Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (More info?)
I just posted this on rec.digital, but this is probably a more
appropriate place for it.
Hello,
Let me start off by saying I'm very new to photography. I bought the
20d to take to Europe in hopes of getting some large prints made. It's
my first D-SLR. Ever since I bought this camera I've had trouble
getting photos to come out well. I don't think I've really ever gotten
a photo in a 'mode' setting to come out clear. I always have soft
edges and overexposure. I tend to shoot mainly in manual mode, but
sometimes still have problems. My biggest issue is getting focused
clear images. If I'm just taking photos of friends around town, I
typically set the camera around 1/100th (in the time-priority mode) of
a second to keep from blurring the shot with my unstead hands.
Sometimes this works, sometimes it doesn't. Recently I went to a
wedding and did this same thing, and almost every photo I took came out
blurry. Now I have taken some crisp shots, but they are almost always
from far away on nice sunny days. I like to go hiking and take the
camera, but the dark woods don't always make the greatest shots.
Here are two photos I took this morning on my couch. The data from the
shots follows. The first shot was in AE mode set. The second was in
fully automatic. Notice how soft the edges are on the fully automatic
shot. This is what keeps happening every time I take a photo. Does
anyone know what is going on, or care to suggest how to resolve this?
wedding photo
------------------------------
File Name
IMG_2104.CR2
Camera Model
Canon EOS 20D
Shooting Date/Time
9/17/2005 3:27:06 PM
Shooting Mode
Manual Exposure
Tv( Shutter Speed )
1/80
Av( Aperture Value )
16.0
Metering Mode
Evaluative Metering
ISO Speed
400
Lens
28.0 - 105.0 mm
Focal Length
35.0 mm
Image Size
3504x2336
Image Quality
RAW
Flash
Off
White Balance Mode
Auto
AF Mode
One-Shot AF
Parameters Settings
Contrast Mid. High
Sharpness Mid. High
Color saturation Mid. High
Color tone 0
Color Space
sRGB
Noise Reduction
Off
File Size
7912 KB
manual
---------------------------------------
File Name
IMG_2130.CR2
Camera Model
Canon EOS 20D
Shooting Date/Time
9/27/2005 1:35:42 PM
Shooting Mode
Shutter-Priority AE
Tv( Shutter Speed )
1/100
Av( Aperture Value )
4.0
Metering Mode
Evaluative Metering
Exposure Compensation
0
ISO Speed
800
Lens
28.0 - 105.0 mm
Focal Length
65.0 mm
Image Size
3504x2336
Image Quality
RAW
Flash
Off
White Balance Mode
Auto
AF Mode
Manual Focus
Parameters Settings
Contrast Mid. High
Sharpness Mid. High
Color saturation Mid. High
Color tone 0
Color Space
sRGB
Noise Reduction
Off
File Size
7428 KB
fully automatic
--------------------------------------
File Name
IMG_2132.JPG
Camera Model
Canon EOS 20D
Shooting Date/Time
9/27/2005 1:37:55 PM
Shooting Mode
Auto
Tv( Shutter Speed )
1/60
Av( Aperture Value )
4.0
Metering Mode
Evaluative Metering
Exposure Compensation
0
ISO Speed
400
Lens
28.0 - 105.0 mm
Focal Length
82.0 mm
Image Size
2544x1696
Image Quality
Fine
Flash
On
Flash Type
Built-In Flash
Flash Exposure Compensation
0
Red-eye Reduction
Off
Shutter curtain sync
1st-curtain sync
White Balance Mode
Auto
AF Mode
AI Focus AF
Parameters Settings
Contrast Mid. High
Sharpness Mid. High
Color saturation Mid. High
Color tone 0
Color Space
sRGB
Noise Reduction
Off
File Size
1641 KB
Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (More info?)
In article <1127852348.786245.139830@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com>,
<Todd.J.Olson@gmail.com> wrote:
> Let me start off by saying I'm very new to photography. I bought the
> 20d to take to Europe in hopes of getting some large prints made. It's
> my first D-SLR. Ever since I bought this camera I've had trouble
> getting photos to come out well. I don't think I've really ever gotten
> a photo in a 'mode' setting to come out clear. I always have soft
> edges and overexposure. I tend to shoot mainly in manual mode, but
> sometimes still have problems. My biggest issue is getting focused
> clear images. If I'm just taking photos of friends around town, I
> typically set the camera around 1/100th (in the time-priority mode) of
> a second to keep from blurring the shot with my unstead hands.
