Beautiful indie game experiences like "splice".

so thats it. also if anyone have experience with the Cyborg R.A.T 9 mouse, please let me know about it :)  im buying it either way, but a good story is appreciated always!

thanks guys :) 

all right so this is my final draft:

Motherboard: asus P8Z77-V pro

Processor: i5 3570k 4x 3.40GHz

memory: 16GB corsair low profile

CPU Cooler: Zalman CNPS12X (this is qieter and more badass than the noctua. and performs well enough.

Hard drive: 128GB Intel SSD for OS, applications etc, and most played games (like battlefield 3, Crysis 2 and stuff i can fit in

Secondary Hard drive: WD Caviar Green 2TB SATA 6Gbps OEM, and this will be for all of my other games on steam, and non steam. i currently have i think about 400-500 GB of it :D :D 

PSU: Seasonic platinum ATX 12V 1000W

Case: still the coolermaster HAF X

DVD Drive: asus 24x SATA bla bla..

GPU: Asus GTX 670 (4GB GDDR5)

now, i plan on getting a 120Hz Screen later on with a second GTX 670, and i still need to know if an eventual 3rd GTX 670 will make a difference, and how much, since its listed nowhere i can find. i might even (probably not, but) purchase a 1440p monitor too for all non-fps gaming i do, like shogun 2, other RTS, RPG, and Beautiful indie game experiences like "splice".

so thats it. also if anyone have experience with the Cyborg R.A.T 9 mouse, please let me know about it :)  im buying it either way, but a good story is appreciated always!

thanks guys :) 
Anonymous
a b B Homebuilt system
a b 4 Gaming
January 31, 2013 7:24:32 PM

a 1000 watt PSU is overkill, a 650 watt will be enough. the motherboard you picked will not support 3 way sli with 8x,8x and a 4x slots.

overclocked 670 SLI with a i7-2600K overclocked to 4.8 will just be under 500 watts:
http://www.hardocp.com/article/2013/01/14/asus_geforce_...


when picking a PSU you want one that is over 20% load on idle and less than 80% on full load.
February 2, 2013 5:06:14 PM

yeah, im gonna take a step down to the sea sonic platinum 860W. it´ll save me a bunch :D 
also, i´m seriously considering over clocking but have no experience with it ...but i was wondering if the Arctic accelero Xtreme GPU cooler upgrade is worth it?
and how much i should over clock?

also, i reconsidered the 3way sli, it´s not needed honestly haha. i´ll get 1 of the 670 with my build, then a second and the benq xl2420t 120Hz gaming screen on a couple months, and kick ass :D 
Anonymous
a b B Homebuilt system
a b 4 Gaming
February 2, 2013 6:37:58 PM

if you get a reference card that has just one fan towards that back of the card and blows out to the back of the case, then you may want to look at a third party cooling solution. but if you get an asus DCII, a gigabyte windforce or any "non reference" design you probably won't need to improve on the cooling.

there are quite a few reviews that have an example on how they overclocked.
http://www.hardocp.com/article/2013/01/08/asus_geforce_...
http://www.hardocp.com/article/2013/01/14/asus_geforce_...
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/ASUS/GeForce_GTX_670...
http://www.overclockers.com/asus-gtx670-directcu-ii-top...
February 3, 2013 6:35:48 AM

Anonymous said:
if you get a reference card that has just one fan towards that back of the card and blows out to the back of the case, then you may want to look at a third party cooling solution. but if you get an asus DCII, a gigabyte windforce or any "non reference" design you probably won't need to improve on the cooling.

there are quite a few reviews that have an example on how they overclocked.
http://www.hardocp.com/article/2013/01/08/asus_geforce_...
http://www.hardocp.com/article/2013/01/14/asus_geforce_...
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/ASUS/GeForce_GTX_670...
http://www.overclockers.com/asus-gtx670-directcu-ii-top...


yeah, im going with the asus DCII, sorry i didnt mention :) 
for overclocking, i was thinking that this might help?:
http://hexus.net/tech/reviews/cooling/34809-arctic-acce...
my only concerns with this would be will it make it too big to fit my motherboard? (im gonna have 2 670s later on) or will that be ok? also, will it stay within my 860w power supply range?

about the mothrboard...is there any better choise for me? (Gaming)...currently im on the asus p8z77-v pro...i have been looking at the asus maximus v extreme, for future upgrades and the onboard sound card. whats the best choise for me?

edit: i just saw the price tag on the extreme version and holy ***...how bout the maximus v formula? is it any good?
Anonymous
a b B Homebuilt system
a b 4 Gaming
February 3, 2013 11:52:58 AM

i must be honest with you, i am extremely biased towards the P8Z77-V Pro; if all goes well i ought to have one in a few days myself - even though i have a "locked" sandy i5 i am hoping to tweak the turbo settings and seeing what increase in the Bclk i can do without making my rig unstable. but i digress. . .

with that said the only real differences between the maximus formula and V pro is the max has fittings for water cooling the VRMs (power delivery) to the cpu and a better audio chip. IMO watercooling VRMS is more for "pimping" than functional; it would take an extreme overclock with horrible case cooling to have that need. the audio is much better but whaen you consider the cost difference . .it really appears that you are buying a name/brand than features on a motherboard.

a lot like the sabertooth - take off the thermal armor and you have a P8Z77-V Pro . . . i did tell you i was biased, right? :lol: 
February 3, 2013 12:35:23 PM

Anonymous said:
i must be honest with you, i am extremely biased towards the P8Z77-V Pro; if all goes well i ought to have one in a few days myself - even though i have a "locked" sandy i5 i am hoping to tweak the turbo settings and seeing what increase in the Bclk i can do without making my rig unstable. but i digress. . .

with that said the only real differences between the maximus formula and V pro is the max has fittings for water cooling the VRMs (power delivery) to the cpu and a better audio chip. IMO watercooling VRMS is more for "pimping" than functional; it would take an extreme overclock with horrible case cooling to have that need. the audio is much better but whaen you consider the cost difference . .it really appears that you are buying a name/brand than features on a motherboard.

a lot like the sabertooth - take off the thermal armor and you have a P8Z77-V Pro . . . i did tell you i was biased, right? :lol: 


you´re right about the most part :) 
but i dont agree with you on the price point. the maximus is very much worth it to me. forst of all, i dont have to get that wifi go gimmicky stuff that i dont need. also, if i add a similar sound card (performance wise) to the pro, the prices are the same-at least where im from (denmark). plus the extra 3.0 PCIe x16 slot i can use for a third card, should i decide to buy an IPS 1440p or 1600p monitor later. the sound card comes in handy when im getting the astro a40 headset later on.

btw, its the same brand (Asus). i agree on the watercooling though :)  its just for the bregging rights. then again, if somebody bragged about it to me, i´d not be impressed.

when you say locked i5 which one so you mean? i myself am getting the 3570K, and was hoping to try overclocking for the first time :)  especially when i get my 120Hz monitor for max benefit :D  :D 
Anonymous
a b B Homebuilt system
a b 4 Gaming
February 3, 2013 2:37:40 PM

ahhhhhh

the prices i was looking at, the maximus is $70 US more. if they are close to the same and you can better configure the connectivity with the max, then by all means it would be a wiser purchase. the "brand" is was referring to was the maximus name, as like the sabertooth, it is made by asus but some of the "added" features seem to carry a high premium price. but going back to what you said, if the pricing is the same . . go for it.

i have a i5-2400, it does not have an adjustable multiplier such as the "K" versions ( i5-2500K, i5-3570K) the "stock" multi is 31x and goes to 32x for all 4 cores with turbo because my H67 motherboard has no adjustments in the BIOS. also the max RAM speed is DDR3 1333. when i try to raise the Bclk (which a lot of people freak out because going crazy with it can damage components) past 103 from 100 i can't post because of my RAM; the Bclk also runs the PCI express and RAM.

so along with better options to configure the turbo boost, i can get DDR3 1600 RAM and see what further tweaking i can do. i doubt it will end up being more than a 7% boost and won't do much but, hey i like to tweak things out when possible without damaging anything.

but getting back to your build, overall its looking good. the maximus with a i5-3570K. those asus DCIIs are nice and i don't think you will need to replace the coolers on them. that HAF X is a really nice case and will have great air flow that will help with keeping the temps down for a SLI set up.