> Sometimes this works, sometimes it doesn't. Recently I went to a
> wedding and did this same thing, and almost every photo I took came out
> blurry. Now I have taken some crisp shots, but they are almost always
> from far away on nice sunny days. I like to go hiking and take the
> camera, but the dark woods don't always make the greatest shots.
Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (More info?)
<Todd.J.Olson@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1127852348.786245.139830@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>I just posted this on rec.digital, but this is probably a more
> appropriate place for it.
>
> Hello,
>
> Let me start off by saying I'm very new to photography. I bought the
> 20d to take to Europe in hopes of getting some large prints made. It's
> my first D-SLR. Ever since I bought this camera I've had trouble
> getting photos to come out well. I don't think I've really ever gotten
> a photo in a 'mode' setting to come out clear. I always have soft
> edges and overexposure. I tend to shoot mainly in manual mode, but
> sometimes still have problems. My biggest issue is getting focused
> clear images. If I'm just taking photos of friends around town, I
> typically set the camera around 1/100th (in the time-priority mode) of
> a second to keep from blurring the shot with my unstead hands.
> Sometimes this works, sometimes it doesn't. Recently I went to a
> wedding and did this same thing, and almost every photo I took came out
> blurry. Now I have taken some crisp shots, but they are almost always
> from far away on nice sunny days. I like to go hiking and take the
> camera, but the dark woods don't always make the greatest shots.
>
> Here are two photos I took this morning on my couch. The data from the
> shots follows. The first shot was in AE mode set. The second was in
> fully automatic. Notice how soft the edges are on the fully automatic
> shot. This is what keeps happening every time I take a photo. Does
> anyone know what is going on, or care to suggest how to resolve this?
>
> http://filebox.vt.edu/users/tolson/photos/IMG_2130.JPG (forgot to
> turn down ISO from last night, a little grainy)
>
> http://filebox.vt.edu/users/tolson/photos/IMG_2132.JPG >
> Here's a shot from the wedding that came terrible just to show you what
> I'm so confused about.
>
> http://filebox.vt.edu/users/tolson/photos/IMG_2104.JPG >
> Thanks for any insight, -Todd
>
> I'm using a canon 28-105, seen here: (not L-glass)
> http://consumer.usa.canon.com/ir/c [...] &fcateg... >
First, I'm not sure what the issues are, they seem to me to be consistent,
in the case of the notebook, with depth of field, the near corner is too
close to be in focus, the far corner, too far to be in focus, if you were
using a large aperture.
The wedding image, I dunno. I'm seeing subject movement, camera movement,
and general lack of sharpness. 1/80 sec is too slow for good capture of
moving subjects, and sometimes difficult to hand hold at that slow of a
speed, too.
That being said, we sold our 28-105 f3.5-4.5 because its weaknesses were
made obvious with the 20D in a way that it never was with film or my wife's
10D. If that is the lens you're using, it could be the issue. If you are
using the 28-105 f4.5-5.6, then that definitely is the problem, that lens
has a horrid reputation.
I have only looked at the wedding shot and this is what I see:
-The pattern on the waist on the brides dress is reasonably
in focus.
-The grooms head is moving forward causing slight motion blur.
-The brides hand and arm are moving causing motion blur.
-The brides maid is outside the DOF and therefore out of focus.
-The camera is moving in a rotary direction with an axis just below
the centre of the picture.
-The background is blurred partly due to DOF and partly due to
the camera movement.
What I don't understand is why the DOF is so small when the
lens is set to 35mm and F16. There's something odd there.
Perhaps diffraction is adding to the problems.
At 1/80th of a second shutter speed you need to really hold the
camera still. The direction of the camera movement suggests that
you may have pushed the shutter release instead of gently
squeezing it.
Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (More info?)