still getting the seasonic platinum 860W?
February 3, 2013 4:22:58 PM

860? yeah, i am :) 
i know that 650w is more than enough to feed my sli, but should i go 3way and IPS monitor for gorgeous quality in rts, rpg and that kinda stuff, a 860 might come in handy. i prolly wont go 3way anytime soon though :) 

actually if i OC the monster to 4.5GHz, i´d need 677W with 2 cards, and 796W with 3 cards, and only reach 75% load tops.

i used this to calculate http://www.extreme.outervision.com/PSUEngine and didnt include the fans in case, so yeah, 860W is my choice still. also, im gonna go with 8GB instead of 16GB RAM. i´ll order all of this the 6th of march, so im just tweaking and improving the last little things as good as i can.

do you have any idea how hot it will get when overclocking to 4.5? don´t wanna go ahead and fry anything hehe
Anonymous
a b B Homebuilt system
a b 4 Gaming
February 3, 2013 4:49:58 PM

yesterday i saw a forum member, whom i trust, compare that online calculator PSU recommendation what their reading was from a killowatt meter of their rig. the actual load was 60% of the recommendation - it allows plenty of room for breathing.

the largest concern with overclocking an ivy bridge is the temps do gat a bit hot once you need to increase the Vcore (cpu voltage). keeping it below 1.3 volts is important.

here is an article exploring that when ivy was first released and folks got all worried when the temps where higher than the sandys
Undervolting and Overclocking on Ivy Bridge

if you get the Noctua D-14 it will help tremendously. even though i don't have a "K" i found one gently used for hafl price. it lowered my max temps by 20c.
February 4, 2013 12:29:08 PM

Anonymous said:
yesterday i saw a forum member, whom i trust, compare that online calculator PSU recommendation what their reading was from a killowatt meter of their rig. the actual load was 60% of the recommendation - it allows plenty of room for breathing.

the largest concern with overclocking an ivy bridge is the temps do gat a bit hot once you need to increase the Vcore (cpu voltage). keeping it below 1.3 volts is important.

here is an article exploring that when ivy was first released and folks got all worried when the temps where higher than the sandys
Undervolting and Overclocking on Ivy Bridge

if you get the Noctua D-14 it will help tremendously. even though i don't have a "K" i found one gently used for hafl price. it lowered my max temps by 20c.


before i overclock, is there a meaning to overclocking the cpu for gaming? i know about the graphic card meaning, but the graphic card is really the bottleneck in todays tech, so whats the cpu OC for?

what does it mean for a graphics card to exhaust the air around it?

is the ASUS GTX670-DC2G-4GD5 4GB a direct ii or a direct ii TOP?


also, i might just buy one gtx 670 now, and save up for the maxwell gen later on. or if its too expensive for the value, might just go with another gtx 670 as they are sure to drop in price around then. for instance it just took off 10$ where im gonna shop :D  :D 

and ive heard that the consoles are holding the gaming industry back....which way? the game requirements? or something else..?
Anonymous
a b B Homebuilt system
a b 4 Gaming
February 4, 2013 2:56:09 PM

overclocking can squeeze out a few more FPS:


but not always:


some games are a bit more cpu dependent than others and multiplayer mode will need more cpu than single player such as battlefield 3.

take a look at a "reference" card and see how the shroud comes down and covers the sides:

then take a look at a non reference cooling design:


and see how the sides are exposed?


the fan in the first card will be forced to blow all the exhaust out the back, outside of the case. whereas the twin frozer with the sides exposed will blow much of the air from the fans inside of the case.

the asus DCII is simular to the TF:


so it is a bit meaningful to have some air flow in the case for exhaust. BUT we are talking about a keplar gpu. they don't give off a lot of heat especially compared to fermi (the 5xx and 4xx series). with an average power draw of ~155 watts the 670 won't get nearly as hot as a 570 that sucks up ~210 watts using the same 2x6 pin power connections. there would be a bit of a concern running SLI in a small micro case with no fans . .but that HAF X will alleviate any excess heat.

i really don't expect prices to fall very much even after the release of the 7xx series in a few months. the prices for the 5xx series have dropped like a rock but i think that has more to do with the new gpu that keplar is (the 7xxs are just a "refresh") and sellers wanting to get rid of old stock.

and sorry, i don't read much about the faults of consoles . i see people get very agitated in the discussion . . :??: 



February 4, 2013 5:01:35 PM

then i might just go with a second 670 when that time comes :) 
depending on the price of the 7xx of course.

cpu oc seems not worth it to me, so im just gonna wait for it to make sense. im not part of the GHz bitchrace at all, so...
also thanks for the great info, and assuring me that my build will work. means a lot to me :D  if i knew how to pick best answer you´d win.

i think thats it . i´ve learned a lot and will update my rig if necessary since its just 6th march i´m ordering. thats right around the corner!! cant wait since i´ve never made a rig before, let alone had a gaming rig able to pull more than 1200x900ish res :( 

again, thanks :D 
February 5, 2013 5:10:19 AM

EDIT: thats not it...i just stumbled apon something called demciflex filters which should be better for preventing dust from entering my system, than the standard HAF X filters. as the lazy person i am, i am willing to spend the extra money for these. i just need to know how to get them when i live in Denmark. only place i´ve found them is frozenpc.com and thats in the US. also, ive been told that the haf x filter set includes all but the back intake filter. which dimensions is this?

also will there be room for 2 of the asus 670 direct ii on my mono?
Anonymous
a b B Homebuilt system
a b 4 Gaming
February 5, 2013 5:30:22 AM

not sure about shopping for the filters, maybe contacting the manufacture would provide some information.

there is enough room for two dual slot cards like the DCII on the maximus, there is two slots between the first and second x16 slots. it will be fine with a slot for space.

edit: btw, the back fan (top?) would be for exhaust and for obvious reasons wouldn't need a dust filter.
February 5, 2013 6:57:30 AM

Anonymous said:
not sure about shopping for the filters, maybe contacting the manufacture would provide some information.

there is enough room for two dual slot cards like the DCII on the maximus, there is two slots between the first and second x16 slots. it will be fine with a slot for space.

edit: btw, the back fan (top?) would be for exhaust and for obvious reasons wouldn't need a dust filter.


yeah i realized the back fan thing minutes after post. according to this: http://www.demcifilter.com/filters_performance.php#posi...
i should have intake everywhere but the back, and end up with a intake twice the CFM that the exhaust fan does.
but since the HAF has a lt of holes in the upper front of the case, this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h7xcOWgWEzc
tells me to make all fans intake, and have the air mainly exhaust from the front I/O ports. is this possible/safe? you dont have to watch the video, simply read the letter a manufacturer of the demciflex sent the poster.

that leaves me confused...first of all, on the example on demciflex site, what is the rear exhaust fans? there are 3, but only 1 fan on the hafx no? second of all, do i use all fans to intake for minimum dust intake, or use the rear end exclusively for exhaust air?

i want to have this computer last for many years, preferably 5-10, so dust filters is a no-brainer. its just so god-damn confusing
February 5, 2013 7:51:27 AM

Definitely go for a mechanical keyboard.. One of the best investments in a build you can make IMO.. just look at reviews for some, i use a razer black widow ultimate 2013, its pretty expensive but there is not much choice in mechanicals in New Zealand.. :D 
February 5, 2013 9:06:04 AM

hjones96 said:
Definitely go for a mechanical keyboard.. One of the best investments in a build you can make IMO.. just look at reviews for some, i use a razer black widow ultimate 2013, its pretty expensive but there is not much choice in mechanicals in New Zealand.. :D 


yeah, Mechanical ftw. but i´ve heard ill about these "gaming keyboards" that regular keyboards are just as good. since i play fps, some rts and rpg, i dont catch myself using a lot of macros. so that wont be needed. however fast respond time and slick design is priorities for me. any suggestions for a guy living in denmark? (europe)
Anonymous
a b B Homebuilt system
a b 4 Gaming
February 5, 2013 12:36:43 PM

i am looking around for a few articles that give explanations for setting up case fans for best cooling.

general rule of thumb: if its the lower half of the case, intake of cooler air and exhaust for the upper half to exhaust the heat. (heat rises but i think you know that ;)  )

there are two school of thoughts: having a positive air pressure (more intake fans) or having negative air pressure (more exhaust fans) in the case.