Hi Todd,
I hear were you're coming from - I used to suffer much the same fate. In
fact, I used to be the worlds worst photographer, but 6 months down the
track I reckon I'm only about 4th worst now - so things are getting better!
I can't speak with the experience of many around here, but what I've
discovered is that the issue I was having wasn't just 1 thing - it was a
combination of things.
First up, I took delivery of my first "L" series lens (a 24-70 F2.8L USM) -
the same day I put my kit lens for sale on an online auction site - I'll be
quite happy to never see it again. Many will say that you can take a good
shot with cheap glass - probably quite true, but I think the people who can
are better photographers than I'll ever be. If you're going to be blowing
things up then all the more reason to get some quality glass (I appreciate
that you weren't using the kit lens - but not "L" glass either).
Second up, I had a problem with Camera shake - I just didn't know it at the
time. I always thought I had pretty steady hands - but even with L series
glass on a borrowed 70-200 F2.8L USM (non IS) I had a significant problem
unless I was outside on a bright day, or on a tripod. I tried to follow the
Reciprocal shutter speed rule (ie at 200mm shoot no slower than 1/200th sec
etc - but even that just didn't cut the mustad. Until I get my IS lens I'm
going to stick to cranking up the ISO so that I'm hand holding somewhere
above 1/500th with the 70-200 lens (where I'm getting better results). If I
were to get a good shot inside (at, say, a wedding) hand held, it would
probably just be good luck - especially if they were moving).
Third up (pure speculation here) - I'm hoping that an IS lens is going to
make a big difference. It just occured to me that when Canon talk about it
making up to 3 stops of difference, that's actually an EIGHT fold difference
(each stop is a doubling or halving) - so 1/200 drops to 1/25 - hopefully
opening up many more F-Stop / ISO / Shutter speed options.
Forth, nearly all images benefit from sharpening in photoshop.
For me it was summed up nicly the other day when I took some photos of my
daughters - previous attempts were only ever "OK" at best - but with some
borrowed "L" glass - camera mounted on a tripod - good lighting - and a good
sharpen in photoshop I ended up with some 10 * 15" prints that were sharp as
a tack (I was actually quite impressed with myself).
These days I'm getting more into longer lenses for bird photography. I
purchased some books by Arther Miller that were suggested by someone here -
and guess what - he recommends a $700 Gitzo tripod - a $565 Wimberley head -
L series Glass - IS when available - remote shutter releases - and
additionally, lots of good techniques. Looking back at where I was with very
little knowledge, and a few other factors working against me it really
wasn't a surprise that I was getting the poor results that I was. I'm
wondering if you're in the same situation?
Cheers,
CC
<Todd.J.Olson@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1127852348.786245.139830@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>I just posted this on rec.digital, but this is probably a more
> appropriate place for it.
>
> Hello,
>
> Let me start off by saying I'm very new to photography. I bought the
> 20d to take to Europe in hopes of getting some large prints made. It's
> my first D-SLR. Ever since I bought this camera I've had trouble
> getting photos to come out well. I don't think I've really ever gotten
> a photo in a 'mode' setting to come out clear. I always have soft
> edges and overexposure. I tend to shoot mainly in manual mode, but
> sometimes still have problems. My biggest issue is getting focused
> clear images. If I'm just taking photos of friends around town, I
> typically set the camera around 1/100th (in the time-priority mode) of
> a second to keep from blurring the shot with my unstead hands.
> Sometimes this works, sometimes it doesn't. Recently I went to a
> wedding and did this same thing, and almost every photo I took came out
> blurry. Now I have taken some crisp shots, but they are almost always
> from far away on nice sunny days. I like to go hiking and take the
> camera, but the dark woods don't always make the greatest shots.
>
> Here are two photos I took this morning on my couch. The data from the
> shots follows. The first shot was in AE mode set. The second was in
> fully automatic. Notice how soft the edges are on the fully automatic
> shot. This is what keeps happening every time I take a photo. Does
> anyone know what is going on, or care to suggest how to resolve this?
>
> http://filebox.vt.edu/users/tolson/photos/IMG_2130.JPG (forgot to
> turn down ISO from last night, a little grainy)
>
> http://filebox.vt.edu/users/tolson/photos/IMG_2132.JPG >
> Here's a shot from the wedding that came terrible just to show you what
> I'm so confused about.