positive air pressure helps to keep the dust out that may enter through the cracks but it may cause a pocket of heat in the upper part of the case; air flow and "swirl around" in a corner. negative air pressure immediately removes any heat but can cause dust to get in though any cracks.

personally i prefer getting the heat out - but folks have their preferences . . here is a suggested configuration from CM HAF X RC-942-KKN1 :


if i haven't wandered too far off. .the bottom, front and side would get filters but not the top or back.
February 5, 2013 1:17:44 PM

you definitely have a good point when it comes to heat staying inside the case. but the point was to have so much air coming in that it is forced to exit through the cracks and openings, meaning no dust incoming. if i do as your drawing say and make the two top fans exhaust, the dust will definitely come in through the cracks, making this whole filtering pointless. so when you say heat, how much is this? (celsius please). since its a HAF i doubt the gear is very hot in the first place, and since im not gonna over clock for years (maybe just a tad) i think it´ll stay below 80C. at least. or am i completely wrong?

new idea struck me actually: so, the cracks are all in the front right? what if i then made the front fan the only exhaust one? that would lead the air inside the case in the direction of the cracks!! are you kidding me, its genius :)  again, am i a complete moron? lol, its all very hard to calculate since i dont own this monster yet, and therefor cant say what the temps/RPM etc. are atm.

its just the way i see it, is that i´d rather have a little more heat always, and a very clean inside, than i´d clean this out every other week with compressed air, putting my components at risk even futher. and if i dont clean it, it´ll wear up much faster. this is just my logic, and i very much respect opposing arguments.

so, to sum things up, is my idea genius?
and is this filtering the last thing i need for my build or are there other usefull stuff to make it better? (excluding water cooling, since im not that hardcore)

thanks :) 
Anonymous
a b B Homebuilt system
a b 4 Gaming
February 5, 2013 1:59:56 PM

:lol: 

i wouldn't recommend the front fans to be exhaust; it would end up pulling cooler air out. if you are very concerned about the front crack along the bezel seam; you may find some black PVC tape that doesn't take away from the aesthetics to work just fine. (just a thought).

when it comes down to it, a little bit of dust isn't going to hurt anything. and it's usually a good idea to every so often open up the case and blow it out with a can of compressed air. the biggest offender of debris getting in a case is having a cat; the hair gets everywhere and can clump up.
February 5, 2013 3:18:09 PM

Anonymous said:
:lol: 

i wouldn't recommend the front fans to be exhaust; it would end up pulling cooler air out. if you are very concerned about the front crack along the bezel seam; you may find some black PVC tape that doesn't take away from the aesthetics to work just fine. (just a thought).

when it comes down to it, a little bit of dust isn't going to hurt anything. and it's usually a good idea to every so often open up the case and blow it out with a can of compressed air. the biggest offender of debris getting in a case is having a cat; the hair gets everywhere and can clump up.


ouch,,,we have a bunch of cats where i live, and they drop hair as often as i blink (pretty often). this is why i need a positive pressure in my case.

so how bout this:

option 1-
intake: Front, Top, Side
Exhaust: Rear, Bottom

option 2-
Intake: Front,Top,Side,Bottom
Exhaust: Rear

option 3-
Intake: Front,Rear,Side,Bottom
Exhaust: Top

option 4-
Intake: Front,Top,Bottom,Rear
Exhaust: Side

option 5-
Intake: Front,Top,Side
Exhaust: Bottom,Rear

option 6- (not a fan of this one)
Intake: Front,Top,Bottom
Exhaust: Rear,Side

these are the solutions i can think of that MIGHT cause a possitive pressure. which one of them is best you think and why? if we keep in mind im using air cooling...

and if none of these are optimal, i prolly will go for the easy option 7-
Intake: Front,Bottom,Side
Exhaust: Top,Rear
and then tape the front...

it´s certainly hard keeping a pc clean considering i dont even own it yet hehe
February 5, 2013 3:20:32 PM

also, how often would you recommend manually cleaning my pc?
if you keep in mind that i have goddamn cat-hair in the air always, and opening it might just make things worse. as for right now, i live in a very clean home, but will get back to my parents whom own the cats after i´ve built the rig.
Anonymous
a b B Homebuilt system
a b 4 Gaming
February 5, 2013 3:27:24 PM

i'd look at option 7:
Intake: Front,Bottom,Side
Exhaust: Top,Rear
and then tape the front...

though how many fans are you getting? if there is just three; then fans on front, side (or bottom) for intake and one on the back rear. ofcourse non of this needs to be etched in stone; you can always change the configuration based on temps, stuff getting in . . .
how often you clean it would be how much time the cats like to spend hanging out next to the cases . . :lol: 

February 5, 2013 3:38:11 PM

:lol:  , i guess
im getting them all=2 on top, 1 front, 1 side, 1 bottom, 1 rear.
how many comes with the box?

also, from which website (non-US) can i get the Demciflex HAF X set? cant figure it out :( 

i also am happiest with option 7 definitely. would this work?:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Insulation-Tape-Electrical-19mm...

and will the tape become a problem since option 7 is probably a negative pressure solution?
im thinking about blocked intake/exhaust. i may just be forced to adjust the fan speed a bit and thats it :) 
February 5, 2013 3:44:04 PM

and in which direction will my zalman cnps12x blow? prefferably exhausting towards rear, or even better intaking from front direction. that would make top fans intakes and then it would be perfect...right?...
Anonymous
a b B Homebuilt system
a b 4 Gaming
February 5, 2013 3:50:32 PM

oooohhhhhhh!

i completely forgot you can adjust the fan speed with ASUS Fan Xpert 2. you'll be able to maintain a positive pressure by increasing the speed of the intake (lower part of case) and lowering the speed of the exhaust (upper part of the case).

yes that tape was exactly what i was thinking about. i am sure demciflex is available somewhere other than the US, did you send them an email asking?
edit: yes, horizontal towards the back with the cpu cooler . .what happen to the d-14?
February 5, 2013 4:19:50 PM

Anonymous said:
oooohhhhhhh!

i completely forgot you can adjust the fan speed with ASUS Fan Xpert 2. you'll be able to maintain a positive pressure by increasing the speed of the intake (lower part of case) and lowering the speed of the exhaust (upper part of the case).

yes that tape was exactly what i was thinking about. i am sure demciflex is available somewhere other than the US, did you send them an email asking?
edit: yes, horizontal towards the back with the cpu cooler . .what happen to the d-14?


i dont know man, i just dont like the d-14. its bigger than my head and uglier too.. :lol: 
lol, but i think the zalman should be able to do the job aye? asus fan expert? from the motherboard? which is the asus maximus v formula now hehe.
will it be able to control case fans too? that would be awesome. then i wouldnt need the tape, and i would only need to heavyclean out my pc prolly each 4-6 months or so. which especially is a pro in my case since HAF also stands for heavy as ***...

and yes, i sent an email :) 

does the cpu cooler take in air or remove hot air?
February 5, 2013 4:28:19 PM

http://www.overclock.net/t/1268730/cooler-master-haf-x-...

if you scroll down, you´ll see a guy put a demciflex on his dvd drive etc, making positive pressure unnecessary :D :D  that means i can have optimal cooling and dust free pc at same time...awesome! and i found some websites selling demciflex, including the one i love the most, amazon.co.uk :D :D  the only one they dont have though, is the bottom one (kinda zigzaggy, custom made for hafx) which sux. but ive heard they have a european base, ill try finding it hehe

EDIT: i found a set on over clockers.net (the UK site) which i can buy the set from for £71
including shipping and everything- http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CM...

what is that thin long one for though? the front cracks?
Anonymous
a b B Homebuilt system
a b 4 Gaming
February 5, 2013 6:18:51 PM

if you care to, register on the forum and ask on the thread. if you get no reply in a few days you could PM the starter.
February 5, 2013 8:31:20 PM

Hey Mike i live in Denmark aswell, why do you order the things through Amazon.co.uk? Go to edbpriser.dk and search for your parts, then it'll find the cheapest retailer. The prices are pretty much the same as Amazon and you wont have to pay and wait for it to be delivered.
Also get a card from the 79xx series, with the new drivers they kick ass against nVidia
February 5, 2013 8:34:06 PM

And would it be logical if the cpu cooler took in hot air?? Ofcourse not, the cpu "cooler > heatsink" Removes the heat from the CPU out in the case, where your airflow will get the hot air out:) 
!