>
> http://filebox.vt.edu/users/tolson/photos/IMG_2104.JPG >
> Thanks for any insight, -Todd
>
> I'm using a canon 28-105, seen here: (not L-glass)
> http://consumer.usa.canon.com/ir/c [...] &fcateg... >
> wedding photo
> ------------------------------
> File Name
> IMG_2104.CR2
> Camera Model
> Canon EOS 20D
> Shooting Date/Time
> 9/17/2005 3:27:06 PM
> Shooting Mode
> Manual Exposure
> Tv( Shutter Speed )
> 1/80
> Av( Aperture Value )
> 16.0
> Metering Mode
> Evaluative Metering
> ISO Speed
> 400
> Lens
> 28.0 - 105.0 mm
> Focal Length
> 35.0 mm
> Image Size
> 3504x2336
> Image Quality
> RAW
> Flash
> Off
> White Balance Mode
> Auto
> AF Mode
> One-Shot AF
> Parameters Settings
> Contrast Mid. High
> Sharpness Mid. High
> Color saturation Mid. High
> Color tone 0
> Color Space
> sRGB
> Noise Reduction
> Off
> File Size
> 7912 KB
>
> manual
> ---------------------------------------
> File Name
> IMG_2130.CR2
> Camera Model
> Canon EOS 20D
> Shooting Date/Time
> 9/27/2005 1:35:42 PM
> Shooting Mode
> Shutter-Priority AE
> Tv( Shutter Speed )
> 1/100
> Av( Aperture Value )
> 4.0
> Metering Mode
> Evaluative Metering
> Exposure Compensation
> 0
> ISO Speed
> 800
> Lens
> 28.0 - 105.0 mm
> Focal Length
> 65.0 mm
> Image Size
> 3504x2336
> Image Quality
> RAW
> Flash
> Off
> White Balance Mode
> Auto
> AF Mode
> Manual Focus
> Parameters Settings
> Contrast Mid. High
> Sharpness Mid. High
> Color saturation Mid. High
> Color tone 0
> Color Space
> sRGB
> Noise Reduction
> Off
> File Size
> 7428 KB
>
> fully automatic
> --------------------------------------
> File Name
> IMG_2132.JPG
> Camera Model
> Canon EOS 20D
> Shooting Date/Time
> 9/27/2005 1:37:55 PM
> Shooting Mode
> Auto
> Tv( Shutter Speed )
> 1/60
> Av( Aperture Value )
> 4.0
> Metering Mode
> Evaluative Metering
> Exposure Compensation
> 0
> ISO Speed
> 400
> Lens
> 28.0 - 105.0 mm
> Focal Length
> 82.0 mm
> Image Size
> 2544x1696
> Image Quality
> Fine
> Flash
> On
> Flash Type
> Built-In Flash
> Flash Exposure Compensation
> 0
> Red-eye Reduction
> Off
> Shutter curtain sync
> 1st-curtain sync
> White Balance Mode
> Auto
> AF Mode
> AI Focus AF
> Parameters Settings
> Contrast Mid. High
> Sharpness Mid. High
> Color saturation Mid. High
> Color tone 0
> Color Space
> sRGB
> Noise Reduction
> Off
> File Size
> 1641 KB
>
Archived from groups: rec.photo.digital.slr-systems (More info?)
Cockpit Colin wrote:
[]
> Third up (pure speculation here) - I'm hoping that an IS lens is
> going to make a big difference. It just occured to me that when Canon
> talk about it making up to 3 stops of difference, that's actually an
> EIGHT fold difference (each stop is a doubling or halving) - so 1/200
> drops to 1/25 - hopefully opening up many more F-Stop / ISO / Shutter
> speed options.
I can't comment on the Canon lens, but with the Panasonic FZ5 and its
Leica image-stabilised lens, a factor of around ten seems to be achieved -
it makes tremendous difference. With your 200mm lens (300mm equivalent),
you could perhaps be looking at 1/30s - of course it's better to spread
the gain between aperture and shutter speed as the taking conditions
dictate.
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